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Default Upstairs too hot

The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull
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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

I have same problem. HVAC guy said it would cost a fortune to set up
ductwork and fans to correct. Since there are only 2 of us, wife is
thinking about getting a portable AC. I don't want to stick one in the
window. Maybe others can comment.
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Default Upstairs too hot


"Frank" wrote in message
...
Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

I have same problem. HVAC guy said it would cost a fortune to set up
ductwork and fans to correct. Since there are only 2 of us, wife is
thinking about getting a portable AC. I don't want to stick one in the
window. Maybe others can comment.


Exhaust fan upstairs?

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Default Upstairs too hot


" The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.



*This topic has been mentioned here a few times. More insulation, an attic
exhaust fan, reconfiguring your ducts, adjusting your vents, or adding
another zone could all help to one degree (No pun intended) or another.

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Default Upstairs too hot

Cover part of the downstairs ducts to cut down
airflow.

I'd just lean something over them, but a wife may
want you to unscrew the grill and put the blockage
under it for neatness, when you get the size
right.
--


On the internet, nobody knows you're a jerk.


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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

Venetian blinds or room-darkening shades at windows. Depending on
layout, a ceiling fan in stairway or near it might help push the warm
air downstairs or toward return to AC. Insulation. Attic ventilation
with ridge vents and soffit vents.
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Default Upstairs too hot

On Jun 21, 12:31*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
" * *The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the

summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
* * Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


*This topic has been mentioned here a few times. *More insulation, an attic
exhaust fan, reconfiguring your ducts, adjusting your vents, or adding
another zone could all help to one degree (No pun intended) or another.


To the above list, I'd add:

Check all the existing ducts and returns. It's not unusual for
joints to be made and held together with duct tape, which dries out,
then the ducts become disconnected or have major leaks.

Make sure there are enough return air vents upstairs. Many times,
you can just cut a bigger opening in the wall and use a bigger grill,
which can improve air flow. Sometimes, with minimal work, you can add
returns too.

There are booster fans available which can go either as hardwired in a
duct that feeds the upstairs, or plug-in type that sit over the
register and have built-in sensor that turns it on when it detects air
flow.

If none of the above is enough, a ductless mini-split system may also
be appropriate
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Default Upstairs too hot

In article ,
" wrote:

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

Venetian blinds or room-darkening shades at windows. Depending on
layout, a ceiling fan in stairway or near it might help push the warm
air downstairs or toward return to AC. Insulation. Attic ventilation
with ridge vents and soffit vents.


Is the ceiling fan exhausted into the attic or would I need to put
a hole in my roof? I have two ridge vents, one above the (downstairs)
family room w/ cathedral ceiling, and another on the main roof. I
counted 8 soffit vents including 6 along the main living upstairs living
area.
How much insulation is currently be suggested?

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull
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Default Upstairs too hot

Sanity wrote:

"Frank" wrote in message
...
Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during
the summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable,
the downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm
trying to avoid tearing up the roof.

I have same problem. HVAC guy said it would cost a fortune to set up
ductwork and fans to correct. Since there are only 2 of us, wife is
thinking about getting a portable AC. I don't want to stick one in
the window. Maybe others can comment.


Exhaust fan upstairs?


How hot is the attic? How much insulation above upstairs ceiling? If
attic isn't vented enough, you may be able to increase ventilation
without tearing up the roof, if you have gables. Add or improve gable
vents (Including maybe a T-stat controlled fan pulling out), and unblock
or add soffitt vents. If you don't have at least a foot of insulation,
add some, making sure not to block the soffitt vent tubes. Did the above
to my place, and it dropped attic temp at least 20 degrees on a sunny
day. AC works less, and attic doesn't superheat and heat ceiling till
midnight like it used to.

Within limits, you can do a poor man's zoning of the cooling system by
the old trick of partially blocking some of the downstairs registers and
air returns. Pay close attention though- if system starts running
longer, or coil starts freezing up, it didn't like whatever you did. Do
you have enough air returns upstairs? A lot of builders cheap out and
only put one in the center hallway, and count on air under the doors to
provide a return path. That often gets blocked by carpet. Try leaving
all the upstairs doors open during the day, if you normally leave them
closed.

I assume you are already leaving the drapes shut on sunny side of the
house, and running any ceiling fans you have, to get the air well
stirred? If you can stand the noise, a cheap box fan aimed up the
stairwell can make a noticeable difference.I would not put an exhaust
fan in an upstairs window during the day- you electric bill will
skyrocket from cooling the outdoors.

