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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into
the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Monday, January 25, 2016 at 5:23:48 PM UTC-5, Peabody wrote:
The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into
the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Just stab it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBM4GIr8cN4
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into
the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Abandon the screw on, by cutting the end of the supply line clean with
a razor knife (plastic ferrule tip?).

Ensure the cut is a clean cut. The water supply line is then pushed
into the connection, grips in place without the former nut connection.
(push to lock fitting)

Sample video:

https://tinyurl.com/zkj5yd9

YMMV
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into


I know two cases, an ice maker and a humidifier, where poly tubing
sprang a leak by itself. Copper doesn't do that.


the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.

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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 22:06:07 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into


I know two cases, an ice maker and a humidifier, where poly tubing
sprang a leak by itself. Copper doesn't do that.


the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.

I also know one case where copper line came off the icemaker over the
weekend and flooded the kitchen and hald the main room of the office.
Soaked the wool carpet (glued down to concrete) in the office area and
the engineered hardwood flooring. The hardwood was a total loss, and
all the cabinets had to be removed to replace the flooring - over
$30,000 total damage - all because the guy who installed the coffee
maker compromized the connection to the icemaker.....


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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Monday, January 25, 2016 at 5:23:48 PM UTC-5, Peabody wrote:
The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into
the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


What do the instructions say? I see both a copper compression type
fitting nut and a plastic nut in the bag. Plus the valve has two
ends. I would think the valve would accommodate both copper and
plastic supply lines.
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On 1/25/2016 10:06 PM, Micky wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into


I know two cases, an ice maker and a humi[I've replaced poly, that leaked and was blamed on the resident cats chewing.]difier, where poly tubing
sprang a leak by itself. Copper doesn't do that.


the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Center posted, as your text was.

To the OP, a coule folks have had bad
experiences with poly tubing. Please
replace with copper.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 08:35:39 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/25/2016 10:06 PM, Micky wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into


I know two cases, an ice maker and a humi[I've replaced poly, that leaked and was blamed on the resident cats chewing.]difier, where poly tubing
sprang a leak by itself. Copper doesn't do that.


the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Center posted, as your text was.


This is called "in-line posting". It's the easiest to understand
because each comment follows the prior poster's words that one is
commenting on.

It's the preferred method in Usenet and without a doubt within Usenet
etiquette.

I've used it here for 20 years. Why the sudden complaining about it?

To the OP, a coule folks have had bad
experiences with poly tubing. Please
replace with copper.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.

Otoh, if you want to complain, you don't have your sig preceded by the
proper line so that the sig isn't quoted when one replies. Where
you have one hyphen should be two hyphens and a space, "-- " without
the quotes.
.

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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 10:04:37 -0500, Micky
wrote:

On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 08:35:39 -0500, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 1/25/2016 10:06 PM, Micky wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jan 2016 16:23:41 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

The ice maker inlet valve on my 1979 Whirlpool fridge finally died. I can't
explain why it failed so quickly.

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct replacement valve, which
is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667

However, this one has a quick connect fitting for the water supply line, but
the instructions are for an apparently earlier model with screw fittings. I
have no experience with quick connect fittings, and don't quite knpw what to
do.

My water line is your standard 1/4" poly tubing. Do I just stuff that into

I know two cases, an ice maker and a humi[I've replaced poly, that leaked and was blamed on the resident cats chewing.]difier, where poly tubing
sprang a leak by itself. Copper doesn't do that.


the QC opening, or do I have to transition to copper first? And if the poly
is ok, do I need to insert one of those anti-collapse sleeves into the tubing
first?

Thanks for any suggestions.


Center posted, as your text was.


This is called "in-line posting". It's the easiest to understand
because each comment follows the prior poster's words that one is
commenting on.

It's the preferred method in Usenet and without a doubt within Usenet
etiquette.

I've used it here for 20 years. Why the sudden complaining about it?

