A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the only
common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240 volt
range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by all
outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the conductor
connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was cool to the
touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A bad connection
(factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel buss, over time
caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss and the copper
contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg

"RBM" wrote in message
...
A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the
only common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240
volt range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by
all outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the
conductor connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was
cool to the touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A
bad connection (factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel
buss, over time caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss
and the copper contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg



Thanks for posting Roy. Did you have to change the load center?

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...
A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the
only common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a
240 volt range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of
other circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I
start with the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The
overhead service connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the
main circuit breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit
breaker, which by all outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox
paste on the conductor connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and
the breaker was cool to the touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem
became clear. A bad connection (factory) between one pole of the breaker
and the panel buss, over time caused overheating and annealing of both
the panel buss and the copper contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg



Thanks for posting Roy. Did you have to change the load center?

Yes, that one section of buss was shot. My picture doesn't show how
discolored it is was where the breaker connected to it. This is the 3rd
Murray main breaker go bad this way that I've seen in this past year. The
other two showed up in time to save the buss.

RBM wrote:

A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the only
common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240 volt
range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by all
outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the conductor
connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was cool to the
touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A bad connection
(factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel buss, over time
caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss and the copper
contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg

Eeew! This is why I stick with Square D QO equipment. Even then I do
inspect items as I'm assembling and installing them.

On Dec 1, 4:27*pm, "RBM" wrote:
A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the only
common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240 volt
range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by all
outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the conductor
connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was cool to the
touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A bad connection
(factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel buss, over time
caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss and the copper
contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...%20Breaker%20p...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...%20Breaker%20p...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...%20Breaker%20p...

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...%20Breaker%20p...

Well that's one for the books. Nice pics, too.

Joe

A couple friends of mine were having power problems in their home. Their
panel box was modern, can't remember what brand. Anyhow, the mains power
came in through a double 100 breaker. There was a lot of white oxidation
where the breaker connected to the panel. Myself, and the resident used
strap on head lamps, to see. Turn off the main breaker, and unsnap it from
the panel. Tough to do, it was plenty corroded on. Clean the distribution
bars with sand screen. Pump a bunch of anti oxidant into the open slot end
of the breaker, and put it all back together. No further problems.

Those are very good picture. Thanks for posting. The repair I did, was
before I got my digicam.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...
A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the only
common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240 volt
range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by all
outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the conductor
connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was cool to the
touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A bad connection
(factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel buss, over time
caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss and the copper
contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg

That does look like an older design.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...


Thanks for posting Roy. Did you have to change the load center?

Third this year? You are an electrician?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...




Thanks for posting Roy. Did you have to change the load center?

Yes, that one section of buss was shot. My picture doesn't show how
discolored it is was where the breaker connected to it. This is the 3rd
Murray main breaker go bad this way that I've seen in this past year. The
other two showed up in time to save the buss.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
A couple friends of mine were having power problems in their home. Their
panel box was modern, can't remember what brand. Anyhow, the mains power
came in through a double 100 breaker. There was a lot of white oxidation
where the breaker connected to the panel. Myself, and the resident used
strap on head lamps, to see. Turn off the main breaker, and unsnap it from
the panel. Tough to do, it was plenty corroded on. Clean the distribution
bars with sand screen. Pump a bunch of anti oxidant into the open slot end
of the breaker, and put it all back together. No further problems.

As long as you catch it before the buss metal is destroyed from overheating
that'll work. These Murray panels have bolt on main breakers, installed at
the factory. There was some antiox on the connection, so my guess is that
it's just a poor design. Murray no longer uses this type of main breaker.




Those are very good picture. Thanks for posting. The repair I did, was
before I got my digicam.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"RBM" wrote in message
...
A customer called with an intermittent electrical problem: The electric
range and refrigerator on occasion stop working, then start working for no
apparent reason.
It's obvious that one of the hot legs is opening, as that would be the
only
common denominator between a 120 volt refrigerator circuit, and a 240 volt
range circuit. The customer was also unaware of a multitude of other
circuits that were also dead. Usually when I get these calls, I start with
the connections in the most hostile environment, 1) The overhead service
connections, 2) The outdoor meter socket, then check the main circuit
breaker. In this case the culprit was the main circuit breaker, which by
all
outward appearance, looks fine. There was antiox paste on the conductor
connections, no hissing or crackling sounds, and the breaker was cool to
the
touch. Upon removing the breaker, the problem became clear. A bad
connection
(factory) between one pole of the breaker and the panel buss, over time
caused overheating and annealing of both the panel buss and the copper
contact of the breaker. Pictures to follow:
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage006.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage008.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage003.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b9...ldamage005.jpg

Must have caught this one, in time. Worked till they day they moved. Which
was a couple months later.

Did you shut off the mains, by pulling the meter or something?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
the panel. Tough to do, it was plenty corroded on. Clean the distribution
bars with sand screen. Pump a bunch of anti oxidant into the open slot end
of the breaker, and put it all back together. No further problems.

As long as you catch it before the buss metal is destroyed from overheating
that'll work. These Murray panels have bolt on main breakers, installed at
the factory. There was some antiox on the connection, so my guess is that
it's just a poor design. Murray no longer uses this type of main breaker.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Must have caught this one, in time. Worked till they day they moved. Which
was a couple months later.

Did you shut off the mains, by pulling the meter or something?

I have two electric companies in my area. One installs case hardened locks
on the meter boxes, the other just uses a wire tag. With the locks, I have
to cut the overhead conductors, then rebug them when I'm finished. This one
was a tag type, so I just pulled the meter

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
the panel. Tough to do, it was plenty corroded on. Clean the distribution
bars with sand screen. Pump a bunch of anti oxidant into the open slot
end
of the breaker, and put it all back together. No further problems.

As long as you catch it before the buss metal is destroyed from
overheating
that'll work. These Murray panels have bolt on main breakers, installed at
the factory. There was some antiox on the connection, so my guess is that
it's just a poor design. Murray no longer uses this type of main breaker.

Yes, that does sound safer than working on live circuit box. The power co in
my area uses Highfield barrel locks. Some of the meters have the metal tag
with the serial number on it. They are pretty good about coming out to pull
meters as needed, if an electrician is working.

Cut the overhead feed wires sounds do-able if you have the right insulated
cutters, and have whatever butt connector crimps are needed to put the wires
together. I'm not sure I've got the courage or confidence to be cutting high
amp wires like that.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Must have caught this one, in time. Worked till they day they moved. Which
was a couple months later.

Did you shut off the mains, by pulling the meter or something?

I have two electric companies in my area. One installs case hardened locks
on the meter boxes, the other just uses a wire tag. With the locks, I have
to cut the overhead conductors, then rebug them when I'm finished. This one
was a tag type, so I just pulled the meter