I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

On Thu, 14 May 2009 12:20:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Maybe binding linkage or partially fouled spark plug?

On May 14, 3:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

In my search for a new mower, I came across another site that may also
be useful. The link follows:

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/lmower/

On May 14, 12:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Start with the easy stuff: Clean out under the mowing deck. Is it
caked up with dried-on grass?

Oren wrote:
On Thu, 14 May 2009 12:20:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Maybe binding linkage or partially fouled spark plug?

With the engine running, I'd try to move the throttle valve on the
carburetor to see if the engine is slow because the throttle isn't open.
My mower speed is often affected by debris in the governor linkage.
A loose screw or disconnected spring can also affect the governor.

E Z Peaces wrote:

-snip-
My mower speed is often affected by debris in the governor linkage.
A loose screw or disconnected spring can also affect the governor.

That's where I go first. Rev it a few times with the governor and see
if it clears up.

A little PB blaster and a shot with the compressor sometimes works
wonders.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
E Z Peaces wrote:

-snip-
My mower speed is often affected by debris in the governor linkage.
A loose screw or disconnected spring can also affect the governor.

That's where I go first. Rev it a few times with the governor and see
if it clears up.

A little PB blaster and a shot with the compressor sometimes works
wonders.

Jim

PB = ???

On May 14, 2:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

I have one of those, got it at HD last year, mine has no throttle.
What is slow, the motor or drive speed. They run at 3600 rpm constant.
Once I had a mouse nest in my air filter.

On Fri, 15 May 2009 07:25:13 -0400, LouB wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
E Z Peaces wrote:

-snip-
My mower speed is often affected by debris in the governor linkage.
A loose screw or disconnected spring can also affect the governor.

That's where I go first. Rev it a few times with the governor and see
if it clears up.

A little PB blaster and a shot with the compressor sometimes works
wonders.

Jim

PB = ???
http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

http://www.pbblaster.com/images/msds/PB-bulk-aug08.pdf

Jim
[long time liquid wrench & wd-40 user- switched to PB a few years ago]

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Have to love the big box totally useless nonsensical power rating:

Power Rating 6.5 Ft. Lbs Gross Torque*

On May 15, 7:37*am, George wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Have to love the big box totally useless nonsensical power rating:

Power Rating * *6.5 Ft. Lbs Gross Torque*- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How does that rate to HP, my new Toro 6.75 whatever rating sure isnt
6.75hp.

ransley wrote:
On May 15, 7:37 am, George wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.
http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html
At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.
Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.
Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.
Where should I start looking for problems?
Thanks!
Have to love the big box totally useless nonsensical power rating:

Power Rating 6.5 Ft. Lbs Gross Torque*- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How does that rate to HP, my new Toro 6.75 whatever rating sure isnt
6.75hp.

It doesn't without further information. It just seems to be a not
uncommon big box label that means nothing.

On May 14, 5:50*pm, mike wrote:
On May 14, 12:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:



I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Start with the easy stuff: *Clean out under the mowing deck. *Is it
caked up with dried-on grass?

No.

On May 15, 7:53*am, ransley wrote:
On May 14, 2:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:



I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

I have one of those, got it at HD last year, mine has no throttle.
What is slow, the motor or drive speed. They run at 3600 rpm constant.
Once I had a mouse nest in my air filter.

The motor.

Most likely the guy who developed it, Penywinkle Bonaparte.

Or, it could be PB for Penetrating Blasrer. It would be
similar to getting money from an ATM Machine, or going to
department of motor vehicles, and needing your VIN Number.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"LouB" wrote in message
...

PB = ???

Have you tried the dry PB with PTFE? I bought a can of it at
the store, lasnight. Tried it in a couple of the locks at
church. See if it does any good. It improved things at the
moment when I squirted the locks. See how long it lasts.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...

http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

http://www.pbblaster.com/images/msds/PB-bulk-aug08.pdf

Jim
[long time liquid wrench & wd-40 user- switched to PB a few
years ago]

George wrote:
ransley wrote:
On May 15, 7:37 am, George wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recycler mower with a B&S engine.
http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html
At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.
Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.
Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.
Where should I start looking for problems?
Thanks!
Have to love the big box totally useless nonsensical power rating:

Power Rating 6.5 Ft. Lbs Gross Torque*- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

How does that rate to HP, my new Toro 6.75 whatever rating sure isnt
6.75hp.

