Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years, and I would put the branches in my firewood stack
except I have the impression that the pine resin and whatever leaves
drops of "honey" underneath the branches would cause more creosote in
my chimney than other firewood. My chimney is metal.

Am I right at all? Has the resin disappeared somehow in 2 years?

What about used pine 2x4s? They are a lot older than 2 years, but are
they as good as other firewood?

Thanks.


**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

I find that *all* wood heats my house. I'm not picky, therefore I have all
sorts of wood I get for free.

Pine is a royal pain to cut and transport due to the sap, but that is also a
good fire starter! So actually a good thing.

As to creosote, I have good hot fires and only need to clean my chimney once
a year.


"mm" wrote in message
Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years, and I would put the branches in my firewood stack
except I have the impression that the pine resin and whatever leaves
drops of "honey" underneath the branches would cause more creosote in
my chimney than other firewood. My chimney is metal.

Am I right at all? Has the resin disappeared somehow in 2 years?

What about used pine 2x4s? They are a lot older than 2 years, but are
they as good as other firewood?

Thanks.


**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

mm wrote:
Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years, and I would put the branches in my firewood stack
except I have the impression that the pine resin and whatever leaves
drops of "honey" underneath the branches would cause more creosote in
my chimney than other firewood. My chimney is metal.

Am I right at all? Has the resin disappeared somehow in 2 years?

What about used pine 2x4s? They are a lot older than 2 years, but are
they as good as other firewood?

Thanks.


**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

Dunno, but another consideration is that pine burns much faster than other
woods such as oak.

mm wrote:
Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years, and I would put the branches in my firewood stack
except I have the impression that the pine resin and whatever leaves
drops of "honey" underneath the branches would cause more creosote in
my chimney than other firewood. My chimney is metal.

Am I right at all? Has the resin disappeared somehow in 2 years?

What about used pine 2x4s? They are a lot older than 2 years, but are
they as good as other firewood?

Thanks.


**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

Wood burns in two stages: first the flames and then the coals. The
flame stage gets a stove hot to cook breakfast. The coal stage can keep
a room warm all night.

If the smoke doesn't burn very well, the flame stage produces creosote.
Pine is associated with creosote because it burns mostly in the flame
stage. If your wood is dry, and your combustion chamber is fairly hot,
and you have enough secondary air (the draft that sweeps above the fuel
instead of fanning the flames), creosote may not be a problem.

cshenk wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote
[snip]
How would you clean that pipe [..]

I can tell you from my experinces what I have seen.
[..] Take pipe down (normally lifts off from bottom
then pulls out from wall) and I saw a combination of
garden hose and a stiff bristle brush with a bit of 'soap'
(not sure kind of soap, may have been 'dawn dishwishing
type' for all I know). Rinse and repeat til it runs clean.
[snip]

That's how SWMBO's uncle (he owned cabin with a Ben Franklin stove in the
Sierra-Nevadas) did it. He'd also use his 1-hp Genie shopvac to clean up any
soot that dusted the floors on the way outside.

It was a filthy job and one not performed by the faint of heart but, as you
noted in an earlier post, better than the alternative. He used Ajax but Dawn
would work, too, I'm sure.

The chimney sweeps (professionals) would come out to my Sainted Mother's(tm)
home annually for chimney cleaning. Best US$39.00 she'd spend because he had
the tools to scour the inside (and then he'd clean up the mess!) That was
over two decades ago so I'm sure they're charging more nowadays.

The Ranger

On Tue, 19 May 2009 19:17:46 -0400, "cshenk" wrote:

"mm" wrote

Thanks to everyone who has answered.

It's much less important now, because I've decided to make a firewood
rack and keep the wood until fall, but earlier I was wondering:

What do you all think about burning a cut-down tree in a fireplace in
the summer when the heat is of no value*** and after a while I only
get moderate pleasure from watching the flames, or I might even sit
where I can't even see the flames, VERSUS just throwing the logs in
the brush and woods next to my house, where it will rot eventually (10
years or more). I guess letting it rot is better for the
environment, but the hardwood logs are so nice, they seem to call out
to me to be burned. Which is better?