To the OP, a coule folks have had bad
experiences with poly tubing. Please
replace with copper.

-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.

Otoh, if you want to complain, you don't have your sig preceded by the
proper line so that the sig isn't quoted when one replies. Where
you have one hyphen should be two hyphens and a space, "-- " without
the quotes.
.

It's just Stormy - he'll bitch about something, so it may as well be
inline posting as anything elae.

His crap doesn't stink either - -
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

wrote in message

His crap doesn't stink either - -


A perfect example of "those that can, do. Those that can't, teach. Those
that can do neither, criticize.

Did you hear about the man who thought he was dead? This guy firmly believed
he was dead, even though he was a living, normally functioning human being.
Well, his wife persuaded him to visit a psychiatrist, who tried in vain to
convince him that he was in fact alive. Finally, the psychiatrist hit upon a
plan. He showed the man medical reports and scientific evidence that dead
men do not bleed. After thoroughly convincing the man that dead men do not
bleed, the psychiatrist took out a pin and pricked the man's finger. When
the man saw the drop of blood trickle down his finger, his eyes grew wide.
"Ha!" he cried, "Dead men do bleed after all!"

--
Bobby G.


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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

Thanks for everyone's comments.

trader_4 says...

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct
replacement valve, which is this one:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667


What do the instructions say? I see both a copper
compression type fitting nut and a plastic nut in the
bag. Plus the valve has two ends. I would think the
valve would accommodate both copper and plastic supply
lines.


The plastic nut in the bag is part of the extension needed
for the line to the ice maker. This is needed for some
older boxes like mine. With this new "universal"
replacment, the old line is no longer long enough.

I managed to get this done in only about three hours. Now
you're gonna ask why it took that long, but if you ever saw
me trying to do plumbing, you would understand.

First, I had everything backward. From the instructions,
which weren't for this valve anyway, it looked like the
standard compression fitting was for the line to the ice
maker, and the quick connect was for the supply line.

But after trying lots of different positions, and trying to
see how this would actually work, it became apparent that I
was wrong. Then, just glancing at the valve in the right
light, I saw a barely visible direction-of-flow arrow. So,
the compression fitting is actually at the supply line,
which is where I think it should be, and the quick connect
is for the line to the ice maker, where even if it leaks it
won't leak much.

Then all I had to do was figure out exactly where the valve
would be mounted, add the extension to the ice maker line,
connect everything, and hope it wouldn't leak. And of
course hope it would work.

Anyway, it did the first fill cycle successfully, and so far
nothing leaks. That's a good sign. But I'll leave the
fridge pulled out for a couple days so I can make sure it
isn't leaking. Then I may have to adjust the ON time for
the correct fill level.

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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!


More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:

--
Bobby G.




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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 14:10:47 -0600, Peabody
wrote:

Thanks for everyone's comments.

trader_4 says...

Anyway, I ordered what's supposed to be the correct
replacement valve, which is this one:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/381506821667


What do the instructions say? I see both a copper
compression type fitting nut and a plastic nut in the
bag. Plus the valve has two ends. I would think the
valve would accommodate both copper and plastic supply
lines.


The plastic nut in the bag is part of the extension needed
for the line to the ice maker. This is needed for some
older boxes like mine. With this new "universal"
replacment, the old line is no longer long enough.

I managed to get this done in only about three hours. Now
you're gonna ask why it took that long, but if you ever saw
me trying to do plumbing, you would understand.

First, I had everything backward. From the instructions,
which weren't for this valve anyway, it looked like the
standard compression fitting was for the line to the ice
maker, and the quick connect was for the supply line.

But after trying lots of different positions, and trying to
see how this would actually work, it became apparent that I
was wrong. Then, just glancing at the valve in the right
light, I saw a barely visible direction-of-flow arrow. So,
the compression fitting is actually at the supply line,
which is where I think it should be, and the quick connect
is for the line to the ice maker, where even if it leaks it
won't leak much.

