One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. I thought I would be able to simply remove it and replace
it. It is a metal faucet in a plastic pipe, and I can't get it to
budge with an adjustable wrench. It is a metal faucet in a plastic
pipe. I'm afraid that if I put too much force on it, the pipe will
break. Is there a trick to getting this kind of faucet off the pipe?
--
Replace you know what by j to email

On Jul 6, 11:27*am, Jud McCranie
wrote:
One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *I thought I would be able to simply remove it and replace
it. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic pipe, and I can't get it to
budge with an adjustable wrench. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic
pipe. *I'm afraid that if I put too much force on it, the pipe will
break. *Is there a trick to getting this kind of faucet off the pipe?
--
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You may be forced into a major repair. Prepare in advance by rounding
up the parts needed (a quarter turn faucet is a must), plastic pipe
coupling, pipe nipple of appropriate length, threaded el, etc. Then
turn off the supply valve and start the repair. You might get lucky
and the valve will back out, but from here it the best guess is that
it was installed with a thread locking sealant because of leakage
often found in molded threads in plastic fittings. Plan ahead and good
luck.

Joe

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 09:46:42 -0700 (PDT), Joe wrote:

You may be forced into a major repair. Prepare in advance by rounding
up the parts needed (a quarter turn faucet is a must), plastic pipe
coupling, pipe nipple of appropriate length, threaded el, etc. Then
turn off the supply valve and start the repair. You might get lucky
and the valve will back out, but from here it the best guess is that
it was installed with a thread locking sealant because of leakage
often found in molded threads in plastic fittings. Plan ahead and good
luck.

If I can't simply take the faucet off and replace it, it is beyond
what I can do. I turned off the water, let it drain, and tried both
faucets and neither would budge at all at the force I applied, trying
to be careful not to break it. Since they wouldn't come off easily,
it sounds like it is more than I can do. I replaced one of these
outside, but it was metal on metal and came off easily.
--
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On Jul 6, 12:27*pm, Jud McCranie
wrote:
One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *I thought I would be able to simply remove it and replace
it. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic pipe, and I can't get it to
budge with an adjustable wrench. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic
pipe. *I'm afraid that if I put too much force on it, the pipe will
break. *Is there a trick to getting this kind of faucet off the pipe?
--
Replace you know what by j to email

I'm assuming that when you say "faucets to the hoses" you mean the
shutoffs.

If there is a shut-off prior to this one (I doubt it) turn it off. If
not, turn off the house main.

Once that's done "Go for it"! If something breaks, you'll know what
you need to buy to fix it.

I suggest you start this in the morning so you have all day to chase
down parts. Worst case is you might have to cap off the pipe leading
to the shutoff so you can turn the water back on.

Jud McCranie wrote:
One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. I thought I would be able to simply remove it and replace
it. It is a metal faucet in a plastic pipe, and I can't get it to
budge with an adjustable wrench. It is a metal faucet in a plastic
pipe. I'm afraid that if I put too much force on it, the pipe will
break. Is there a trick to getting this kind of faucet off the pipe?

I would tend to hire a plumber. If it's something like CPVC pipe you
could break it.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:02:39 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I'm assuming that when you say "faucets to the hoses" you mean the
shutoffs.

Well there is something very similar to a faucet for a garden hose in
the wall.

If there is a shut-off prior to this one (I doubt it) turn it off. If
not, turn off the house main.

I did shut off the main valve to the house.

Once that's done "Go for it"! If something breaks, you'll know what
you need to buy to fix it.

If something breaks, it will be beyond my ability to fix it.


Worst case is you might have to cap off the pipe leading
to the shutoff so you can turn the water back on.

That would be beyond what I'm able to do.
--
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On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 13:03:54 -0400, Frank
wrote:

I would tend to hire a plumber. If it's something like CPVC pipe you
could break it.

Yes, it is some sort of PVC pipe. If I break that trying to get the
thing off, there would be no way I can fix it, so I'd have to have the
whole house w/o water until I could get a plumber. So I don't want to
risk breaking it.
--
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On Jul 6, 11:27*am, Jud McCranie
wrote:
One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *I thought I would be able to simply remove it and replace
it. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic pipe, and I can't get it to
budge with an adjustable wrench. *It is a metal faucet in a plastic
pipe. *I'm afraid that if I put too much force on it, the pipe will
break. *Is there a trick to getting this kind of faucet off the pipe?
--
Replace you know what by j to email

Here is a radical thought; why not rebuild the leaking one? That used
to be a first response.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:26:10 -0700 (PDT), Eric in North TX
wrote:

Here is a radical thought; why not rebuild the leaking one? That used
to be a first response.

