holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

Joe wrote:

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

The metal folding / expanding bolt anchors sometimes called "mollys"
installed through the studs work well. You have to be careful to drill
through the stud edge without pushing too hard and bending the stud
flange.

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

On May 7, 6:41*am, "Joe" wrote:
I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? *are
different screws recommended? *or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

It depends on the thickness (gage) of the steel stud material. Heavy
gage (16 ga or better) steel studs are very strong & I would trust
them to hold a screw quite well.

Lighter gage (like 30ga) steel studs can be kinda wimpy.

I would suggest sheet metal screws of minimum size of #10 and a
coarser thread. Drill hole in the stud flange just slightly smaller
than the screw root diameter. A smaller hole will allow the screw to
"upset" the stud material and form somewhat around the screw, This
will give better screw holding behavior.

Molly toggle bolts are another way to attach to (through) steel studs
or to the drywall but I find them somewhat of a PITA to install and
require huge holes. Additionally removal means losing the toggle.

How strong are the shelving channels? How heavily are the shelves
going to be loaded?

cheers
Bob

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

"fftt" wrote in message
...
On May 7, 6:41 am, "Joe" wrote:
I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

It depends on the thickness (gage) of the steel stud material. Heavy
gage (16 ga or better) steel studs are very strong & I would trust
them to hold a screw quite well.

Lighter gage (like 30ga) steel studs can be kinda wimpy.

I would suggest sheet metal screws of minimum size of #10 and a
coarser thread. Drill hole in the stud flange just slightly smaller
than the screw root diameter. A smaller hole will allow the screw to
"upset" the stud material and form somewhat around the screw, This
will give better screw holding behavior.

Molly toggle bolts are another way to attach to (through) steel studs
or to the drywall but I find them somewhat of a PITA to install and
require huge holes. Additionally removal means losing the toggle.

How strong are the shelving channels? How heavily are the shelves
going to be loaded?

cheers
Bob

Bob,

Thanks. The shelving chanels are the double row type. I'm going to assume
worst case for the load (books).

jc

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

On May 8, 5:30*am, "Joe" wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message

...
On May 7, 6:41 am, "Joe" wrote:

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

It depends on the thickness (gage) of the steel stud material. * Heavy
gage (16 ga or better) steel studs are very strong & I would trust
them to hold a screw quite well.

Lighter gage (like 30ga) steel studs can be kinda wimpy.

I would suggest sheet metal screws of minimum size of #10 and a
coarser thread. Drill hole in the stud flange just slightly smaller
than the screw root diameter. * A smaller hole will allow the screw to
"upset" the stud material and form somewhat around the screw, *This
will give better screw holding behavior.

Molly toggle bolts are another way to attach to (through) steel studs
or to the drywall but I find them somewhat of a PITA to install and
require huge holes. * *Additionally removal means losing the toggle.

How strong are the shelving channels? *How heavily are the *shelves
going to be loaded?

cheers
Bob

Bob,

Thanks. *The shelving chanels are the double row type. *I'm going to assume
worst case for the load (books).

jc

Joe-

Oops! I typed 30 gage but I meant 20 gage as the example of thin stud
material......I think the thinnest steel studs are like 22 or 24
gage....maybe 26?

I'd sure like it if they just went to .0xx material thickness &
stopped using gage. :(


Anyway...if your channels are very stifff and act like a long "strong
back" (4', 6' or 8') mounted to the wall, then the withdrawal forces
on the screws (the ones at the top) would be much less than if the
channels are short & flexible.

cheers
Bob

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

Joe wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message
...
On May 7, 6:41 am, "Joe" wrote:

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc


It depends on the thickness (gage) of the steel stud material. Heavy
gage (16 ga or better) steel studs are very strong & I would trust
them to hold a screw quite well.

Lighter gage (like 30ga) steel studs can be kinda wimpy.

I would suggest sheet metal screws of minimum size of #10 and a
coarser thread. Drill hole in the stud flange just slightly smaller
than the screw root diameter. A smaller hole will allow the screw to
"upset" the stud material and form somewhat around the screw, This
will give better screw holding behavior.

Molly toggle bolts are another way to attach to (through) steel studs
or to the drywall but I find them somewhat of a PITA to install and
require huge holes. Additionally removal means losing the toggle.

Uh, I don't think the trade name "Molly" was ever used for toggle bolts.
Your complaint is true of toggle bolts, but not of Mollys (expanding
fasteners), which remain in place when you remove their screws.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_bolt

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.