Then all I had to do was figure out exactly where the valve
would be mounted, add the extension to the ice maker line,
connect everything, and hope it wouldn't leak. And of
course hope it would work.

Anyway, it did the first fill cycle successfully, and so far
nothing leaks. That's a good sign. But I'll leave the
fridge pulled out for a couple days so I can make sure it
isn't leaking. Then I may have to adjust the ON time for
the correct fill level.


Sounds like you done good. There is an adjustment for the ice maker
that changes the fill level for the ice tray, if that is a concern.

_Ice Maker Troubleshooting and Adjusting - Cube Size _

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUCdhFdl2eA

Thanks for posting back here.
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On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message

His crap doesn't stink either - -


A perfect example of "those that can, do. Those that can't, teach. Those
that can do neither, criticize.



I've never been a fan of "Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach."

I'm a perfect example of one who can and also teaches.

Many people take great pleasure in teaching others to do the things
that they themselves can do very well and then watching the others
succeed.
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 17:45:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!


More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:

Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.
Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)
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On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 16:34:53 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 1:24:20 PM UTC-5, Robert Green wrote:
wrote in message

His crap doesn't stink either - -


A perfect example of "those that can, do. Those that can't, teach. Those
that can do neither, criticize.



I've never been a fan of "Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach."

I'm a perfect example of one who can and also teaches.

Many people take great pleasure in teaching others to do the things
that they themselves can do very well and then watching the others
succeed.

+1
I also taught officially for several years, and now teach unofficially
in many ways.

And I can do what I teach - or in some cases I used to be able.


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wrote in message

stuff snipped

I also taught officially for several years, and now teach unofficially
in many ways.

And I can do what I teach - or in some cases I used to be able.


There's the rub. Age changes the equation, but come on guys, it's a
platitude or a homily or something like that. I've forgotten! (-: Anyway
it's not meant to be literally true and it's more a dig against critics than
teachers.

--
Bobby G.



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wrote in message

stuff snipped

More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:


Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.
Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)


Interesting is not what I've heard it called when someone has a flood and
the first thing the adjuster says is "this isn't covered." I am not sure
the US flood insurance situation is the same as Canada's, though. I think
we foolishly replace houses in flood plains far too often although that
might be changing.

--
Bobby G.



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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On 1/26/2016 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

A perfect example of "those that can, do. Those that can't, teach. Those
that can do neither, criticize.



I've never been a fan of "Those that can, do. Those that can't, teach."

I'm a perfect example of one who can and also teaches.

Many people take great pleasure in teaching others to do the things
that they themselves can do very well and then watching the others
succeed.


I've found there are several types of people. Some noble
folks (such as myself) enjoy sharing wisdom, and seeing
others succeed.

Less noble people might be in competition all the time,
trying to get ahead.

Minimally noble people try to tear others down.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 11:03:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 17:45:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!


More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:

Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.


Wrong again. Flood insurance is available in most areas that are flood
prone, at least here in the USA.



Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)


I'd like to see the many homeowner's policies that don't cover wind, the
house burning down due to lightning, etc. Earthquakes, yes. But I've yet
to see a homeowner's policy that doesn't cover the house burning down from
a lightning strike.
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 8:27:41 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 11:03:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 17:45:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!

More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:

Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.


Wrong again. Flood insurance is available in most areas that are flood
prone, at least here in the USA.



Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)


I'd like to see the many homeowner's policies that don't cover wind, the
house burning down due to lightning, etc. Earthquakes, yes. But I've yet
to see a homeowner's policy that doesn't cover the house burning down from
a lightning strike.


I wonder what my "Act of God coverage" actually is. I should look it up.

I've had damage caused by the *results* of wind (and other "Acts Of God")
which the Ins Co covered but the damage wasn't the direct result of the "Act".

Heavy winds caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. The Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

An ice storm caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. That limb took out my electrical service and damaged some siding. The
Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

A micro burst toppled a tree which totaled my van. The Ins Co covered the
damage caused by fallen tree.

