Exhibit A:
Ancient Stanley garage door opener from the 1980's, runs -only- on 120v AC.

Exhibit B:
Skylink universal gar. door remote kit. Receiver is designed to wire
into push-button circuit, runs on 12v DC 100mA.

Exhibit C:
Ancient Signalman converter, "for use with telephone".
Input: 117v AC 60Hz 6W, standard male-spade plug.
Output: 12v DC 300 mA

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will

"Wilfred Xavier Pickles" wrote in message
...

Exhibit A:
Ancient Stanley garage door opener from the 1980's, runs -only- on 120v
AC.

Exhibit B:
Skylink universal gar. door remote kit. Receiver is designed to wire
into push-button circuit, runs on 12v DC 100mA.

Exhibit C:
Ancient Signalman converter, "for use with telephone".
Input: 117v AC 60Hz 6W, standard male-spade plug.
Output: 12v DC 300 mA

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will


Seems to me that it would be unnecessary. Even old door operators have a set
of momentary contact terminals that you connect your push buttons to. The
wireless remotes that I've seen, just connect to those two screws, plug the
device in to an outlet, and the remote closes it's switch momentarily.

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
Exhibit A:
Ancient Stanley garage door opener from the 1980's, runs -only- on 120v AC.

Exhibit B:
Skylink universal gar. door remote kit. Receiver is designed to wire
into push-button circuit, runs on 12v DC 100mA.

Exhibit C:
Ancient Signalman converter, "for use with telephone".
Input: 117v AC 60Hz 6W, standard male-spade plug.
Output: 12v DC 300 mA

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will

Does the receiver require regulated, clean DC power
and does the power supply put out clean, regulated
DC power? If everything jives, it will work.

TDD

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:22:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will

Does the receiver require regulated, clean DC power

Seems reasonable to assume ...

and does the power supply put out clean, regulated
DC power?

Assume so, for now ...

If everything jives, it will work.

Modern openers run on 12v DC?

The receiver was designed to run on 12v DC from the opener. It has
only 2 wires (same 2 as from opener to manual button).

Does that sufficiently muddy the waters?

W

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:22:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will
Does the receiver require regulated, clean DC power

Seems reasonable to assume ...

and does the power supply put out clean, regulated
DC power?

Assume so, for now ...

If everything jives, it will work.

Modern openers run on 12v DC?

The receiver was designed to run on 12v DC from the opener. It has
only 2 wires (same 2 as from opener to manual button).

Does that sufficiently muddy the waters?

W

It wouldn't be all that difficult to design a two
wire interface from the opener so it operates when
the 12 volt DC power is shorted. The trick is to
limit the current the supply can sink into a dead
short, then have a circuit that detects the voltage
drop and triggers the opener. The 78xx series voltage
regulators could be used in such a circuit without
much trouble at all. If I saw the circuit diagram of
the units involved or even installation instructions,
I could figure it out. I've had a lot of experience in
interfacing disparate systems. "Experience" means
that someone has burned up more equipment than anyone
else. "Stupid or dangerous" means that you haven't
learned from your experiences. Some folks think I'm
dangerous for some odd reason. Perhaps it's all that
charred equipment?

TDD

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:22:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
Exhibit A:
Ancient Stanley garage door opener from the 1980's, runs -only- on 120v AC.

Exhibit B:
Skylink universal gar. door remote kit. Receiver is designed to wire
into push-button circuit, runs on 12v DC 100mA.

Exhibit C:
Ancient Signalman converter, "for use with telephone".
Input: 117v AC 60Hz 6W, standard male-spade plug.
Output: 12v DC 300 mA

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will

Does the receiver require regulated, clean DC power
and does the power supply put out clean, regulated
DC power? If everything jives, it will work.

I think it unlikely it has to jibe. (Jive is something else.)

I doubt the receiver requires clean or regulated power, and anything
the "converter" puts out is probably fine, but you have to get the
positve and negative correct. Does the receiver say which is supposed
to be which? If so, you can use a volt-meter to see which is which on
the converter.

but I don't think you mean converter. A converter nomrally converts
DC current to AC. They often run off a car. But yours you say takes
a 110 volt input. Do you mean an adapter? Is it a little black cube
with prongs that plug into the wall? Or something like a laptop
power cord. 300ma is three times as much as you need to run
something that at most takes 100 ma. So they'll be a little wasted
power. I'm not sure how much. Not all of it because when there is no
power draw, it won't take as much AC as when there is powerdraw, and
when there is 100 ma dra, it won't take as much AC as if it was in
another situation putting out 300ma. You can sort of tell by how warm
the box gets. All of the warmth is waste heat, and all of the warmth
more than a smaller adapter would give is even more of a waste, but
you can use it and keep your eyes open for a smaller 12 volt DC
adapter.

