This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

On Nov 17, 12:20*pm, Phil Again wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless
drills
and

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years

I guess that implies that the other's lasted at least that long, which
means you've held onto 1 dead drill for 12 years, another for 9 and a
third for 6, assuming sequential purchases.

Seems like a waste of space.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?


for $30, you can buy a cheap 110vac drill.

Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Are they plugged into the wall recptacle?

On Nov 17, 11:20*am, Phil Again wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

Get the packs rebuilt, or get a new drill, Ridgid has lifetime
warranty on even batteries. But you could be over discharging,
overcharging and knowing HF they were not Sanyo or panasonic cells
which are used in good equipment. If used 3 years alot you may just
have gotten their expected life out of them. Think of these new LiIon
drills that dont last as many years as Nicad and will cost 80-120 for
a new pack, yes they make their most money on new packs.

Phil Again wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I have a cordless drill that batteries kept dieing on so I converted it
to plug into a car cigarette lighter. I went down to the local battery
place that sells 12 volt DC batteries for computer backup power supplies
and bought one for $22.00 and use a car battery trickle charger to
charge it. It holds a charge for a long time.

When the drill needs extra power for a job I use a power converter to
convert 120 volt AC to 18 volt DC and attach it to the battery I bought
and together they give me all the sustained power needed for almost any
job.

I also converted a video camera to use a standard 12 volt car adapter
to convert to 9 volts and using that battery I never have to worry
about not having enough power.

Rigging this up isn't as much trouble as it might sound.

Murdock

On Nov 17, 7:03*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again





wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I'd lile to just find plugs to go where the batteries plug in.
Several of my dead drills are 12V. *I could run them off a car battery
or a mortocycle battery which would bea easier to carry around.

I agree, they are made to be thrown away and add more trash to our
dumps which will never decompose since it's mostly plastic.

I dont evn own a cordless drill anymore. *I can always run a cord to
use a 120V plug in drill, which is much cheaper to buy, and they dont
run out of power halfway thru the job.

The last cordless I owned really ****ed me off. *I was trying to
finish screwing on a sheet of tin siding on my barn, which had to be
finished or the wind would have destroyed it. *It was pouring rain,
high winds, and I'm outside getting soaked. *The job would have been
finished if I had not had to recharge the battery 3 or 4 times during
the job. *That damn battery was weak and would only install about 15
screws before needing a recharge. *I had about 6 screws to do, when
the battery died. *I whipped the drill against the concrete below the
ladder and watched it smash into a few hundred pieces. *Since I could
not drag a cord and 120v drill out in that rain, I had to finish the
job with a nutdriver. *I was really ****ed, and glad that drill met
it's reward in hell. *I will never buy another one.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Early in your post you said: "I can always run a cord to use a 120V
plug in drill"

And then you followed up with "Since I could not drag a cord and 120v
drill out in that rain..."

I guess "always" was a bit overstated, wasn't it?

wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13�pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...&cat=2&id=...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells.

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.

On Nov 18, 1:28*am, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 19:38:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03





wrote:
On Nov 17, 7:03*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again

wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I'd lile to just find plugs to go where the batteries plug in.
Several of my dead drills are 12V. *I could run them off a car battery
or a mortocycle battery which would bea easier to carry around.

I agree, they are made to be thrown away and add more trash to our
dumps which will never decompose since it's mostly plastic.

I dont evn own a cordless drill anymore. *I can always run a cord to
use a 120V plug in drill, which is much cheaper to buy, and they dont
run out of power halfway thru the job.

The last cordless I owned really ****ed me off. *I was trying to
finish screwing on a sheet of tin siding on my barn, which had to be
finished or the wind would have destroyed it. *It was pouring rain,
high winds, and I'm outside getting soaked. *The job would have been
finished if I had not had to recharge the battery 3 or 4 times during
the job. *That damn battery was weak and would only install about 15
screws before needing a recharge. *I had about 6 screws to do, when
the battery died. *I whipped the drill against the concrete below the
ladder and watched it smash into a few hundred pieces. *Since I could
not drag a cord and 120v drill out in that rain, I had to finish the
job with a nutdriver. *I was really ****ed, and glad that drill met
it's reward in hell. *I will never buy another one.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Early in your post you said: "I can always run a cord to use a 120V
plug in drill"

And then you followed up with "Since I could not drag a cord and 120v
drill out in that rain..."

