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Default Pressure relief valve

What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the water
line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter. There is some
sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for water to escape on the
bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how can I
adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the water
department and they have assured me that it is my problem because "our pressure
is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things wet in
the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug in the hole to
stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably cause
no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in line.
Anybody have any ideas? Chuck B.

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Default Pressure relief valve

On Feb 6, 5:27*pm, Chuck wrote:
What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the water
line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter. There is some
sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for water to escape on the
bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how can I
adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the water
department and they have assured me that it is my problem because "our pressure
is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things wet in
the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug in the hole to
stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably cause
no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in line.
Anybody have any ideas? * * Chuck B.


How about a photo of it and all the hardware at the service entrance
at your house?

How old is your house & was the plumbing system ever updated to modern
spec?
Do you have a pressure regulator?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-WATTS-3-4-WA...QQcmdZViewItem

Does you system have a back flow preventer ? Dual check valve?
Is is a sealed / one way system? Do you have an expansion tank?

If you have a "sealed" system (ie no back flow allowed) and do not
have an expansion tank......the relief valve will dump water on
occasion to prevent excessive pressure in your domestic water plumbing
due to cold to hot water expansion. When you water heater is
refilled with cold water & that water is heated...it expands. If you
have back flow prevention system you need an expansion tank OR a
relief valve.

Does the relief valve look like this?

http://www.wscdirect.net/servlet/the...STABLE,/Detail

If you're only dumping a few gallons per day (SWAG) I'd say everything
is working fine.

Why do you think your water pressure is too high? Get a water
pressure gage at the hardware store & mount it on a convenient hose
bid...check & log the pressure.

cheers
Bob
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Sac Dave wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the
water line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter.
There is some sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for
water to escape on the bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how
can I adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the
water department and they have assured me that it is my problem because
"our pressure is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things
wet in the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug
in the hole to stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably
cause no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in
line.
Anybody have any ideas? Chuck B.


First you should realize the plumber at home depot is an idiot. The device
is just a pressure regulator. The city pressure is most likely is to high it
might fluctuate at times. It could also be caused by thermal expansion hot
water will expand can cause the pressure to raise . The water is just
pressure being released the adjustment nut dose regulate the pressure best
bet is to leave it alone. you could check the pressure at a hose bib a
plumbing supply could set you up. I would not be to concerned unless it's
blowing off a lot of water the PRV might need to be replaced .



Thanks for your sensible answer. I am in South Fl. so heat expansion
is a possibility. I will check the pressure at the hose bib. (had not thought of
that option.) CB
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Default Pressure relief valve

Rick-Meister wrote:
A pressure relief valve at the main water valve is left over from the
days when they were not required on water heaters. As the water heater
heated the water and it expanded it would pop the relief valve rather
than blow up the house plumbing.

These days water heater manufacturers must install relief valves right
on the heater. Plus, many communities require an expansion tank near
the WH to absorb the expansion.

Some cities also required a one-way check valve to prevent the
expansion from forcing your water back into the city's water supply.
That prevents your house from contaminating the entire community if
something goes wrong at your place.

You have two choices depending on what your city requires these days.
You can either remove the valve and cap off the opening. Or you can
replace the valve with a new one. Of course, that assumes that you
already have a relief valve on the water heater.



Not talking about the prv on the water heater. That is working ok. This prv is
in line as water pipe enters the house. CB
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Default Pressure relief valve

On Feb 7, 3:21*am, BobK207 wrote:
On Feb 6, 9:13*pm, "Sac Dave" wrote:

First you should realize the plumber at home depot is an idiot. The device
is just a pressure regulator. The city pressure is most likely is to high it
might fluctuate at times. It could also be caused by thermal expansion hot
water will expand can cause the pressure to raise . The water is just
pressure being released the *adjustment nut dose regulate the pressure best
bet is to leave it alone. you could check the pressure at a hose bib a
plumbing supply could set you up. I would not be to concerned unless it's
blowing off a lot of water the PRV might need to be replaced .


I was under the impression that pressure reducing valves for domestic
water supplies do not dump water overboard. *


That's right they don't. If they relied on dumping water, just think
what that would mean. If it was set at 60 and the municipal supply
went to 65, how much water would it have to dump? Potentially, it
could spew water all day. Plus, there is no need to dump water to
regulate pressure.



The Watts units I have
installed reduce water pressure to the house but dont dump any water.

Pressure relief valves do dump at times. *PRV can be instead of
expansion tanks (depending how your local folks prefer it done) *or
they can be vestigial PRV's from when TP valves did not come standard
on water heaters.