It doesn't without further information. It just seems to be a not
uncommon big box label that means nothing.

Torque seems like a good way to compare mowers where the blade is on the
crankshaft. I don't care which engine has more power at 5,000 rpm. I
want the most torque at 3600 because that's what will keep me from
bogging down at the speed where a blade is run.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Have you tried the dry PB with PTFE?

Just shot a dog leash with it yesterday. Let you know how that works
out.

I bought a can of it at
the store, lasnight. Tried it in a couple of the locks at
church. See if it does any good. It improved things at the
moment when I squirted the locks. See how long it lasts.

My first thought it that there is a whole lot of liquid [smells like
denatured alcohol?, ether?] for a little bit of lube--- but sometimes
a little lube goes a long ways.

Jim

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Fri, 15 May 2009 07:25:13 -0400, LouB wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote:
E Z Peaces wrote:

-snip-
My mower speed is often affected by debris in the governor linkage.
A loose screw or disconnected spring can also affect the governor.
That's where I go first. Rev it a few times with the governor and see
if it clears up.

A little PB blaster and a shot with the compressor sometimes works
wonders.

Jim
PB = ???
http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4

http://www.pbblaster.com/images/msds/PB-bulk-aug08.pdf

Jim
[long time liquid wrench & wd-40 user- switched to PB a few years ago]

Thanks

Lou

I noticed the rattle ball. So, have to shake it every time
it's used. The teflon might settle out?

Thanks, I'm curious how your dog leash works out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Have you tried the dry PB with PTFE?

Just shot a dog leash with it yesterday. Let you know how
that works
out.

I bought a can of it at
the store, lasnight. Tried it in a couple of the locks at
church. See if it does any good. It improved things at the
moment when I squirted the locks. See how long it lasts.

My first thought it that there is a whole lot of liquid
[smells like
denatured alcohol?, ether?] for a little bit of lube--- but
sometimes
a little lube goes a long ways.

Jim

On Fri, 15 May 2009 17:27:59 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I noticed the rattle ball. So, have to shake it every time
it's used. The teflon might settle out?

Thanks, I'm curious how your dog leash works out.

Didn't. It worked better before. Maybe it was reacting with the
graphite or it's vehicle? some old lube that was in there? It
says it is safe with plastice-- but I might as well have sprayed
adhesive in there. It is far worse than it was yesterday.

Let us know how it treats the locks over time.

Jim

I sprayed two out of four locks, on the church. Went back a
day or two later. I couldn't tell any difference between the
locks. They all worked about the same. Not sure if that's a
big enough sample to be sure.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Stormin Mormon" wrote
in message ...
I noticed the rattle ball. So, have to shake it every time
it's used. The teflon might settle out?

Thanks, I'm curious how your dog leash works out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Elbrecht" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:

Have you tried the dry PB with PTFE?

Just shot a dog leash with it yesterday. Let you know how
that works
out.

I bought a can of it at
the store, lasnight. Tried it in a couple of the locks at
church. See if it does any good. It improved things at the
moment when I squirted the locks. See how long it lasts.

My first thought it that there is a whole lot of liquid
[smells like
denatured alcohol?, ether?] for a little bit of lube--- but
sometimes
a little lube goes a long ways.

Jim

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I sprayed two out of four locks, on the church. Went back a
day or two later. I couldn't tell any difference between the
locks. They all worked about the same. Not sure if that's a
big enough sample to be sure.


time is the real test;
if it doesn't gum up after a few months to 6 months,then it's probably OK.

any lube would work for a short time.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

I finally got my test helper to the building. Had Scott try
all four locks. I had sprayed the left (only ) of two sets
of doors. He said the two at the one set were about equal.
On the other set, the right one really needed something.

I guess for lack of anything better to do, I'll go around
and squirt em all one of these days.

You are exactly correct. Six months from now, if they all
gum up, I'll figure something out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...

time is the real test;
if it doesn't gum up after a few months to 6 months,then
it's probably OK.

any lube would work for a short time.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

I sprayed two out of four locks, on the church. Went back a
day or two later. I couldn't tell any difference between the
locks. They all worked about the same. Not sure if that's a
big enough sample to be sure.


time is the real test;
if it doesn't gum up after a few months to 6 months,then it's probably OK.

any lube would work for a short time.


A century ago, mineral oils were favored because they wouldn't gum and
wouldn't cause fires by spontaneous combustion. Often, vegetable or
animal fats were added to improve lubricating qualities. Then there
could be gumming.