I guess "always" was a bit overstated, wasn't it?

OK, you're right. *I can always use a 120V drill, EXCEPT in pouring
rain. *Just a bit too dangerous. *Maybe with a GFI I would have tried
it, but there are none in that building. *I should probably invest in
one of those portable GFIs.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Just a suggestion re a GFI equipped extension cord.
We had one older style GFI duplex outlet that is capable only of
protecting anything plugged into it.
It is not, like more modern ones, capable of protecting other
'downstream' outlets.
Fixing up an extension cable of reasonably heavy gauge, we placed that
GFI on the end of it.
So we now have a GFI equipped extension cord/cable which can be
plugged into any outlet; inside the house for example and run out
through a window etc. for safe use outside.

On Nov 18, 4:31*am, terry wrote:
On Nov 18, 1:28*am, wrote:





On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 19:38:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

wrote:
On Nov 17, 7:03*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again

wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I'd lile to just find plugs to go where the batteries plug in.
Several of my dead drills are 12V. *I could run them off a car battery
or a mortocycle battery which would bea easier to carry around.

I agree, they are made to be thrown away and add more trash to our
dumps which will never decompose since it's mostly plastic.

I dont evn own a cordless drill anymore. *I can always run a cord to
use a 120V plug in drill, which is much cheaper to buy, and they dont
run out of power halfway thru the job.

The last cordless I owned really ****ed me off. *I was trying to
finish screwing on a sheet of tin siding on my barn, which had to be
finished or the wind would have destroyed it. *It was pouring rain,
high winds, and I'm outside getting soaked. *The job would have been
finished if I had not had to recharge the battery 3 or 4 times during
the job. *That damn battery was weak and would only install about 15
screws before needing a recharge. *I had about 6 screws to do, when
the battery died. *I whipped the drill against the concrete below the
ladder and watched it smash into a few hundred pieces. *Since I could
not drag a cord and 120v drill out in that rain, I had to finish the
job with a nutdriver. *I was really ****ed, and glad that drill met
it's reward in hell. *I will never buy another one.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Early in your post you said: "I can always run a cord to use a 120V
plug in drill"

And then you followed up with "Since I could not drag a cord and 120v
drill out in that rain..."

I guess "always" was a bit overstated, wasn't it?

OK, you're right. *I can always use a 120V drill, EXCEPT in pouring
rain. *Just a bit too dangerous. *Maybe with a GFI I would have tried
it, but there are none in that building. *I should probably invest in
one of those portable GFIs.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

We have several (of different brands) cordless drills etc. with dud
batteries and are considering some sort of approx. 12 volt power
supplies. Each probably capable of supplying say 5 to 10 amps. (120
watts?) into which we could plug these presently useless tools.


Such a PS would also provide isolation from AC mains for safety.
Since
they would be less portable than our working cordless drills would
mainly be used at work benches. So we could have drills plugged in
'ready to go' at each location.


One possible source of transformers for suitable power supplies could
be transformers from scrapped microwave ovens, of which we have
several, providing pre-wound 115 volt primaries and metal transformer
cores. Read an article not to long ago describing removing the fine
gauge several thousand volt microwave secondaries and winding on
heavier gauge low voltage ones.


Another possibility is to use m.wave oven the transformers backwards;
however this may be impossible because in some cases one end of the
higher voltage winding is grounded to the transformer frame.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again
wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil


I buy individual batteries and replace the bad ones in the power
pack. Been doing that for about 10 years.

Each of the batteries are 1.2 volts and the replacements are about
twice as powerful as the originals (in the cheap drills), so your
charge lasts a long time and your drills are more powerful than when
new.

One time, I turned a cordless screw driver into a corded model. For a guy
who does factory work. The power supply plug came from www.sciplus.com
American Science and Surplus. I had to open the case, and then wire the
power supply to the wires inside the case.