***(but no problem either the fireplace is in the basement which is
always cool and since I run the AC at most one month a year and
wouldn't burn a fire when I was running the AC)

Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

It depends on what you are burning it *in* as well as your aims.

It's a steel fireplace, that's used in place of a brick fireplace.
That is, it's shaped the same, is metal on the sides getting slightly
narrower towards the metal back. Open in the front, with a fireplace
screen. Heavy sheet metal. And an iron rack for holding the wood 3
or 4 inches above the fireplace floor.

No matter what I'm burning, if I put enough in at the same time it
gets hot enough to make bumping noises, mild pounding noises, as parts
expand, and convex areas suddenly become concave. At least that's
what it sounds like. Then when it cools off, it makes similar noises
but not as loud. I run the fireplace 2 to 10 times a year. Is this
bending back and forth going to cause the thing to break at the seams
or somewhere? How many years have I got until this happens?

Pine creates a creosote problem which means a black tarry glaze that coats a
chimney or stove pipe. This then can catch fire. It is not recommended to
use pine in any fireplace for this reason. It is more difficult to clean in
a chimney and can be very expensive to contract (yet cheaper than a house
fire).

Now lets say instead it is a wood burner stove with an easily removed pipe
and you are the sort who would actually remove and clean it regular. It
should be fine then and no reason to not take advantage of your 'windfall'.
How often 'regular' is will depend on usage levels. I can hazard a 'guess'
that at a rate of 12 hours a day burn time, you'd want to check it every 2
weeks until you get a feel for it?

I burn only hardwood in my fireplace but some of the load apparently was a
little mixed and I added too much paper probably last winter (soda cartons
etc which I didnt know were bad- no one knows everything!). Now I have a
glaze problem and need what I think they called a CBR or CFR log for a bit
to clear it.

I have one of those, or maybe I used it. I guess I should buy another.

Last fall I cut up a much bigger pine limb that had broken off the
tree, and threw the pieces in the woods when my townhouse neighbors
weren't looking. I think it's better to throw it in the woods than put
it out for garbage where it will go to landfill, but this year I guess
because of the firewood race, I'm inclined to save it and burn it. I
guess I shouldn't.

They also said we might want to have it cleaned twice a year.
The glaze isnt bad, more a 'warning' note level.

I use the fireplace heavier than most. Although located south of many who
deal with real cold, it's enough we have to run heat to deal with 4 months
of the low-40's to mid-30's with occasional dips to the teens and *rare*
single digits. The fireplace augments the heat and due to our insulation
and design, saved us about 900$ last year beyond the cost of wood. The
fireplace generally ran about 12 hours a day. You could tell the heat HVAC
barely kicked on.

On May 19, 3:24*pm, mm wrote:
Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years, and I would put the branches in my firewood stack
except I have the impression that the pine resin and whatever leaves
drops of "honey" underneath the branches would cause more creosote in
my chimney than other firewood. *My chimney is metal.

Am I right at all? *Has the resin disappeared somehow in 2 years?

What about used pine 2x4s? *They are a lot older than 2 years, but are
they as good as other firewood?

Thanks.

**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

I used to use a little pine to start a fire, some fat lightered
splinters with a small piece of pine to get things started easy. I
still do this on campfires that I dont plan to cook on.

Jimmie

On May 19, 8:40*pm, mm wrote:

* I guess letting it rot is better for the
environment, but the hardwood logs are so nice, they seem to call out
to me to be burned. * Which is better?


That's debatable. Burning puts CO2 in the atmosphere but plants
convert that to oxygen which is good. Throwing the wood out makes it
food for termites which produce methane which is a serious greenhouse
gas. So it's probably a toss up for the environment.

Red

That's debatable. Burning puts CO2 in the atmosphere but plants
convert that to oxygen which is good. Throwing the wood out makes
it food for termites which produce methane which is a serious
greenhouse gas. So it's probably a toss up for the environment.
Red

Superstition cannot be stopped by the progress of civilization.

On May 19, 7:56*pm, Red wrote:
On May 19, 8:40*pm, mm wrote:

** I guess letting it rot is better for the
environment, but the hardwood logs are so nice, they seem to call out
to me to be burned. * Which is better?

