clipped

Now the facts are these. Sodium or salt does not CAUSE hypertension, it
merely aggravates the condition. About six percent of the population has
hypertension and about half of those have the kind that doesn't take kindly
to salt.

Not so....sodium/salt causes fluid retention, which alone can cause
hypertension and congestive heart failure. There are other causes for
hypertension, but fluid retention would aggravate all forms, whatever
the cause.

Bottom line: 97% of the population can use as much salt as they want with NO
adverse health problems. Several studies have been done where test subjects
ingested up to 25 GRAMS of salt per day for extended periods with no adverse
effects. Anyone who's ever eaten in a military mess hall can verify this.

Folks who have even the risk factors for hypertension, without evident
disease, should limit their salt. A stroke or heart attack can be the
first "proof" of hypertension, and that can be too late.

My hubby was on meds for hypertension for about 10 years, which kept it
very well controlled.....so well that he decided to quit his meds
because he felt so good. I was away for a wedding, and when I returned,
he wasn't feeling well. Next morning he was in distress. After being
stabilized in hospital, the docs pumped a quart of fluid out of his
chest cavity. An extra quart of "breathing room" makes a hell of a
difference. His idiot decision led to discovery of 90% blockage of a
coronary artery, just in time to prevent heart attack.

There have been steady and frightening increases in juvenile obesity
and, with it, high blood cholesterol levels. These are very young
people headed for heart disease and they should not be taking in the
amounts of salt that you suggest are "ok"....kidney disease and diabetes
follow, another reason to limit salt.

On Thu 16 Jul 2009 04:46:33p, HeyBub told us...

Pete C. wrote:

In general the mid-upper priced units will be better built, fit,
finish and durability than the lowest end units. The highest prices
units usually only differ from the upper middle priced units in the
foofy brand name badge on them.


You make a good point.

I wonder if one could buy, say, a Kenmore and slap a SubZero or
KitchenAid
or LG medallion on it.

Who would know?




Whoever slapped it on there.

--
Wayne Boatwright
------------------------------------------------------------------------
We are indeed much more than what we eat, but what we eat can
nevertheless help us to be much more than what we are. Adelle Davis

"Pete C." wrote:

In general the mid-upper priced units will be better built, fit,
finish and durability than the lowest end units. The highest
prices units usually only differ from the upper middle priced
units in the foofy brand name badge on them.

The above is an absolutely useless statement. It contains nothing that
can actually guide someone looking at *anything* on the showroom floor.

Once you get past the style selection, you look for operating
cost (energy star rating)

Almost all fridges are energy star rated. The *difference* in
electricity usage over the course of a year between two models with
identical interior volume won't exceed $10 or $20.

durability of the construction, parts availability, serviceability

All useless because they are either hidden or unknowable without a
tremendous amount of research.

warranty

Again, very little difference between makes and models.

Some Guy wrote:

"Pete C." wrote:

In general the mid-upper priced units will be better built, fit,
finish and durability than the lowest end units. The highest
prices units usually only differ from the upper middle priced
units in the foofy brand name badge on them.

The above is an absolutely useless statement. It contains nothing that
can actually guide someone looking at *anything* on the showroom floor.

Once you get past the style selection, you look for operating
cost (energy star rating)

Almost all fridges are energy star rated. The *difference* in
electricity usage over the course of a year between two models with
identical interior volume won't exceed $10 or $20.

durability of the construction, parts availability, serviceability

All useless because they are either hidden or unknowable without a
tremendous amount of research.

warranty

Again, very little difference between makes and models.

Apparently you lack the technical knowledgeable to be able to evaluate
the features I noted, fortunately they have a band-aid for this failing,
it's called Consumer Reports and they will happily tell you what brand
and model you should buy and you can sleep well knowing you have
followed the advice of a magazine that is as clueless as you are.

HeyBub wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 07:59:33 -0500, HeyBub
wrote:

Water-softener lines should NOT run to the ice-maker. Softened water
is an ice-maker killer. De-ionized is okay.
I live where the city water is nasty canal water and I use a line from
the undersink RO purifier for ice. Works great. Neighbor has a whole
house water softener as do two of my relatives. Obviously their ice
makers work just fine. Do you have some confused notion that water
softeners add salt to the water output? They don't. The salt is only
used to recharge the purification rods/beads.

