I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

On Jan 9, 11:30*am, Larry Weil wrote:
I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. *This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. *The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. *Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. *The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. *A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. *I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? *Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. *Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

Fiberglass is about R 3.5 per inch, you dont say what was there before
but R 21 isnt much. The code for your area is a minimum needed amount,
not optimal. How cold does your area get, I am Zone 5 to -20f and R60
is good, but I have alot more than that. Find your temp zone map,
www.energystar.gov has good ideas and links to start at. For optimal
values look at insulation co sites lie Dow, Certainteed, they have
maps. Also google how fiberglass looses R value at cold temperatures,
that fact and the fact the 6" you put in has settled means you
probably dont have what you think you have. For walls I have read
about Cellulose with glue that is pumped in damp and wont settle, the
fiberglass in walls will settle. I had my walls foamed, that insulated
better than anything else. If you can afford it an energy audit it
should be done, maybe your utility does them free. A blower door test
for about 350 will pinpoint air leaks, I think mine paid for itself in
a year from all the hidden holes I had. If you get walls blown in,
have in the contract that if a Thermal Imaging camera finds any
defects of the instal he fixes them free or gives you your money back.
Thermal Imaging before and after is the only way to find many issues.

On Jan 9, 11:30*am, Larry Weil wrote:
I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. *This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. *The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. *Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. *The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. *A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. *I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? *Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

These systems use plugs to seal up the siding holes after the
insulation is blown in. Had it done on an old house of ours and the
plugs looked awful. The insulation, however, worked great. Treated
cellulose fiber is more common in our area, and it does settle.
Fiberglass loses R value if compacted too much; that may be a concern.

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. *Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

a) They have more work than they can handle.
b) Taking time to call takes time from the work.
c) If you call a second time they'll know you're serious.
d) The further east and the bigger the city, the less courteous people
are.

If the appearance of the siding is important, the alternative is
redoing the drywall and using standard fiberglass batts on the inside.
That might be tempting if you have other upgrades you want to do, like
electrical outlets, or plumbing or remodeling. Consider your
priorities, prices and expected results and choose what you feel is
best. HTH

Joe

"Larry Weil" wrote in message
...

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?


No doubt with the home building and construction businesses booming like
they are today, they're just too busy....

Larry Weil wrote:

I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

I'd suggest that depending on the construction details it may not be all
that difficult to either excavate the crawl space out to say 24" where
it is workable, and / or to lift the entire house to the same effect.

For the blown in fiberglass in the walls, I believe there is a version
with a slightly sticky binder included that helps lock things in place
once it's blown in.

A good starting point for everything however is a simple blower door
test and / or thermal IR camera survey to identify air leaks and the
worst insulated spots so you can triage and prioritize your actions.

Don't underestimate the value of servicing the furnace and having the
registers balanced. It is also possible to zone the heating system.

The clue is feeling warm, no matter how high you turn the heat. Please get a
humidifier, if you don't have one already. Some moisture makes a major
difference. Table top models at chain stores, or have your heating guy
install an Aprilaire on your furnace.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Larry Weil" wrote in message
...
I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

Joe wrote:

On Jan 9, 11:30*am, Larry Weil wrote:
-snip-
the walls. *The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. *A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.
-snip-
These systems use plugs to seal up the siding holes after the
insulation is blown in. Had it done on an old house of ours and the
plugs looked awful. The insulation, however, worked great. Treated
cellulose fiber is more common in our area, and it does settle.
Fiberglass loses R value if compacted too much; that may be a concern.

I prefer cellulose myself- but if the contractor prefers fiberglass
I'd rather have a well done job with fiberglass than an 'ok' job with
cellulose. It is a bit of an art to pack it well enough to not
settle- but loose enough to still insulate.

Be sure the contractor is going to lift the vinyl & drill holes only
in the wood siding underneath. [you might need to wait until spring so
the vinyl doesn't just crack all to hell]


BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. *Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

a) They have more work than they can handle.
b) Taking time to call takes time from the work.
c) If you call a second time they'll know you're serious.
d) The further east and the bigger the city, the less courteous people
are.


