I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing something
basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

On May 25, 11:36*am, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. *It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. *Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. *Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. *After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. *So I tried again. *The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. *So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. *I removed it and it seems
ok. *So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. *Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. *It appears to work
fine. *When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. *I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. *So, I could be missing something
basic here. *The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. *Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. *Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. *So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is
flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck
and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas
when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out
of the spark plug hole.

Plug is out and is not oily or wet. Also, the blade does not turn
either. I should have mentioned that. You can not turn the blade,
pull the cord when fully assembled, or manually turn the flywheel or
cup that attaches it to the crankshaft.

The oil is just above the fill line. So, it is about time to add more
oil, but the oil is not low (as in not below the fill line).

Remove the spark plug. See if you can turn the engine with the
blade, you have much more leverage there. Make sure you do have
the engine stop disengaged. If the motor is locked up at this
point, it may have a broken crank or threw the rod or its cap.
Time to get another.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Door" wrote in message
...
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what
happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually
the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I
realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not
pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as
usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I
grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come
out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up
since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope
handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it
seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel
(both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I
checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to
work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake
disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel
cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not
turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing
something
basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could
the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note
that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts
at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling
well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So
it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

On May 25, 12:44*pm, Hipupchuck wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 25, 11:36 am, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. *It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. *Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. *Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. *After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. *So I tried again. *The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. *So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. *I removed it and it seems
ok. *So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. *Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. *It appears to work
fine. *When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. *I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. *So, I could be missing something
basic here. *The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. *Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. *Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. *So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is
flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck
and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas
when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out
of the spark plug hole.

He already said he tried it with the plug out and it was still locked.
What part of that didn't you understand?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it butt head, he didnt try pulling the blade. What part of
hydrolock do you comprehend, non I see.

On May 25, 2:29*pm, wrote:
Plug is out and is not oily or wet. *Also, the blade does not turn
either. *I should have mentioned that. *You can not turn the blade,
pull the cord when fully assembled, or manually turn the flywheel or
cup that attaches it to the crankshaft.

The oil is just above the fill line. *So, it is about time to add more
oil, but the oil is not low (as in not below the fill line).

If oil isnt overfull, and you cant move anything, something seized or
broke, it may not be trashed but will be work to figure it out.

Door wrote:


I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

Without ignition, I don't know what could have happened inside to keep
the crankshaft from moving either way.

I'd look for external jamming. Ignition? Drive mechanism for the
wheels? If I still couldn't find a problem, I'd start removing the brake.

On Mon, 25 May 2009 09:36:27 -0700 (PDT), Door
wrote:

I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing something
basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door
Had the same problem last week on a friend's Honda mower. He hadn't
washed out the deck in 10 years, and the built-up grass deposits had
dried out over the winter and flaked loose, jamming the blade tight in
the deck. Tipped it over, pulled out hald a bushel of hard dried grass
and it started furst pull.

On Mon, 25 May 2009 12:49:48 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote:

On May 25, 12:44Â*pm, Hipupchuck wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 25, 11:36 am, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. Â*It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Â*Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Â*Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. Â*After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. Â*So I tried again. Â*The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. Â*So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. Â*I removed it and it seems
ok. Â*So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Â*Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. Â*It appears to work
fine. Â*When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. Â*I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. Â*So, I could be missing something
basic here. Â*The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Â*Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Â*Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. Â*So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is
flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck
and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas
when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out
of the spark plug hole.

He already said he tried it with the plug out and it was still locked.
What part of that didn't you understand?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it butt head, he didnt try pulling the blade. What part of
hydrolock do you comprehend, non I see.
Hydrolock cannot exist with the plug out.

On Mon, 25 May 2009 12:53:12 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote:

On May 25, 2:29Â*pm, wrote:
Plug is out and is not oily or wet. Â*Also, the blade does not turn
either. Â*I should have mentioned that. Â*You can not turn the blade,
pull the cord when fully assembled, or manually turn the flywheel or
cup that attaches it to the crankshaft.