I was wrong about soft-water / ice-maker. Soft water does make better ice
and is easier on the ice-maker.

I'm not confused about salt, although many others are. People on a low-salt
diet are really supposed to be on a low-SODIUM diet. Water softeners
exchange Sodium ions for Magnesium (and other) ions, so people on a low or
salt-free diet are really getting MORE Sodium than without using a softener.

Now the facts are these. Sodium or salt does not CAUSE hypertension, it
merely aggravates the condition. About six percent of the population has
hypertension and about half of those have the kind that doesn't take kindly
to salt.

Bottom line: 97% of the population can use as much salt as they want with NO
adverse health problems. Several studies have been done where test subjects
ingested up to 25 GRAMS of salt per day for extended periods with no adverse
effects. Anyone who's ever eaten in a military mess hall can verify this.


Ignoring any questions about salts of whatever kind- soft-water ice
tastes nasty, especially if it sits in the freezer awhile in a
self-defrost unit. The actual h20 evaporates off, and the trace element
load increases. I almost never use ice because it tastes so bad, and the
cubes are usually half-evaporated. It leaves a nasty residue in bin and
chute, and the chilled water tube is almost plugged. On the other hand,
I love the in-door water and ice at my sister's place, with no
softener. If I ever get around to getting a plumber in here to clean up
the punch list of piddly projects, one of them will be replacing ice
maker saddle tap in basement with a coupling, and running a new feed off
a tee attached to an accessible unsoftened cold line near the feed from
the well, with a shutoff valve to make the inline filter painless to change.

One of these days....

--
aem sends...

Full-Quoter "Pete C." wrote:

Apparently you lack the technical knowledgeable to be able to
evaluate the features I noted,

Only the designers of the appliances in question have that knowledge.
Anyone else must seek out that information, and in many cases it simply
is not available to those outside the company that makes it.

fortunately they have a band-aid for this failing,
it's called Consumer Reports

So what are you saying - that Consumer reports is an accurate and
comprehensive source for detailed product information?

and they will happily tell you what brand and model you should buy

So you are an advocate and praise CR?

and you can sleep well knowing you have followed the advice
of a magazine that is as clueless as you are.

Is there any particular reason you chose to bring CR into this
discussion?

If you want to debate or counter the statements I made in my previous
post, then bringing CR into it just to tear them down makes no sense.
Just as your previous post largely contained no sense.

Some Guy wrote:

Full-Quoter "Pete C." wrote:

Apparently you lack the technical knowledgeable to be able to
evaluate the features I noted,

Only the designers of the appliances in question have that knowledge.
Anyone else must seek out that information, and in many cases it simply
is not available to those outside the company that makes it.

I have the knowledge to evaluate those items as do many others. I
understand refrigeration, construction methods and electronic controls.
I can readily look online to check parts availability from various
suppliers and can find reports of warranty issues.


fortunately they have a band-aid for this failing,
it's called Consumer Reports

So what are you saying - that Consumer reports is an accurate and
comprehensive source for detailed product information?

No, I'm saying that Consumer Reports provides recommendations that can
be used by those who lack the knowledge to do their own evaluations. I
disagree with much of CR's evaluations WRT features and benefits,
however they are usually at least adequate to steer someone with no
knowledge away from problematic models.


and they will happily tell you what brand and model you should buy

So you are an advocate and praise CR?

No, see above. CR does serve a purpose for those who are not capable of
shopping and evaluating on their own.


and you can sleep well knowing you have followed the advice
of a magazine that is as clueless as you are.

Is there any particular reason you chose to bring CR into this
discussion?

Yes, since you have indicated you are not capable of shopping and
evaluating appliances on your own, they are a source of recommendations
you can use to at least avoid the worst models.


If you want to debate or counter the statements I made in my previous
post, then bringing CR into it just to tear them down makes no sense.
Just as your previous post largely contained no sense.

My post contained very sensible advice for use by intelligent persons,
since you are apparently not very intelligent, you did not understand it
and chose to try to mock that which you do not understand.

"Abby Brown" wrote in
:

What to look for in a refrigerator?

Beer!

