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Epoxy coating a round log
On Mar 23, 2:12*pm, Paul Oman wrote:
wrote: Hi...any tips on applyingepoxyto a round log? *I do not need the entire log coated as I am not worried about the underside. Do I just lay the log on some plastic, pour theepoxyover it and let gravity do its work? I am in theepoxybusiness. What exactly are you trying to do? *- paul The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. I actually split the log in half last night. It's for a bar as an arm rest. It can now sit nice and flat and all I need is a smooth, hard finish over the log. What's my best option? |
Epoxy coating a round log
On Mar 25, 10:35*am, wrote:
snip The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. I actually split the log in half last night. *It's for a bar as an arm rest. *It can now sit nice and flat and all I need is a smooth, hard finish over the log. *What's my best option? Polyester boat resin in a plastic film lined box is still your best and easiest process. The lower resin viscosity will penetrate wood fiber better than solvent diluted reactive resin systems. UV resistance is a plus. What ever system you choose, read the labels and know in advance what the hazards are in working with them. Amine type hardeners in epoxies, for example, may cause dermatitis in some people. Never had that problem myself, but have seen it in the workplace. Good luck. Joe |
Epoxy coating a round log
On Mar 25, 2:46*pm, Joe wrote:
On Mar 25, 10:35*am, wrote: snip The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. I actually split the log in half last night. *It's for a bar as an arm rest. *It can now sit nice and flat and all I need is a smooth, hard finish over the log. *What's my best option? Polyester boat resin in a plastic film lined box is still your best and easiest process. The lower resin viscosity will penetrate wood fiber better than solvent diluted reactive resin systems. UV resistance is a plus. What ever system you choose, read the labels and know in advance what the hazards are in working with them. Amine type hardeners in epoxies, for example, may cause dermatitis in some people. Never had that problem myself, but have seen it in the workplace. Good luck. Joe Thanks, Joe. Any particular type of Polyester boat resin? I called one of my local boat supply stores and was told they have several types available. |
Epoxy coating a round log
On Mar 25, 2:46*pm, Joe wrote:
On Mar 25, 10:35*am, wrote: snip The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. I actually split the log in half last night. *It's for a bar as an arm rest. *It can now sit nice and flat and all I need is a smooth, hard finish over the log. *What's my best option? Polyester boat resin in a plastic film lined box is still your best and easiest process. The lower resin viscosity will penetrate wood fiber better than solvent diluted reactive resin systems. UV resistance is a plus. What ever system you choose, read the labels and know in advance what the hazards are in working with them. Amine type hardeners in epoxies, for example, may cause dermatitis in some people. Never had that problem myself, but have seen it in the workplace. Good luck. Joe Thanks, Joe. Any articular type of Polyester Resin? I called my local boating supply store and was told they have several different types. |
Epoxy coating a round log
The bark is off, the log is dry, and has been made pretty smooth.
Tree type is White Birch. |
Epoxy coating a round log
wrote:
The bark is off, the log is dry, and has been made pretty smooth. Tree type is White Birch. Well, if it were me, I'd do the step by step in my previous post. However, if you want to cover all the wood - not just the flat surface - I'd do the non-flat part first. I'd just brush on laminating resin* til I had it all covered, then brush on a coat of the same with wax added, then use casting resin per my previous post for the flat part. * Laminating resin stays sticky so that additional coats bond well. For it to cure completely, the surface needs to be protected from air; adding wax (to make "finishing" resin) keeps it away from air but the cured resin won't be shiny unless sanded and buffed. See the link in my previous post for supplies & more info. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
Epoxy coating a round log
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Epoxy coating a round log
wrote:
wrote: On Mar 23, 2:12 pm, Paul Oman wrote: wrote: Hi...any tips on applyingepoxyto a round log? I do not need the entire log coated as I am not worried about the underside. Do I just lay the log on some plastic, pour theepoxyover it and let gravity do its work? I am in theepoxybusiness. What exactly are you trying to do? - paul The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. I actually split the log in half last night. It's for a bar as an arm rest. It can now sit nice and flat and all I need is a smooth, hard finish over the log. What's my best option? Is this a log with bark, or cleaned off? From my days of refinishing pianos, I learned that you can build a thick finish with shellac and then use varnish as a protective coat. Shellac isn't water/alcohol-proof. If you are going to pour the finish on, fashion a prop - nails stuck through scrap wood? - so the log isn't resting on a surface. -------------------- set it on some plastic or wax paper then just 'brush/pour' on some ,marine epoxy which is about honey thick over it.... Then perhaps a coat or three of varnish - paul/progressive epoxy polymers |
Epoxy coating a round log
wrote:
On Wed, 25 Mar 2009 08:35:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote: The log is about 5 foot long and is only about 6 inches in diameter. That doesn't sound that heavy. I would still try to turn it as the epoxy cures. Try to find the center of gravity and drive some big spikes in there Support it and turn it with a rotisserie motor. Pour the epoxy on and let it turn. The others are right- epoxy is the wrong material for the job. They sell a plastic resin for applications like this. Any large hobby/craft/art supply shop should have it. (although it would probably be cheaper online or at an industrial supply.) A bar I used to hang out in had a layer of resin on the bar top covering a layer of coins, small bills, car keys, and similar trash. Yes, it made it hard to find your change. -- aem sends... |
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