Per Sac Dave's comment I would suggest that the OP not simply plug the
output.


I wouldn't either, at least until he understands exactly what he
has. Picture? Manufacturer's name, markings?


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Default Pressure relief valve

Water heaters require a T&P valve (they open to excess temperature AND
pressure)
A standard one is 210 deg/150 psi.

p_z
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Default Pressure relief valve

On Feb 7, 4:39*am, Chuck wrote:
Sac Dave wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the
water line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter.
There is some sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for
water to escape on the bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how
can I adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the
water department and they have assured me that it is my problem because
"our pressure is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things
wet in the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug
in the hole to stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably
cause no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in
line.
Anybody have any ideas? * * Chuck B.


First you should realize the plumber at home depot is an idiot. The device
is just a pressure regulator. The city pressure is most likely is to high it
might fluctuate at times. It could also be caused by thermal expansion hot
water will expand can cause the pressure to raise . The water is just
pressure being released the *adjustment nut dose regulate the pressure best
bet is to leave it alone. you could check the pressure at a hose bib a
plumbing supply could set you up. I would not be to concerned unless it's
blowing off a lot of water the PRV might need to be replaced .


Thanks for your sensible answer. I am in South Fl. so heat expansion
is a possibility. I will check the pressure at the hose bib. (had not thought of
that option.) *CB- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It may be, as suggested earlier, a combination Pressure RELIEF and
Pressure Reducer. That is the only way I can see it having both an
adjusting screw (moder Pressure Reliefs don't have one) and an
overboard dump.

Checking the pressure at a hose bib you have to be sure the hose bib
is prior to the PRV to get system pressure and then after the PRV to
get house pressure.

To avoid the water "leakage", replace that vavle with a new one but
you will need to install a surge tank also as the new PRV will not
allow reverse flow.

Harry K

Harry K
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Default Pressure relief valve

Harry K wrote:
On Feb 7, 4:39 am, Chuck wrote:
Sac Dave wrote:
"Chuck" wrote in message
...
What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the
water line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter.
There is some sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for
water to escape on the bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how
can I adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the
water department and they have assured me that it is my problem because
"our pressure is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things
wet in the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug
in the hole to stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably
cause no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in
line.
Anybody have any ideas? Chuck B.
First you should realize the plumber at home depot is an idiot. The device
is just a pressure regulator. The city pressure is most likely is to high it
might fluctuate at times. It could also be caused by thermal expansion hot
water will expand can cause the pressure to raise . The water is just
pressure being released the adjustment nut dose regulate the pressure best
bet is to leave it alone. you could check the pressure at a hose bib a
plumbing supply could set you up. I would not be to concerned unless it's
blowing off a lot of water the PRV might need to be replaced .

Thanks for your sensible answer. I am in South Fl. so heat expansion
is a possibility. I will check the pressure at the hose bib. (had not thought of
that option.) CB- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


It may be, as suggested earlier, a combination Pressure RELIEF and
Pressure Reducer. That is the only way I can see it having both an
adjusting screw (moder Pressure Reliefs don't have one) and an
overboard dump.

Checking the pressure at a hose bib you have to be sure the hose bib
is prior to the PRV to get system pressure and then after the PRV to
get house pressure.

To avoid the water "leakage", replace that vavle with a new one but
you will need to install a surge tank also as the new PRV will not
allow reverse flow.

Harry K

Harry K


Hose bib is after the PRV. I will post the model and or name of the device
latter today. To describe it better: It is T shaped. Right T bar is dial with
knarled knob. Left T bar connects to main water pipe (incoming water). Bottom of
T is open, threaded (female) where water drips out fairly fast.





male thread ---------------------------- knob
water /
/
/
/

opening with female threads
Hope this helps CB
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Default Pressure relief valve


"Chuck" wrote in message
...
What is the purpose of the pressure relief valve that is installed in the
water line coming into my house. It is on my side of the water meter.
There is some sort of an adjustment on the end of it and an opening for
water to escape on the bottom of the device.
Does it actually control the pressure coming into the house? If so, how
can I adjust it to cut the pressure down in my house. I have called the
water department and they have assured me that it is my problem because
"our pressure is always correct".
Water does come out of the relief valve from time to time and gets things
wet in the area it is in. The "plumber" at Home Depot said to put a plug
in the hole to stop the water from coming out.
I have noticed that the pressure is higher in the mid afternoon. Probably
cause no one is home in the neighborhood.
I don't know what the actual pressure is because I don't have a meter in
line.
Anybody have any ideas? Chuck B.