--
aem sends...
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Default Upstairs too hot

On Jun 21, 12:46*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,

" wrote:
Kurt Ullman wrote:
* * The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
* * *Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


Venetian blinds or room-darkening shades at windows. *Depending on
layout, a ceiling fan in stairway or near it might help push the warm
air downstairs or toward return to AC. Insulation. *Attic ventilation
with ridge vents and soffit vents.


* * *Is the ceiling fan exhausted into the attic or would I need to put
a hole in my roof?


He's talking about a ceiling fan that circulates air within the
house. IF you can place one in a location where it can push hot air
down from the second floor to the first floor, it could help. Plus
the breeze will make it feel cooler.


*I have two ridge vents, one above the (downstairs)
family room w/ cathedral ceiling, and another on the main roof. I
counted 8 soffit vents including 6 along the main living upstairs living
area.
* * *How much insulation is currently be suggested?


Depends on the climate. What you need in SC is different than in
MN. Also, the number of vents doesn't matter. What's important is
that they are distributed and that there is sufficient exhaust and
intake AREA for the attic size.




--
*"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull




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Default Upstairs too hot

In article
,
aemeijers wrote:


Within limits, you can do a poor man's zoning of the cooling system by
the old trick of partially blocking some of the downstairs registers and
air returns. Pay close attention though- if system starts running
longer, or coil starts freezing up, it didn't like whatever you did. Do
you have enough air returns upstairs? A lot of builders cheap out and
only put one in the center hallway, and count on air under the doors to
provide a return path. That often gets blocked by carpet. Try leaving
all the upstairs doors open during the day, if you normally leave them
closed.

The air returns are the ones high on the wall, right? Every
room upstairs (we have four bedrooms)has one. Each room also has at
least one and some have two on the floor. Kids have moved out, so we
don't use three of the four bedrooms. We turned off the registers and
keep the doors closed to these. Should we open them back up and them
maybe close the ones downstairs?



I assume you are already leaving the drapes shut on sunny side of the
house, and running any ceiling fans you have, to get the air well
stirred? If you can stand the noise, a cheap box fan aimed up the
stairwell can make a noticeable difference.I would not put an exhaust
fan in an upstairs window during the day- you electric bill will
skyrocket from cooling the outdoors.

The ceiling fan in the bedroom runs all the time. We turned off the
ones in the non0-used bedrooms. In addition to the drapes, we have a
really nice big tree just outside the bedroom windows which cuts off a
LOT of the direct sunlight.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull
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Default Upstairs too hot

On Jun 21, 11:42*am, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* * The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
* * *Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


I started leaving the air handler fan running on low all the time.
seems to counteract this somewhat, and as a nice benefit, keeps the
humidity more consistent between basement and upstairs as well. I was
worried that living outside of DC doing so would overwork the small
portable dehumidifier in my basement (humidity is higher than
comfortable even when the outdoor temperature is reasonable) but it
seems to be working out OK. Still the upstairs is 2-3 degrees warmer
than the first floor and warmer yet than the basement, will likely
install attic fan to try to help at some point in the vague future.

nate
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Default Upstairs too hot


"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull


Options:

1. Add insulation in the attic. 12-18 inches above code for your area.

2. Add an attic fan

3. Get a digital, programmable thermostat. Set higher during the day,
lower at night.

4. Set your thermostat fan setting at night to ON before going to bed, so it
runs even when the temperature has dropped to/below the set point. Set it
back to AUTO when you wake. This might also allow you to set the overnight
temp 1-2 deg higher and still be comfortable.

5. Keep drapes on south and west sides closed. If you have south/west
windows with sheer or no drapes, get opaque drapes.

6. Close off first floor vents in summer so all of the forced air goes
upstairs. Open in autumn.



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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


ya, dampering system and multiple thermostats.
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Default Upstairs too hot

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


What are you using for cooling? Separate AC systems for each floor?
An evaporative cooler? Only a fan?

What is your climate? Arctic? Tropical? Desert?

Believe it or not, these are factors that are more important than how
old your house is.


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Default Upstairs too hot

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.


What floor is the T-stat on? Check behind the T-stat and see if there
is to much hole for the wire (patch). Heat travels through the wall
cavities and makes the T-stat operate erratically.

