Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Brad

Ok, I had a company come out and look at our
garage door
problem. We moved into this house almost three
years ago
and I installed the opener on one of two wooden
doors for
my wife to use. It worked fine for 2 1/2 years
but
started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and
would stop and change directions. It's gotten
progressively worse. I've posted this recently
so this
is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for
replacing
both the springs and the rollers. I had checked
at
Lowe's and even though they had the right color
springs,
the guy who came out said the diameter DID need
to be the
same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed
that even if
I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to
order
springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of
replacing
the door completely and that cost was about the
same as
replacing rollers and springs on the current
door.
Problem is, the new door wouldn't match the old
so we'd
have to replace both when one doesn't need it
because I
open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on
repairs,
three year on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing
door and
possibly still doing it myself. BTW, my current
door has
the parallel springs so they are easy and
relatively safe
to exchange. The new door that the service guy
proposed
has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can
be the same cost as replacing parts on my
existing door.

Brad

Start with the springs.
Have the rollers ever been cleaned/lubricated? If
they havent' had a flat side worn onto them, just
see that they get cleaned/lubed and are free to
slide around in their mounts. Replace if
necessary but I'll bet it's not.

On Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:08:04 -0800 (PST), BradMM
wrote:

Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use.
...
Brad


I would consider the door replacement simply because wooden
doors tend to require more maintenance and are generally heavier.

Good Luck

BradMM wrote:
....
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above
5. Needs adjustment/alignment and lubricating is (probably) all

Whichever side is high is either binding or the other side spring is
weak relative to (or some of both).

In cold weather lubrication is more of an issue as old grease gets hard
and stuff binds more.

Springs can be adjusted; I'd start w/ the lube/cleaning and make sure
there's nothing binding/rubbing from 3) above and then go from there.

--

Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. Only lube the
shafts. I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.

Brad

BradMM wrote:
Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Brad
Hi,
Just do a tune up and start from there. Manually open.close door and see
what is going on.

BradMM wrote:
Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.


Bother!

Door springs are like the One Horse Shay - they might break, but it's highly
unlikely they'll "wear out."

Door springs can be adjusted to proved more or less tension - actually the
attaching points, not the springs themselves. Try increasing the tension on
the laggard side or decreasing the tension on the non-laggard side.

As to your possibilities:
* Springs need replacing - If the springs are intact, they don't need
replacing
* Rollers need replacing - If they're round and roll, they don't need
replacing
* Garage has shifted - There ought to be other evidence: cracked sheetrock,
cracked brick joints, etc.
* Combination - Nah

Other possibilities:
* Rollers binding due to gunk in the tracks, roller flat spots, twisted
tracks, etc.
* Opener not centered

Try this to diagnose the difficulty:
* Disconnect door from opener and move the door by hand. Where's the
problem?

BradMM wrote:
Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. Only lube the
shafts. I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.

WD40 is primarily _not_ a lubricant. It works initially pretty well,
but that is simply the result of the carrier/primary component being,
essentially, kerosene. Once it evaporates, there's very little left.
Silicone is good choice.

The problem w/ dirt is potentially a problem, granted; but...
Running completely dry also causes wear altho a primary problem often is
if they have had lubricant in the past it has hardened and especially in
cold weather becomes a drag rather than an aid. Cleaning that out and
some fresh, non-stick lube will help (and may well solve the entire
problems if that's a prime cause).

--

BradMM wrote:
Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. Only lube the
shafts. I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.

Brad

WD40 is a total waste of time as a lubricant. It only contains light
aromatics that quickly evaporate and leave gummy varnish behind.

On Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:08:04 -0800 (PST), BradMM
wrote:

Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Brad

I guess I don't get why you are not doing the obvious. Unhook the
drive and put yourself in place of it and manually open and close the
door.

You'll be able to determine if the springs create enough
counterbalance. You'll should be able to tell if the two
counterbalance springs seem unequal. You'll be able to tell if
there is a specific spot in travel that is causing the bind. You'll
be able to tell if the door gets out of square. Multiple observations
will track down the source.

Or you can do as the repair people want. You can replace everything
and thus automatically fix your problem without ever having to go
through the trouble of identifying it.

On Jan 28, 11:13*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
BradMM wrote:
Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. *We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. *It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. *It's gotten progressively
worse. *I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. *springs need replacing
2. *rollers need replacing
3. *garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. *some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. *I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. *So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. *Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. *90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. *BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. *The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Bother!