That's debatable. *Burning puts CO2 in the atmosphere but plants
convert that to oxygen which is good. Throwing the wood out makes it
food for termites which produce methane which is a serious greenhouse
gas. *So it's probably a toss up for the environment.

Red

On May 19, 7:56*pm, Red wrote:
On May 19, 8:40*pm, mm wrote:

** I guess letting it rot is better for the
environment, but the hardwood logs are so nice, they seem to call out
to me to be burned. * Which is better?

That's debatable. *Burning puts CO2 in the atmosphere but plants
convert that to oxygen which is good. Throwing the wood out makes it
food for termites which produce methane which is a serious greenhouse
gas. *So it's probably a toss up for the environment.

Red

Just letting it rot produces CO2, in fact burning or rotting with
produce the same amount of CO2 the only difference is how much time it
takes to produce it.

Harry K

"cshenk" wrote in message
...
"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote
"cshenk" wrote

Now lets say instead it is a wood burner stove with an easily removed
pipe and you are the sort who would actually remove and clean it
regular. It should be fine then and no reason to not take advantage of
your

How would you clean that pipe, assuming you actually inspected it and
found it needed cleaning?

I can tell you from my experinces what I have seen. I lived in South
Carolina (but up agaist the smokies so we got snow etc). Some folks had
wood burner stoves (often a Ben Franklin sort but there were other than
the pot bellies). The pipe comes up then angles out to the wall exit.
That way heat leaches all the way along it but the slight angle 'upwards'
means apparently it doesnt soot up as fast?

Cleaning was done real simple. Take pipe down (normally lifts off from
bottom then pulls out from wall) and I saw a combination of garden hose
and a stiff bristle brush with a bit of 'soap' (not sure kind of soap, may
have been 'dawn dishwishing type' for all I know). Rinse and repeat til
it runs clean.

If it helps, you'd have a kid with a ripped up towel or really old
blanket-rag who'd be at the ready as you lifted the pipe up as soot would
fall down. They'd grab it so Mom didnt have to clean much and wrap it
then run to the other end and help Dad keep it up so none fell out from
that end as it was moved to the yard.




OK. I was wondering if it took a couple gallons of paint thinner or
something. If that was the case, it seems burning pine would be a pain in
the neck, at least with my attitude toward using that much paint thinner.

On May 19, 3:24*pm, mm wrote:
Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years

Burn the pine. It is 'only' a part of one tree. It will not do damage
like burning cord after cord might.

Thomas.

Al Gore seems to think that carbon dioxide is going to kill
us all. Guess he didn't go to school? My class learned about
plants using dioxide, and releaxing oxygen.

As firewood, I've heard plenty of people say pine is a bad
idea. Not much heat, and plenty of creosote, to coat the
lining of your chimney. And lead to chimney fires.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Red" wrote in message
...

That's debatable. Burning puts CO2 in the atmosphere but
plants
convert that to oxygen which is good. Throwing the wood out
makes it
food for termites which produce methane which is a serious
greenhouse
gas. So it's probably a toss up for the environment.

Red

On Tue, 19 May 2009 18:52:08 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

**FWIW, the branches are 3/4 inch to 3 inches thick.

I used to use a little pine to start a fire, some fat lightered
splinters with a small piece of pine to get things started easy. I
still do this on campfires that I dont plan to cook on.

Fat lightered splinters were near the stove, in a bucket. One match to
light the splinter and FIRE!

Fat lightered stumps burn for days in the ground...

I still love it when I cut a 2X4 and the resin smell is strong.
Reminds of years ago.

On May 20, 8:52*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Al Gore seems to think that carbon dioxide is going to kill
us all. Guess he didn't go to school? My class learned about
plants using dioxide, and releaxing oxygen.

As firewood, I've heard plenty of people say pine is a bad
idea. Not much heat, and plenty of creosote, to coat the
lining of *your chimney. And lead to chimney fires.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That is just another old wives tale. The fact is that _all_ wood has
approximately the same BTU pound for pound. The difference is only in
"how much does it take to make a pound?"

If it weren't for pine/fir/spruce and the like, a whole bunch of
people in th west, north, Canada, Alaska etc would not be burning wood
at all. If all the tales about creosote and chimney fires were true
houses would be going up by the dozens every winter.

