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Default Roof sagging

When the house was built a couple of the engineered trussses were cut
to allow for a chimney. After 34 years a couple of the Z braces on
two trusses started buckling and the roof above them has a slight
sag. The ceiling joist remained straight. The trusses are soundly
fastened to the chimney and there isnt any evidence of the chimney
settling also there is no problem with the roof on the opposite side
of the chimney. This was first noticed about 4 years ago. My fix was
to place a beam made of two 2x6s screwed together across 4 good
trusses and the 2 effected trusses and installing two lolly colums
from the beam to the point of the rafter point on the trusses in the
middle of the sag. I gradually extend the lolly colums over a period
of about 3 years and at this point the warped bracing and sagging spot
in the roof are now straight. I want to remove the added bracing. I
am guessing that there was a change in load distibution due to cutting
the trusses for the chimney and more load ws placed on these braces
than they were designed.I was thinking about screwing strips of
plywood to the affected bracing to make it more rigid and possibly
doing the same to the rafter and joist portions of the effected
trusses. I gave some thought to replacing the effected bracing but the
gussets that hold it in place also splice together sections of the
rafter. Any opinions and advice would be appreciated.

Jimmie
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Default Roof sagging

On Jun 22, 6:04*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
When the house was built a couple of the engineered trussses were cut
to allow for a chimney. After 34 years a couple of the Z braces *on
two trusses started buckling and *the roof above them has a slight
sag. The ceiling joist remained straight. The trusses are soundly
fastened to the chimney and there isnt any evidence of the chimney
settling also there is no problem with the roof on the opposite side
of the chimney. This was first noticed about 4 years ago. My fix was
to place a beam made of two 2x6s screwed together across 4 good
trusses and the 2 effected trusses and installing two lolly colums
from the beam to the point of the rafter point on the trusses in the
middle of the sag. I gradually extend the lolly colums over a period
of about 3 years and at this point the warped bracing and sagging spot
in the *roof are now straight. I want to remove the added bracing. I
am guessing that there was a change in load distibution due to cutting
the trusses for the chimney and more load ws placed on these braces
than they were designed.I was thinking about screwing strips of
plywood to the affected bracing to make it more rigid and possibly
doing the same to the rafter and joist portions of the effected
trusses. I gave some thought to replacing the effected bracing but the
gussets that hold it in place also splice together sections of the
rafter. Any opinions and advice would be appreciated.

Jimmie


advice?

More white space in your posts
Provide some photos of the condition
get a CE or SE to take a look & design a fix

SWAG suggestion.......
use some plywood "truss plates" to install more temporary truss
members (I'm assuming your jack columns are placed where truss members
used to be?)
removed the jack columns and install permanent truss members

I would suggest using 16 gage staples to attach the plywood truss
plates

cheers
Bob
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Default Roof sagging

On Jun 22, 8:04*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
When the house was built a couple of the engineered trussses were cut
to allow for a chimney. After 34 years a couple of the Z braces *on
two trusses started buckling and *the roof above them has a slight
sag. The ceiling joist remained straight. The trusses are soundly
fastened to the chimney and there isnt any evidence of the chimney
settling also there is no problem with the roof on the opposite side
of the chimney. This was first noticed about 4 years ago. My fix was
to place a beam made of two 2x6s screwed together across 4 good
trusses and the 2 effected trusses and installing two lolly colums
from the beam to the point of the rafter point on the trusses in the
middle of the sag. I gradually extend the lolly colums over a period
of about 3 years and at this point the warped bracing and sagging spot
in the *roof are now straight. I want to remove the added bracing. I
am guessing that there was a change in load distibution due to cutting
the trusses for the chimney and more load ws placed on these braces
than they were designed.I was thinking about screwing strips of
plywood to the affected bracing to make it more rigid and possibly
doing the same to the rafter and joist portions of the effected
trusses. I gave some thought to replacing the effected bracing but the
gussets that hold it in place also splice together sections of the
rafter. Any opinions and advice would be appreciated.

Jimmie


If it is ok, I would not change anything!!!
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Default Roof sagging

On Jun 22, 10:51*pm, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
On Jun 22, 8:04*pm, JIMMIE wrote:





When the house was built a couple of the engineered trussses were cut
to allow for a chimney. After 34 years a couple of the Z braces *on
two trusses started buckling and *the roof above them has a slight
sag. The ceiling joist remained straight. The trusses are soundly
fastened to the chimney and there isnt any evidence of the chimney
settling also there is no problem with the roof on the opposite side
of the chimney. This was first noticed about 4 years ago. My fix was
to place a beam made of two 2x6s screwed together across 4 good
trusses and the 2 effected trusses and installing two lolly colums
from the beam to the point of the rafter point on the trusses in the
middle of the sag. I gradually extend the lolly colums over a period
of about 3 years and at this point the warped bracing and sagging spot
in the *roof are now straight. I want to remove the added bracing. I
am guessing that there was a change in load distibution due to cutting
the trusses for the chimney and more load ws placed on these braces
than they were designed.I was thinking about screwing strips of
plywood to the affected bracing to make it more rigid and possibly
doing the same to the rafter and joist portions of the effected
trusses. I gave some thought to replacing the effected bracing but the
gussets that hold it in place also splice together sections of the
rafter. Any opinions and advice would be appreciated.


Jimmie


If it is ok, I would not change anything!!!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


If I were going to live there which was the plan I wouldnt have a
problem with it. Its the firmest part of the roof. Since my wife and I
have changed our plans about retiring there I thought it may be
prudent to remove the southern engineering before attempting to sell
the home. I want to make this look more like origonal design to
correct for the cut trusses than a repair.

Jimmie
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