Door springs are like the One Horse Shay - they might break, but it's highly
unlikely they'll "wear out."

Door springs can be adjusted to proved more or less tension - actually the
attaching points, not the springs themselves. Try increasing the tension on
the laggard side or decreasing the tension on the non-laggard side.

As to your possibilities:
* Springs need replacing - If the springs are intact, they don't need
replacing
* Rollers need replacing - If they're round and roll, they don't need
replacing
* Garage has shifted - There ought to be other evidence: cracked sheetrock,
cracked brick joints, etc.
* Combination - Nah

Other possibilities:
* Rollers binding due to gunk in the tracks, roller flat spots, twisted
tracks, etc.
* Opener not centered

Try this to diagnose the difficulty:
* Disconnect door from opener and move the door by hand. Where's the
problem?

Great stuff! I have opened and closed it by hand many times and it's
not smooth but I can't pinpoint anything specific.

The opener was centered enough for years but I'll check again.

We had piers installed on the back and sides of the house when we
moved in - stabilized but not leveled - so I doubt that's the problem
unless the garage corner can move more than I think it can with
showing signs elsewhere, which it hasn't.

On Jan 28, 12:47*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:08:04 -0800 (PST), BradMM
wrote:



Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. *We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. *It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. *It's gotten progressively
worse. *I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. *springs need replacing
2. *rollers need replacing
3. *garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. *some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. *I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. *So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. *Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. *90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. *BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. *The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Brad

I guess I don't get why you are not doing the obvious. Unhook the
drive and put yourself in place of it and manually open and close the
door.

You'll be able to determine if the springs create enough
counterbalance. You'll should be able to tell if the two
counterbalance springs seem unequal. You'll be able to tell if
there is a specific spot in travel that is causing the bind. You'll
be able to *tell if the door gets out of square. Multiple observations
will track down the source.

Or you can do as the repair people want. You can replace everything
and thus automatically fix your problem without ever having to go
through the trouble of identifying it.

I have done the obvious (see above).

The very thing you said about replacing everything without ever
diagnosing the real problem is why I'm NOT having them do anything. I
can change our parts or even install a new one if needed.

On Jan 28, 9:27*am, dpb wrote:

snip

Four possible problems:
1. *springs need replacing
2. *rollers need replacing
3. *garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. *some combination of the above
5. *Needs adjustment/alignment and lubricating is (probably) all

snip

You haven't done anything to eliminate No. 3 except walk around and
eyeball it for major problems. A pro would do the following: a) check
left and right openings for plumb on front and sides. That's four
readings. b) Check the finished opening for square by measuring the
diagonals. That's two readings. Total time, 5 minutes. If everything
checks out, it's a door problem, if not, address your structural
problems, then deal with the door. Seems pretty simple to do and
eliminates an element of doubt.

Joe

On Jan 28, 1:38*pm, George wrote:
BradMM wrote:
Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. *Only lube the
shafts. *I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. *I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.

Brad

WD40 is a total waste of time as a lubricant. It only contains light
aromatics that quickly evaporate and leave gummy varnish behind.

People that replaced my old wooden garage doors with steel ones told
me to lubricate every 6 months with WD40.
I also use it on guns and have never seen a gummy varnish left behind.

"BradMM" wrote in message
...
Ok, I had a company come out and look at our garage door problem. We
moved into this house almost three years ago and I installed the
opener on one of two wooden doors for my wife to use. It worked fine
for 2 1/2 years but started getting cock-eyed as it went up and down
and would stop and change directions. It's gotten progressively
worse. I've posted this recently so this is a repeat.

Four possible problems:
1. springs need replacing
2. rollers need replacing
3. garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. some combination of the above

I got an estimate that seemed reasonable for replacing both the
springs and the rollers. I had checked at Lowe's and even though they
had the right color springs, the guy who came out said the diameter
DID need to be the same and Lowe's were smaller. So, it seemed that
even if I wanted to do it myself, I'd still have to order springs.

What shocked me was he also gave an estimate of replacing the door
completely and that cost was about the same as replacing rollers and
springs on the current door. Problem is, the new door wouldn't match
the old so we'd have to replace both when one doesn't need it because
I open and close it manually. 90 day warranty on repairs, three year
on replacement.