On Jul 14, 3:54*pm, "Abby Brown" wrote:
Hi,

We are about to replace our 28 year old Kenmore with a new refrigerator. *An
ice maker is a given. *I've looked at similar looking refrigerators that
range from $800 to $2500. *I would assume the more expensive units are
better built but otherwise don't have a clue what I am paying for.

Thanks,
Gary

In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open. I have rarely had
anything ever go wrong with a fridge, but many times I wind up with
cracked plastic drawer sliders and shelf supports after the first year
or so. It is a bitch fixing these as you have to replace them
completely.

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store
and test them there.

I'm serious, strong internal plastic sliders and shelf cleats is about
all I bother to look for, as I am living with a fridge (Maytag) today
that has 2 cracked drawer sliders that no longer can hold the drawers
at all (those drawers now sit on the shelf). All the other aspects
seems to be too close to call between manufacturers.

"windcrest" wrote in message
...
On Jul 14, 3:54 pm, "Abby Brown" wrote:
Hi,

We are about to replace our 28 year old Kenmore with a new
refrigerator. An
ice maker is a given. I've looked at similar looking refrigerators
that
range from $800 to $2500. I would assume the more expensive units
are
better built but otherwise don't have a clue what I am paying for.

Thanks,
Gary

In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open. I have rarely had
anything ever go wrong with a fridge, but many times I wind up with
cracked plastic drawer sliders and shelf supports after the first year
or so. It is a bitch fixing these as you have to replace them
completely.

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store
and test them there.

I'm serious, strong internal plastic sliders and shelf cleats is about
all I bother to look for, as I am living with a fridge (Maytag) today
that has 2 cracked drawer sliders that no longer can hold the drawers
at all (those drawers now sit on the shelf). All the other aspects
seems to be too close to call between manufacturers.

I think you will find almost all of them are made by the same company,
WS Woods and just put various brands on them.

On Jul 17, 4:18*pm, "JC" wrote:
"windcrest" wrote in message

...
On Jul 14, 3:54 pm, "Abby Brown" wrote:

Hi,

We are about to replace our 28 year old Kenmore with a new
refrigerator. An
ice maker is a given. I've looked at similar looking refrigerators
that
range from $800 to $2500. I would assume the more expensive units
are
better built but otherwise don't have a clue what I am paying for.

Thanks,
Gary

In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). *If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open. *I have rarely had
anything ever go wrong with a fridge, but many times I wind up with
cracked plastic drawer sliders and shelf supports after the first year
or so. *It is a bitch fixing these as you have to replace them
completely.

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store
and test them there.

I'm serious, strong internal plastic sliders and shelf cleats is about
all I bother to look for, as I am living with a fridge (Maytag) today
that has 2 cracked drawer sliders that no longer can hold the drawers
at all (those drawers now sit on the shelf). *All the other aspects
seems to be too close to call between manufacturers.

I think you will find almost all of them are made by the same company,
WS Woods and just put various brands on them.

You mean WC Wood? (http://www.wcwood.com/) They make the interiors on
most brands?

windcrest wrote:

In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight).

What an insane test.

Sure, you might have 150 lbs of stuff in your fridge - but not all on
one shelf.

If you press down with your hands on one shelf and put half your body
weight on it, it will break and the store will nail your ass for the
repair bill.

"Pete C." wrote:

Apparently you lack the technical knowledgeable to be able to
evaluate the features I noted,

Only the designers of the appliances in question have that
knowledge. Anyone else must seek out that information, and
in many cases it simply is not available to those outside
the company that makes it.

I have the knowledge to evaluate those items as do many others.

Evaluating information or data is one thing.

Getting your hands on that information or data is another.

I understand refrigeration, construction methods and electronic
controls.

And I could show you an exploded view of two fridges. What would you do
with that information?

Where will you go to find out what gauge metal is used for what part of
the fridge?

How will you find out which east-asian plant produced what PC board in
which fridge?

By the time any really relavent information is available to compare any
given consumer product, that product will most likely no longer be
available on store shelves - it will be replaced with the next model.

That is true of TV's, cameras, appliances, etc. The time-cycle between
products is being reduced to counter consumer awareness and reduce the
relevence and usefullness of on-line reviews.

Some Guy wrote:

"Pete C." wrote:

Apparently you lack the technical knowledgeable to be able to
evaluate the features I noted,

Only the designers of the appliances in question have that
knowledge. Anyone else must seek out that information, and
in many cases it simply is not available to those outside
the company that makes it.

