My bathroom floor is tile over concrete. The house is settling and
the slab has a few cracks so I understand why the toilet is no longer
steady. Its shifting caused a leak in the water riser tube so I
tightened the hold down bolts in an attempt to stabilize it and broke
off a piece of the flange. Now that I've installed a flange repair
kit, how can I tell how much I can tighten before cracking the toilet
base?

I put the toilet back down without a wax ring to observe the gap. In
the front I can use nickels for shims but in the back the gap is about
50% bigger than that. Is thinset mortar the best material to use to
support the toilet all around the base? How do I force it under the
base and how much is needed? Is it best to put some sort of coating
on the floor and toilet so I can remove the mortar more easily next
time I have to take off the toilet?

On May 18, 10:05*am, Bob Simon wrote:
My bathroom floor is tile over concrete. *The house is settling and
the slab has a few cracks so I understand why the toilet is no longer
steady. *Its shifting caused a leak in the water riser tube so I
tightened the hold down bolts in an attempt to stabilize it and broke
off a piece of the flange. *Now that I've installed a flange repair
kit, how can I tell how much I can tighten before cracking the toilet
base?

I put the toilet back down without a wax ring to observe the gap. *In
the front I can use nickels for shims but in the back the gap is about
50% bigger than that. * Is thinset mortar the best material to use to
support the toilet all around the base? *How do I force it under the
base and how much is needed? *Is it best to put some sort of coating
on the floor and toilet so I can remove the mortar more easily next
time I have to take off the toilet?

They make ribbed, stackable white plastic toilet shims specifically
for this purpose. Don't use mortar. It'll hinder removal in the
future.

On May 18, 1:05*pm, Bob Simon wrote:
* Is thinset mortar the best material to use to
support the toilet all around the base? *How do I force it under the
base and how much is needed? *Is it best to put some sort of coating
on the floor and toilet so I can remove the mortar more easily next
time I have to take off the toilet?

What in the tobes of hades prompted you to pick THINSET MORTAR as the
possible repair material? It would make just as much sense to choose
licorice whips or toenail fungus.

They make toilet shims for this. Probably on the rack at Home Depot
right next to the toilet flange repair kit...

Then again, you did think that you were going to somehow draw the
tolet, made of RIGID and FRAGILE vitreous china, down over an uneven
floor... Takes a smart one to figure that out.

Do you know which end to put in the toilet to do your business?

In article ,
Bob Simon wrote:

My bathroom floor is tile over concrete. The house is settling and
the slab has a few cracks so I understand why the toilet is no longer
steady. Its shifting caused a leak in the water riser tube so I
tightened the hold down bolts in an attempt to stabilize it and broke
off a piece of the flange. Now that I've installed a flange repair
kit, how can I tell how much I can tighten before cracking the toilet
base?

I put the toilet back down without a wax ring to observe the gap. In
the front I can use nickels for shims but in the back the gap is about
50% bigger than that. Is thinset mortar the best material to use to
support the toilet all around the base? How do I force it under the
base and how much is needed? Is it best to put some sort of coating
on the floor and toilet so I can remove the mortar more easily next
time I have to take off the toilet?

EZ-Shim. Look for them by name. Better than wood for door and window
jambs, and perfect for toilets or other wet locations.