I agree with a,b,c
If the appearance of the siding is important, the alternative is
redoing the drywall and using standard fiberglass batts on the inside.

Or doing the holes on the inside-- it tears up the whole inside- but
this time of year might be an option.

Jim

forget the fiberglass. You need cellulose. Called 'drill and fill'. And it
can be done with one hole in each stud cavity. Keep calling around 'till
you find someone who does it. If the house is fairly old, you may be able
to do the gable ends from the attic. The cavities are usually open to the
attic on the gable ends. Saves some drilling.

s


"Larry Weil" wrote in message
...
I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

On Jan 9, 1:17*pm, Bubba wrote:
On Fri, 9 Jan 2009 10:16:14 -0800 (PST), ransley





wrote:
On Jan 9, 11:30*am, Larry Weil wrote:
I have an older house that was originally a summer house, but was later
converted to year-round use, located in North Salem, NH.

A few years ago I had six inches of blown-in fiberglass added to the
attic, on top of what insulation was already there. *This helped a bit,
especially in the summer, but in the winter the temperature is still
quite uneven, and in real cold weather it is impossible to be
comfortable no matter how high I turn the heat. *The heat is oil fired
forced hot air. *Underneath the house in an uninsulated (but blocked
off) crawl space that is less than a foot deep, so it would be
impossible for anyone to go in there to insulate the floor.

I had an insulation contractor in today for an estimate on insulating
the walls. *The walls have vinyl siding, and the only insulation is the
foam board under the siding. *A couple of years ago I had the bathtub
replaced, and when it was out I could see the sheathing with no
insulation on the inside.

This contractor proposes blown-in fiberglass insulation. *I asked him
about potential problems from the fiberglass settling, and he said what
they do is a two hole system, where that make holes and blow in
fiberglass from both the top and bottom of the wall, and that will
compact it enough that it won¹t settle enough to be a problem.

My question is if this is really a good way to go, if the two hole
system really works to prevent the insulation from settling and forming
a gap at the top? *Has anyone here had that done and has it worked?

BTW, I called three insulation contractors, and the one that came was
the only one of the three that bothered to return my call. *Why do these
guys bother to advertise if they¹re not going to return your call?

--
Larry Weil
Lake Wobegone, NH

Fiberglass is about R 3.5 per inch, you dont say what was there before
but R 21 isnt much. The code for your area is a minimum needed amount,
not optimal. How cold does your area get, I am Zone 5 to -20f and R60
is good, but I have alot more than that. Find your temp zone map,
www.energystar.govhas good ideas and links to start at. For optimal
values look at insulation co sites lie Dow, Certainteed, they have
maps. Also google how fiberglass looses R value at cold temperatures,
that fact and the fact the 6" you put in has settled means you
probably dont have what you think you have. For walls I have read
about Cellulose with glue that is pumped in damp and wont settle, the
fiberglass in walls will settle. I had my walls foamed, that insulated
better than anything else. If you can afford it an energy audit it
should be done, maybe your utility does them free. A blower door test
for about 350 will pinpoint air leaks, I think mine paid for itself in
a year from all the hidden holes I had. *If you get walls blown in,
have in the contract that if a Thermal Imaging camera finds any
defects of the instal he fixes them free or gives you your money back.
Thermal Imaging before and after is the only way to find many issues.

R-60 is good and you have a lot more than that??!!
hehe. ransley, you again havent a clue what you are talking about.
You can easily confirm this by doing a load calculation.
In a ceiling, when you go from no insulation to the first 3 inches,
you will gain your biggest energy savings. After that, whatever you
add is only marginal. NOW, before you get that statement all out of
whack, Im NOT suggesting that you only put 3 inches of insulation in
your attic no matter where you live. I would go with what is
recommended in your area but adding some ridiculous amount like you
have done is just a total waste of money. Just like you though. Spend
a few hundred extra to save a nickel. You should have checked with
someone that knows what they are doing before you burned up your money
like that. You could have saved that money and spent it on your crack
habit.
Bubba- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Buuba your statements just show what kind of ignorant idiot you are.