I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy

wrote:
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping
screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty of
room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you could
then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping screw driven
into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a typical
2x3 steel box

wrote:
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy

Have you looked into "old work" outlet boxes ?? They are made for
just this situation, unless the tile (+ wallboard backing ?) is to
thick for the clamping ears.

Google "old work" + outlet box to see examples

one is at http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/Pro...px?SKU=3163524

"Reed" wrote in message
m...
wrote:
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy

Have you looked into "old work" outlet boxes ?? They are made for just
this situation, unless the tile (+ wallboard backing ?) is to thick for
the clamping ears.

Google "old work" + outlet box to see examples

one is at http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/Pro...px?SKU=3163524

You generally install the cut in box into the sheetrock, not on the tile,
and that doesn't help him to remove the existing box and cables through the
2x3" opening

wrote in message
...
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?



Tough situation. If the ears on the receptacle extend on to the wall enough
it might be possible to install an anchor and screw through one of them
directly into the wall. Another thought is a 6/32 toggle bolt might be able
to catch something to pull the receptacle in.

wrote in message
...
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy
If you can find some small steel wire such as the stainless steel safety
wire used on aircraft you should be able to tie the outlet back in. Lay the
wire over the outlet tab and make the twist parallel to the wall. I have
done it with soft iron wire. You may need to carefully push the wires back
with a wood dowel to prevent them from trying to push the outlet out. Once
you have it in place a little epoxy or other heavy adhesive could help hold
it. It should be possible to epoxy a small bracket inside the box to replace
the broken off tab.

Don Young

*Another thought is a 6/32 toggle bolt might be able
to catch something to pull the receptacle in.-

My thoughts exactly. Use a small toggle bolt, it should catch onto the
box and the tile wall.

RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:

I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty of
room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you could
then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping screw driven
into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a typical
2x3 steel box



This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I
am right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked
in and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed
when we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three
different style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none
pointing outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes
pictured on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes,
but maybe some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..
RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:

I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping screw
driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I am
right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked in
and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed when
we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three different
style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none pointing
outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes pictured
on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes, but maybe
some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab outside
the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs on the
inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..
RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:

I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping
screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I am
right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked in
and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed when
we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three different
style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none pointing
outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes pictured
on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes, but maybe
some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab
outside the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs
on the inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical
switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx



I assumed that it was a gem box also Roy. I guess it could be a square box,
but I would think that you could drill a hole in the back and tap it and
then use a long screw to fasten the receptacle.

On Sun, 12 Oct 2008 18:01:41 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

[snip]

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

Then there's also Can't Remember S____

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..
RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news
wrote:

I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping
screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I
am right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked
in and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed
when we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three
different style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none
pointing outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes
pictured on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes,
but maybe some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab
outside the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs
on the inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical
switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx



I assumed that it was a gem box also Roy. I guess it could be a square
box, but I would think that you could drill a hole in the back and tap it
and then use a long screw to fasten the receptacle.

My thoughts exactly, also the likelyhood of a gem box tab breaking off is
way greater than breaking the tab off a 1900 to single gang reducing cover

On Oct 11, 5:32*pm, wrote:
I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. *It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. *It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. *The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. *Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. *The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. *I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? *Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy

Try a good size clump of JB Weld.

Rough up the surfaces of the box with a coarse file or a Dremel tool
to give the JB Weld some bite. Maybe even drill a hole or two up
through the top of the box to really lock it in. Get the receptacle in
position, mold the JB Weld into a smooth shape and duct tape the
receptacle in place over night.

If you ever have to replace the receptacle, you could always Dremel it
out and JB Weld a new one back in again.

RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..

RBM wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news

wrote:


I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping screw
driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I am
right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked in
and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed when
we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three different
style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none pointing
outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes pictured
on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes, but maybe
some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab outside
the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs on the
inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx



How is the box you linked to attached secured on typical new construction?

I'm not disagreeing that the tabs are bent out on that kind of box, but
as you sort of refered to it as a "bang on" box, just what does that
description mean?

I've got a feeling all the wall mounted boxes in our home are similar to
this design:

https://www.hardwareworld.com/1-78dp...t-pKZR3W9.aspx

with the mounting strip nailed onto the side of a wall stud.

From what I can see looking at my home's boxes, they all have the tabs
bent in and look like they have rounded corners, save for the few "old
work" boxes I've added myself.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
eonecommunications...
RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..

RBM wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
newsaOdnXfaOdc9umzVnZ2dnUVZ_qHinZ2d@comcast. com...


wrote:


I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have plenty
of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto which you
could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self tapping
screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I am
right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked in
and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed when
we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three different
style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none pointing
outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes pictured
on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes, but maybe
some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab
outside the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs
on the inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical
switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx

How is the box you linked to attached secured on typical new construction?

I'm not disagreeing that the tabs are bent out on that kind of box, but as
you sort of refered to it as a "bang on" box, just what does that
description mean?

I've got a feeling all the wall mounted boxes in our home are similar to
this design:

https://www.hardwareworld.com/1-78dp...t-pKZR3W9.aspx

with the mounting strip nailed onto the side of a wall stud.

From what I can see looking at my home's boxes, they all have the tabs
bent in and look like they have rounded corners, save for the few "old
work" boxes I've added myself.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

The particular box I linked to is not a bang on type. It is a standard cut
in type. The two side walls of the box are removable to expand the box. The
same box can be purchased with about a dozen various types and sizes of
bang-on brackets, a few of which are the most standard steel boxes used.
What you linked to is a rather unusual box. It's a handy box, which is for
surface mounting, except that one has a bang-on bracket welded to it.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
eonecommunications...
RBM wrote:
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..