The oil is just above the fill line. Â*So, it is about time to add more
oil, but the oil is not low (as in not below the fill line).

If oil isnt overfull, and you cant move anything, something seized or
broke, it may not be trashed but will be work to figure it out.
IF the blade is not jammed, or the blade brake is not stuck, sqirting
a good penetrant in the plug hole might free it up. I've had badly
seized engines (from rust on the rings) come free with a mixture of
deisel fuel and oil of wintergreen. 1 ounce of oil of wintergreen from
your local compounding pharmaist in 1 gallon of deisel will free up a
lot of small engines. The stuff is poisonous so you have to sign for
it.

wrote:

IF the blade is not jammed, or the blade brake is not stuck, sqirting
a good penetrant in the plug hole might free it up. I've had badly
seized engines (from rust on the rings) come free with a mixture of
deisel fuel and oil of wintergreen. 1 ounce of oil of wintergreen from
your local compounding pharmaist in 1 gallon of deisel will free up a
lot of small engines. The stuff is poisonous so you have to sign for
it.

I wonder if the diesel fuel would have worked as well alone.

CRC penetrating oil and Marvel Mystery Oil used to have a little
wintergreen for fragrance. It seems to me that if wintergreen freed
rusty parts, most penetrating oils would have substantial amounts.

The evidence seems anecdotal. One man swears by it because he tried two
penetrating oils on a rusty fastener and it didn't come loose, but it
came loose after he applied wintergreen. Who's to say it wasn't the
oils he applied earlier? Or maybe the wintergreen smell gave him strength!

I wonder if it has ever been tested objectively, such as 20 similarly
rusty lugnuts, 10 treated with wintergreen and 10 with Liquid Wrench,
then unfastened with a torque wrench.

Plants produce it as an insecticide, and the odor attracts predatory
insects to eat the pests. The typical fatal dose for adults is .5 g/kg.
That would be 50g, or 8 teaspoons, for a 100 kg man. The minimum
lethal dose for children is .17 g/kg, or less than a teaspoon for a 20
kg child.

I'd want to take one last look at the brake (strap around
the flywheel). To be certain sure. If the brake is
releasing, and the mower is still locked up, then it's
likely not worth fixing.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DanG" wrote in message
...
Remove the spark plug. See if you can turn the engine with
the
blade, you have much more leverage there. Make sure you do
have
the engine stop disengaged. If the motor is locked up at
this
point, it may have a broken crank or threw the rod or its
cap.
Time to get another.

--

Copied text:
"After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not
pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as
usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I
grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come
out.
Turns out it won't budge."

Sure looks to me like the engine locked up between the
second and third pulls. If someone else killed the engine,
it woulda been locked up before the first pull, you think?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Hipupchuck" wrote in message
...

Someone else may have run it after you put it away and blew
the engine.

"Door" wrote in message
...
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Is the blade tight?


Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

Have you checked to see if the ignition coil is out of adjustment and jammed
against the flywheel?


I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing something
basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Copied text:
"After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not
pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out

Does it really make much differance in how hard the rope is pulled on the
small gas engines ? I have a 5 kw generator and it will take two or 3 pulls
to start every time. If I just pull it slow or as hard as I can. Maybe the
hard pulls went out when the easy start/low compression came out.

Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Copied text:
"After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not
pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out

Does it really make much differance in how hard the rope is pulled on the
small gas engines ? I have a 5 kw generator and it will take two or 3 pulls
to start every time. If I just pull it slow or as hard as I can. Maybe the
hard pulls went out when the easy start/low compression came out.




With some engines a hard pull works better. Ignition and carburetion
may work better with a hard pull.

I don't think anyone has suggested this yet but please disconect the spark
plug before trying to turn the motor with the blade. You will need your
fingers for the future.
This is not a fix for your problem, but a safety issue.