I wonder what would have happened if the wind had ripped off my siding or
the ice storm caused my gutters to fall off or the micro-burst had flipped
my van over. Each of those would have resulted in damage caused *directly*
by the "Act Of God", not "indirect" damage from trees that were damaged
by the Act.

I assume I would have been covered, but I honestly don't know.


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On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 10:20:19 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 8:27:41 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 11:03:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 17:45:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!

More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:
Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.


Wrong again. Flood insurance is available in most areas that are flood
prone, at least here in the USA.



Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)


I'd like to see the many homeowner's policies that don't cover wind, the
house burning down due to lightning, etc. Earthquakes, yes. But I've yet
to see a homeowner's policy that doesn't cover the house burning down from
a lightning strike.


I wonder what my "Act of God coverage" actually is. I should look it up.

I've had damage caused by the *results* of wind (and other "Acts Of God")
which the Ins Co covered but the damage wasn't the direct result of the "Act".

Heavy winds caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. The Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

An ice storm caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. That limb took out my electrical service and damaged some siding. The
Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

A micro burst toppled a tree which totaled my van. The Ins Co covered the
damage caused by fallen tree.

I wonder what would have happened if the wind had ripped off my siding or
the ice storm caused my gutters to fall off or the micro-burst had flipped
my van over. Each of those would have resulted in damage caused *directly*
by the "Act Of God", not "indirect" damage from trees that were damaged
by the Act.

I assume I would have been covered, but I honestly don't know.


During Sandy I had substantial roof damage due to high winds and then
some water damage as a further consequence. Homeowners covered it all.
They also covered a sliding screen door that got blown off and destroyed.
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Default Need advice on ice maker valve replacement

On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 11:18:28 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 10:20:19 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, January 27, 2016 at 8:27:41 AM UTC-5, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at 11:03:34 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jan 2016 17:45:43 -0500, "Robert Green"
wrote:

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

stuff snipped

I wondered if they raised their own rates after paying themselves. Maybe
even cancelled their own policy. That would be so fitting!

More fitting is they denied they claim and THEN cancelled themselves!

More likely too given the exlusions I've see regarding flood damage.

(-:
Flood damage is interesting. Water over land is not covered without a
specific rider that you can not get for any price in flood prone
areas.

Wrong again. Flood insurance is available in most areas that are flood
prone, at least here in the USA.



Named perils doesn't cover any flood damage UNLESS it is specified.
Also known as specified perils.

All perils covers floods - except for over land -no insurance covers
"acts of war" and many don't cover "acts of God" unless specified
(lightning, wind, earthquake etc)

I'd like to see the many homeowner's policies that don't cover wind, the
house burning down due to lightning, etc. Earthquakes, yes. But I've yet
to see a homeowner's policy that doesn't cover the house burning down from
a lightning strike.


I wonder what my "Act of God coverage" actually is. I should look it up.

I've had damage caused by the *results* of wind (and other "Acts Of God")
which the Ins Co covered but the damage wasn't the direct result of the "Act".

Heavy winds caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. The Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

An ice storm caused a large limb to come down on my house from a neighboring
tree. That limb took out my electrical service and damaged some siding. The
Ins Co covered the damage caused by the fallen limb.

A micro burst toppled a tree which totaled my van. The Ins Co covered the
damage caused by fallen tree.

I wonder what would have happened if the wind had ripped off my siding or
the ice storm caused my gutters to fall off or the micro-burst had flipped
my van over. Each of those would have resulted in damage caused *directly*
by the "Act Of God", not "indirect" damage from trees that were damaged
by the Act.

I assume I would have been covered, but I honestly don't know.


During Sandy I had substantial roof damage due to high winds and then
some water damage as a further consequence. Homeowners covered it all.
They also covered a sliding screen door that got blown off and destroyed.


Good to know. No problems caused by Jonas?
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