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#1
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade
sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#2
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
On Jun 25, 12:27�am, "W. eWatson" wrote:
I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? After reading your other post concerning a heavy tool box, I am suggesting (like another poster) you get a engine hoist,cherry picker, shop crane (they are all the same thing, just different names). They can be bought brand new for under $200. Used ones for about $100. You will learn that it will save you TONS of money and frustration. Sorry about the pun. Hank |
#3
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
W. eWatson wrote:
I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? Easiest thing IMO is to just take off the mowing deck. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#4
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
Hustlin' Hank wrote:
On Jun 25, 12:27�am, "W. eWatson" wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? After reading your other post concerning a heavy tool box, I am suggesting (like another poster) you get a engine hoist,cherry picker, shop crane (they are all the same thing, just different names). They can be bought brand new for under $200. Used ones for about $100. You will learn that it will save you TONS of money and frustration. Sorry about the pun. Hank Thanks, and I very much enjoy puns. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#5
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
dadiOH wrote:
W. eWatson wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? Easiest thing IMO is to just take off the mowing deck. Interesting idea. I'll look in the manual. There may be instructions on how to do that. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#6
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
"W. eWatson" wrote in message ... dadiOH wrote: W. eWatson wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? Easiest thing IMO is to just take off the mowing deck. Interesting idea. I'll look in the manual. There may be instructions on how to do that. I have two riding mowers. The Craftsman deck is easy to remove. The Monkey Wards is very difficult. But I agree, at least on the Craftsman, is it would be easier just to remove the deck. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#7
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
Ulysses wrote:
"W. eWatson" wrote in message ... dadiOH wrote: W. eWatson wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? Easiest thing IMO is to just take off the mowing deck. Interesting idea. I'll look in the manual. There may be instructions on how to do that. I have two riding mowers. The Craftsman deck is easy to remove. I'm not so sure I would say "easy" but it isn't awful. It would be easy if the holes in the studs were on the outboard side so I could actually *see* the pins to pull or place them. Somewhere there is an engineer that cackles merrily everytime he thinks of people trying to blindly find the damn holes. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#8
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
Do any of your friends own a set of automotive wheel ramps?
Might be the way to take care of this. Impact wrench might help, with removing the nut from the shaft. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "W. eWatson" wrote in message ... I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#9
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
"W. eWatson" wrote in message ... I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ Some people run the fuel tank dry, drain the oil, remove the battery, and either stand the mower up on its back end or lay it over sideways. Requires strength and care to prevent damage or injury but it is done. Don Young |
#10
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
"dadiOH" wrote in message ... W. eWatson wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? Easiest thing IMO is to just take off the mowing deck. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico For a Deere, removing the deck may be overkill, especially if it's been on for a decade. For my Deere, I tried the car ramp thing but for reasons I've forgotten, didn't think it would work. My next effort was to drive it up the edge of a ramp going into the storage shed, which was possible but still awkward. Finally I went to Sears and got a light-weight hydraulic car jack for about $30. Now I can just jack up one side and do the work, or put supports under it, jack up the other side and have it completely raised up. |
#11
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
I was kind of looking forward to using a fairly high ramp, but when it got
down to it, my neighbor's long handled wrench did the trick. I did get it up on an 8" slanted ramp, and with some fooling around while lying on one's back, and using a 2x4 to make sure the blade didn't move, off it came. Actually, there were two blades--to my surprise. The blades are now off getting sharpened. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#12
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
We knew you could do it. Good job.
-- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "W. eWatson" wrote in message ... I was kind of looking forward to using a fairly high ramp, but when it got down to it, my neighbor's long handled wrench did the trick. I did get it up on an 8" slanted ramp, and with some fooling around while lying on one's back, and using a 2x4 to make sure the blade didn't move, off it came. Actually, there were two blades--to my surprise. The blades are now off getting sharpened. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ |
#13
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
"W. eWatson" wrote in message ... I was kind of looking forward to using a fairly high ramp, but when it got down to it, my neighbor's long handled wrench did the trick. I did get it up on an 8" slanted ramp, and with some fooling around while lying on one's back, and using a 2x4 to make sure the blade didn't move, off it came. Actually, there were two blades--to my surprise. The blades are now off getting sharpened. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ Glad you got them off okay. Be careful not to put them back on upside down; it's pretty easy to do when you have limited access. Don Young |
#14
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
"W. eWatson" wrote in message ... I was kind of looking forward to using a fairly high ramp, but when it got down to it, my neighbor's long handled wrench did the trick. I did get it up on an 8" slanted ramp, and with some fooling around while lying on one's back, and using a 2x4 to make sure the blade didn't move, off it came. Actually, there were two blades--to my surprise. The blades are now off getting sharpened. -- W. eWatson (121.015 Deg. W, 39.262 Deg. N) GMT-8 hr std. time) Obz Site: 39° 15' 7" N, 121° 2' 32" W, 2700 feet Web Page: www.speckledwithstars.net/ As someone else pointed out, it's easy to put them back on improperly. For that reason, and for convenience, I bought a second set of blades, so when it's sharpening time I take the dull pair off and immediately put the sharpened ones on. Then I can sharpen the removed blades at my convenience. It's half as much work because the hardest part is getting the dang thing up high enough to work on the blades, and this way I only have to do it once. |
#15
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
A come-a-long and a sky-hook, right? g
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#16
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Changing My Riding Mower Blade
On Jun 25, 6:53*am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:
On Jun 25, 12:27 am, "W. eWatson" wrote: I have a 10 year old Deere lawn mower, and decided to have the blade sharpened. The last time I did this was about 4 years ago. I made a ramp for one set of wheels, left probably, from a 2x6 and used 8" high concrete brick then drove up it. I got the blade off pretty easily, as I recall. Not so this time. Maybe rust or something has tightened it up. This time I put two 2x6s on bricks and rolled it up. The center of the blade is about 3" from the left wheel track and the distance from the ground to the blade increased by maybe 4-6", so clearance is tricky to work. I have no vehicle to put the mower into, or I'd be tempted to take it to a dealer. Any suggestions on how to build a ramp that would make this easier to service? After reading your other post concerning a heavy tool box, I am suggesting (like another poster) you get a engine hoist,cherry picker, shop crane (they are all the same thing, just different names). They can be bought brand new for under $200. Used ones for about $100. You will learn that it will save you TONS of money and frustration. Sorry about the pun. Hank you get a engine hoist, cherry picker, shop crane (they are all the same thing, just different names). Kind of reminds me of the kid's game of "One of these things is not like the others." g Engine Hoist: http://www.ytmag.com/gallery/jd2010art4/hoist.jpg Cherry Picker: http://randwick.ses.nsw.gov.au/album..._starts_up.jpg Shop Crane: http://www.lakewoodconferences.com/d...Shop_Crane.jpg |
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