RBM wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
newsaOdnXfaOdc9umzVnZ2dnUVZ_qHinZ2d@comcast .com...


wrote:


I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't
was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part
off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have
plenty of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto
which you could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self
tapping screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I
am right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked
in and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed
when we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three
different style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none
pointing outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes
pictured on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes,
but maybe some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab
outside the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs
on the inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical
switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx

How is the box you linked to attached secured on typical new
construction?

I'm not disagreeing that the tabs are bent out on that kind of box, but
as you sort of refered to it as a "bang on" box, just what does that
description mean?

I've got a feeling all the wall mounted boxes in our home are similar to
this design:

https://www.hardwareworld.com/1-78dp...t-pKZR3W9.aspx

with the mounting strip nailed onto the side of a wall stud.

From what I can see looking at my home's boxes, they all have the tabs
bent in and look like they have rounded corners, save for the few "old
work" boxes I've added myself.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

The particular box I linked to is not a bang on type. It is a standard cut
in type. The two side walls of the box are removable to expand the box.
The same box can be purchased with about a dozen various types and sizes
of bang-on brackets, a few of which are the most standard steel boxes
used. What you linked to is a rather unusual box. It's a handy box, which
is for surface mounting, except that one has a bang-on bracket welded to
it.
It would certainly help if the OP gave a description or photo of his
particular box, but if it is a steel box with internal tab, or 1900 box
with reducing cover, John Grabowski's idea to drill and tap the back of the
box is a solid solution, and easily achieved even with a box recessed into
a wall

RBM wrote:
"RBM" wrote in message
...

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
iceonecommunications...

RBM wrote:

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
news:iKOdnW1ndZha7m_VnZ2dnUVZ_tCdnZ2d@comcast. com...


RBM wrote:


"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
newsaOdnXfaOdc9umzVnZ2dnUVZ_qHinZ2d@comcas t.com...



wrote:



I'm swapping an electrical outlet for one of a different color. It
turned out that the old metal box is missing one of the tabs that an
outlet screws into. It's behind tile, so I really can't replace the
box.

That end of the old outlet had been wire-tied in -- wire through two
holes in the top of the outlet box, out around the outlet mounting
tab, twist tight. The old wire came apart when I untwisted it to
remove the outlet.

I've tried to replicate this with various types of wire. Most were
too soft and broke as I twisted it down. The only one that didn't
was
16 gauge baling wire, but that left a big fat twist of wire above the
outlet that kept the cover from mounting nicely. I also tried zip
ties, but had issues getting them tight while keeping the fat part
off
the front.

Any bright ideas? Keep looking for a stronger small gauge wire?

-troy


If you completely remove the outlet from the box you should have
plenty of room to drill a hole into the side wall of the box onto
which you could then fasten a tiny homemade angle bracket with a self
tapping screw driven into that hole.

Drill a hole in the exposed end of the newly fastened bracket and use
another self tapping screw to fasten the outlet's end onto it.

QED

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


The tab with the 6/32" tapped threads is above the box opening on a
typical 2x3 steel box

This may well be a situation where "You are right from your side and I
am right from mine."

When I read your reponse I thought that my age related CRS* had kicked
in and caused me to write something totally useless.

So, out came the kitchen drawer screwdriver and I popped off two single
outlet cover plates and one single switch plate. (On boxes installed
when we had our home built23 years ago.)

Those boxes all that their tabs pointing inward.

Then I looked in my hell box of electrical junk and found three
different style metal boxes all with the tabs pointing inward, and none
pointing outward.

Checking a few web pages with lots of different electrical boxes
pictured on them didn't pull up any with the tabs "outside" the boxes,
but maybe some of the metal "old work" boxes had 'em there.

Peace,

Jeff

* CRS: Can't remember ****e.

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.


Typical steel new construction (bang on) 2x3 switch box has the tab
outside the box. Reducing covers and surface mounted boxes have the tabs
on the inside, as do steel concrete tight boxes. See link for typical
switch box:
https://www.hardwareworld.com/25in-D...a-pGJXLRX.aspx

How is the box you linked to attached secured on typical new
construction?

I'm not disagreeing that the tabs are bent out on that kind of box, but
as you sort of refered to it as a "bang on" box, just what does that
description mean?

I've got a feeling all the wall mounted boxes in our home are similar to
this design:

https://www.hardwareworld.com/1-78dp...t-pKZR3W9.aspx

with the mounting strip nailed onto the side of a wall stud.

From what I can see looking at my home's boxes, they all have the tabs
bent in and look like they have rounded corners, save for the few "old
work" boxes I've added myself.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

The particular box I linked to is not a bang on type. It is a standard cut
in type. The two side walls of the box are removable to expand the box.
The same box can be purchased with about a dozen various types and sizes
of bang-on brackets, a few of which are the most standard steel boxes
used. What you linked to is a rather unusual box. It's a handy box, which
is for surface mounting, except that one has a bang-on bracket welded to
it.
It would certainly help if the OP gave a description or photo of his
particular box, but if it is a steel box with internal tab, or 1900 box
with reducing cover, John Grabowski's idea to drill and tap the back of the
box is a solid solution, and easily achieved even with a box recessed into
a wall




I think we've about "saucered and blowed" this thread by now...G

Peace,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Thanks all.

I went with the toggle bolt idea and it worked well.
It caught the nail running across the top of the box.

For the record it was a 40-year old, single-gang metal
box with the tabs on the outside.

-troy