I have the knowledge to evaluate those items as do many others.

Evaluating information or data is one thing.

Getting your hands on that information or data is another.

I guess I'm just better at locating that data.


I understand refrigeration, construction methods and electronic
controls.

And I could show you an exploded view of two fridges. What would you do
with that information?

Being quite familiar with most everything mechanical, I can readily
compare the overall design, location of the condenser coils, fans,
dampers, etc. and get a good feel for the units. I can also look at the
parts lists and see how the parts availability is, i.e. what parts are
available separately vs. only in a unit, as well as the parts cost both
from the manufacturers web site as well as 3rd party parts distributors.


Where will you go to find out what gauge metal is used for what part of
the fridge?

My 5 minute inspection of each model that has made my final cut based on
other factors will confirm the materials and overall soundness of the
construction.


How will you find out which east-asian plant produced what PC board in
which fridge?

It doesn't matter one bit. The parts are all standard components, and
I've not seen low quality PCBs in quite a few years.


By the time any really relavent information is available to compare any
given consumer product, that product will most likely no longer be
available on store shelves - it will be replaced with the next model.

If the product is available for purchase in the store, all the relevant
information is also available.


That is true of TV's, cameras, appliances, etc. The time-cycle between
products is being reduced to counter consumer awareness and reduce the
relevence and usefullness of on-line reviews.

Ah, you're one of those conspiracy theorists eh? Probably one of the 15%
on the CNN.com poll who think the moon landing was faked...

I'd want to avoid anything GE with a circuit board. My parts
house calls them "generally expensive". And the parts are
expensive. Or anything Amana, which is also electronic.

Me, I've been fond of Whirlpool, or Frigidaire.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:11:04 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 13:54:19 -0700, "Abby Brown"
wrote:

Hi,

We are about to replace our 28 year old Kenmore with a new refrigerator. An
ice maker is a given. I've looked at similar looking refrigerators that
range from $800 to $2500. I would assume the more expensive units are
better built but otherwise don't have a clue what I am paying for.

Thanks,
Gary

Try to get one in Harvest Gold. I have one and I really like it.

Some prefer Avocado.

That's good too.

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 21:26:58 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Red Green wrote:

Smitty Two wrote in
news
In article ,
mm wrote:

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 13:54:19 -0700, "Abby Brown"
wrote:

Hi,

We are about to replace our 28 year old Kenmore with a new
refrigerator. An ice maker is a given. I've looked at similar
looking refrigerators that range from $800 to $2500. I would assume
the more expensive units are better built but otherwise don't have a
clue what I am paying for.

Thanks,
Gary

Try to get one in Harvest Gold. I have one and I really like it.

Some prefer Avocado.

Did you and mm torment dorks in school together as kids or something?


Yes, but MM never outgrew tormenting. He keeps stacks of old lawnmowers
and plywood outside to torment his neighbors.

I don't do it to torment him. That's just a happy side effect.

I never tormented anyone actually and in grades 1 to 16, I never saw
anyone else do it either. I remember being in the fifth grade and
thinking, "I wonder what they mean by 'Children can be so cruel'"
because I had never seen any of it, to anyone.

He's trying to bring that
genuine Appalachian feel to his condominium complex.

Condominium, no!

Of course, they should go with the coppertone brown.

But a couple weeks ago I got an electric lawn mower and I think I'm
satisfied with it. So I'm going to start getting rid of 5 of my gas
lawnmowers. Probably freecycle if anyone wants them. If not I'll find
a mower shop and ask if he wants any of them. One up the road sells
used mowers all the time, about 30 or 40 a season. OTOH maybe he
fixed them when he had a customer and then the customer wouldn't pay.
I don't know if he wants more, even for free. I'll probably keep the
6th one.

In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open.

Right, go to a store, break the plastic drawers in several fridges, (trust
me, they re not built to carry 150 lbs)and then

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store and
test them there.

How often do they let you out of the place you re locked up in ?

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'd want to avoid anything GE with a circuit board. My parts
house calls them "generally expensive". And the parts are
expensive. Or anything Amana, which is also electronic.

I do my electronics repairs to component level, so in most cases I
wouldn't be buying a new board, I'd be buying $10 worth of parts from
Digi-Key.