The truth is that if the pine, fir, etc. is properly seasoned and the
stove burned properly, i.e., not a 'cold fire' it is no more prone to
chimney creosote than are the hardwoods.

Harry K

On May 20, 5:23*am, Thomas wrote:
On May 19, 3:24*pm, mm wrote:

Are pine trees and pine wood as good as other firewood?

I"m trimming a pine tree that has branches** that have been dead for
about 2 years

Burn the pine. It is 'only' a part of one tree. *It will not do damage
like burning cord after cord might.

Thomas.

And what "damage" might that be? Not more old wives tales I hope.

Harry K

On May 20, 3:08*pm, harry k wrote:

That is just another old wives tale. *The fact is that _all_ wood has
approximately the same BTU pound for pound. *The difference is only in
"how much does it take to make a pound?"


I agree. A cord of pine weighs 2200-2600lbs depending on the
variety. A cord of hickory weighs 4300lbs, double the weight and
double the btu whule the volume remained the same.
Red

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote
"cshenk" wrote

Cleaning was done real simple. Take pipe down (normally lifts off from
bottom then pulls out from wall) and I saw a combination of garden hose
and a stiff bristle brush with a bit of 'soap' (not sure kind of soap,
may have been 'dawn dishwishing type' for all I know). Rinse and repeat
til it runs clean.
(lots of snips)

OK. I was wondering if it took a couple gallons of paint thinner or
something. If that was the case, it seems burning pine would be a pain in
the neck, at least with my attitude toward using that much paint thinner.

Naw, just dishwashing liquid. It was apparently easier than using laundry
soap due to some sort of rinsing need if you use laundry soap. Note this
part is just for a cleaning of a franklin sort of pot bellied stove pipe.
Not a chimney and definately not a modern 'wood burner' sort of device.

"mm" wrote
"cshenk" wrote:

It's a steel fireplace, that's used in place of a brick fireplace.
That is, it's shaped the same, is metal on the sides getting slightly
narrower towards the metal back. Open in the front, with a fireplace
screen. Heavy sheet metal. And an iron rack for holding the wood 3
or 4 inches above the fireplace floor.

Not an optimal design if you plan to not have a professional company clean
it then. Hard to do yourself. But I note later your usage levels are very
low. If you are only using that fireplace 2-10 times a year, it will take a
very LONG time for pine to be a problem.

No matter what I'm burning, if I put enough in at the same time it
gets hot enough to make bumping noises, mild pounding noises, as parts
expand, and convex areas suddenly become concave. At least that's
what it sounds like. Then when it cools off, it makes similar noises
but not as loud. I run the fireplace 2 to 10 times a year. Is this
bending back and forth going to cause the thing to break at the seams
or somewhere? How many years have I got until this happens?

I am not sure but if it were me, I'd ask my local chimney fellows if it was
just a shift in heat or going to cause a problem to any seams just to be
sure.

I suspect, it is like 'big ben', the stove we had in Florida that as it hit
250F, would make a big 'boom' sound but was safe to use. It would do the
same on the way down to 250F but less noisy. Probably safe.

Pine creates a creosote problem which means a black tarry glaze that coats
a
chimney or stove pipe. This then can catch fire. It is not recommended
to
use pine in any fireplace for this reason. It is more difficult to clean
in
a chimney and can be very expensive to contract (yet cheaper than a house
fire).

You can burn pine, but it leaves more residue than hardwood even if cured.
Cleaning more often is highly recommended if using pine. Example: at my
usage levels I would need cleaning probably monthly, maybe be able to get
away safely with every 6 weeks. With cured hardwood, I can safely go 12
weeks easy.

An OP responded that up north they do burn pine (lack of hardwood) and that
the hardwood vs pine is a wives tale. Check it out with some google. The
difference is how often you have to have the fireplace cleaned to keep it
safe. At your usage, probably every 3 years easy if burning pine.

Thanks for the field report. Always good to hear from folks
who have on the spot knowledge. And, sounds like you know
your firewoods.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"harry k" wrote in message
...

That is just another old wives tale. The fact is that _all_
wood has
approximately the same BTU pound for pound. The difference
is only in
"how much does it take to make a pound?"