It sure is a good idea. I bought 12 volt drills from HF so I could power
them off a car battery after the nicads went dead.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Phil Again" wrote in message
m...
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

{snip}

Which implies it lasted at least 2 years...from HF. Was this a comment
of dissatisfaction? What did you pay for it if I might ask and you
recall?

I have my 18v Ridgid for "real" cordless drilling.

I have a cheapo B&D I use daily for all the misc light/med stuff. When
it dies I'll toss it and get another, just like I tossed the prior
cheapo Ryobi. That's what and all I expect of them. Maybe I'll try one
of those econo HF's that are dirt cheap and can probably use an
additional 15% off 1 item coupon.


Red:

As I recall, when I purchased the HF cordless drill, HF was selling the
drill and a light as a kit for about $30.00 and if I purchased a spare
18.0 volt battery pack, then the total sale price was just under $40.00.

The comment was not intended to be a hit on HF. It was a comment on the
marketing, and price point, susceptibility a consumer like me will fall
for; my bad.

The cost of replacing my Sears 18.00 volt battery pack was something like
$60.00. That Sears cordless 18.0 volt drill originally cost during a
December Holiday sale (12/2001?) for something like $55.00 or so.
Replacement power packs for that drill are no longer available.
Replacement packs for my old Hitachi (?) from circa early 1990's haven't
been around for many, many years. My original Sears cordless is from
more than 20 years ago.

I expect this holiday season Sears and the BORGs will be having sales on
cordless drill sets under $40.00 again. More land fill for the future.

For myself, I thinking more of a cord drill. If I can find one on Sale
this holiday season. The cordless feature is no long worth the
frustration of the battery pack.

On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 13:09:42 -0800, wrote:

PRIMECELL rebuilds your packs with better than original batteries,
excellent service, reasonable price

http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm

Not saying prime cell prices to replace and rebuild my battery pack are
not worth the price,

But the cost of a another battery pack replacement is still just about
the price of a new cheap corded drill.

But I do thank-you for your offering the link. Now only if prime-cell
would offer a cheap re-build to convert my 18.0 volt battery pack to a
standard household current corded drill. I don't think they would be
able to offer such a service at an economic price point.

IMHO, economics of mass production and production tooling vs manual
production makes it impossible for Prime Cell to be inexpensive compared
to a new drill.

for $30, you can buy a cheap 110vac drill.

Yep, that may be the way I will go. Just waiting for the Holiday sales I
guess.

Duff wrote in
news
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:20:15 -0600, Phil Again
wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household
electric power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack
goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless
drill to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass
GO and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil


I buy individual batteries and replace the bad ones in the power
pack. Been doing that for about 10 years.

Each of the batteries are 1.2 volts and the replacements are about
twice as powerful as the originals (in the cheap drills), so your
charge lasts a long time and your drills are more powerful than when
new.

if you only replace bad cells,then your pack's capacity is no more than
what the ORIGINAL cells have.(and then you begin reverse-charging those
cells,ruining them.)





IIRC,Hitachi used to make a cordless drill/driver that had an optional belt
battery pack,it used a dummy battery pack in the drill's handle to connect
power from the belt pack.
Empty out a dead battery pack,wire in a coil cord and that to a power
source that can supply several amps at the rated voltage.

Of course,with no batteries in the pack,the drill's balance will be gone.

Or you could buy newer Lithium-ion packs and a new charger,if available
for your drill.
Those hold their charge for months of storage.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I too had four (4) worn out B&D 14.4V packs and replacements are no longer
available. For $40 I sent one to a place in PA that rebuilt it with fresh
batts of higher capacity and it easily powers all my devices with more
power than before. If I needed another I wouldn't hesitate to use this
service. I wish I could find my bookmark of this place but I am sure
someone here will remind you.

Just my $1,98 worth (not $200 worth)

On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:15:38 -0600, Phil Again wrote:



for $30, you can buy a cheap 110vac drill.