Another thing is to seal around an attic access panel on the second
floor. Just sealing the panel stopped attic heat from drafting into
the second floor. Little things help with days and days at 115F.

Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

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Default Upstairs too hot

In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


What are you using for cooling? Separate AC systems for each floor?
An evaporative cooler? Only a fan?

A/C, just one for both floors. Only one thermostat, on first floor.
The AC is original equipment.



What is your climate? Arctic? Tropical? Desert?

Indiana. Probably moderate, but last few days have been 80-90 and
HUUMMMIIIDDD. Generally tends to be livable in the upstairs until we get
to mid-80s ambient.


Believe it or not, these are factors that are more important than how
old your house is.


I belive you. Just did not know. (G).

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull
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Default Upstairs too hot

In article ,
Oren wrote:

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.


What floor is the T-stat on? Check behind the T-stat and see if there
is to much hole for the wire (patch). Heat travels through the wall
cavities and makes the T-stat operate erratically.


First floor. Looked at it, and the hole is about an inch across,
but I filled a lot of it with spackle when I changed out to a
programmable T-stat a few years ago.


Another thing is to seal around an attic access panel on the second
floor. Just sealing the panel stopped attic heat from drafting into
the second floor. Little things help with days and days at 115F.

The access panel is really just a square hole in the ceiling with a
board over it. The board has a batten (is that the word) of insulation
over the top of it.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull
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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
" wrote:

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

Venetian blinds or room-darkening shades at windows. Depending on
layout, a ceiling fan in stairway or near it might help push the warm
air downstairs or toward return to AC. Insulation. Attic ventilation
with ridge vents and soffit vents.


Is the ceiling fan exhausted into the attic or would I need to put
a hole in my roof? I have two ridge vents, one above the (downstairs)


What I referred to was not an exhaust fan - just one of those thingys
you hang from the ceiling ) If situated right, you might be able to
bring cool air up or warm air down.

family room w/ cathedral ceiling, and another on the main roof. I
counted 8 soffit vents including 6 along the main living upstairs living
area.


There is a formula for calculating how much attic ventilation you need,
based on square feet of attic FLOOR space... one sq. ft. roof vent per
300 sq. ft. attic floor. Should make sure that soffits aren't covered
by insulation.
How much insulation is currently be suggested?


Ransley knows all the numbers for that )

Insulation in walls are a factor, and even landscaping (shade trees, etc.)
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Default Upstairs too hot

Dimitrios Paskoudniakis wrote:
"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull


Options:

1. Add insulation in the attic. 12-18 inches above code for your area.

2. Add an attic fan

3. Get a digital, programmable thermostat. Set higher during the day,
lower at night.

4. Set your thermostat fan setting at night to ON before going to bed, so it
runs even when the temperature has dropped to/below the set point. Set it
back to AUTO when you wake. This might also allow you to set the overnight
temp 1-2 deg higher and still be comfortable.

5. Keep drapes on south and west sides closed. If you have south/west
windows with sheer or no drapes, get opaque drapes.

Room darkening window shades, esp. for rooms with little use, are an
effective and very cheap alternative.

6. Close off first floor vents in summer so all of the forced air goes
upstairs. Open in autumn.





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Default Upstairs too hot

On Jun 21, 12:37*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article
,

*aemeijers wrote:
Within limits, you can do a poor man's zoning of the cooling system by
the old trick of partially blocking some of the downstairs registers and
air returns. Pay close attention though- if system starts running
longer, or coil starts freezing up, it didn't like whatever you did. Do
you have enough air returns upstairs? A lot of builders cheap out and
only put one in the center hallway, and count on air under the doors to
provide a return path. That often gets blocked by carpet. Try leaving
all the upstairs doors open during the day, if you normally leave them
closed.


* * * * * The air returns are the ones high on the wall, right? Every
room upstairs (we have four bedrooms)has one. Each room also has at
least one and some have two on the floor. Kids have moved out, so we
don't use three of the four bedrooms. We turned off the registers and
keep the doors closed to these. Should we open them back up and them
maybe close the ones downstairs?



I assume you are already leaving the drapes shut on sunny side of the
house, and running any ceiling fans you have, to get the air well
stirred? If you can stand the noise, a cheap box fan aimed up the
stairwell can make a noticeable difference.I would not put an exhaust
fan in an upstairs window during the day- you electric bill will
skyrocket from cooling the outdoors.


