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-   -   Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible? (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/271952-creating-steeper-pitch-dutch-gutter-possible.html)

[email protected] February 24th 09 05:08 PM

Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible?
 
I have a dutch gutter that drains the storm water away to the gutter
inlet that leads below to the courtyard deck and tie into a 4" pipe
that drains outside.

There are several issues associated with this gutter design. Here is
a picture.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/P1000997.jpg

One of the issues is that the drain inlet leaks below. I know what
the problem is and I just need to install a real dome shaped roof
drain with a clamp that tightens to the deck that allows for some
movement, and I have to reflash around that. Not a problem I can deal
with that.

The other issue is if you look close enough, the previous owner has
installed a drip edge (brown color) over the edge of the gutter, and
have decided to screw them into the edge of the 2x12 below. One screw
every 8 inches or so. My understanding is that there should not be
any exposed screws. I don't know why this was done, but probably was
an attempt to repair something...I don't know. I think I have to rip
out the drip edge and see what is going on there. The drip edge
should have wrapped the gutter on both sides and the membrane go over
that, I believe.

Now the biggest problem is that the gutter itself is not pitched steep
enough to drain water quickly. In some areas of the gutter there are
low spots which caused slight ponding and contributes to leaks. I
took the soffit panel off from below and as best I can tell, the
framing was done this way as illustrated in the picture below:

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...tterconfig.jpg

The concrete tiles run to a point about 16" back of the edge. Then a
membrane lined the gutter. The membrane sits on top of the plywood
which sits on the truss. The vertical edge of the gutter is a piece
of 2x12. Now wedged in between the plywood and the 2x12 face is a
piece of strange shaped lumber. It looks like a piece of 4x4 or even
6x6 custom cut...in the picture above it is the piece shown in red.

My question is, how was this piece made 36 years ago?

My plan is to take out the last row of tiles, and rip out the existing
membrane and drip edge to expose all the way to the plywood and
visually inspect the situation. I expect to find a few spots of
rotted wood that I will need to repair.

Now, how would I redo the gutter to give it a bit more pitch? Using a
standard minimum gutter slope of 1/16" per foot so the longest gutter
run is 30', I can create a high point in the middle and drain down 15'
on each side, which means I will need to have a rise of 0.9375 or say
1". Heck let's make it 2".

Is it possible to create a piece of lumber, same shape as the red
piece in the picture, but tapered the depth so that on one end it's 2"
deeper? Can a lumber yard do this custom shaped tapered wood? If I
can order and fabricate such a piece, then lay a new membrane over the
entire gutter then a new drip edge, I believe that would create the
pitch I need...thoughts?

I have explored the idea of eliminating the dutch gutter altogether
and let water just drain over and install a structural gutter (they
call them super gutter) and the screening framing would attach to
that. However that created another unsolvable challenge.

Sorry for the long post, it's a complicated situation and not easy to
explain.

aemeijers February 27th 09 02:12 AM

Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible?
 
wrote:
I have a dutch gutter that drains the storm water away to the gutter
inlet that leads below to the courtyard deck and tie into a 4" pipe
that drains outside.
(snip)
Is it possible to create a piece of lumber, same shape as the red
piece in the picture, but tapered the depth so that on one end it's 2"
deeper? Can a lumber yard do this custom shaped tapered wood? If I
can order and fabricate such a piece, then lay a new membrane over the
entire gutter then a new drip edge, I believe that would create the
pitch I need...thoughts?

I have explored the idea of eliminating the dutch gutter altogether
and let water just drain over and install a structural gutter (they
call them super gutter) and the screening framing would attach to
that. However that created another unsolvable challenge.

Sorry for the long post, it's a complicated situation and not easy to
explain.


The strange-shaped wood was probably done in a local shop on a big
bandsaw, or even a 12" table saw.

I'm no roofer, but my inclination would be to have local specialty
roofer line the gutter with metal, rather than the grit-faced material
in there right now. Smooth metal will be louder, but the water will flow
a lot better. They could do sections 8 feet long on a metal brake,
lapped and seamed in the field. It should go up under the first row of
tiles, and wrap all the way around past the edge of the roof. Weird for
residential, but a lot of commercial roofs, on older buildings, are even
more complicated. I don't know if anyone makes roll-form machines that
big, but that would be ideal- no seams at all. The right metal, and a
good torch guy, and they could solder the joints with little risk of
burning the wood underneath. (Yes, I presume they do put a layer of
something under it.)

Back in the day, that gutter would be lead-lined. Can't do that anymore...
---
aem sends...

miamicuse February 27th 09 03:38 AM

Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible?
 

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I have a dutch gutter that drains the storm water away to the gutter
inlet that leads below to the courtyard deck and tie into a 4" pipe
that drains outside.
(snip)
Is it possible to create a piece of lumber, same shape as the red
piece in the picture, but tapered the depth so that on one end it's 2"
deeper? Can a lumber yard do this custom shaped tapered wood? If I
can order and fabricate such a piece, then lay a new membrane over the
entire gutter then a new drip edge, I believe that would create the
pitch I need...thoughts?

I have explored the idea of eliminating the dutch gutter altogether
and let water just drain over and install a structural gutter (they
call them super gutter) and the screening framing would attach to
that. However that created another unsolvable challenge.

Sorry for the long post, it's a complicated situation and not easy to
explain.