Yep, that may be the way I will go. Just waiting for the Holiday sales I
guess.

or get a used variable speed on craigslist

On Nov 17, 12:20*pm, Phil Again wrote:
This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Battery packs are easy and cheap to rebuild, and contrary to what
people say, YES you can solder to NiCd cells. As long as you use a
good heavy high-wattage soldering IRON, not a "soldering gun."

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill. *

That's because you fall for the scam, and buy garbage tools. They see
you coming. Buy something halfway decent like Ryobi One+. Replacement
batteries are cheap, two for $50 at Home Depot, and even less on eBay.
The nice thing about Ryobi is that the battery design hasn't changed
in years.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years. *

Normally they don't last 1/3 that long. You did well. What are you
complaining about?

"Bob M" wrote in message
...
I too had four (4) worn out B&D 14.4V packs and replacements are no longer
available. For $40 I sent one to a place in PA that rebuilt it with fresh
batts of higher capacity and it easily powers all my devices with more
power than before. If I needed another I wouldn't hesitate to use this
service. I wish I could find my bookmark of this place but I am sure
someone here will remind you.


http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm

Bedford, PA.



--
Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerdatcarolina.rr.com

On Nov 18, 10:00*am, Phil Again wrote:
{snip}

Which implies it lasted at least 2 years...from HF. Was this a comment
of dissatisfaction? What did you pay for it if I might ask and you
recall?

I have my 18v Ridgid for "real" cordless drilling.

I have a cheapo B&D I use daily for all the misc light/med stuff. When
it dies I'll toss it and get another, just like I tossed the prior
cheapo Ryobi. That's what and all I expect of them. Maybe I'll try one
of those econo HF's that are dirt cheap and can probably use an
additional 15% off 1 item coupon.

Red:

As I recall, when I purchased the HF cordless drill, HF was selling the
drill and a light as a kit for about $30.00 and if I purchased a spare
18.0 volt battery pack, then the total sale price was just under $40.00.

The comment was not intended to be a hit on HF. *It was a comment on the
marketing, and price point, susceptibility a consumer like me will fall
for; my bad. *

The cost of replacing my Sears 18.00 volt battery pack was something like
$60.00. *That Sears cordless 18.0 volt drill originally cost during a
December Holiday sale (12/2001?) for something like $55.00 or so. *
Replacement power packs for that drill are no longer available. *
Replacement packs for my old Hitachi (?) from circa early 1990's haven't
been around for many, many years. *My original Sears cordless is from
more than 20 years ago.

I expect this holiday season Sears and the BORGs will be having sales on
cordless drill sets under $40.00 again. *More land fill for the future.

For myself, I thinking more of a cord drill. *If I can find one on Sale
this holiday season. *The cordless feature is no long worth the
frustration of the battery pack.

Our 13.2 volt Bosch was our first experience with cordless a few years
ago, a good tool and we were impressed.
While overseas in 2007 I re-celled the battery packs. Then home again
the charger went kaput.
The replacement charger now costs $70+, in Canada. That's more than
half the original cost of the Bosch with its two battery packs. Also
in the face of our cheaper cordless drill that cost in total with it's
two battery packs about $80!
That and several other cordless acquired free with dud/weak batteries
gets one thinking!
One site was recommended for replacement cells; each cell costing
anywhere from $2 to $4, plus shipping.
For a 13.2 pack that's 11 cells (plus own labour), at least $50 to re
cell one battery pack.
Think I will pursue the DC power supply idea, since do have a 26 volt
DC PS that could possibly be wired to DC outlets on work bench. For
balance probably just leave cells in place but disconnected? If
necessary can probably reduce the voltage of the power supply to
around 15 or 18 volts or even 12 volts.

On Nov 17, 11:09�pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...t=2&id=...Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells.

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

theres no easy way to heat sink a battery, welding much better.

i have a friend who would freeze batteries before soldering on them

On Nov 18, 8:11�am, Phil Again wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2008 13:09:42 -0800, wrote:
PRIMECELL rebuilds your packs with better than original batteries,
excellent service, reasonable price

http://www.primecell.com/pctools.htm

Not saying prime cell prices to replace and rebuild my battery pack are
not worth the price,

But the cost of a another battery pack replacement is still just about
the price of a new cheap corded drill. �

But I do thank-you for your offering the link. �Now only if prime-cell
would offer a cheap re-build to convert my 18.0 volt battery pack to a
standard household current corded drill. �I don't think they would be
able to offer such a service at an economic price point.