I thought it would be simpler to replace it, but that doesn't seem
easy. Repairing it may be more than I can do. I've repaired kitchen
and bathroom faucets, but they were designed to be repairable.

It is the hot water spigot that is leaking. When it is off it doesn't
leak. When it is on it leaks about three drops per second, out of the
shaft. For the last couple of days we've had it off and have been
washing cold/cold.
--
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Jud McCranie wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 13:03:54 -0400, Frank
wrote:

I would tend to hire a plumber. If it's something like CPVC pipe you
could break it.

Yes, it is some sort of PVC pipe. If I break that trying to get the
thing off, there would be no way I can fix it, so I'd have to have the
whole house w/o water until I could get a plumber. So I don't want to
risk breaking it.

Repair with new pipe and glue would probably be simpler than sweating
copper. Plumbing is not rocket science but I often say that the
difference between me and a plumber is that the plumber has a truck full
of parts while I'll be running back and forth to the store.

Neighbor's son told me he broke a section of his fathers CPVC pipe
crawling under sink hanging onto pipe. Said it was quite brittle.

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 13:32:42 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:26:10 -0700 (PDT), Eric in North TX
wrote:

Here is a radical thought; why not rebuild the leaking one? That used
to be a first response.

I thought it would be simpler to replace it, but that doesn't seem
easy. Repairing it may be more than I can do. I've repaired kitchen
and bathroom faucets, but they were designed to be repairable.

It is the hot water spigot that is leaking. When it is off it doesn't
leak. When it is on it leaks about three drops per second, out of the
shaft. For the last couple of days we've had it off and have been
washing cold/cold.

You can try tightening the nut at the stem. A 1/4 turn may stop the
leak. Turn it on and tighten 'till snug. YMMV.

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking.

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. It seems OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,
--
Replace you know what by j to email

On Jul 6, 1:10*pm, Jud McCranie
wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie

wrote:
One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. *A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. *It seems *OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,
--
Replace you know what by j to email

If you could locate a faucet of the same design & hopefully
manufacturer, you could just swap out the innards by backing out the
packing nut, winding out the stem, & reverse the procedure for the new
part.

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:10:52 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking.

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. It seems OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

See how to repack the stem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK0YJkkbJ0Q

I had a hose bib I could not get to stop and I did not want to solder
a new one on copper, I bought a new bib and cannibalized the stem and
packing from it. 5 minute job.

Jud McCranie wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking.

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. It seems OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

Based on what you wrote, you appear to have it almost fixed.

The nut that you tightened on the top compresses some paking that is around
the shaft and underneath the nut. Compressing that packing seals the leak.

You could try loosening the nut all the way and looking at what is
underneath the nut. You can buy teflon "valve stem thread" or "valve stem
packing" (I forget exactly what it is called) at any hardware store etc. --
in the plumbing repair area. Then, loosen the nut, wrap a little of the
packing thread around the shaft under the nut, then tighten the nut. That
should stop the leak completely.

On Jul 6, 1:09*pm, Jud McCranie
wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:02:39 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I'm assuming that when you say "faucets to the hoses" you mean the
shutoffs.

Well there is something very similar to a faucet for a garden hose in
the wall.

If there is a shut-off prior to this one (I doubt it) turn it off. If
not, turn off the house main.

I did shut off the main valve to the house.

Once that's done "Go for it"! If something breaks, you'll know what
you need to buy to fix it.

If something breaks, it will be beyond my ability to fix it.

Worst case is you might have to cap off the pipe leading
to the shutoff so you can turn the water back on.

That would be beyond what I'm able to do.
--
Replace you know what by j to email

That would be beyond what I'm able to do

But only because you have never done it before.

Google this and pick 1 or 2 hits to see how simple it is to do.

On Jul 6, 4:24*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 6, 1:09*pm, Jud McCranie
wrote:





On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:02:39 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
I'm assuming that when you say "faucets to the hoses" you mean the
shutoffs.

