[[email protected]]

The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

Thanks in advance.

[aemeijers]

wrote:
The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

Thanks in advance.
We can't see your house from here to have any idea of what you are
talking about. Got any before and now pictures you can post someplace?
Having trouble picturing how 5 foot and 8 foot pieces would be involved
in a door frame, unless this is an oversize door. The column description
scares me- hope you have a temporary in place to hold up whatever is
over the former location of that.

As a complete WAG, I'd say go to a real door wholesaler, and see what a
custom-sized commercial-grade steel door and frame would cost. I see odd
sizes of those all the time, for retrofits in the basements of old
buildings. You put anchors in the surrounding masonry, linked to the
frame, and then fill the voids with mortar or concrete.

Personally, if it all is truly non-load-bearing, I'd just build back
with treated wood, and take measures to keep the area dry, and provide
an air gap between dirt and wood. (such as regrading on the outside of
door, or adding flashing or something.) The first one lasted 90 years-
how much longer is the rest of the house going to last? Unless
flooding/frost heave/ice in cracks is a problem, a 90 YO masonry wall
has probably sagged all it is ever going to sag.

--
aem sends...

[Mikepier]

Perhaps what you need is a lentil, which is basically a steel angle
line that goes above door openings and windows. The best place to get
steel material is a local iron works shop. They will cut the material
you need. It should not be much,

[Ed Pawlowski]

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Perhaps what you need is a lentil, which is basically a steel angle
line that goes above door openings and windows. The best place to get
steel material is a local iron works shop. They will cut the material
you need. It should not be much,

No, lentils make good soup, but lousy support. Lintels work better

Look in the Yellow Pages for "Steel Distributors" They will have what you
want. If you don't need certifications they may even have some used stuff.
..

[LouB]

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Perhaps what you need is a lentil, which is basically a steel angle
line that goes above door openings and windows. The best place to get
steel material is a local iron works shop. They will cut the material
you need. It should not be much,

No, lentils make good soup, but lousy support. Lintels work better

Look in the Yellow Pages for "Steel Distributors" They will have what you
want. If you don't need certifications they may even have some used stuff.
.


LOL

Lou

[ransley]

On Oct 18, 11:21*pm, wrote:
The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

Thanks in advance.

Use treated wood steel is not worth the trouble or expense, what would
make you think it will be stronger or better

[[email protected]]

On Oct 19, 8:52�am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 18, 11:21�pm, wrote:

The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

Thanks in advance.

Use treated wood steel is not worth the trouble or expense, what would
make you think it will be stronger or better

call many different steel suppliers, some dont want to be bothered by
homeowners and charge far more than the item is worth

[dpb]

wrote:
The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

How do you plan on doing something w/ this much structural steel?

I'll reiterate the others' comments -- either use a metal exterior door
in the opening or simply rebuild w/ pressure treated lumber. Either
will certainly be likely to outlast your need for them.

--

[aemeijers]

wrote:
On Sun, 19 Oct 2008 07:45:27 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Oct 19, 8:52?am, ransley wrote:
On Oct 18, 11:21?pm, wrote:

The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.
FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?
Thanks in advance.
Use treated wood steel is not worth the trouble or expense, what would
make you think it will be stronger or better
call many different steel suppliers, some dont want to be bothered by
homeowners and charge far more than the item is worth

With the market slowdown these guys do seem to be a little more
patient with a beginner but the more you know about the product the
easier it will go. Have a very good idea of what size beam you need.
They are generally sized by the height and weight per foot (IE a
common beam size is 8" x 17).
You can always go heavier but the height is usually going to be
limited by the hole you are putting it in.
I know the guys in a steel yard around here that normally kicks
homeowners out fairly rudely were very happy to take my money and work
with me but I did have a pretty good idea of what to ask for.
They do seem happier with a check or cash than trying to use a credit
card. Some don't even take them but a surprising number do. I usually
take cash and enough small bills to get exact change.

Chuckle. Yeah, I have bought used steel that way before, too. Other than
estimated weights for each pile, there is no inventory trail for scrap
steel, and if it sold for cash, well, what business is it of mine if it
gets logged in on that day's receipts?

--
aem sends...

[SteveB]

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
wrote:
The 90 year-old wooden door frame to my cellar had been damaged by
termites over the years. I finally got around to removing the frame
and would like to replace it with steel. The old frame was not load
bearing, but I would like to use steel in case the rough masonry walls
surrounding the door sag in the future. Where does one typically buy
steel beam? I don't recall seeing it at the local hardware stores,
though I plan to double-check tomorrow.

FYI, I'll be needing one 5' beam with the cross section of an (old)
2x4 and one 8' column with the cross section of an (old) 4x4. The beam
will need to lay flat (the "I" sideways), which I believe is not the
best configuration for an I-beam. Maybe a hollow steel beam would be a
better choice?

Thanks in advance.


Please see ongoing thread about DIYers who cause themselves more work than
they save.

And go to Mexico and observe the architecture and building methods there.
It sounds like something you are considering.

If you can't find an I beam, or know which way it goes, you should not be
allowed to handle a hammer without adult supervision.

Troll on. Or we will read about you in the newspapers.

Steve

[SteveB]

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Perhaps what you need is a lentil, which is basically a steel angle
line that goes above door openings and windows. The best place to get
steel material is a local iron works shop. They will cut the material
you need. It should not be much,

No, lentils make good soup, but lousy support. Lintels work better

Look in the Yellow Pages for "Steel Distributors" They will have what you
want. If you don't need certifications they may even have some used
stuff.

Doesn't that depend on the way you cook them, Ed?

Steve ;-)