* * *The ceiling fan in the bedroom runs all the time. We turned off the
ones in the non0-used bedrooms. In addition to the drapes, we have a
really nice big tree just outside the bedroom windows which cuts off a
LOT of the direct sunlight.

--
*"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull


I would try leaving the blower on all the time, open all second floor
vents and returns and reduce 1st floor vents and returns. Reduce
airflow to much and the coil will freeze up, so you should keep an eye
on it. Has it been checked for freon, and the coil cleaned? If airflow
is bad upstairs out of vents, there are inline duct fan boosters that
can turn on with your thermostat to get more air to the second floor.
You may have supply upstairs but without 2nd floor returns you wont
cool, are the grills restrictive. There is alot you can try but a pro
is a good idea.
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Default Upstairs too hot

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 15:49:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:


On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


What are you using for cooling? Separate AC systems for each floor?
An evaporative cooler? Only a fan?

A/C, just one for both floors. Only one thermostat, on first floor.
The AC is original equipment.




What is your climate? Arctic? Tropical? Desert?

Indiana. Probably moderate, but last few days have been 80-90 and
HUUMMMIIIDDD. Generally tends to be livable in the upstairs until we get
to mid-80s ambient.



Believe it or not, these are factors that are more important than how
old your house is.


I belive you. Just did not know. (G).



With one system, it's obviously going to get hotter upstairs; heat rises.

As another poster suggested, shut off the first floor registers. Maybe see
about getting a thermostat where you can run it fan only to help mix the air?
Set a high velocity fan at the bottom of the stairs blowing upstairs?
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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
AZ Nomad wrote:

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:42:26 -0400, Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

What are you using for cooling? Separate AC systems for each floor?
An evaporative cooler? Only a fan?

A/C, just one for both floors. Only one thermostat, on first floor.
The AC is original equipment.


What is your climate? Arctic? Tropical? Desert?

Indiana. Probably moderate, but last few days have been 80-90 and
HUUMMMIIIDDD. Generally tends to be livable in the upstairs until we get
to mid-80s ambient.

....

You need to determine for sure which are returns and which are the
outlets -- it's likely your supposition is right, but there's nothing to
say they necessarily installed it conventionally correct.

If you've closed off all the unused rooms it may well be you don't have
enough return air path left upstairs if there isn't a return in hallway
of sufficient size, for example.

Check where the distribution ducts are--did they run upstairs in attic
and are they adequately insulated? Do you have trouble w/ heat in
winter as well (being cool upstairs instead of hot, of course)?

The trick will be to get more upstairs by closing off downstairs w/o
cutting it off too much. If you were lucky and there was an adjustable
damper in the main plenum where it splits for the two floors, that would
be good...

Keeping circulation going and a ceiling fan in the upstairs rooms would
undoubtedly help comfort even if doesn't change airflow that much.

One thing in this trying is it'll take time--make a change and observe
it for at least a couple days before doing something else or you'll
never get anywhere about figuring out what does/doesn't help w/o a real
measurement.

--
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Default Upstairs too hot

In article ,
dpb wrote:


If you've closed off all the unused rooms it may well be you don't have
enough return air path left upstairs if there isn't a return in hallway
of sufficient size, for example.


The returns do not have a way to close them like the registers. So if I
just close the doors to the rooms would that mess me up like this
concern?

Check where the distribution ducts are--did they run upstairs in attic
and are they adequately insulated? Do you have trouble w/ heat in
winter as well (being cool upstairs instead of hot, of course)?

Attic and they have the greyish coverings. Don't know if that is
adequate, but it was standard.
The upstairs is cooler in the winter than downstairs, but not so
much that it is uncomfortable. There can be a 10 degree difference in
the summer, and I have never seen more than 5 in the winter. Probably
related to heat rising.


The trick will be to get more upstairs by closing off downstairs w/o
cutting it off too much. If you were lucky and there was an adjustable
damper in the main plenum where it splits for the two floors, that would
be good...

Not that I can see near the furnace in the basement. Any place else
wouldl not be accessible.


Keeping circulation going and a ceiling fan in the upstairs rooms would
undoubtedly help comfort even if doesn't change airflow that much.


Okay. I am wondering if I should reopen (1) the doors and/or (2) the
registers in the upstairs closed down rooms as a first cut.



One thing in this trying is it'll take time--make a change and observe
it for at least a couple days before doing something else or you'll
never get anywhere about figuring out what does/doesn't help w/o a real
measurement.