I'm leaning toward just repairing the existing door and possibly still
doing it myself. BTW, my current door has the parallel springs so
they are easy and relatively safe to exchange. The new door that the
service guy proposed has torsion springs so I'm befuddled as to how
that can be the same cost as replacing parts on my existing door.

Brad

Lubricate the rollers and the drive mechanism (chain / worm gear/ ?) on the
garage door opener. I use engine oil on the rollers but you may find
something better. If you still have a problem adjust the tension on the
springs. Measure the length of the springs, assuming they are mounted the
same distance from the door, then they should be about the same length, if
not adjust.

Springs stretch out and loose their elasticity. You can usually get one or
two adjustments out of a pair of springs before they need to be replaced.
The correct adjustment should allow you to lift and close the door with one
hand (with the Opener detached).

If you delay in repairing the problem, you may wear out/damage Opener.

Cheers,
Jim

"Van Chocstraw"...
...... to hell with matching doors.

Gotta have matching doors if you are married and want to remain married.
Tomes

Frank wrote:
On Jan 28, 1:38 pm, George wrote:
BradMM wrote:
Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. Only lube the
shafts. I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.
Brad
WD40 is a total waste of time as a lubricant. It only contains light
aromatics that quickly evaporate and leave gummy varnish behind.

People that replaced my old wooden garage doors with steel ones told
me to lubricate every 6 months with WD40.
I also use it on guns and have never seen a gummy varnish left behind.
Hi,
Again WD-40 is not a lubricant. I use Teflon based spray lubricant
sparingly. Also I dab springs with oil(automotive 30 weight) to minimize
metal fatigue. After 15 years(house was built in '94), my door works as
good as new. I had to replace a section in the insulated Steelcraft door
because my kid and his friends put a big ugly looking dent with hockey
puck.

On Jan 28, 4:56*pm, "Tomes" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw"...

...... to hell with matching doors.

Gotta have matching doors if you are married and want to remain married.
Tomes

So buy two doors...problem solved.

Joe

On Jan 28, 6:28*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:

snip

I had to replace a section in the insulated Steelcraft door
because my kid and his friends put a big ugly looking dent with hockey
puck.

Bondo would have made it like new in no time. Think of the money you
could have saved!

Joe

On Jan 28, 1:29*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jan 28, 9:27*am, dpb wrote:

snip
Four possible problems:
1. *springs need replacing
2. *rollers need replacing
3. *garage/house has shifted due to drought
4. *some combination of the above
5. *Needs adjustment/alignment and lubricating is (probably) all
snip

You haven't done anything to eliminate No. 3 except walk around and
eyeball it for major problems. A pro would do the following: a) check
left and right openings for plumb on front and sides. That's four
readings. b) Check the finished opening for square by measuring the
diagonals. That's two readings. Total time, 5 minutes. If everything
checks out, it's a door problem, if not, address your structural
problems, then deal with the door. Seems pretty simple to do and
eliminates an element of doubt.

Joe

Good stuff, Joe but, with the house already having settled when we
moved in, I still won't know how it might have changed in the past
year when we've dropped to almost 20" below normal rainfall. Still,
good suggestion and I'll take a look at it.

On Jan 28, 4:56*pm, "Tomes" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw"...

...... to hell with matching doors.

Gotta have matching doors if you are married and want to remain married.
Tomes

Amen!!!

"Joe" ...
"Tomes" wrote:
"Van Chocstraw"...

...... to hell with matching doors.

Gotta have matching doors if you are married and want to remain married.
Tomes

So buy two doors...problem solved.
==================
That's what I did.
Tomes

"Frank" wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 1:38 pm, George wrote:
BradMM wrote:
Ironically, the guy who came out told me that lubricating the rollers
at the bearings was one of the causes of them wearing out because it
causes dirt and grit to stick which grinds them down. Only lube the
shafts. I'd sprayed WD40 on them many times but didn't seem to make
any difference. I wondered if that was the proper lubricant and he
said use a silicon spray.

Brad

WD40 is a total waste of time as a lubricant. It only contains light
aromatics that quickly evaporate and leave gummy varnish behind.

People that replaced my old wooden garage doors with steel ones told
me to lubricate every 6 months with WD40.
I also use it on guns and have never seen a gummy varnish left behind.

i was always told to use silicon. not wd40.

--
C.D