How strong are the shelving channels? How heavily are the shelves
going to be loaded?

cheers
Bob

Bob,

Thanks. The shelving chanels are the double row type. I'm going to assume
worst case for the load (books).

jc

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

On May 8, 2:50*pm, jeff_wisnia wrote:
Joe wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message
...
On May 7, 6:41 am, "Joe" wrote:

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the drywall?

tia,

jc

It depends on the thickness (gage) of the steel stud material. * Heavy
gage (16 ga or better) steel studs are very strong & I would trust
them to hold a screw quite well.

Lighter gage (like 30ga) steel studs can be kinda wimpy.

I would suggest sheet metal screws of minimum size of #10 and a
coarser thread. Drill hole in the stud flange just slightly smaller
than the screw root diameter. * A smaller hole will allow the screw to
"upset" the stud material and form somewhat around the screw, *This
will give better screw holding behavior.

Molly toggle bolts are another way to attach to (through) steel studs
or to the drywall but I find them somewhat of a PITA to install and
require huge holes. * *Additionally removal means losing the toggle..

Uh, I don't think the trade name "Molly" was ever used for toggle bolts.
Your complaint is true of toggle bolts, but not of Mollys (expanding
fasteners), which remain in place when you remove their screws.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molly_bolt

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.



How strong are the shelving channels? *How heavily are the *shelves
going to be loaded?

cheers
Bob

Bob,

Thanks. *The shelving chanels are the double row type. *I'm going to assume
worst case for the load (books).

jc

Jeff-

Sorry about calling toggle bolts "molly toggles"......its nod to my
dad's terminology of 45+ years ago.
and I sometimes slip up & use his term "molly toggles" interchangeably
for toggle bolts.

I'm not a fan of either toggles (huge hole & sloppy installation) or
mollys (a PITA to install & leave a chunk of metal in the wall) but
when one is dealing with drywall the options are limited. :)

Since steel studs have a fair amount of strength, I use coarse thread
larger diameter (like #12's) metal screws. With a decent shelving
channel they should work just fine.


cheers
Bob

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...
wrote:
On Thu, 07 May 2009 13:41:39 GMT, "Joe" wrote:

I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with
metal studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the
drywall?


Usually if a builder knows they are hanging something they will put
wood blocking behind steel studs because they are not particularly
good for hanging things on.
The moly bolt idea is probably better than sheet metal screws but be
careful drilling. If you hit a piece of Romex you could end up with
shelf brackets with 120 volts on them. Steel studs are not
bonded/grounded unless you live in Florida and you have a new house
(2007+)

If there are metal boxes attached to the metal studs, the studs will, by
being in physical contact, be grounded. If you have plastic boxes, they
will not be grounded. One of the many reasons that I do not like plastic
boxes.

Quite true. But many/most condos require armored cable.

We have steel siding on our house. There is no deliberate "bonding" of the
siding but it seems to test out as a very solid ground. Thing is that the
steel systems are quite well bonded to each other. Just the casual contact
with "real" grounds seems to do a good job. A few months ago I put up some
of that aluminized "bubble wrap" stuff as insulation. (This was a wood
frame house.) I accidentally let some of the "bubble wrap" come in contact
with a hot wire. If I had not been "right there" it would have been fun to
watch! Anyway, it defintiely tripped a 15 amp breaker. The house is a
mix of metal and plastic boxes but I still have no idea how the "bubble
wrap" got bonded but there is no question that it was/is.

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

"Joe" wrote in message
. ..
I'm mounting some shelving (channel and bracket) into a wall with metal
studs, which I've never done before.

what is the difference in holding power of metal vs wood studs? are
different screws recommended? or should I use toggle bolts in the
drywall?

Most of the strength of a metal stud wall comes from the drywall material.
Just don't impose a load that would cause the drywall to fail.

Thus, it's best to just anchor into the drywall material.

For my money, "molly bolts" suck!

I have had very good experience with the plactic anchors that "pop out" in
the cavity but even the sleeve type plastic anchors are pretty good.

Toggle bolts always work.

holding power of metal vs wood studs
 

"John Gilmer" wrote in message
Thus, it's best to just anchor into the drywall material.

For my money, "molly bolts" suck!

I have had very good experience with the plactic anchors that "pop out" in
the cavity but even the sleeve type plastic anchors are pretty good.

Toggle bolts always work.

That would depends on what the shelf is going to hold. Not for heavy books,
IMO.