IMHO, economics of mass production and production tooling vs manual
production makes it impossible for Prime Cell to be inexpensive compared
to a new drill.

well realize primecell is rebuilding with cells far better than the
original ones that came with the unit when new.

cheap cordless use cheap cells. with less capacity.

primecell uses superior more expensive cells, which cost more.

but hey you want the cheapest?????

a lot depends on how much and where you use the tool

One site was recommended for replacement cells; each cell costing
anywhere from $2 to $4, plus shipping.
For a 13.2 pack that's 11 cells (plus own labour), at least $50 to recell one battery pack.

34 bucks at primecell, for higher capacity cells.

upgrade to lithium triple original capacity? for 52 bucks

On Nov 18, 10:05*am, " wrote:
On Nov 17, 11:09 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:





wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...2&id=...quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells.

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

theres no easy way to heat sink a battery, welding much better.

i have a friend who would freeze batteries before soldering on them- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Freezing is a great idea, Heat sinking is not easy and still alows
temp to rise, I have done it without ruining cells but its risky. Spot
weld is best if that is what they do.

On Nov 18, 10:15*am, " wrote:
One site was recommended for replacement cells; each cell costing
anywhere from $2 to $4, plus shipping.
For a 13.2 pack that's 11 cells (plus own labour), at least $50 to recell one battery pack.

34 bucks at primecell, for higher capacity cells.

upgrade to lithium triple original capacity? for 52 bucks

LiIon dont last as many years, as of now. Charging is a bit
different, many old chargers are not good enough.

On Nov 18, 12:29�pm, ransley wrote:
On Nov 18, 10:05�am, " wrote:





On Nov 17, 11:09 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:

wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...t=2&id=...text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells.

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

theres no easy way to heat sink a battery, welding much better.

i have a friend who would freeze batteries before soldering on them- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Freezing is a great idea, Heat sinking is not easy and still alows
temp to rise, I have done it without ruining cells but its risky. Spot
weld is best if that is what they do.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

primecell spot welds all connections, dependable fast and no real
battery heating

With all them duff batteries, I'd be breaking into all the packs to
find all the cells that were capable of taking a charge, Then take a
discharge reading off the individual cells ( I did that by loading
them with a halogen bulb to discharge over mebbe a half hr) and make
up a good pack for your favorite drill. The upside to the h freight
drills is the battery packs are screwed together(least the drill
master and chicago electric that I've had thus far)- makes breaking
onto them and replacing them much easier, even if the drills are
generally inferior to the brand names. Even if you have to buy a h
freight battery pack for the cells (there are some that are 1.7 amp/hr
batts- not bad but about half what good cells are rated for), it
won't break the bank. Pat

Phil Again wrote in
:

{snip}

Which implies it lasted at least 2 years...from HF. Was this a
comment of dissatisfaction? What did you pay for it if I might ask
and you recall?

I have my 18v Ridgid for "real" cordless drilling.

I have a cheapo B&D I use daily for all the misc light/med stuff.
When it dies I'll toss it and get another, just like I tossed the
prior cheapo Ryobi. That's what and all I expect of them. Maybe I'll
try one of those econo HF's that are dirt cheap and can probably use
an additional 15% off 1 item coupon.


Red:

As I recall, when I purchased the HF cordless drill, HF was selling
the drill and a light as a kit for about $30.00 and if I purchased a
spare 18.0 volt battery pack, then the total sale price was just under
$40.00.

The comment was not intended to be a hit on HF. It was a comment on
the marketing, and price point, susceptibility a consumer like me will
fall for; my bad.

