I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

"Ray K" wrote in message
...
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a propane
torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's. The solder
wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969 had a much
higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the tip of the blue
flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

The common old solder, which was 50/50 melted around 375 degrees F. The
silver-safe solder we use now melt at higher temperatures, not lower than
that. However, some plumbers, especially the boiler men, used 95/5 back in
the day, and some still do. It melts at higher temperature as well. I'm
guessing your problem is that there is some water in the pipe yet though.
It only takes a few drops for the steam to cause a rapid cooling effect.

Try applying flux then apply some solder in the joint This usually works
"Ray K" wrote in message
...
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a propane
torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's. The solder
wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969 had a much
higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the tip of the blue
flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

In article , "Lefty" wrote:

The common old solder, which was 50/50 melted around 375 degrees F. The
silver-safe solder we use now melt at higher temperatures, not lower than
that. However, some plumbers, especially the boiler men, used 95/5 back in
the day, and some still do. It melts at higher temperature as well. I'm
guessing your problem is that there is some water in the pipe yet though.
It only takes a few drops for the steam to cause a rapid cooling effect.

In article , Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today.

No. Actually, the reverse is true: the no-lead formulas in use today have a
higher melting point than any of the leaded solders that were in common use in
the 60s.

[...]

All the water was drained from the pipe

I suspect otherwise...

, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

And I'll bet that 6 feet is full of water.

On May 27, 1:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

As others have said, most likely the solder used in 1969 had a lower
melting point than the stuff you can get now. There may be a problem
with residual water in the pipe. But also, I have had it happen where
I heated the pipe, melted the solder, then for some reason it still
won't easily come apart, it is stuck/hung up on something. The
finally I yank on it hard enough and it comes apart, splashing hot
solder around. Ouch!

So if you are sure the water is out, try heating and disassembling
with firm, controlled pressure. If that doesn't work, the next best
option may be to just cut the pipe (pipe cutter or hacksaw) and and
repair it later with a straight connector. Is there something wrong
with the elbow, or do you just need to get the pipe loose? The cut/
repair option may in fact be easier than trying to disassemble the
elbow. -- H

Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

Just cut the old out. Then you'll see how much water was really left in
there absorbing all your heat. Then when you get it drained for real,
you can proceed with the repair.

Ray K wrote:

I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray


Quite likely the solder and the copper over time have created
intermetallic compounds which have a significantly higher melting
temperature than the original solder.

That's why you sometimes hear a squeeking noise like a dry door hinge
when you've heated an elbowed joint plenty hot enough and still have to
twist it back and forth while pulling on it to work it off a pipe end.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

In article , "Lefty"
wrote:

The common old solder, which was 50/50 melted around 375 degrees F.

You're thinking of 60/40. The melting point of 50/50 is 421 deg F.

Well, you never know. Solder a pipe together, and leave it
for 30 or 40 years. Very possible.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jeff_wisnia" wrote in
message
unications...


Quite likely the solder and the copper over time have
created
intermetallic compounds which have a significantly higher
melting
temperature than the original solder.

That's why you sometimes hear a squeeking noise like a dry
door hinge
when you've heated an elbowed joint plenty hot enough and
still have to
twist it back and forth while pulling on it to work it off a
pipe end.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On May 27, 2:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Let's back up here a bit. What are you tying to do? People are
addressing this as a matter of technique, but another approach might
work better for you.

Check out Sharkbite fittings from Cash Acme. You cut the copper,
deburr it and then simply press the fitting onto the copper pipe.
Figure six or eight bucks per fitting and you won't need a torch at
all.

R

On May 27, 1:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

MAP gas makes life easy.

"jeff_wisnia" wrote in message
unications...
Ray K wrote:

I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray


Quite likely the solder and the copper over time have created
intermetallic compounds which have a significantly higher melting
temperature than the original solder.

That's why you sometimes hear a squeeking noise like a dry door hinge when
you've heated an elbowed joint plenty hot enough and still have to twist
it back and forth while pulling on it to work it off a pipe end.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

You have received quite a bit of good advice. Jeff mentioned a very common
problem. Copper actually slowly dissolves in molten solder and as it does it
raises the melting point of the alloy. Higher temperatures cause more
alloying and still higher melting points. The best way to unsolder pipe is
to heat just to the melting point and then quickly jar the pieces apart.
Soldered plumbing rarely just slips apart easily and heating it more often
does not help. Cutting apart is nearly always easier.

Don Young

"Don & Lucille" wrote in message
...
Try applying flux then apply some solder in the joint This usually works
"Ray K" wrote in message
...
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969 had
a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the tip of
the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides of the
elbow.