Vegetable and animal fats contained fatty acids that could corrode
metal. Depending on how it was refined, mineral oil could also contain
acid.

I wonder how much has changed.

Now days, we discuss mineral oils on boxes which light up.
Then, we burp, fart, and scratch our butts. Not much has
changed.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"E Z Peaces" wrote in message
...

A century ago, mineral oils were favored because they
wouldn't gum and
wouldn't cause fires by spontaneous combustion. Often,
vegetable or
animal fats were added to improve lubricating qualities.
Then there
could be gumming.

Vegetable and animal fats contained fatty acids that could
corrode
metal. Depending on how it was refined, mineral oil could
also contain
acid.

I wonder how much has changed.

On May 14, 3:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recyclermowerwith a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Update:

I've changed the plug and the air filter.

I've changed the fuel - after mixing in some carb cleaner and running
it through.

I've made sure the ecreen at the bottom of fuel tank is clear.

I've made sure the hose from the tank to the carb and the hose from
the carb to the engine were clear.

I sprayed all of the exposed linkages and springs with cleaner to de-
gunk them.

I dropped the bowl and cleaned up the float and needle - without
removing anything except the bowl.

Nothing helped. The mower runs fine for a few minutes after each start
and then drops to a really slow, almost-stall-but-not-quite speed.

I'm thinking it's shop time...

On Tue, 26 May 2009 12:55:49 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On May 14, 3:20*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recyclermowerwith a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Update:

I've changed the plug and the air filter.

I've changed the fuel - after mixing in some carb cleaner and running
it through.

I've made sure the ecreen at the bottom of fuel tank is clear.

I've made sure the hose from the tank to the carb and the hose from
the carb to the engine were clear.

I sprayed all of the exposed linkages and springs with cleaner to de-
gunk them.

I dropped the bowl and cleaned up the float and needle - without
removing anything except the bowl.

Nothing helped. The mower runs fine for a few minutes after each start
and then drops to a really slow, almost-stall-but-not-quite speed.

I'm thinking it's shop time...

Loosen the gas cap, see if helps. Using a paper clip you can pierce
the hole in the cap, to ensure it is cleared. The fuel tanks needs to
vent.

Does the engine have a coil? Perhaps it is cracked and runs like this
when the coil heats, expands and leaks?

Two things come to mind. First, the oil. As strange it
sounds, many mowers don't run worth a hoot on cheap oil. Try
Castrol, that's the brand I like.

Second, makes me wonder what's with the speed governor.
Might need new carb throttle springs.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On May 14, 3:20 pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've got a Toro Recyclermowerwith a B&S engine.

http://www.toro.com/home/mowers/recycler/20064.html

At the end of last season I ran it dry and stored it for
the winter.

Last weekend I changed the oil and filled it with fresh
gas. After a
few starts and stalls, it eventually stayed running. It
ran fine for
several minutes and then dropped to about half speed, RPM
speaking.

Now it starts on a couple of pulls just like it did all
last year, but
it runs really, really slow. It doesn't seem like it wants
to stall,
it's just running at a very slow speed and obviously not
cutting as
well.

Where should I start looking for problems?

Thanks!

Update:

I've changed the plug and the air filter.

I've changed the fuel - after mixing in some carb cleaner
and running
it through.

I've made sure the ecreen at the bottom of fuel tank is
clear.

I've made sure the hose from the tank to the carb and the
hose from
the carb to the engine were clear.

I sprayed all of the exposed linkages and springs with
cleaner to de-
gunk them.

I dropped the bowl and cleaned up the float and needle -
without
removing anything except the bowl.

Nothing helped. The mower runs fine for a few minutes after
each start
and then drops to a really slow, almost-stall-but-not-quite
speed.

I'm thinking it's shop time...

The vented fuel tank idea is very good.

Most gasoline engines have an ignition coil. So, I think
it's likely he does have one on that mower. You're right,
that they do go bad. But often they short out and the mower
dies. Engine slows down, doesn't sound like bad coil.

to the OP, please remove the motor cover, and clean any
dirt, leaves, etc, from under the motor. Walking mowers are
air cooled. Any dirt will cause the motor to run hot, and
that isn't good. Might be part of your problem. The end of
the motor where the spark plug goes in, that has be clean of
dirt. Also good to clean off any oil or grease from the
cooling fins.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...