The cost of replacing my Sears 18.00 volt battery pack was something
like $60.00. That Sears cordless 18.0 volt drill originally cost
during a December Holiday sale (12/2001?) for something like $55.00 or
so. Replacement power packs for that drill are no longer available.
Replacement packs for my old Hitachi (?) from circa early 1990's
haven't been around for many, many years. My original Sears cordless
is from more than 20 years ago.

I expect this holiday season Sears and the BORGs will be having sales
on cordless drill sets under $40.00 again. More land fill for the
future.

For myself, I thinking more of a cord drill. If I can find one on
Sale this holiday season. The cordless feature is no long worth the
frustration of the battery pack.

For 40 bucks you dun good for an 18v. We never like them when they die
even if it was bought with throw-away in mind.

The reason I like to have the likes of a B&D homeowner cheapo around is
that it's smaller, light and easy to handle. I really wouldn't have
wanted to use the 18v Ridgid today to unscrew a couple of
countertopscrews in a 12" cabinet if ya know what I mean.

On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 08:05:06 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Nov 17, 11:09?pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...t=2&id=...Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells.

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

theres no easy way to heat sink a battery, welding much better.

i have a friend who would freeze batteries before soldering on them

All the battery packs I've seen use tabbed batteries. No heat sink
or welding is necessary.

On Nov 19, 3:10�pm, Duff wrote:
On Tue, 18 Nov 2008 08:05:06 -0800 (PST), "





wrote:
On Nov 17, 11:09?pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
wrote:

On Nov 17, 5:13 pm, "Bob (but not THAT Bob)"
wrote:
Phil Again wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

The last cordless drill set, from HF, lasted less than 3 years.

So, my question:

Has anyone ever seen an aftermarket adapter that uses household electric
power, and fits into a cordless drill where the battery pack goes?

Wouldn't it be nice to spend $29.95 to convert a useless cordless drill
to a functional corded drill?

I know, I know, return from fantasy wishful thinking land, do not pass GO
and don't collect $200.00 monopoly money.

Phil

I personally never run into this kinda stuff in my "fantasy wishful
thinking land", but...

Stop dreaming and get out the old soldering iron and just rebuild the
packs with some new nicads like these:

http://www.onlybatteries.com/cat_fea...2&id=...quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

actually soldering to a ni cad is a bad idea, the heat can damage the
cells long term life.

primecell spot welds the cells together, heat is so fast it cant
damage cells.

cheap cordless tools cheap out on batteries, with low capacity cells..

Same with ICs - that's why there are heat sinks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

theres no easy way to heat sink a battery, welding much better.

i have a friend who would freeze batteries before soldering on them

�All the battery packs I've seen use tabbed batteries. �No heat sink
or welding is necessary.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most replacement cells lack the tabs

Look around on the internet. I found aftermarket batteries for my
Makitas for about $30 with higher AH ratings than the original.

WHERE?

wrote in message
...
On Nov 19, 3:10?pm, Duff wrote:


most replacement cells lack the tabs

************************************************** ************************

Then they aren't replacements.

On Nov 19, 9:15�pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Nov 19, 3:10?pm, Duff wrote:

most replacement cells lack the tabs

************************************************** ************************

Then they aren't replacements.

so link to source of cells with tabs?

tabs vary depening on application, i have never seen replacement
tabbed cells. and wonder how much more they would cost?

In article ,
Duff wrote:

This morning I discovered I now have 4 non-functional cordless drills
(battery powered) all due to battery packs won't take a charge.

Replacement batteries cost more than a new cordless drill.

I frequently find my cordless drill has zero volts, I just charge it and
use it anyway. I put 24 vdc (2 car batteries) across the 14.4 v battery
for about 20 sec, and the voltage goes up to 15 vdc which is enough for
the charger to work normally

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

tabbed cells


https://www.batteryspace.com/index.a...ROD&ProdID=162




On Thu, 20 Nov 2008 04:33:27 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Nov 19, 9:15?pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Nov 19, 3:10?pm, Duff wrote:

most replacement cells lack the tabs

************************************************** ************************

Then they aren't replacements.

so link to source of cells with tabs?

tabs vary depening on application, i have never seen replacement
tabbed cells. and wonder how much more they would cost?