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#1
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I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic
to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan |
#2
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lagman wrote:
I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan down the inside, sure. But if it was running down the *outside* of the pipe, you probably need new flashing. nate -- replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel |
#3
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lagman wrote:
I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan Why not? The pipe is typically square cut. It doesn't take much water to stain a ceiling. |
#4
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Nate Nagel wrote:
lagman wrote: I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan down the inside, sure. But if it was running down the *outside* of the pipe, you probably need new flashing. Shhh! If water runs down the inside of the vent pipe, rainwater will enter the sewer system. This, in turn, will cause extra expense for the sanitary sewer treatment plant. Say each house has four of these vents, each 2" in diameter, that's about a total of 12 square inches of rain capture. Now in my town, Houston, we get about 48" of rain per year, times 12 sq in of rain capture per house, that's 4 cubic feet of water that has to be unnecessarily treated per household per year. We have about 800,000 households, so the total waste becomes 3,200,000 cubic feet, or 24 million gallons! If this comes to the attention of our betters, municipal ordinances will spring forth mandating rain-dispersing caps on the plumbing vents. The good news is that these caps shouldn't cost more than $100 per house. |
#5
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lagman wrote:
I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan Hi, That sounds ??? that kind of pipe is joined male-female fashion allowing expansion, From bottom up F-M-F-M... Disconnected? More likely flashing problem? |
#6
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On Sat, 11 Jul 2009 17:18:07 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote: lagman wrote: I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan Hi, That sounds ??? that kind of pipe is joined male-female fashion allowing expansion, From bottom up F-M-F-M... Disconnected? More likely flashing problem? Huh? I guess the OP just imagined seeing the pipe disconnected and reconnecting it. Regarding his real question, any rain water that "leaks" down the vent just goes into the sewer (as another poster cleverly said). If you think about, even if it rains an inch, that's not much water compared to lets say, a toilet flush. |
#7
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"HeyBub" wrote in
m: Nate Nagel wrote: lagman wrote: I noticed a water bubble on my bedroom ceiling, so I went in the attic to investigate. It turns out a pipe that vents to the roof had become disconnected at the first joint, so I just re-connected it. I assume when it rained hard enough, rain water was leaking down the pipe and on to the ceiling (we just had a hard rain). But that got me thinking.. Even if the pipe didn't become disconnected, should rain water still be leaking down the pipe? Thanks, Dan down the inside, sure. But if it was running down the *outside* of the pipe, you probably need new flashing. Shhh! If water runs down the inside of the vent pipe, rainwater will enter the sewer system. This, in turn, will cause extra expense for the sanitary sewer treatment plant. Say each house has four of these vents, each 2" in diameter, that's about a total of 12 square inches of rain capture. Now in my town, Houston, we get about 48" of rain per year, times 12 sq in of rain capture per house, that's 4 cubic feet of water that has to be unnecessarily treated per household per year. We have about 800,000 households, so the total waste becomes 3,200,000 cubic feet, or 24 million gallons! If this comes to the attention of our betters, municipal ordinances will spring forth mandating rain-dispersing caps on the plumbing vents. The good news is that these caps shouldn't cost more than $100 per house. ....and a $50 required permit fee to install it. |
#8
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Red Green wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in .... The good news is that these caps shouldn't cost more than $100 per house. .... ...and a $50 required permit fee to install it. And a $250 liability rider for the high location work w/ an additional $250 if it's also steep-pitch... -- |
#9
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dpb wrote:
Red Green wrote: "HeyBub" wrote in ... The good news is that these caps shouldn't cost more than $100 per house. ... ...and a $50 required permit fee to install it. And a $250 liability rider for the high location work w/ an additional $250 if it's also steep-pitch... Yes, but fortunately I live in a right-to-scab state, so union scale is not required... |
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