Adding flux and solder helps to take a joint apart?

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Don & Lucille" wrote in message
...
Try applying flux then apply some solder in the joint This usually works
"Ray K" wrote in message
...
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969 had
a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the tip of
the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides of the
elbow.

Adding flux and solder helps to take a joint apart?


I believe doing this might increase the heat transfer and make it easier
to melt the old solder.

EJ in NJ

wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 13:51:35 -0700 (PDT), Heathcliff
wrote:

On May 27, 1:14 pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray
As others have said, most likely the solder used in 1969 had a lower
melting point than the stuff you can get now. There may be a problem
with residual water in the pipe. But also, I have had it happen where
I heated the pipe, melted the solder, then for some reason it still
won't easily come apart, it is stuck/hung up on something. The
finally I yank on it hard enough and it comes apart, splashing hot
solder around. Ouch!

So if you are sure the water is out, try heating and disassembling
with firm, controlled pressure. If that doesn't work, the next best
option may be to just cut the pipe (pipe cutter or hacksaw) and and
repair it later with a straight connector. Is there something wrong
with the elbow, or do you just need to get the pipe loose? The cut/
repair option may in fact be easier than trying to disassemble the
elbow. -- H

I too agree there is still water in the pipe. If it's on suspended
hangers, try lifting that section to drain it, and if at all possible,
lift that elbow and then heat it. Otherwise as others said, cut the 6
foot piece 4 or more inches back. If the part into the valve is
screwed in, unscrew it. Otherwise after the cut and complete
draining, you should be able to unsolder that elbow, or from the
valve. Then you;ll need a coupler and piece of pipe the size you cut
out.

I too am wondering the reason to remove the elbow.

The 4" output of the elbow feeds a utility faucet from the top. There's
also a union at the faucet. When I replaced the faucet, I couldn't stop
a drip at the union. Problem is that the pipe from the elbow isn't
perfectly vertical, so there's a small misalignment of a couple of
degrees. That's what I'm trying to resolve.

I unscrewed the union a few times and reassembled it. Now there isn't
any more drip, but this afternoon, a plumber is coming to replace the
water heater. So I'll have him fix the alignment problem, too.

To the rest of the responders, I'll have to go along with you that there
is still enough water in the long pipe to keep the elbow from heating
enough. It will be interesting to see how the plumber handles it. He'll
be using an acetylene torch, so maybe he can "bully" the elbow apart.


Instead of the $20 you paid for the torch, you should have spent $30
to $35 for a TURBO torch. They get a lot hotter.

I wasn't aware of it, or that I would have a problem using propane.

LM

On May 27, 2:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

Most common problem is holding the torch too close to the work.

Jimmie

On May 27, 7:15*pm, RicodJour wrote:
On May 27, 2:14*pm, Ray K wrote:

I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Let's back up here a bit. *What are you tying to do? *People are
addressing this as a matter of technique, but another approach might
work better for you.

Check out Sharkbite fittings from Cash Acme. *You cut the copper,
deburr it and then simply press the fitting onto the copper pipe.
Figure six or eight bucks per fitting and you won't need a torch at
all.

R

I just tried these for the first time. They are great for mods and
small projects but could be expensive for plumbing the whole house.

Jimmie

On May 28, 5:16*am, wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 13:51:35 -0700 (PDT), Heathcliff





wrote:
On May 27, 1:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's..
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

As others have said, most likely the solder used in 1969 had a lower
melting point than the stuff you can get now. *There may be a problem
with residual water in the pipe. *But also, I have had it happen where
I heated the pipe, melted the solder, then for some reason it still
won't easily come apart, it is stuck/hung up on something. *The
finally I yank on it hard enough and it comes apart, splashing hot
solder around. *Ouch!

So if you are sure the water is out, try heating and disassembling
with firm, controlled pressure. *If that doesn't work, the next best
option may be to just cut the pipe (pipe cutter or hacksaw) and and
repair it later with a straight connector. *Is there something wrong
with the elbow, or do you just need to get the pipe loose? *The cut/
repair option may in fact be easier than trying to disassemble the
elbow. -- H

I too agree there is still water in the pipe. *If it's on suspended
hangers, try lifting that section to drain it, and if at all possible,
lift that elbow and then heat it. *Otherwise as others said, cut the 6
foot piece 4 or more inches back. *If the part into the valve is
screwed in, unscrew it. *Otherwise after the cut and complete
draining, you should be able to unsolder that elbow, or from the
valve. *Then you;ll need a coupler and piece of pipe the size you cut
out.

I too am wondering the reason to remove the elbow.