Well there is something very similar to a faucet for a garden hose in
the wall.

If there is a shut-off prior to this one (I doubt it) turn it off. If
not, turn off the house main.

I did shut off the main valve to the house.

Once that's done "Go for it"! If something breaks, you'll know what
you need to buy to fix it.

If something breaks, it will be beyond my ability to fix it.

Worst case is you might have to cap off the pipe leading
to the shutoff so you can turn the water back on.

That would be beyond what I'm able to do.
--
Replace you know what by j to email

That would be beyond what I'm able to do

But only because you have never done it before.

Google this and pick 1 or 2 hits to see how simple it is to do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Whoops!

Google this and pick 1 or 2 hits to see how simple it is to do

video glue pvc pipe

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 13:32:42 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 10:26:10 -0700 (PDT), Eric in North TX
wrote:

Here is a radical thought; why not rebuild the leaking one? That used
to be a first response.

I was going to say that first!

I thought it would be simpler to replace it, but that doesn't seem
easy. Repairing it may be more than I can do. I've repaired kitchen
and bathroom faucets, but they were designed to be repairable.

The only repair that seems possible is if it's leaking at the handle
stem. Then, on a metal faucet there is usually a six-sided part that
unscrews and you can repack the packing that keeps the water from
leaking out.

Crescent wrenches, adjustable wrenches are great for bicycles, but
they're always getting loose for a lot of other things and rounding
off corners or slipping. Except maybe the ones with gimmicks to keep
them at one setting. I used to have a set of Craftsman combination
open/box end wrenches but I lost them and now have a cheap set. So far
they've worked fine and been strong enough.

It is the hot water spigot that is leaking. When it is off it doesn't
leak. When it is on it leaks about three drops per second, out of the
shaft.

That's what I meant by stem. I hadn't read this far.

For the last couple of days we've had it off and have been
washing cold/cold.

I hear you can do that. The new soaps must be a lot better in the
last 30 years. Really dirty things that would never come clean before
come out perfectly clean in warm/cold. Haven't tried cold/cold much.

I didnt' believe they had enzymes in the detergent until I read that
there was a safety issue at the factory bnecause of enzymes. They
must really work.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 15:45:39 -0400, "BetaB4"
wrote:

Jud McCranie wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking.

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. It seems OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

Based on what you wrote, you appear to have it almost fixed.

The nut that you tightened on the top compresses some paking that is around
the shaft and underneath the nut. Compressing that packing seals the leak.

You could try loosening the nut all the way and looking at what is
underneath the nut. You can buy teflon "valve stem thread" or "valve stem
packing" (I forget exactly what it is called) at any hardware store etc. --
in the plumbing repair area. Then, loosen the nut, wrap a little of the
packing thread around the shaft under the nut, then tighten the nut. That
should stop the leak completely.

Probably shoudl remove the old stuff first when doing that, right?

The stuff I had was about an eigth of an inch in diameter. Should I
have squished the overlap together before putting the nut back on.

mm wrote:

Probably shoudl remove the old stuff first when doing that, right?

The stuff I had was about an eigth of an inch in diameter. Should I
have squished the overlap together before putting the nut back on.

The YouTube video link that Oren posted above pretty much shows the whole
process.

He wrote,

"See how to repack the stem:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lK0YJkkbJ0Q "



:

On Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:40:09 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:10:52 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking.

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. It seems OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

You can add or replace packing if its leaking at the bonnet shaft
(under the handle). Replace the faucet washer right away too. You
likely do not need a new faucet.


Good point about the washer. If I'm in that far replace it while I'm
there. (Once in a pinch I made a washer from hobby shop leather
(temporary) and replaced it later with the normal rubber washer.)

You said plastic pipe, I assume you mean CPVC (white pipe). It's not
too hard to cut that stuff and glue in a piece. Just shut off the
water main, drain pipes well, cut with a hacksaw and glue in pieces
with couplers or whatever fittings are needed. Be sure to use the
pipe cleaner as directed. Let it dry for at least an hour before
turning the water back on. Personally I like to let it sit all night.
But I doubt you will need to replace pipes, just fix the faucet
packing.