If it weren't for pine/fir/spruce and the like, a whole
bunch of
people in th west, north, Canada, Alaska etc would not be
burning wood
at all. If all the tales about creosote and chimney fires
were true
houses would be going up by the dozens every winter.

The truth is that if the pine, fir, etc. is properly
seasoned and the
stove burned properly, i.e., not a 'cold fire' it is no more
prone to
chimney creosote than are the hardwoods.

Harry K

Dawn or similar dish soap to cut creosote? I wonder if
Simple Green works. Interesting idea.

Laundry soap, doesn't that require a spin cycle? Hard to do
with chimney pipe. (ha-ha).

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"cshenk" wrote in message
...

Naw, just dishwashing liquid. It was apparently easier than
using laundry
soap due to some sort of rinsing need if you use laundry
soap. Note this
part is just for a cleaning of a franklin sort of pot
bellied stove pipe.
Not a chimney and definately not a modern 'wood burner' sort
of device.

cshenk wrote:


You can burn pine, but it leaves more residue than hardwood even if cured.
Cleaning more often is highly recommended if using pine. Example: at my
usage levels I would need cleaning probably monthly, maybe be able to get
away safely with every 6 weeks. With cured hardwood, I can safely go 12
weeks easy.

An OP responded that up north they do burn pine (lack of hardwood) and that
the hardwood vs pine is a wives tale. Check it out with some google. The
difference is how often you have to have the fireplace cleaned to keep it
safe. At your usage, probably every 3 years easy if burning pine.



Seasoned to 20% moisture, a cord of southern pine weighs more and has
more BTUs than a cord of red maple or elm. It has almost as much heat
as sugar maple.

Pine doesn't produce coals very well and tends to make a lot of smoke.
The two are connected. If you bake wood hot enough to drive off the
smoke, you are left with charcoal. If there's less charcoal, there must
be more smoke.

A flame is burning smoke. Complete combustion produces water vapor and
carbon dioxide. Creosote is what condenses from unburned smoke.

I haven't burned much pine, but I knew a farmer in Vermont who preferred
it for his kitchen stove. Pine ignites easily and burns intensely, so
he didn't have to wait long to start cooking. His way of life was so
clean, aesthetic, and efficient that I'm sure he wouldn't have used pine
if it left creosote.

All wood produces smoke when heated. A smoke fire is harder to manage
than a charcoal fire. The hotter a smoke fire gets, the faster smoke is
produced. With enough air and wood, the fire could get hot enough to
ruin the stove. If you simply restrict the air to control the fire, you
can get unburned smoke, causing pollution, creosote, and waste. If you
control the fire by restricting the amount of fuel, you can have a
temperamental fire and unburned smoke due to low firebox temperatures.

In NC, my BIL bought an 800-sqft farmhouse and installed a small wood
stove. He built a 1000-sqft addition and installed a larger stove on
that side.

Because he had a solar unit, most of the wood burning occurred in about
12 weeks. He'd clean chimneys before and during the season, and still
he had chimney fires. What's more, his family would be cold when they
got ready for work or school because his fires didn't last long after he
went to bed.

He had worse luck with the big stove, so he swapped, using the little
stove in the big part of the house, where his family ate and slept. I
went to work for him and moved into the old part of the house, with the
stove he disliked. I found that I could use that stove to keep the
place warm all night. He didn't check my chimney until the end of the
first heating season. To his amazement, there was no creosote.

I recognized the difference between burning charcoal and burning smoke.
The first phase burns smoke. The amount of air hitting the coals
helps determine how fast smoke is produced. By regulating the upper and
lower vents, I could supply enough upper air for the flames to burn the
smoke cleanly, while by regulating the lower air I could regulate how
fast the coals smoked the wood.

Regulating the two vents also allowed me to burn smoke during the day
while accumulating coals to burn all night. It helps to keep the
firebox hot enough to burn smoke well but not so hot that smoke is
produced too fast. When I had flames in the stove, I found that an
external temperature of 350 - 500 F worked pretty well.

I also used flashing to make an inverted cone for the top of the flue.
Like the nozzle of a fire hose, it increased exit velocity. This kept
cold air out of my flue. This meant a more consistent draft and less
likelihood that smoke would condense in the flue.