"Ulysses" wrote in message
...

"Door" wrote in message
...
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. So I tried again. The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Is the blade tight?


Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. I removed it and it seems
ok. So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. It appears to work
fine. When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

Have you checked to see if the ignition coil is out of adjustment and
jammed
against the flywheel?


I am very new to engine repairs. So, I could be missing something
basic here. The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

Some very good ideas.

LM, thanks for the good post. I'm looking forward to trying this when
I get a chance in the next couple days.

There are no lights/battery/generator, so that part is ruled out.

On May 26, 11:25 am, "Ulysses" wrote:
Is the blade tight?
The blade is definitely tight.
Have you checked to see if the ignition coil is out of adjustment and jammed
against the flywheel?
I haven't. Definitely worth checking. Thanks.

Also, no one else ran the mower since I have. No one but me has
access to the power equipment.

I can remove the flywheel brake and see if that helps. I ruled the
brake out because it is a pad brake (not a strap brake) and I can see
the pad move completely away from the flywheel. If I end up needing
to remove the flywheel itself at some point, I'll need to get a
flywheel puller and holder. They don't seem to carry those at the
local home & garden store.

Also take a good look at the shaft above the blade and make sure there is no
cord, old string, etc tangled up on it.

--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org

Sure looks to me like the engine locked up between the
second and third pulls. If someone else killed the engine,
it woulda been locked up before the first pull, you think?

Agreed.

Remove the engine brake completely
Keep spark plug out
Carefully check to be sure that there is nothing packed
under or
around the blade. Clean well around crankshaft. Squirt
some
penetrating oil at base of crankshaft (where it exits engine
block)

Now, Try to turn blade

CY: That's a thought. Locked up where the crank shaft comes
out. My best guess is the engine brake isn't really
releasing.

Note: Does this mower have a built in generator (for lights
or
charging battery if it has one)? If there is a generator
coil, one
winding may have come loose and bound up against flywheel.
Check for
that if there is a generator. (I had that happen once).

CY: That musta been some years ago. I've not seen generator
except on riding mowers. And the OP did say it was pull
start.

If it still dont turn, the engine is siezed. Could be the
cylinder
wall was so dry that just pulling it, caused a piston ring
to score
the cylinder wall.

CY: He did say the oil was slightly overfull. But that
doesn't prevent engine siezing. Especially if the oil hadn't
been changed in a long time.


If this happened, flip the engine upsidedown for a few
seconds to get
crankcase oil into lower part of cylinder. Then when it's
upright
again, pour some kerosene (or diesel fuel) and motor oil
mixed half an
half into the cylinder. Leave it sit for a few hours, and
try to turn
blade again. Use a wooden mallet if needed against the rear
(dull
side) of the blade, and tap it.

CY: That's a thought. Might be piston siezed.

If none of this works, remove the cylinder head. Take a
block of wood
like a 8 inch piece of 2x2 or chunk of tree branch. Place
wood
against top of piston and whack the wood with a hammer. If
there is a
bit of scoring on the cyl wall, this should free it up.
Otherwise you
likely have a bent or broken connecting rod, crankshaft, or
valve. If
thats the case, it's time to tear down the whole engine.

CY: Or, at that point, to pitch in the scrap and go find
another mower.

I know a guy who drained the engine oil from a mower in
fall, and
started it in spring without oil. The piston siezed against
the cyl
wall. It actually peeled up a small bit of the aluminum cyl
wall. He
had me look at it. I removed the head and found this. I
poured oil
all around the piston, let it sit, and whacked the piston
with wood
block and hammer. It came loose. With the piston all the
way down, I
used some emery paper and carefully smoothed out the score
in the
cylinder wall. Then I spun the engine with the blade until
it moved
freely.