TDD

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 17:52:04 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It wouldn't be all that difficult to design a two
wire interface from the opener so it operates when
the 12 volt DC power is shorted. The trick is to
limit the current the supply can sink into a dead
short, then have a circuit that detects the voltage
drop and triggers the opener. The 78xx series voltage
regulators could be used in such a circuit without
much trouble at all. If I saw the circuit diagram of
the units involved or even installation instructions,
I could figure it out.

All I could find is:

http://www.skylinkhome.com/docs/manu...ual_070207.pdf

As near as I can tell, the damnable thang was designed to
run off the 12v DC from the modern openers. But my old
Stanley runs -only- on it's own 120v AC.

Remember, the receiver has only 2 wires for operation.

I've had a lot of experience in
interfacing disparate systems. "Experience" means
that someone has burned up more equipment than anyone
else. "Stupid or dangerous" means that you haven't
learned from your experiences. Some folks think I'm
dangerous for some odd reason. Perhaps it's all that
charred equipment?

What's a little carbon, here and there? Nobig deal! :-)

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:06:28 -0400, mm wrote:

I think it unlikely it has to jibe. (Jive is something else.)

I doubt the receiver requires clean or regulated power, and anything
the "converter" puts out is probably fine, but you have to get the
positve and negative correct. Does the receiver say which is supposed
to be which?

It sez polarity doesn't matter. Like for the push-button.

If so, you can use a volt-meter to see which is which on
the converter.

but I don't think you mean converter. A converter nomrally converts
DC current to AC. They often run off a car. But yours you say takes
a 110 volt input. Do you mean an adapter? Is it a little black cube
with prongs that plug into the wall?

Yes.

Or something like a laptop
power cord. 300ma is three times as much as you need to run
something that at most takes 100 ma. So they'll be a little wasted
power. I'm not sure how much. Not all of it because when there is no
power draw, it won't take as much AC as when there is powerdraw, and
when there is 100 ma dra, it won't take as much AC as if it was in
another situation putting out 300ma. You can sort of tell by how warm
the box gets. All of the warmth is waste heat, and all of the warmth
more than a smaller adapter would give is even more of a waste, but
you can use it and keep your eyes open for a smaller 12 volt DC
adapter.

I just don't see how I can wire it if it is designed to both run off
and connect a 12v DC circuit when the object circuit is 120v AC.

W

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 17:52:04 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

It wouldn't be all that difficult to design a two
wire interface from the opener so it operates when
the 12 volt DC power is shorted. The trick is to
limit the current the supply can sink into a dead
short, then have a circuit that detects the voltage
drop and triggers the opener. The 78xx series voltage
regulators could be used in such a circuit without
much trouble at all. If I saw the circuit diagram of
the units involved or even installation instructions,
I could figure it out.

All I could find is:

http://www.skylinkhome.com/docs/manu...ual_070207.pdf

As near as I can tell, the damnable thang was designed to
run off the 12v DC from the modern openers. But my old
Stanley runs -only- on it's own 120v AC.

Remember, the receiver has only 2 wires for operation.

I've had a lot of experience in
interfacing disparate systems. "Experience" means
that someone has burned up more equipment than anyone
else. "Stupid or dangerous" means that you haven't
learned from your experiences. Some folks think I'm
dangerous for some odd reason. Perhaps it's all that
charred equipment?

What's a little carbon, here and there? Nobig deal! :-)

I looked at the manual. You should have no problem.
The receiver runs off a 12 volt DC wall wart that
plugs into the side of it with a 3.5 mm plug and
the two wires are hooked up in parallel with the
existing opener button. The remote has batteries.
It's all right there in the instructions.

TDD

mm wrote:
On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:22:33 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
Exhibit A:
Ancient Stanley garage door opener from the 1980's, runs -only- on 120v AC.

Exhibit B:
Skylink universal gar. door remote kit. Receiver is designed to wire
into push-button circuit, runs on 12v DC 100mA.

Exhibit C:
Ancient Signalman converter, "for use with telephone".
Input: 117v AC 60Hz 6W, standard male-spade plug.
Output: 12v DC 300 mA

Would it at all be plausible to adapt C to enable B to work with A?
How to wire? Just plug the converter input into wall, splice output
to B receiver?

Thx,
Will
Does the receiver require regulated, clean DC power
and does the power supply put out clean, regulated
DC power? If everything jives, it will work.

I think it unlikely it has to jibe. (Jive is something else.)

I doubt the receiver requires clean or regulated power, and anything
the "converter" puts out is probably fine, but you have to get the
positve and negative correct. Does the receiver say which is supposed
to be which? If so, you can use a volt-meter to see which is which on
the converter.

but I don't think you mean converter. A converter nomrally converts
DC current to AC. They often run off a car. But yours you say takes
a 110 volt input. Do you mean an adapter? Is it a little black cube
with prongs that plug into the wall? Or something like a laptop
power cord. 300ma is three times as much as you need to run
something that at most takes 100 ma. So they'll be a little wasted
power. I'm not sure how much. Not all of it because when there is no
power draw, it won't take as much AC as when there is powerdraw, and
when there is 100 ma dra, it won't take as much AC as if it was in
another situation putting out 300ma. You can sort of tell by how warm
the box gets. All of the warmth is waste heat, and all of the warmth
more than a smaller adapter would give is even more of a waste, but
you can use it and keep your eyes open for a smaller 12 volt DC
adapter.

He posted a link to the instructions, it's simple.

TDD

On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 02:52:42 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I looked at the manual. You should have no problem.
The receiver runs off a 12 volt DC wall wart that
plugs into the side of it with a 3.5 mm plug and
the two wires are hooked up in parallel with the
existing opener button. The remote has batteries.
It's all right there in the instructions.

It appears you are correct.

I re-visited the instructions. Reference to the wall
wart was buried in the section for Multi-Function
Wall Console (which I don't have), but applies to
the single button install as well.

Now, if I can just find a 3.5 mm plug ...

Would you expect a single wall-wart to be adequate
for 2 receivers (I got 2 openers)?

Much Thanks,
Will

Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote:
On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 02:52:42 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote:

I looked at the manual. You should have no problem.
The receiver runs off a 12 volt DC wall wart that
plugs into the side of it with a 3.5 mm plug and
the two wires are hooked up in parallel with the
existing opener button. The remote has batteries.
It's all right there in the instructions.

It appears you are correct.

I re-visited the instructions. Reference to the wall
wart was buried in the section for Multi-Function
Wall Console (which I don't have), but applies to
the single button install as well.

Now, if I can just find a 3.5 mm plug ...

Would you expect a single wall-wart to be adequate
for 2 receivers (I got 2 openers)?

Much Thanks,
Will

The plugs are readily available at Radio Shack
or any electronic supply house. I have a pile
of them because I install video surveillance
systems among other things. The center pin is
usually the (+) for the DC voltage power.

TDD

On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:11:12 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 21:44:22 -0500, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:06:28 -0400, mm wrote:

I think it unlikely it has to jibe. (Jive is something else.)

I doubt the receiver requires clean or regulated power, and anything
the "converter" puts out is probably fine, but you have to get the
positve and negative correct. Does the receiver say which is supposed
to be which?

It sez polarity doesn't matter. Like for the push-button.

It couldn't say that. There's a big difference btween a power supply
and a switch.
IF the unit has a bridge rectifier on the input it could run either
plarity OR AC. Otherwize, power polarity WILL matter. Switch polarity
will not if it is either relay or MosFet switched. It will if it is
darlington switched (or SCR)

On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 00:23:18 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:11:12 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 21:44:22 -0500, Wilfred Xavier Pickles
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:06:28 -0400, mm wrote:

I think it unlikely it has to jibe. (Jive is something else.)

I doubt the receiver requires clean or regulated power, and anything
the "converter" puts out is probably fine, but you have to get the
positve and negative correct. Does the receiver say which is supposed
to be which?

It sez polarity doesn't matter. Like for the push-button.

It couldn't say that. There's a big difference btween a power supply
and a switch.
IF the unit has a bridge rectifier on the input it could run either
plarity OR AC.

But he said about the receiver "runs on 12v DC 100mA." I presume
that's from the label. If they went to the trouble to put in a bridge
rectifier, the label would say that it could run on AC also.

How many devices start off with a bridge rectifier and say that they
will run on either DC or AC? Other than a 110 volt tube radio, I've
never seen one.

Otherwize, power polarity WILL matter. Switch polarity
will not if it is either relay or MosFet switched. It will if it is
darlington switched (or SCR)