Loosen the gas cap, see if helps. Using a paper clip you can
pierce
the hole in the cap, to ensure it is cleared. The fuel tanks
needs to
vent.

Does the engine have a coil? Perhaps it is cracked and runs
like this
when the coil heats, expands and leaks?

On May 26, 10:30*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The vented fuel tank idea is very good.

Most gasoline engines have an ignition coil. So, I think
it's likely he does have one on that mower. You're right,
that they do go bad. But often they short out and the mower
dies. Engine slows down, doesn't sound like bad coil.

to the OP, please remove the motor cover, and clean any
dirt, leaves, etc, from under the motor. Walking mowers are
air cooled. Any dirt will cause the motor to run hot, and
that isn't good. Might be part of your problem. The end of
the motor where the spark plug goes in, that has be clean of
dirt. Also good to clean off any oil or grease from the
cooling fins.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Oren" wrote in message

...

Loosen the gas cap, see if helps. Using a paper clip you can
pierce
the hole in the cap, to ensure it is cleared. The fuel tanks
needs to
vent.

Does the engine have a coil? Perhaps it is cracked and runs
like this
when the coil heats, expands and leaks?

I'll check the vent cap.

The mower is clean, up, down and all around.

On May 26, 10:30*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The vented fuel tank idea is very good.

Most gasoline engines have an ignition coil. So, I think
it's likely he does have one on that mower. You're right,
that they do go bad. But often they short out and the mower
dies. Engine slows down, doesn't sound like bad coil.

to the OP, please remove the motor cover, and clean any
dirt, leaves, etc, from under the motor. Walking mowers are
air cooled. Any dirt will cause the motor to run hot, and
that isn't good. Might be part of your problem. The end of
the motor where the spark plug goes in, that has be clean of
dirt. Also good to clean off any oil or grease from the
cooling fins.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Oren" wrote in message

...

Loosen the gas cap, see if helps. Using a paper clip you can
pierce
the hole in the cap, to ensure it is cleared. The fuel tanks
needs to
vent.

Does the engine have a coil? Perhaps it is cracked and runs
like this
when the coil heats, expands and leaks?

I spoke to a local guy that repairs small engines. He said that it's
possible that the timing is off, but that there is no timing
adjustment on this engine.

He said that if the engine has ever been run with little or no oil
then something might have warped which could throw the timing off. If
that's the case, then the mower is toast.

In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup but since
I've done anyway, he said he'd look at it for $20 and let me know what
he thinks.

I'll let you know what he finds.

On May 27, 8:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 26, 10:30*pm, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
The vented fuel tank idea is very good.

Most gasoline engines have an ignition coil. So, I think
it's likely he does have one on that mower. You're right,
that they do go bad. But often they short out and the mower
dies. Engine slows down, doesn't sound like bad coil.

to the OP, please remove the motor cover, and clean any
dirt, leaves, etc, from under the motor. Walking mowers are
air cooled. Any dirt will cause the motor to run hot, and
that isn't good. Might be part of your problem. The end of
the motor where the spark plug goes in, that has be clean of
dirt. Also good to clean off any oil or grease from the
cooling fins.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Oren" wrote in message

.. .

Loosen the gas cap, see if helps. Using a paper clip you can
pierce
the hole in the cap, to ensure it is cleared. The fuel tanks
needs to
vent.

Does the engine have a coil? Perhaps it is cracked and runs
like this
when the coil heats, expands and leaks?

I spoke to a local guy that repairs small engines. He said that it's
possible that the timing is off, but that there is no timing
adjustment on this engine.

He said that if the engine has ever been run with little or no oil
then something might have warped which could throw the timing off. If
that's the case, then the mower is toast.

In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup but since
I've done anyway, he said he'd look at it for $20 and let me know what
he thinks.

I'll let you know what he finds.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

edit:

In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup but since
I've done most of what he would do anyway, he said he'd look at it for
$20 and let me know what he thinks.

Yes, I'm curious what turns out to be the real problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup
but since
I've done anyway, he said he'd look at it for $20 and let me
know what
he thinks.

I'll let you know what he finds.

On May 27, 12:44*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Yes, I'm curious what turns out to be the real problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...

In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup
but since
I've done anyway, he said he'd look at it for $20 and let me
know what
he thinks.

I'll let you know what he finds.

He has the mower now. I'll post back when I get an answer.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 27, 12:44 pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
Yes, I'm curious what turns out to be the real problem.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

...