I put on a new head gasket, put the head back on, and it
fired right
up. However, it did smoke quite a bit from oil leaking past
rings at
that gouge in the cyl wall. He bought a new mower a few
weeks later
and gave me that old one. I used that old mower for
probably 10 years
after. The smoke ceased to be real bad after the rings
smoothed out
that gouge. I also added some of that STP oil treatment to
the oil to
help lubricate better.

CY: I'm the same way. I'll spend an hour or two trying to
restore an old mower, rather than pitch it and buy a new
one.

With compression release, now days. It's supposed to make it
easier to pull the engine. I'm sure it does. Two or three
pulls to start, that's about the right number. My seldom
used generator, I've had to spray some ether on the paper
air filter to get it going. Runs for a few seconds, and then
dies. Repeat, until it runs.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
...


Does it really make much differance in how hard the rope is
pulled on the
small gas engines ? I have a 5 kw generator and it will
take two or 3 pulls
to start every time. If I just pull it slow or as hard as I
can. Maybe the
hard pulls went out when the easy start/low compression came
out.

On Tue, 26 May 2009 03:21:21 -0400, E Z Peaces
wrote:

wrote:

IF the blade is not jammed, or the blade brake is not stuck, sqirting
a good penetrant in the plug hole might free it up. I've had badly
seized engines (from rust on the rings) come free with a mixture of
deisel fuel and oil of wintergreen. 1 ounce of oil of wintergreen from
your local compounding pharmaist in 1 gallon of deisel will free up a
lot of small engines. The stuff is poisonous so you have to sign for
it.

I wonder if the diesel fuel would have worked as well alone.
no, we tried it

CRC penetrating oil and Marvel Mystery Oil used to have a little
wintergreen for fragrance. It seems to me that if wintergreen freed
rusty parts, most penetrating oils would have substantial amounts.

Oil of wintergreen acts as a "creep agent" as a vapour but it is a
poison/health hazard, so will not be a large part of any consumer
product

The evidence seems anecdotal. One man swears by it because he tried two
penetrating oils on a rusty fastener and it didn't come loose, but it
came loose after he applied wintergreen. Who's to say it wasn't the
oils he applied earlier? Or maybe the wintergreen smell gave him strength!

I,ve used it on several seized agricultural engines and got them
loose. I've tried just deisel on other engines and didn,t get them
loose. Whether diesel was tried first or not, the mix with oow got
them loose. Generally takes about 3 days of sitting for a badly deized
engine

it appears to work particularly well in closed areas like engine
cyls. never tried it as a regular penetrating oil.

I wonder if it has ever been tested objectively, such as 20 similarly
rusty lugnuts, 10 treated with wintergreen and 10 with Liquid Wrench,
then unfastened with a torque wrench.

Plants produce it as an insecticide, and the odor attracts predatory
insects to eat the pests. The typical fatal dose for adults is .5 g/kg.
That would be 50g, or 8 teaspoons, for a 100 kg man. The minimum
lethal dose for children is .17 g/kg, or less than a teaspoon for a 20
kg child.

On May 25, 12:36*pm, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. *It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. *Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. *Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. *After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. *So I tried again. *The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. *So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. *I removed it and it seems
ok. *So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. *Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. *It appears to work
fine. *When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. *I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. *So, I could be missing something
basic here. *The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. *Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. *Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. *So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

That happened to me and when I pulled the sparkplug the tip of it was
missing. I followed up by pulling the head and found the tip was
wedged between the piston and cylinder wall. Figuring I had nothing to
lose at tjis ponit I placed a block of wood against the piston and hit
it with a hammer. This drove the piston down just enough for the tip
of the sparkplug to free up. I got 4 or 5 more years use out of that
engine. I would pull the head and take a look.

Jimmie

On May 25, 10:08*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 25 May 2009 12:49:48 -0700 (PDT), ransley





wrote:
On May 25, 12:44*pm, Hipupchuck wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 25, 11:36 am, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. *It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. *Here is what happened and
what I know so far.

I took out the mower for the first time this season. *Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. *After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. *So I tried again. *The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. *So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.