A plastic motorized damper door broke on my GE fridge some years back,
the part was only available in a $160 assembly, so I spent 30 minutes
fabricating a replacement in my shop and it's worked perfectly ever
since.

Please condsider advertising your service on the net, and
post a link, here. There is a real need for your talents and
skills.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...


I do my electronics repairs to component level, so in most
cases I
wouldn't be buying a new board, I'd be buying $10 worth of
parts from
Digi-Key.

A plastic motorized damper door broke on my GE fridge some
years back,
the part was only available in a $160 assembly, so I spent
30 minutes
fabricating a replacement in my shop and it's worked
perfectly ever
since.

In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Please condsider advertising your service on the net, and
post a link, here. There is a real need for your talents and
skills.

No, there isn't. It's economically viable for someone to do their own
repairs, of the nature Pete described, but it isn't economically viable
to sell those services to others. I often spend several hours repairing
something that I could have replaced for $50. And I hardly think that's
unusual, particularly in a DIY forum.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Please condsider advertising your service on the net, and
post a link, here. There is a real need for your talents and
skills.

No, there isn't. It's economically viable for someone to do their own
repairs, of the nature Pete described, but it isn't economically viable
to sell those services to others. I often spend several hours repairing
something that I could have replaced for $50. And I hardly think that's
unusual, particularly in a DIY forum.

Yabut is this a DIY forum?

Many folks come here just looking for help or info.

Lou

Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Please condsider advertising your service on the net, and
post a link, here. There is a real need for your talents and
skills.

No, there isn't. It's economically viable for someone to do their own
repairs, of the nature Pete described, but it isn't economically viable
to sell those services to others. I often spend several hours repairing
something that I could have replaced for $50. And I hardly think that's
unusual, particularly in a DIY forum.

Chuckle. I resemble that remark. I often spend way too much time
repairing something I could easily afford to replace. Not having a shop
or much hands-on machining expertise, the range of stuff I can fix is
limited, but I do try. Trivial example- the other day, walking from the
car to the office at work, one end of the handle of my briefcase falls
off, due to a hinge pin coming up missing. After looking a few minutes,
I conclude it is hopeless, and carry the briefcase inside to my desk,
cussing all the while. Within half an hour, I manage to find an aluminum
binding post and a pair of lineman pliers, and manage to fabricate a
replacement that works perfectly. All this for a $5 garage sale
briefcase. (nobody sells hard-side briefcases any more.)

Of course, that night when I get home, the missing hinge pin is sitting
on the kitchen counter waiting for me. No Idea how it escaped, or how
the briefcase made it almost all the way to work before the handle came
loose.

--
aem sends...

On Jul 18, 12:52*am, "Rudy" wrote:
In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers

and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). *If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open. *

Right, go to a store, break the plastic drawers in several fridges, (trust
me, they re not built to carry 150 lbs)and then

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store and
test them there.

How often do they *let you out of the place you re locked up in ?

In 1964 my mother used to stand on the fridge drawer to reach the
cabinet above (she was only 4'11''). That drawer never broke because
everything about that old Admiral was steel.

I have 3 kids and a wife who did in the drawers on our fridge in only
one year. They are built like crap today, it is necessary to find one
that can take the stress. Take it from someone who has a Maytag with
2 broken drawers and a broken shelf and come to think of it a door
shelf that also broke.

They should easily take 100 lbs. if they are to survive a 25 lb turkey
and a few gallons of milk.

windcrest wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:52 am, "Rudy" wrote:
In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open.

Right, go to a store, break the plastic drawers in several fridges, (trust
me, they re not built to carry 150 lbs)and then

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store and
test them there.
How often do they let you out of the place you re locked up in ?

In 1964 my mother used to stand on the fridge drawer to reach the
cabinet above (she was only 4'11''). That drawer never broke because
everything about that old Admiral was steel.

I have 3 kids and a wife who did in the drawers on our fridge in only
one year. They are built like crap today, it is necessary to find one
that can take the stress. Take it from someone who has a Maytag with
2 broken drawers and a broken shelf and come to think of it a door
shelf that also broke.

They should easily take 100 lbs. if they are to survive a 25 lb turkey
and a few gallons of milk.