--


--
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called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
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Default Upstairs too hot

"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
In article
,
aemeijers wrote:


Within limits, you can do a poor man's zoning of the cooling system by
the old trick of partially blocking some of the downstairs registers and
air returns. Pay close attention though- if system starts running
longer, or coil starts freezing up, it didn't like whatever you did. Do
you have enough air returns upstairs? A lot of builders cheap out and
only put one in the center hallway, and count on air under the doors to
provide a return path. That often gets blocked by carpet. Try leaving
all the upstairs doors open during the day, if you normally leave them
closed.

The air returns are the ones high on the wall, right? Every
room upstairs (we have four bedrooms)has one. Each room also has at
least one and some have two on the floor. Kids have moved out, so we
don't use three of the four bedrooms. We turned off the registers and
keep the doors closed to these. Should we open them back up and them
maybe close the ones downstairs?


The 'returns' high on the wall are likely -supply- vents, not returns. And,
if there are three such vents, one is a return (on the floor or low on the
wall) and the other two are supply. One is for summer, (a/c) it is up high,
and the other is for winter (heat) it is down low. Unblock the return and
the upper vents, leave the other (heat) one blocked.



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Default Upstairs too hot

On your thermostat, turn the Fan to the ON position. This will circulation
all the air in your
home and help to eliminate hot and cold spots throughout the house.

"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull

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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
dpb wrote:

If you've closed off all the unused rooms it may well be you don't have
enough return air path left upstairs if there isn't a return in hallway
of sufficient size, for example.


The returns do not have a way to close them like the registers. So if I
just close the doors to the rooms would that mess me up like this
concern?

Check where the distribution ducts are--did they run upstairs in attic
and are they adequately insulated? Do you have trouble w/ heat in
winter as well (being cool upstairs instead of hot, of course)?

Attic and they have the greyish coverings. Don't know if that is
adequate, but it was standard.


If the rooms are unused then cooling them and letting air simply
recirculate within them is somewhat a waste (obviously). It's very
difficult (as in impossible ) to say what really would make a
difference from afar as there's too much can't see to assess. Unless
there's adequate supply _and_ return in the other areas it may hurt more
than help. On the other hand, if turn the registers off in those rooms
you're building up pressure against those and where that redistributes
will depend on how the duct work is arranged--it's _possible_ more will
be directed to the other upstairs rooms but then again, it may not make
much difference if they're already at about their max.

For 20 years ago, certainly. Might pay to put a thermometer in the
outlet of a couple of those upstairs and see what the exit temperature
is there as compared to some of them downstairs.

....

Okay. I am wondering if I should reopen (1) the doors and/or (2) the
registers in the upstairs closed down rooms as a first cut.

....
Just make a set of changes and let them go for a few days and do some
comparisons. W/O actual measurements it's purely trial and error and
you've got to only change a thing or two at a time and see what really
happens or will never isolate any cause/effect.

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Default Upstairs too hot

Frank wrote:
Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during
the summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable,
the downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm
trying to avoid tearing up the roof.

I have same problem. HVAC guy said it would cost a fortune to set up
ductwork and fans to correct. Since there are only 2 of us, wife is
thinking about getting a portable AC. I don't want to stick one in
the window. Maybe others can comment.


I bought and installed a 110v window unit in the bedroom.

It cut my power bill by 2/3rds.

Honest - from $240/month to $80.

Think on it; why cool the whole house for the twelve hours a day you're
sleeping?


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Kurt Ullman wrote:

Is the ceiling fan exhausted into the attic or would I need to put
a hole in my roof? I have two ridge vents, one above the (downstairs)
family room w/ cathedral ceiling, and another on the main roof. I
counted 8 soffit vents including 6 along the main living upstairs
living area.


The "recommended" soffit area is 1 sq in of unrestricted vent area for each
1 sq FOOT of ATTIC floor area.

If your soffit vents are, say, 8x72 inches that's nominally 576 sq inches.
BUT you must consider the mesh that keeps out the bugs. If the mesh
resembles hardware cloth, subtract 10% to get the effective area. If the
mesh is more like window screening, subtract 50%.

About the worst thing you can use is that perforated HardiPlank. Oh, it's
got a lot of holes, but if you add up the hole area, it comes to about 2
square inches per 10 lineal feet.

That said, you can't have too much soffit vent area. Just today I finished
TRIPLING the soffit vent area on my house.

The bitchiest part was cutting holes in the soffits. Finally used a chain
saw.