I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.

Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. *I removed it and it seems
ok. *So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. *Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. *It appears to work
fine. *When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages..
However the flywheel will not turn. *I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.

I am very new to engine repairs. *So, I could be missing something
basic here. *The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. *Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. *Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. *So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.

Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?

Thanks,
Door

Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is
flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck
and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas
when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out
of the spark plug hole.

He already said he tried it with the plug out and it was still locked.
What part of that didn't you understand?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it butt head, he didnt try pulling the blade. What part of
hydrolock do you comprehend, non I see.

*Hydrolock cannot exist with the plug out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sure it can, fill the crankcase.

On May 26, 7:39*am, Hipupchuck wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 25, 12:44 pm, Hipupchuck wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 25, 11:36 am, Door wrote:
I have a Ariens mower with a Briggs & Stratton Intek mower. *It
appears that the crankshaft will not turn. *Here is what happened and
what I know so far.
I took out the mower for the first time this season. *Usually the
mower takes 2 or 3 pulls to start. *After the 2nd pull I realized that
my allergies and headache had the better of me and I was not pulling
the rope very hard. *So I tried again. *The rope came out as usual,
the engine didn't start, and the rope went back in. *So I grapped it
again and when I pulled I found that the rope would not come out.
Turns out it won't budge.
I assumed that the rewind starter had somehow gotten fouled up since I
think in trying to pull hard I pulled too far and the rope handle flew
out of my hand.
Turns out the rewind starter is just fine. *I removed it and it seems
ok. *So, I held the bail brake and tried turning the flywheel (both
with the plug in and with it out) and it won't turn. *Next I checked
that the flywheel brake was actually disengaging. *It appears to work
fine. *When the bail brake is held, the flywheel brake disengages.
However the flywheel will not turn. *I still have the flywheel cup and
nut attached, so I am assuming that the crankshaft is not turning for
some reason.
I am very new to engine repairs. *So, I could be missing something
basic here. *The part that has me really curious is how could the
crankshaft get stuck from just pulling the rewind cord. *Note that the
mower previously was working fine and in the first few attempts at
starting, the cord pulled normally. *Since I was not feeling well, I
know it is impossible that I pulled the cord extremely hard. *So it
doesn't seem that I could have bent the crankshaft.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Door
Take out the plug, and turn it by the blade, is plug wet like it is
flooded. Is oil level normal, to high and the float might have stuck
and hydro locked it up with gas. Once I saw a motor so full of gas
when the plug was removed and cord pulled gasolene shot out 10 ft out
of the spark plug hole.
He already said he tried it with the plug out and it was still locked.
What part of that didn't you understand?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it butt head, he didnt try pulling the blade. What part of
hydrolock do you comprehend, non I see.

You can't hydrolock with the plug out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It happens, ive seen it. A bad carb float or needle valve that doesnt
close down can fill the motor crank case completely with gas.

wrote:
On Tue, 26 May 2009 03:21:21 -0400, E Z Peaces
wrote:

wrote:

IF the blade is not jammed, or the blade brake is not stuck, sqirting
a good penetrant in the plug hole might free it up. I've had badly
seized engines (from rust on the rings) come free with a mixture of
deisel fuel and oil of wintergreen. 1 ounce of oil of wintergreen from
your local compounding pharmaist in 1 gallon of deisel will free up a
lot of small engines. The stuff is poisonous so you have to sign for
it.
I wonder if the diesel fuel would have worked as well alone.
no, we tried it
CRC penetrating oil and Marvel Mystery Oil used to have a little
wintergreen for fragrance. It seems to me that if wintergreen freed
rusty parts, most penetrating oils would have substantial amounts.

Oil of wintergreen acts as a "creep agent" as a vapour but it is a
poison/health hazard, so will not be a large part of any consumer
product

According to a 1994 Material Safety Data Sheet, Ben Gay is 30%
wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate).