How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2" beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this would be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See
image below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2"
beyond the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this
would be a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing, but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add
a lot of work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as
some of them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up
against a joist, would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC
Nail or screw them up to the joists, as you would without the furring
strips. There are three screws inside the can, that you can loosen and drop
the can down to the desired depth, then re tighten

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessedhousings?
 

On Mar 21, 8:01*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. *See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. *If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2" beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this would be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. *This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?


cheers
Bob

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See
image below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2"
beyond the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume
this would be a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing, but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add
a lot of work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as
some of them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up
against a joist, would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC
Nail or screw them up to the joists, as you would without the furring
strips. There are three screws inside the can, that you can loosen and
drop the can down to the desired depth, then re tighten


I didn't know you can do that. That saves a ton of work. The only cans I
have are H7T and H99T. You have been a great help RBM, thanks a bunch
again!

MC

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"fftt" wrote in message
...
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2" beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?


cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. Also since I use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans, I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See
image below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding
1/2" beyond the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I
assume this would be a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think
my only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing, but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only
add a lot of work, but will also require me to shift the housing
positions as some of them that are supposed to be located such that it's
butt up against a joist, would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC
Nail or screw them up to the joists, as you would without the furring
strips. There are three screws inside the can, that you can loosen and
drop the can down to the desired depth, then re tighten


I didn't know you can do that. That saves a ton of work. The only cans I
have are H7T and H99T. You have been a great help RBM, thanks a bunch
again!

MC

It'll work fine with the H7T, but the H99T is smaller, and uses three pointy
spring clips instead of screws, so you can't lock it in place, and because
it's smaller, you only have about 1/2" of adjustment. Also, it will be a
problem when inserting the trim piece, which will have a tendency to push
the can back up

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessedhousings?
 

On Mar 21, 11:30*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message

...
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2" beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? *They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? *What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as *is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. *Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. *Also since I use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans, I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

42 lights! What kind of bulbs, that sounds like alot of electricity
and heat generated

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessedhousings?
 

On Mar 22, 8:47*am, ransley wrote:
On Mar 21, 11:30*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





"fftt" wrote in message

....
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:

I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2" beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? *They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? *What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as *is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. *Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. *Also since I use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans, I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

42 lights! *What kind of bulbs, that sounds like alot of electricity
and heat generated- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Wow, sure does. Either these are a humongous kitchen and dining room
or sounds like overkill.

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 21, 11:30 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message

...
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2"
beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this
would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think
my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof
leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be
very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. Also since I use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans, I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

42 lights! What kind of bulbs, that sounds like alot of electricity
and heat generated

No, not 42 lights in my kitchen.

42 is a grand total of recessed lights in the entire house.

Kitchen general - 4
Kitchen sink/counter area - 4
Dinning room - 6
Living room - 10
Four bedrooms - 2 each 10 total
One hallway - 6
Four bathrooms - 5 total

So total of 45 recessed lights around the house. There are additional
scones, flush mounts, pendants, fluorescent light coves, track lighting in
these areas as well. But no, not 42 recessed lights in the kitchen, that
would probably cook the food by itself LOL.

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessedhousings?
 

MiamiCuse wrote:

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 21, 11:30 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message

...
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2"
beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this
would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think
my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof
leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be
very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. Also since I use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans, I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

42 lights! What kind of bulbs, that sounds like alot of electricity
and heat generated

No, not 42 lights in my kitchen.

42 is a grand total of recessed lights in the entire house.

Kitchen general - 4
Kitchen sink/counter area - 4
Dinning room - 6
Living room - 10
Four bedrooms - 2 each 10 total
One hallway - 6
Four bathrooms - 5 total

So total of 45 recessed lights around the house. There are additional
scones, flush mounts, pendants, fluorescent light coves, track lighting in
these areas as well. But no, not 42 recessed lights in the kitchen, that
would probably cook the food by itself LOL.

Er, you have some math issues there...

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

MiamiCuse wrote:

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Mar 21, 11:30 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"fftt" wrote in message

...
On Mar 21, 8:01 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:





I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to
a
layer
of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See
image
below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account
for
this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist and
attach
them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing protruding 1/2"
beyond
the joist, it is a little above the furring strip and I assume this
would
be
a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I
think
my
only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing,
but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only add a lot
of
work, but will also require me to shift the housing positions as some
of
them that are supposed to be located such that it's butt up against a
joist,
would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC

Use retrofit cans? They're quick & easy

Why was all the sheetrock removed? What's up with the insulation?

The new ceiling would be a lot stiffer if you used 5/8" sheetrock.