What I did at my house is put a prseure gauge on one of the hose bib after
the PRV I was getting 80psi if you watch the psi will raise very slowly
Thermal expansion. If you check your pressure you will need to get some
fittings, P-gauge as I said earlier a plumbing supply could set you up but
maybe the local water department might check for free. Some PRV blow water
off there basically a safety device to keep you from having problems with
Water closet and fixtures in your house. I have also piped waste lines from
PRV to drains and floor sinks ( mostly in high rises were booster pumps are
used) I really don't think you have a problem if you do notice you water
closets running your pressure might to high then you might need to adjust
the PRV . Now if you do get a gauge to test your Pres. you want to check the
pressure when you using water mines at 80psi but when the water is running
it drops down to about 60PSI.


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Default Pressure relief valve

On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:42:10 GMT, Chuck wrote:

Rick-Meister wrote:
A pressure relief valve at the main water valve is left over from the
days when they were not required on water heaters. As the water heater
heated the water and it expanded it would pop the relief valve rather
than blow up the house plumbing.

These days water heater manufacturers must install relief valves right
on the heater. Plus, many communities require an expansion tank near
the WH to absorb the expansion.

Some cities also required a one-way check valve to prevent the
expansion from forcing your water back into the city's water supply.
That prevents your house from contaminating the entire community if
something goes wrong at your place.

You have two choices depending on what your city requires these days.
You can either remove the valve and cap off the opening. Or you can
replace the valve with a new one. Of course, that assumes that you
already have a relief valve on the water heater.



Not talking about the prv on the water heater. That is working ok. This prv is
in line as water pipe enters the house. CB


I'd venture to guess this is an older house and that PRV is now
superfluous.


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On Feb 7, 9:02*pm, wrote:
On Sat, 07 Feb 2009 12:42:10 GMT, Chuck wrote:
Rick-Meister wrote:
A pressure relief valve at the main water valve is left over from the
days when they were not required on water heaters. As the water heater
heated the water and it expanded it would pop the relief valve rather
than blow up the house plumbing.


These days water heater manufacturers must install relief valves right
on the heater. Plus, many communities require an expansion tank near
the WH to absorb the expansion.


Some cities also required a one-way check valve to prevent the
expansion from forcing your water back into the city's water supply.
That prevents your house from contaminating the entire community if
something goes wrong at your place.


You have two choices depending on what your city requires these days.
You can either remove the valve and cap off the opening. Or you can
replace the valve with a new one. Of course, that assumes that you
already have a relief valve on the water heater.


Not talking about the prv on the water heater. That is working ok. This prv is
in line as water pipe enters the house. CB


I'd venture to guess this is an older house and that PRV is now
superfluous.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Not if it is also a Pressure REDUCING Valve. If the city system
pressure is much over 60psi then I would replace it with a modern one
(and install a surge tank).

Sorta OT but the PRV drain on the water heater should be routed to a
safe drain.

Harry K

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Default Pressure relief valve

On Feb 7, 9:02*pm, wrote:

BIG SNIP

I'd venture to guess this is an older house and that PRV is now
superfluous.



I think that since the OP has an adjustable PRV it is NOT
superfluous.

My parents house has a PRV just outside the house, kitchen sink.
The house was built in 1959 and in those days water heaters (in SoCal)
did not have TP valves.
In this case the original PRV is superfluous.

In my house I installed a Watts pressure reducing valve & a Watts
dual check valve (backflow prevention), the city only requires hose
bib vacuum breakers but my plumber & I figured "what the hell, let's
do the whole house".

Thus I have a closed system......I throttled the city water pressure
down to ~65 psi from about 75+ to reduce water hammer effects. Jay
R. Smith Mfg. Co suggests in their tech info on water hammer to make
sure that water pressure is 65 psi max.

I did as they suggested; distributed water hammer arrestors & 65 psi
max and water hammer is not evident.
But now I no longer have "firehose" performance on my garden hoses. :
(

I chose not to install an expansion tank per discussions with my
plumber, I installed a 75 psi PRV to allow the ~.5 gallon (max)
daily water. Unfortunately the occasion quick shutoff (ball valve
garden hose or lawn sprinkler valves) cause the 75 psi PRV to
activate & the 65 psi city pressure would not allow a re-seat.

I replaced the 75 psi PRV with a WATTS 530C 3/4" ADJUSTABLE PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE.
By boosting the relief pressure to about 85 psi I get thermal
expansion relief but no "gushing dump".

I believe that this long explanation may describe the OP's
circumstances and why his adjsutable PRV should NOT be plugged.
It appears as though it is serving to relieve the thermal expansion in
his house since "Water does come out of the relief valve from time to
time and gets things wet in the area".

but who knows?

cheers
Bob






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