What with R30 in the attic, fussing with the soffits, window unit in the
bedroom, radiant barrier to come, I'm of the opinion it would be simpler to
just STEAL electricity! Mumble-mumble.


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Default Upstairs too hot

On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 17:52:30 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Think on it; why cool the whole house for the twelve hours a day you're
sleeping?


Old people don't sleep twelve hours?



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On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:07:23 -0400, Frank
wrote:

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

I have same problem. HVAC guy said it would cost a fortune to set up
ductwork and fans to correct. Since there are only 2 of us, wife is
thinking about getting a portable AC. I don't want to stick one in the
window. Maybe others can comment.

Insulate the attic
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Oren wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 17:52:30 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Think on it; why cool the whole house for the twelve hours a day
you're sleeping?


Old people don't sleep twelve hours?


Okay, fourteen. Whatever.


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On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:36:16 -0400, Ron Hardin
wrote:

Cover part of the downstairs ducts to cut down
airflow.

I'd just lean something over them, but a wife may
want you to unscrew the grill and put the blockage
under it for neatness, when you get the size
right.


Blocking too much of the airflow will screw up the ac unit by reducing
total flow across the evap coil.
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Default Upstairs too hot

Sounds like you've got air flow problems. Cold air is
heavier than warm air, so it's hard for the furnace to push
the cold air up from the cellar. You may also have poor air
return to the furnace. Many times I've seen under sized air
returns causing problems.

As others have mentioned, running the circulating fan all
the time may help.

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"Kurt Ullman" wrote in message
...
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs
during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs
comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also,
I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull




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Default Upstairs too hot

Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

Hi,
How is your attic vent and ceiling insulation?
Also ceiling fans would help.
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N8N wrote:
On Jun 21, 11:42 am, Kurt Ullman wrote:
The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.


I started leaving the air handler fan running on low all the time.
seems to counteract this somewhat, and as a nice benefit, keeps the
humidity more consistent between basement and upstairs as well. I was
worried that living outside of DC doing so would overwork the small
portable dehumidifier in my basement (humidity is higher than
comfortable even when the outdoor temperature is reasonable) but it
seems to be working out OK. Still the upstairs is 2-3 degrees warmer
than the first floor and warmer yet than the basement, will likely
install attic fan to try to help at some point in the vague future.

nate

Hi,
Also our thermostat is wireless, in winter we locate it downstairs, in
summer we locate it upstairs and close few air registers downstairs to
even out temp. between up/downstairs. Works prewtty good.
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On Jun 21, 11:42*am, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* * The upstairs is almost always hotter than the downstairs during the
summer. Noticeably hotter. If we get the upstairs comfortable, the
downstairs is like an ice box.
* * *Any suggestions? The house is about 20 years old. Also, I'm trying
to avoid tearing up the roof.

--
*"I found what I thought was a REALLY good book,
called _Girl to Grab_. Imagine my surprise when I found
out it was volume 6 of the *Encyclopedia Britanica*!"
-Martin Mull


I live in a 100 year old house. Back then they built them to work
without AC. I just run an exhaust fan, blowing out, 24/7 in the
summer in a hallway window. The kids run fans blowing in when they
want to. It cools the house at night and removes the heat buildup
during the day. I put a window unit in my bedroom and use it at night
for about 2 weeks out of the year.

BTW, I work out of my house so it's not like there's no one home
during the day to complain about the heat.
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Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:36:16 -0400, Ron Hardin
wrote:


Cover part of the downstairs ducts to cut down
airflow.

I'd just lean something over them, but a wife may
want you to unscrew the grill and put the blockage
under it for neatness, when you get the size
right.



Blocking too much of the airflow will screw up the ac unit by reducing
total flow across the evap coil.


Parsing that sentence leads me to the (I believe correct) conclusion
that as long as you don't block "too much" you'll be fine.
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On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:18:03 -0500, cjt
wrote:

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 12:36:16 -0400, Ron Hardin
wrote:


Cover part of the downstairs ducts to cut down
airflow.

I'd just lean something over them, but a wife may
want you to unscrew the grill and put the blockage
under it for neatness, when you get the size
right.



Blocking too much of the airflow will screw up the ac unit by reducing
total flow across the evap coil.


Parsing that sentence leads me to the (I believe correct) conclusion
that as long as you don't block "too much" you'll be fine.


Yes. But you need to put gauges on the system to find out where "too
much" is.
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