I also liked bring wood in from the shed and stack it near the stove
several days before I used it, so the heat would make it as dry as
possible. Water vapor tends to suffocate a fire, so drier wood means
more complete combustion and less creosote.

"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
cshenk wrote:


You can burn pine, but it leaves more residue than hardwood even if
cured. Cleaning more often is highly recommended if using pine. Example:
at my usage levels I would need cleaning probably monthly, maybe be able
to get away safely with every 6 weeks. With cured hardwood, I can safely
go 12 weeks easy.

An OP responded that up north they do burn pine (lack of hardwood) and
that the hardwood vs pine is a wives tale. Check it out with some
google. The difference is how often you have to have the fireplace
cleaned to keep it safe. At your usage, probably every 3 years easy if
burning pine.

If you live in Canada and buy firewood, this site is one that you should
read to avoid being ripped off:
http://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/mc-mc.nsf/eng/lm03963.html

Other useful information on firewood can be obtained he
http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/...62F35-1_En.htm

Ron

Worn Out Retread wrote:
"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...
cshenk wrote:


You can burn pine, but it leaves more residue than hardwood even if
cured. Cleaning more often is highly recommended if using pine.
Example: at my usage levels I would need cleaning probably monthly,
maybe be able to get away safely with every 6 weeks. With cured
hardwood, I can safely go 12 weeks easy.

An OP responded that up north they do burn pine (lack of hardwood)
and that the hardwood vs pine is a wives tale. Check it out with
some google. The difference is how often you have to have the
fireplace cleaned to keep it safe. At your usage, probably every 3
years easy if burning pine.

If you live in Canada and buy firewood, this site is one that you should
read to avoid being ripped off:
http://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/mc-mc.nsf/eng/lm03963.html

Other useful information on firewood can be obtained he
http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/...62F35-1_En.htm

Ron

I wonder why they say wood that has been cut more than three years will
be difficult to burn.

I can see why the say big pieces don't burn as cleanly as small pieces.
If you split some of your 6" logs, the split pieces will season down
to 20% moisture faster.

If they're all equally dry, when a 10-pound log is heated to boiling, it
will release its 2 pounds of water vapor pretty fast. The water vapor
will tend to smother the fire, causing incomplete burning. If you put
in four 2.5-pound pieces, there will be less water vapor smothering the
fire.

http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/...0E258-1_En.htm
This page says, "Burn the fire hot and refuel more often with smaller
loads. Keep the flame lively and bright."

I agree, and if the draft is right, this can generate a lot of coals,
enough to provide heat for hours or even more than a day.

On Sat, 23 May 2009 18:01:08 -0400, E Z Peaces
wrote:


http://www.ec.gc.ca/cleanair-airpur/...0E258-1_En.htm
This page says, "Burn the fire hot and refuel more often with smaller
loads. Keep the flame lively and bright."

I agree, and if the draft is right, this can generate a lot of coals,
enough to provide heat for hours or even more than a day.

Is there any reason to close the damper during the warm months? I
don't use AC, but even if I did, I don't think there is a reason to.

My damper hasn't been working easily for the last year. I have to
bend some rod to fix it, or whatever, but until I do, do I need to
shut it during the summer?

"mm" wrote

Is there any reason to close the damper during the warm months? I
don't use AC, but even if I did, I don't think there is a reason to.

Kinda depends on design there. If you have a good 'cap' which is screened
well enough to keep out bugs, birds, and bats then you should be ok.

cshenk wrote:
"mm" wrote

Is there any reason to close the damper during the warm months? I
don't use AC, but even if I did, I don't think there is a reason to.

Kinda depends on design there. If you have a good 'cap' which is screened
well enough to keep out bugs, birds, and bats then you should be ok.


Sometimes an open draft can make a house more comfortable on a summer
evening.

Suppose at bedtime the air it's 65F outside and 80F inside. You open
the windows but nothing much happens because there's no breeze. If the
chimney is filled with hot air, that can create a draft, drawing cool
air in the windows.

If the chimney was exposed to the sun during the day, it may be hotter
than 80F. If cool air spills into the chimney, that will spoil the
draft. One solution is to put an inverted funnel on top so serve as a
sort of nozzle. Stacks on ships with boilers have traditionally been
tapered for the same reason.