flourescent lamp fixture
 

My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. What does this mean? I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

flourescent lamp fixture
 

On Sat, 6 Jun 2009 20:24:51 -0400, "edee_em"
wrote:

My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. What does this mean? I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

Is this one fixture? How many lights in the fixture? Could
you describe the fixture?

Are you sure the fixture is properly grounded?

flourescent lamp fixture
 

wrote:
On Sat, 6 Jun 2009 20:24:51 -0400, "edee_em"
wrote:

My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. What does this mean? I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

Is this one fixture? How many lights in the fixture? Could
you describe the fixture?

Are you sure the fixture is properly grounded?

sound slike a really old fixture witha bad starter?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

flourescent lamp fixture
 

On Jun 6, 7:57*pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
wrote:
On Sat, 6 Jun 2009 20:24:51 -0400, "edee_em"
wrote:

My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. *I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. *I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. *What does this mean? *I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

* *Is this one fixture? *How many lights in the fixture? *Could
you describe the fixture? *

* *Are you sure the fixture is properly grounded?

sound slike a really old fixture witha bad starter?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

are these 2' or 4' fixtures, one-light or 2-light?? Some ballasts
require that both bulbs be good to light, others have two independent
ballasts, one for each bulb. Have you tried new bulbs?

flourescent lamp fixture
 

My old flourescent lights did the same thing so I changed the ballasts.
After that it works real smooth. The newer electronic ballasts are better
than the old technology, and ballasts do wear out after a while.

flourescent lamp fixture
 

On Jun 6, 7:24*pm, "edee_em" wrote:
My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. *I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. *I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. *What does this mean? *I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

And you never thought about The bulb, or, The starter.

flourescent lamp fixture
 

Thanks for the replies!

The fixture is 2' x 2', it has two u-shaped tubes. I see one ballast but
nothing resembling a "starter". I would say the fixture is about 20 years
old. I tried fresh bulbs but the same thing happened.

Ed

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Jun 6, 7:57 pm, Nate Nagel wrote:
wrote:
On Sat, 6 Jun 2009 20:24:51 -0400, "edee_em"
wrote:

My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of
flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds
and
then came on full power. I turned them off to repeat the process and
they
would not come on full. What does this mean? I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

Is this one fixture? How many lights in the fixture? Could
you describe the fixture?

Are you sure the fixture is properly grounded?

sound slike a really old fixture witha bad starter?

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.http://members.cox.net/njnagel-
Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

are these 2' or 4' fixtures, one-light or 2-light?? Some ballasts
require that both bulbs be good to light, others have two independent
ballasts, one for each bulb. Have you tried new bulbs?

flourescent lamp fixture
 

In article , Edee em wrote:
Thanks for the replies!

The fixture is 2' x 2', it has two u-shaped tubes. I see one ballast but
nothing resembling a "starter". I would say the fixture is about 20 years
old. I tried fresh bulbs but the same thing happened.

If both bulbs were replaced with known good ones, and they come on
dim/flickery, and you know they are compatible with the ballast, chances
are the culprit is the ballast.

If you replace the ballast, make sure the new ballast and bulbs are
compatible with each other. There are several different wattages for
4-footers (including U-bent ones 2 feet long). The 32 watt 1-inch-dia.
and the 40 watt 1.5-inch-dia. bulbs are not electrically interchangeable.

Another thing I have noticed: 34 watt bulbs in my experience are more
likely to be "cranky" than other wattages of 4-footers. Also, some
ballasts for F40 are only rated for use with "true 40 watt" ones and could
overheat and/or have shortened life with 34 watt ones.

If you replace the ballast, best bet is to get a good 32 watt electronic
one such as Sylvania "Quicktronic" or the like from an electrical/lighting
supply shop.
And my favorite bulbs are ones with 835 or SPX35 color (3500 Kelvin, CRI
in the 80's - highest available without compromise of light output).

- Don Klipstein )

flourescent lamp fixture
 

On Jun 7, 1:41*pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In article , Edee em wrote:
Thanks for the replies!

The fixture is 2' x 2', it has two u-shaped tubes. *I see one ballast but
nothing resembling a "starter". *I would say the fixture is about 20 years
old. *I tried fresh bulbs but the same thing happened.

* If both bulbs were replaced with known good ones, and they come on
dim/flickery, and you know they are compatible with the ballast, chances
are the culprit is the ballast.

* If you replace the ballast, make sure the new ballast and bulbs are
compatible with each other. *There are several different wattages for
4-footers (including U-bent ones 2 feet long). *The 32 watt 1-inch-dia.
and the 40 watt 1.5-inch-dia. bulbs are not electrically interchangeable.

* Another thing I have noticed: *34 watt bulbs in my experience are more
likely to be "cranky" than other wattages of 4-footers. *Also, some
ballasts for F40 are only rated for use with "true 40 watt" ones and could
overheat and/or have shortened life with 34 watt ones.

* If you replace the ballast, best bet is to get a good 32 watt electronic
one such as Sylvania "Quicktronic" or the like from an electrical/lighting
supply shop.
* And my favorite bulbs are ones with 835 or SPX35 color (3500 Kelvin, CRI
in the 80's - highest available without compromise of light output).

*- Don Klipstein )

Does using an electronic ballast require the use of different tubes
than using old fashioned 'regular' ballasts in good condition?
Reason to ask is that I have a batch of used fluorescent fixtures, in
excellent condition except for a few scratches, from renovations at a
school. (They would have been dumped if had not taken them).
Most, but not all of the tubes were missing/broken so replaced with
same type, which for these fixtures equipped with electonic ballasts,
are the thinner and IIRC are T10 type.
But experimentally the older fatter 34 or 40 watt tubes will also
work; but might overheat the 'electronic' ballasts????
Any advice welcome. TIA
terry

flourescent lamp fixture
 

On Sun, 7 Jun 2009 06:58:43 -0400, "Edee em"
wrote:

Thanks for the replies!

The fixture is 2' x 2', it has two u-shaped tubes. I see one ballast but
nothing resembling a "starter". I would say the fixture is about 20 years
old. I tried fresh bulbs but the same thing happened.

Ed

"hr(bob) " wrote in message

I would start by checking to make sure the fixture is properly
grounded. A poor ground can cause problems with the function of these
fixtures. Also I have found that many of that type of fixture suffers
contact problems so you may need to clean or replace the sockets.

As already noted a bad lamp can prevent the second lamp from
functioning in some fixtures.

Do the lamps have dark areas at the ends? Do you know how
old the lamps are?

flourescent lamp fixture
 

In ,
stan wrote:

On Jun 7, 1:41*pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:

SNIP to here
* If you replace the ballast, make sure the new ballast and bulbs are
compatible with each other. *There are several different wattages for
4-footers (including U-bent ones 2 feet long). *The 32 watt 1-inch-dia.
and the 40 watt 1.5-inch-dia. bulbs are not electrically interchangeable.

SNIP

Does using an electronic ballast require the use of different tubes
than using old fashioned 'regular' ballasts in good condition?
Reason to ask is that I have a batch of used fluorescent fixtures, in
excellent condition except for a few scratches, from renovations at a
school. (They would have been dumped if had not taken them).
Most, but not all of the tubes were missing/broken so replaced with
same type, which for these fixtures equipped with electonic ballasts,
are the thinner and IIRC are T10 type.

The thinner ones usually used with electronic ballasts are T8.

But experimentally the older fatter 34 or 40 watt tubes will also
work; but might overheat the 'electronic' ballasts????

Check the ballasts - see if they are rated for both 17 and 32 watt
"lamps". (In which case they will be T8.)

If so, then the ballasts are safe to use with T12 40 and 34 watt lamps -
since such T12 lamps have voltage drop between that of 32 and 17 watt T8
lamps.

However, since 40 and 34 watt T12 lamps/bulbs want more current than T8
ones get, the T12's will be underpowered.
When underpowered, "true 40 watt" lamps/bulbs *usually* work OK but
there is a slight chance they will "act cranky" or have shortened life.
34 watt ones may more easily "act cranky" or have shortened life.

One more thing to watch for - using lamps that the ballast is not rated
to work with is "use of electrical equipment other than as directed".
Even when such misuse is safe, your fire insurance company might give you
grief if the misused electrical equipment starts a fire.

If the ballast is rated to run 32 watt lamps but not 17 watt ones, it
will probably still be safe with 40 and 34 watt ones - but this is *not
guaranteed*.

- Don Klipstein )

flourescent lamp fixture
 

In , I Don Klipstein wrote in part:

If you replace the ballast, best bet is to get a good 32 watt electronic
one such as Sylvania "Quicktronic" or the like from an electrical/lighting
supply shop.
And my favorite bulbs are ones with 835 or SPX35 color (3500 Kelvin, CRI
in the 80's - highest available without compromise of light output).

One thing I just remembered about replacing an old-fashioned ballast
with an electronic one:

With electronic ballasts, bulbs that are in the process of failing
tend to get very hot at one or both ends. I have known this to overheat
the "sockets"/"lampholders"/"tombstones" if those were not made to take
the heat from ends of bulbs in the process of croaking while running on
an electronic ballast.

This "end heating" sometimes gets even worse still when the last
remaining working bulb running on an electronic ballast is singing its
swan song.

If you replace the ballast (rather than the whole fixture), you probably
want to get sockets / lampholders made for or pulled from a fixture that
has an electronic ballast.

- Don Klipstein )

flourescent lamp fixture
 

I don't understand your post. Is it a comment on the simple things I should
have checked or is it a "poke" at my signature? In any case, I did mention
bulbs and the starter in my second post on the thread. Please clarify if
I've missed something.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Jun 6, 7:24 pm, "edee_em" wrote:
My lights are not coming on full power. I guess they are kind of
flickering,
trying to turn on but they don't. I just went upstairs (it's a kitchen
"Floriday" fixture) to try them and they flickered for about 3 seconds and
then came on full power. I turned them off to repeat the process and they
would not come on full. What does this mean? I checked visible wire
connections and they are good.

Thanks

edee em
I know the truth is out there but I like to stay in...

And you never thought about The bulb, or, The starter.