LM

On Jul 7, 4:21*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:40:09 -0500, wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:10:52 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. *A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. *It seems *OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

You can add or replace packing if its leaking at the bonnet shaft
(under the handle). *Replace the faucet washer right away too. *You
likely do not need a new faucet. *

Good point about the washer. If I'm in that far replace it while I'm
there. (Once in a pinch I made a washer from hobby shop leather
(temporary) and replaced it later with the normal rubber washer.)



You said plastic pipe, I assume you mean CPVC (white pipe). *It's not
too hard to cut that stuff and glue in a piece. *Just shut off the
water main, drain pipes well, cut with a hacksaw and glue in pieces
with couplers or whatever fittings are needed. *Be sure to use the
pipe cleaner as directed. *Let it dry for at least an hour before
turning the water back on. *Personally I like to let it sit all night.
But I doubt you will need to replace pipes, just fix the faucet
packing.

LM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"and replaced it later"

What! Don't you follow adage that says:

"It's only temporary...unless it works."

On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:27:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Jul 7, 4:21*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 07 Jul 2009 12:40:09 -0500, wrote:
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:10:52 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:27:31 -0400, Jud McCranie
wrote:

One of the faucets to the hoses of our washing machine started
leaking. *

I tightened the nut on the top and it almost quit leaking. *A little
water forms on the outside but not enough to drip. *It seems *OK for
the time being.

My thanks to everyone who helped,

You can add or replace packing if its leaking at the bonnet shaft
(under the handle). *Replace the faucet washer right away too. *You
likely do not need a new faucet. *

Good point about the washer. If I'm in that far replace it while I'm
there. (Once in a pinch I made a washer from hobby shop leather
(temporary) and replaced it later with the normal rubber washer.)



You said plastic pipe, I assume you mean CPVC (white pipe). *It's not
too hard to cut that stuff and glue in a piece. *Just shut off the
water main, drain pipes well, cut with a hacksaw and glue in pieces
with couplers or whatever fittings are needed. *Be sure to use the
pipe cleaner as directed. *Let it dry for at least an hour before
turning the water back on. *Personally I like to let it sit all night.
But I doubt you will need to replace pipes, just fix the faucet
packing.

LM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"and replaced it later"

What! Don't you follow adage that says:

"It's only temporary...unless it works."
-
Well it worked, temporarily!

On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 13:27:31 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


"and replaced it later"

What! Don't you follow adage that says:

"It's only temporary...unless it works."

Absolutely. After attempting to take apart a carburetor choke, I
figured out that it didn't come apart. I had to put it back together
with 30 minute epoxee (they didnt' have the quicker stuff then) and it
stayed that way for four more years until I junked the car.

Oh yeah, I tried to fix the choke because it stayed closed even when
it shouldn't have. On a trip to NY the smoke coming out the exhaust
was terrible. So I put the cap of a pen btween the choke-plate and
the housing. Just for the trip. But it worked well so it stayed
there for 4 years until I junked the car.

With not much choke, I had to start the car two or three times in the
winter before it stayed on, but that wasn't bad. A new carburetor was
hundreds of dollars.

On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 13:24:39 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

That would be beyond what I'm able to do

But only because you have never done it before.

I've never done it before.
--
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On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 15:45:39 -0400, "BetaB4"
wrote:

Based on what you wrote, you appear to have it almost fixed.

It is fixed "good enough". A little water on the outside but not
enough to drip.

You could try loosening the nut all the way and looking at what is
underneath the nut. You can buy teflon "valve stem thread" or "valve stem
packing"

Good idea, I can try that.
--
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On Jul 15, 7:11*pm, Jud McCranie
wrote:
On Mon, 6 Jul 2009 13:24:39 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:
That would be beyond what I'm able to do

But only because you have never done it before.

I've never done it before.
--
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If they are plumbed with CPVC instead of PVC pipe you are in luck. You
can get a very good connector called Sharkbite. Yuo just make a square
cut on the pipe and push the connector on the pipe. This make doing
simple plumbing super eaasy. Jud I know you can do this. Just google
sharkbite and check out their website I am sure this will give you an
idea of how to fix the plumbing if you havent gotten it fixed
already.

You should learn a new skill or two, how to sweat copper pipe, how to
make PVC glued connections. Both are easy to do. Instructions are
plentiful on the internet. Learning something new is always fun.


Jimmie