In any case, he normally charges $55 for a complete tuneup
but since
I've done anyway, he said he'd look at it for $20 and let me
know what
he thinks.

I'll let you know what he finds.

He has the mower now. I'll post back when I get an answer.

He says it needs a carburetor. He said it runs fine until it draws a
vacuum and slows down.

He says there's a rebuild kit available for about $12 bucks but the jets
might still be gunked up, so he suggested replacing the carb for about $65.

He said he does these tune-ups on the side and doesn't want to get into
guaranteeing a carb replacement just in case he's wrong and has to eat
the $65. He suggested I order a carb, throw it on there and see what
happens. He even said to call him if I run into problems.

No charge for what he tried since he didn't fix it.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

-snip-
He says it needs a carburetor. He said it runs fine until it draws a
vacuum and slows down.

He says there's a rebuild kit available for about $12 bucks but the jets
might still be gunked up, so he suggested replacing the carb for about $65.

He said he does these tune-ups on the side and doesn't want to get into
guaranteeing a carb replacement just in case he's wrong and has to eat
the $65. He suggested I order a carb, throw it on there and see what
happens. He even said to call him if I run into problems.

No charge for what he tried since he didn't fix it.

Good man. Sounds like my neighbor. I like http://www.psep.biz/
for carbs.

His search engine fails me sometimes, so try Google's 'search site'
thingy with the part number if you can't locate your carb.

Jim

On May 28, 6:29*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

-snip-

He says it needs a carburetor. He said it runs fine until it draws a
vacuum and slows down.

He says there's a rebuild kit available for about $12 bucks but the jets
might still be gunked up, so he suggested replacing the carb for about $65.

He said he does these tune-ups on the side and doesn't want to get into
guaranteeing a carb replacement just in case he's wrong and has to eat
the $65. He suggested I order a carb, throw it on there and see what
happens. He even said to call him if I run into problems.

No charge for what he tried since he didn't fix it.

Good man. * *Sounds like my neighbor. * *I like http://www.psep.biz/
for carbs.

His search engine fails me sometimes, so try Google's 'search site'
thingy with the part number if you can't locate your carb.

Jim

Thanks. I'll check out that site.

On May 28, 11:51*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 28, 6:29*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:





DerbyDad03 wrote:

-snip-

He says it needs a carburetor. He said it runs fine until it draws a
vacuum and slows down.

He says there's a rebuild kit available for about $12 bucks but the jets
might still be gunked up, so he suggested replacing the carb for about $65.

He said he does these tune-ups on the side and doesn't want to get into
guaranteeing a carb replacement just in case he's wrong and has to eat
the $65. He suggested I order a carb, throw it on there and see what
happens. He even said to call him if I run into problems.

No charge for what he tried since he didn't fix it.

Good man. * *Sounds like my neighbor. * *I likehttp://www.psep.biz/
for carbs.

His search engine fails me sometimes, so try Google's 'search site'
thingy with the part number if you can't locate your carb.

Jim

Thanks. I'll check out that site.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Update:

Problem solved - I bought a new mower!

When I picked up the mower from the guy who told me I needed a carb,
he said it was running just like it was before - starts fine and then
slows. That was about 2 weeks ago and I just hadn't gotten around to
ordering the carb.

Last Friday night I decided I had to mow, so I tried to start the
mower. After a couple of pulls I heard a loud "clank" from under the
bed. I lifted the mower to find the blade and half of the blade
mounting assembly on the ground. The mounting assembly had failed on
this mower a few years ago, so I knew right away what was wrong.

Over the past week I had shopped for a carb and found the cost to be
around $80 - $85 with shipping. I know from past experience that the
blade mounting assembly was about $20. So now I need over a $100 in
parts and at least a couple of hours of labor.

I looked at the bald front wheels, reminded myself of how rough the
self-propel mechanism was working, thought about how it was time to
get the blade sharpened and said "See ya! Time for a new mower."

The replacement Toro mower (same features, this year's version) was
$279 at HD. Just about every model that had the features I wanted was
$275 - $300.

Went to Sears and found a Craftsman Limited Edition with a Honda 160
CC engine, regularly $399, on sale for $289, one left. “Thank you,
just load it into that van right there.”

Put the old one at the street, with a sign that said Free! Needs
Carburetor and Blade Mounting Assembly". It was gone by the next
morning.