Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

hi everyone,
i'm in the process of framing the walls for my 10x15 shed. I have 2
questions.

i'm using a framing nail gun (3.5 in) I have a ton of galvanized nails
left over from the foundation and I would like to use them. The
galvanized I bought for the pressure treated wood, but they won't hurt
the regular non treated pine studs of the walls - correct? my other
question is, when fastening a stud to the top and bottom plates - do I
use 1 nail or 2? I feel like one would allow the stud to spin in it's
place. Thanks everyone!

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

On Nov 22, 9:46�am, RedDwarf wrote:
hi everyone,
i'm in the process of framing the walls for my 10x15 shed. I have 2
questions.

i'm using a framing nail gun (3.5 in) I have a ton of galvanized nails
left over from the foundation and I would like to use them. The
galvanized I bought for the pressure treated wood, but they won't hurt
the regular non treated pine studs of the walls - correct? my other
question is, when fastening a stud to the top and bottom plates - do I
use 1 nail or 2? I feel like one would allow the stud to spin in it's
place. Thanks everyone!

galavinized is fine for regular wood, however the new pressure treated
is highly corrosive, will rot out galaVANIZED NAILS.

USE STANLESS ONLY FOR NEW PT.

use 2 nails .... for studs.

i prefer deck screws, far stronger and quiet going in

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

On Nov 22, 6:46*am, RedDwarf wrote:
hi everyone,
i'm in the process of framing the walls for my 10x15 shed. I have 2
questions.

i'm using a framing nail gun (3.5 in) I have a ton of galvanized nails
left over from the foundation and I would like to use them. The
galvanized I bought for the pressure treated wood, but they won't hurt
the regular non treated pine studs of the walls - correct? my other
question is, when fastening a stud to the top and bottom plates - do I
use 1 nail or 2? I feel like one would allow the stud to spin in it's
place. Thanks everyone!


Galvanized nails in this application are fine.

I assume, since this is a small shed, your going to construct the wall
frames (at least some of them) laying down. Firing 2 nails per stud
at the sil & 2 nails per stud at the top plate (16 commons or 16d
"shorts"), is pretty much standard.

Studs that are installed when the "sill" is already set to the
foundation (stem wall or slab) get three 8d toe nails at the sill &
two 16's at the single top plate.

The second top plate is then nailled to the wall upon assembly
(usually two 16's per stud bay)

but again this is a shed not a single family home.

In reality, how is the frame is nailed together is pretty
inconsequential (with reason, no finish nails or brads), the real
strength of the shed will come from the sheathing
material....hopefully plywood or OSB

and how the corner connections are made.

The framing nails pretty much just hold the frame together until the
skins go on.

Consider a decent exterior wrap material,it'll make the shed last
longer and maybe even wall insulation depending on you local climate
(might become a work room?)

cheers
Bob

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

hot dipped galvanized are fine for the new treated wood.

s


wrote in message
...

galavinized is fine for regular wood, however the new pressure treated
is highly corrosive, will rot out galaVANIZED NAILS.

USE STANLESS ONLY FOR NEW PT.

use 2 nails .... for studs.

i prefer deck screws, far stronger and quiet going in

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

On Nov 22, 10:17*am, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:
hot dipped galvanized are fine for the new treated wood.

s

wrote in message

...

galavinized is fine for regular wood, however the new pressure treated
is highly corrosive, will rot out galaVANIZED NAILS.

USE STANLESS ONLY FOR NEW PT.

use 2 nails .... for studs.

i prefer deck screws, far stronger and quiet going in

Even spiffier, construction screws with Torx (star) drive put in with
a Makita impact driver. For those who like maximum overkill.

Joe

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

i'm in the process of framing the walls for my 10x15 shed. I have 2
questions.
when fastening a stud to the top and bottom plates - do I
use 1 nail or 2? I feel like one would allow the stud to
spin in it's place.

Use 2 nails for 2x4 studs, and 3 nails for 2x6 studs.

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

On Nov 22, 9:46*am, RedDwarf wrote:
hi everyone,
i'm in the process of framing the walls for my 10x15 shed. I have 2
questions.

i'm using a framing nail gun (3.5 in) I have a ton of galvanized nails
left over from the foundation and I would like to use them. The
galvanized I bought for the pressure treated wood, but they won't hurt
the regular non treated pine studs of the walls - correct? my other
question is, when fastening a stud to the top and bottom plates - do I
use 1 nail or 2? I feel like one would allow the stud to spin in it's
place. Thanks everyone!

Thanks for everyone's input. It's much appreciated. Yes, I will be
framing them laying on the foundation of the shed and raising them. So
I think i'm good to go... Thanks again!

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

On 2008-11-22, RedDwarf wrote:

my other question is, when fastening a stud to the top and bottom
plates - do I use 1 nail or 2?

You use 2 or 3 depending on the nail diameter. I suggest taking a
look at a building code fastening schedule, if you google "fastening
schedule" you should find something appropriate. 2006 UBC Table
2304.9.1 specifies for stud to sole plate:

endnail toenail
(2) 16d common (3.5" x 0.162") (4) 8d common (2.5" x 0.131")
(3) 3" x 0.131" nails (4) 3" x 0.131" nails
(3) 3" 14 gage staples (3) 3" 14 gage staples

Cheers, Wayne

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

old PT had zero troubles with galavanized screws and evstud hangers
for floor beams.

new PT attacks and dissolves regular steel and even galvanized screws
etc.

one day you will wonder why your shed or deck is falling apart..

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

deck screws might not actually be stronger than nails. They are hardened
and will often snap rather than bend as a nail will under stress. Try this:
drive a deck screw into a piece of wood about 1/2 way. Then strike it from
the side with a hammer. It will probably snap off cleanly at the wood. Do
the same with a 16p nail and it will bend but not break. Of course a
screw might not pull straight out as easily as nail, particularly if the
nail is 'worried' in when installed (hit 10 times with the hammer rather the
2-3 times), but the strength of the joint has to be in all directions not
just the opposite direction to the way the fastener was installed.


"Steve Barker DLT" wrote in message
...
hot dipped galvanized are fine for the new treated wood.

s


wrote in message
...

galavinized is fine for regular wood, however the new pressure treated
is highly corrosive, will rot out galaVANIZED NAILS.

USE STANLESS ONLY FOR NEW PT.

use 2 nails .... for studs.

i prefer deck screws, far stronger and quiet going in

Framing shed walls, 2 nails per stud?
 

When we build ramps, we use fasteners that are ACQ certified, whether
using screws or nails. The nails are hot-dipped galvanized, NOT
electro-galvanized (a very thin wash of coating that does not last
long).

We tried the stainless screws but the shanks and square-drive slots
would occasionally twist out and could not be driven further. We use
volunteer labor, so that's a factor when driving the 3" screws whether
stainless or otherwise.
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