Isn't milk about 7 lbs per gallon?

On Jul 18, 8:54*pm, LouB wrote:
windcrest wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:52 am, "Rudy" wrote:
In the showroom apply about 100 to 150 lbs of weight to the drawers
and shelves (by using your muscles and body weight). *If the plastic
drawer sliders and shelf holders dont crack, then buy that fridge.
Apply this weight with the drawers slid open. *

Right, go to a store, break the plastic drawers in several fridges, (trust
me, they re not built to carry 150 lbs)and then

If the salesperson has a problem with this, then go to another store and
test them there.
How often do they *let you out of the place you re locked up in ?

In 1964 my mother used to stand on the fridge drawer to reach the
cabinet above (she was only 4'11''). *That drawer never broke because
everything about that old Admiral was steel.

I have 3 kids and a wife who did in the drawers on our fridge in only
one year. *They are built like crap today, it is necessary to find one
that can take the stress. *Take it from someone who has a Maytag with
2 broken drawers and a broken shelf and come to think of it a door
shelf that also broke.

They should easily take 100 lbs. if they are to survive a 25 lb turkey
and a few gallons of milk.

Isn't milk about 7 lbs per gallon?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When the turkey is "plopped" down the weight spikes up.

I would also add that the OP should bring a 100lb kid with him and ask
the kid to hang onto the freezer/fridge doors and use same as a
carnival ride. The doors should not go out of alignment after a kid
swings on it. This is in addition to the interior drawer/shelf
tests. Another good test is kicking the crisper drawers closed
instead of closing them by hand. My wife usually has a handful of
stuff and likes to kick the veggie drawers closed, this probably
contributed to their breakage. My contention is that a good quality
fridge should survive all this abuse, but most wont.

Water alone is about 8.33 pounds per galon, depending on
your altitude, and how far you are from the coast.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"LouB" wrote in message
...

Isn't milk about 7 lbs per gallon?

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Water alone is about 8.33 pounds per galon, depending on
your altitude, and how far you are from the coast.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"LouB" wrote in message
...

Isn't milk about 7 lbs per gallon?



Geez. I guess, just in case, you might want to have them roll one
outside so you can hit it a couple of times with your car. You know,
so if you're gonna keep it in the garage. G

JC wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Water alone is about 8.33 pounds per galon, depending on
your altitude, and how far you are from the coast.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"LouB" wrote in message
...

Isn't milk about 7 lbs per gallon?



Geez. I guess, just in case, you might want to have them roll one
outside so you can hit it a couple of times with your car. You know, so
if you're gonna keep it in the garage. G

All kidding aside, I DO wish the interiors on modern residential fridges
were built more sturdily. Fridge that came with this place is almost
tolerable- branded RCA, but not sure if it is a Whirlpool or not. Glass
shelves on metal standards hung from vertical rails in the back, and
door shelves are hung in a similar fashion, and also adjustable. Much
nicer than the typical blow-molded crap on a cheap fridge. Too bad it is
a SxS with the coils underneath- I'm scared to move it lest that 20 YO
copper ice maker line starts leaking. The glass shelves do make be a
little paranoid, though.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message

The glass shelves do make be a little paranoid, though.

--
aem sends...

Why? They've held up for 20 years so far. Mine are about that old also and
never had a problem.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"aemeijers" wrote in message

The glass shelves do make be a little paranoid, though.

--
aem sends...

Why? They've held up for 20 years so far. Mine are about that old also and
never had a problem.


I break anvils. When I work on engines, I'm not allowed to hold the
ratchet by the end, only by the part where the socket slips on. IOW, I
am a world-class klutz with lousy depth perception. I seldom put metal
pots or actual glass/china dishes in the fridge, but when I do, that
hard sound when pot means shelf always makes me cringe.

--
aem sends...

Geez. I guess, just in case, you might want to have them roll one
outside so you can hit it a couple of times with your car. You know, so
if you're gonna keep it in the garage. G

I' ve owned 2 GE's, a bottom freezer Sub-Zero and a bottom freezer Amana
(tagged KA) over the last 34 years and haven't managed to break any parts:
shelves, bins, racks, plastic trim ..nothing at all.

I guess I can attribute that to never having any 100# chimps dangling
themselves from the door or climbing into the bins

BEER.