Instead of the $20 you paid for the torch, you should have spent $30
to $35 for a TURBO torch. *They get a lot hotter.

LM- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The best torch I have used was a craft torch my wife got for making
glass beads.

Jimmie

On May 27, 2:14*pm, Ray K wrote:
I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

like people are saying, just add more heat. mapp gas.

On May 29, 8:52*pm, JIMMIE wrote:
On May 27, 2:14*pm, Ray K wrote:





I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray

Most common problem *is holding the torch too close to the work.

Jimmie- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Start a nail in a board or clamp it in a vice then heat the nail with
your torch until it glows then use different positions on the flame to
see where the hotest and coolest portions of the flame are. Play
around with it a few minutes and you will lean to control the
temperature of the torch.

Jimmie

RicodJour wrote:

Check out Sharkbite fittings from Cash Acme. You cut the copper,
deburr it and then simply press the fitting onto the copper pipe.
Figure six or eight bucks per fitting and you won't need a torch at
all.


I just looked at the video.

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite.php

The system is awesome. Later this week when I have the plumbing
inspector here to check my new water heater, I'll ask him about Shardbite.

Thanks for the lead.

Ray

RicodJour wrote:

Check out Sharkbite fittings from Cash Acme. You cut the copper,
deburr it and then simply press the fitting onto the copper pipe.
Figure six or eight bucks per fitting and you won't need a torch at
all.


I just looked at the video.

http://www.cashacme.com/prod_sharkbite.php

The system is awesome. But when you check the prices, you'll see the
problem: They force you to buy bags containing a lot more than you might
need. For example, while one 1/2" x 1/2" straight coupling is $8.68, you
must buy a bag of 12, which works out to $106.32. Perhaps some local
plumbing supply houses sell smaller quantities.

Later this week when I have the plumbing inspector here to check my new
water heater, I'll ask him about Shardbite.

Thanks for the lead.

Ray

Followup:

I had a plumber over to install a water heater. Even with his acetylene
torch, he had trouble disassembling the joint, but finally succeeded.

He shortened the pipe 3/16" so there was perfect alignment with the
union on top of the faucet. Tightened it, and guess what: there was
still the same tiny dripping. So my theory about misalignment being the
problem turned out to be wrong.

He retightened it as much as he dared, but the lead persisted. He solved
the problem by applying pipe dope around the leaky threads.

Thanks to all for you informative comments.

Ray

Followup:

I had a plumber over to install a water heater. Even with his acetylene
torch, he had trouble disassembling the joint, but finally succeeded.

He shortened the pipe 3/16" so there was perfect alignment with the
union on top of the faucet. Tightened it, and guess what: there was
still the same tiny dripping. So my theory about misalignment being the
problem turned out to be wrong.

He retightened it as much as he dared, but the leak persisted. He solved
the problem by applying pipe dope around the leaky threads.

Thanks to all for you informative comments.

Ray

On Wed, 27 May 2009 14:14:11 -0400, Ray K
wrote:

I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray


Got to be absolutely sure there is no water in that pipe. Carefully
check your torch head for any solder debris. Use 150 grit strip to
clean the area, brush on a little flux and heat. If you still can not
get it to melt, cut the fitting out with a hack saw or Dremmel being
careful not to damage the pipes.

Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 27 May 2009 14:14:11 -0400, Ray K
wrote:

I tried disassembling a 1/2" copper elbow from water pipes, using a
propane torch that comes in a $20 Worthington plumbing kit from Lowe's.
The solder wouldn't melt. I'm wondering if the solder used around 1969
had a much higher melting point than what's used today. I did keep the
tip of the blue flame on the elbow, and I tried heating around all sides
of the elbow.

The house is part of a development of 600 or so houses, so I doubt the
builder authorized some expensive, high temperature silver solder.

All the water was drained from the pipe, and the end of the pipe that
supplies cold water to the utility tub faucet was disconnected from the
faucet. The pipe from the faucet to the elbow is 4". The other pipe into
the elbow is about 6 feet long.

Thanks,

Ray


Got to be absolutely sure there is no water in that pipe. Carefully
check your torch head for any solder debris. Use 150 grit strip to
clean the area, brush on a little flux and heat. If you still can not
get it to melt, cut the fitting out with a hack saw or Dremmel being
careful not to damage the pipes.

The torch head was brand new. Your suggestion for applying flux is an
excellent one I hadn't thought of. I noticed that when the plumber was
having trouble soldering a brand new joint on the water heater, even
with his hot acetylene torch, he added extra flux.

He took care of my original problem of a slow leak at one of the unions
feeding the utility-tub faucet by applying pipe dope on the threads.