If you insist on using "new construction" cans....
can you modify the brackets or use them as is to attach to the cans
to the furring strips?

cheers
Bob

Sheetrock was removed for several reasons combined, it had some roof
leaks,
also part of the ceiling was slightly lower before when transitioning
from
living to dinning to kitchen, and now that I have that entire space
opened
up, I had to make the ceiling one level. Plus the sheetrock was 1/2"
plaster coat over 3/8" gypsum backer board, matching thickness would be
very
difficult.

I can't use remodel cans now anyways with sheetrock down. Also since I
use
EMT conduits there are quite a few cases I did not have the clearances
I
need to put a housing in, if I had sheetrock down and use remodel cans,
I
would have opened up at least 80 holes for the 42 recessed lights I am
installing.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

42 lights! What kind of bulbs, that sounds like alot of electricity
and heat generated

No, not 42 lights in my kitchen.

42 is a grand total of recessed lights in the entire house.

Kitchen general - 4
Kitchen sink/counter area - 4
Dinning room - 6
Living room - 10
Four bedrooms - 2 each 10 total
One hallway - 6
Four bathrooms - 5 total

So total of 45 recessed lights around the house. There are additional
scones, flush mounts, pendants, fluorescent light coves, track lighting
in
these areas as well. But no, not 42 recessed lights in the kitchen, that
would probably cook the food by itself LOL.

Er, you have some math issues there...

Yeah I know. The master bedroom has a mini-hallway to the master bath and
closet and that takes up two more, so in my case it is 4 bedrooms and 10
total in the bedrooms, and the master bath has two recessed lights.

MC

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists. See
image below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account
for this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist
and attach them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing
protruding 1/2" beyond the joist, it is a little above the furring
strip and I assume this would be a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think
my only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing, but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only
add a lot of work, but will also require me to shift the housing
positions as some of them that are supposed to be located such that
it's butt up against a joist, would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC
Nail or screw them up to the joists, as you would without the furring
strips. There are three screws inside the can, that you can loosen and
drop the can down to the desired depth, then re tighten


I didn't know you can do that. That saves a ton of work. The only cans
I have are H7T and H99T. You have been a great help RBM, thanks a bunch
again!

MC

It'll work fine with the H7T, but the H99T is smaller, and uses three
pointy spring clips instead of screws, so you can't lock it in place, and
because it's smaller, you only have about 1/2" of adjustment. Also, it
will be a problem when inserting the trim piece, which will have a
tendency to push the can back up




Most of the housings are H7T, so it should be OK. For the H99T cans, I have
only 10 of those, so I will screw in some 1x2s to be flushed with the bottom
of furring strips.

If there any way to stop the can from being pushed up when installing trim
pieces? Anything I can do to lock down the cans?

Thanks,

MC

How to compensate for ceiling strip when installing recessed housings?
 

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I just ran into a problem.

My ceiling sheetrocks are not attached directly to the joist, but to a
layer of 1x3 furring strips which are then attached to the joists.
See image below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1010313.jpg

Now, when I install recessed light housing I somehow have to account
for this strip. If I line up the flange with the bottom of the joist
and attach them that way, instead of the "lip" of the housing
protruding 1/2" beyond the joist, it is a little above the furring
strip and I assume this would be a problem.

I cannot lower the attachment point of the housing flanges, so I think
my only solution is to sister 2x4s to the joists on both sides of the
housing, but lower them to flush with the strip. This would not only
add a lot of work, but will also require me to shift the housing
positions as some of them that are supposed to be located such that
it's butt up against a joist, would have to be repositioned.

Any easier way?

Thanks,

MC
Nail or screw them up to the joists, as you would without the furring
strips. There are three screws inside the can, that you can loosen and
drop the can down to the desired depth, then re tighten


I didn't know you can do that. That saves a ton of work. The only cans
I have are H7T and H99T. You have been a great help RBM, thanks a bunch
again!

MC

It'll work fine with the H7T, but the H99T is smaller, and uses three
pointy spring clips instead of screws, so you can't lock it in place, and
because it's smaller, you only have about 1/2" of adjustment. Also, it
will be a problem when inserting the trim piece, which will have a
tendency to push the can back up




Most of the housings are H7T, so it should be OK. For the H99T cans, I
have only 10 of those, so I will screw in some 1x2s to be flushed with the
bottom of furring strips.

If there any way to stop the can from being pushed up when installing trim
pieces? Anything I can do to lock down the cans?

Thanks,

MC

There won't be a problem if you're going to fur down the 99s. The H7s will
be locked by the screws