The strange-shaped wood was probably done in a local shop on a big
bandsaw, or even a 12" table saw.

I'm no roofer, but my inclination would be to have local specialty roofer
line the gutter with metal, rather than the grit-faced material in there
right now. Smooth metal will be louder, but the water will flow a lot
better. They could do sections 8 feet long on a metal brake, lapped and
seamed in the field. It should go up under the first row of tiles, and
wrap all the way around past the edge of the roof. Weird for residential,
but a lot of commercial roofs, on older buildings, are even more
complicated. I don't know if anyone makes roll-form machines that big, but
that would be ideal- no seams at all. The right metal, and a good torch
guy, and they could solder the joints with little risk of burning the wood
underneath. (Yes, I presume they do put a layer of something under it.)

Back in the day, that gutter would be lead-lined. Can't do that anymore...
---
aem sends...


now that you talk about a metal gutter, can't they use those soft metal that
is typically use for flashing and line them with it? Probably cost
prohibitive?



[email protected] February 27th 09 02:12 PM

Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible?
 
On Feb 26, 9:12*pm, aemeijers wrote:
wrote:
I have a dutch gutter that drains the storm water away to the gutter
inlet that leads below to the courtyard deck and tie into a 4" pipe
that drains outside.
(snip)
Is it possible to create a piece of lumber, same shape as the red
piece in the picture, but tapered the depth so that on one end it's 2"
deeper? *Can a lumber yard do this custom shaped tapered wood? *If I
can order and fabricate such a piece, then lay a new membrane over the
entire gutter then a new drip edge, I believe that would create the
pitch I need...thoughts?


I have explored the idea of eliminating the dutch gutter altogether
and let water just drain over and install a structural gutter (they
call them super gutter) and the screening framing would attach to
that. *However that created another unsolvable challenge.


Sorry for the long post, it's a complicated situation and not easy to
explain.


The strange-shaped wood was probably done in a local shop on a big
bandsaw, or even a 12" table saw.

I'm no roofer, but my inclination would be to have local specialty
roofer line the gutter with metal, rather than the grit-faced material
in there right now. Smooth metal will be louder, but the water will flow
a lot better. They could do sections 8 feet long on a metal brake,
lapped and seamed in the field. It should go up under the first row of
tiles, and wrap all the way around past the edge of the roof. Weird for
residential, but a lot of commercial roofs, on older buildings, are even
more complicated. I don't know if anyone makes roll-form machines that
big, but that would be ideal- no seams at all. The right metal, and a
good torch guy, and they could solder the joints with little risk of
burning the wood underneath. (Yes, I presume they do put a layer of
something under it.)

Back in the day, that gutter would be lead-lined. Can't do that anymore....
---
aem sends...


This is frustrating. I have interviewed 7 roofers in the past two
weeks and this situation had all of them scratching their heads.
Seems no one wants to actually try to solve problem anymore, they just
want to work on conventional no brainer just execute jobs.

Answers I got a

"you really need to talk to a screener guy this is more a screening
problem".
"Have you spoken with a gutter company?"
"This is really not a gutter this is part of a roof you need a
roofer".
"If I were you I just pressure clean the gutter and paint a coat of
something over it, it will break in a few months and you do it again".
"Take down the attached screen and rip off the edge of the gutter and
let the water fall into the courtyard".
"Let me think about this...why did they do something like that?"



aemeijers February 28th 09 05:59 AM

Creating a steeper pitch in a dutch gutter - possible?
 
wrote:
On Feb 26, 9:12 pm, aemeijers wrote:
wrote:

(snip)
This is frustrating. I have interviewed 7 roofers in the past two
weeks and this situation had all of them scratching their heads.
Seems no one wants to actually try to solve problem anymore, they just
want to work on conventional no brainer just execute jobs.

Answers I got a

"you really need to talk to a screener guy this is more a screening
problem".
"Have you spoken with a gutter company?"
"This is really not a gutter this is part of a roof you need a
roofer".
"If I were you I just pressure clean the gutter and paint a coat of
something over it, it will break in a few months and you do it again".
"Take down the attached screen and rip off the edge of the gutter and
let the water fall into the courtyard".
"Let me think about this...why did they do something like that?"


Were these all guys who did mainly residential work? You need somebody
who works in commercial buildings, especially older ones, like old
churches. Some of the metalwork on the steeples and roofs of those makes
your place look simple. May have to look in the nearest big city.
Specialists like that may not be in the yellow pages- they are a niche
market, and the people who need them know where to find them. They redid
an old church in this town, and according to the article in the paper,
they had to import a specialist from several states away.

It may come down to doing like you said, and amputating that section of
roof, and coming up with something more conventional. Or if you are
expecting a long dry spell, get adventurous and do it yourself. Get a
strip of metal a foot wide, go up and hand-form a template, and go to a
sheet metal shop and see if they can make you up sticks of gutter with
the same profile. Instead of solder, mastic the joints together
(starting at the drain end, of course), and hold it down with the roof
tiles and screws on the face of the fascia board.

I feel your pain, but look at it from the generic roofer's point of
view- how does he estimate and quote a job like this, if he has never
done it before? And anything weird scares them, from a business point
of view- much higher chance of callbacks and damage to their reputation.
Much easier to stay in their comfort zone, and knock out 2-3 jobs they
can do in their sleep.

--
aem sends...


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