I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.

It is a custom wood door, odd size. It is difficult to replace
because it has a lot of accessories on it. It has a built in mail
slot with a mail box attached to the inside. It has custom hinges
with pins to avoid the doors being removed by simply unhinging the
hinges. It also has brackets on the top and bottom to fit two slabs
of 2x6 lumber for hurricane braces, and it has the top and bottom
spring loaded rods to attach the door to the floor and top frame, plus
several mortise locks. Bottom line is it will be very difficult and
expensive to replace and rebuild it.

The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
metal door bottom (something like this http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...p?p_ref=25543).

However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
rotted a bit - it's mushy.

I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

Thanks,

MC

wrote in message
...
I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.

It is a custom wood door, odd size. It is difficult to replace
because it has a lot of accessories on it. It has a built in mail
slot with a mail box attached to the inside. It has custom hinges
with pins to avoid the doors being removed by simply unhinging the
hinges. It also has brackets on the top and bottom to fit two slabs
of 2x6 lumber for hurricane braces, and it has the top and bottom
spring loaded rods to attach the door to the floor and top frame, plus
several mortise locks. Bottom line is it will be very difficult and
expensive to replace and rebuild it.

The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
metal door bottom (something like this
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalo...p?p_ref=25543).

However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
rotted a bit - it's mushy.

I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

Thanks,

MC

how much did you cut off and what tools do you have? you can turn a 2x4 on
it's side to get 3.5" thick, then rip that down with a table saw.

wrote:
I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.
....
The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
floor. I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
metal door bottom ...

However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
rotted a bit - it's mushy.

I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

I see no logical reason whatever for the weather seal in such an
application; definitely dump it.

Picture of the door and sill/frame would have been far more useful.

First, what is the wood used originally? Matching would be a good thing
(tm), more than likely.

In that area I'd guess cypress would have been a likely choice--you can
get lumber from hardwood/"real" lumber yards but not the Borgs.

If treated were acceptable for the appearance, you can always start w/ a
larger piece and cut it down, of course -- do you know what the actual
dimensions of the existing sill are?

I'd also look into treating the door w/ one of the rot stabilizing epoxy
products but a specific product/treatment would depend on more specific
information about the door than you've provided.

In the end, though, if the door is too long it should be trimmed so it
doesn't drag. As noted before, I can't imagine why there would be any
disadvantage to there being an inch or so gap at the bottom in that
application.

--
In that area you'll definitely

On Oct 1, 4:45*pm, dpb wrote:
wrote:
I have an exterior door, well actually it's not an exterior door that
opens to the interior, but an exterior door that opens into a
courtyard, so basically it's exposed to the weather on both sides.
...
The problem is the bottom of this door is too long, it can open half
way and it will be stucked due to the uneveness of the mexican tiled
floor. *I attempted to remove the door and cut it shorter and attach a
metal door bottom ...

However I just noticed due to the door bottom having direct contact
with the floor for 36 years, the bottom of that door is basically
rotted a bit - it's mushy.

I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. *However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. *The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. *Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

I see no logical reason whatever for the weather seal in such an
application; definitely dump it.

Picture of the door and sill/frame would have been far more useful.

First, what is the wood used originally? *Matching would be a good thing
(tm), more than likely.

In that area I'd guess cypress would have been a likely choice--you can
get lumber from hardwood/"real" lumber yards but not the Borgs.

If treated were acceptable for the appearance, you can always start w/ a
larger piece and cut it down, of course -- do you know what the actual
dimensions of the existing sill are?

I'd also look into treating the door w/ one of the rot stabilizing epoxy
products but a specific product/treatment would depend on more specific
information about the door than you've provided.

In the end, though, if the door is too long it should be trimmed so it
doesn't drag. *As noted before, I can't imagine why there would be any
disadvantage to there being an inch or so gap at the bottom in that
application.

--
In that area you'll definitely

I need to have some sort of a weather strip because the entire
courtyard is screened in so no mosquitoes and no-see-ums will not come
through. Yes, otherwise I could live with the gap.

Door is painted so finish is not a problem I will have to repaint the
entire door anyways.

Thanks,

MC

wrote:
....
I need to have some sort of a weather strip because the entire
courtyard is screened in ...

Does (or would it ok if?) the door only opened inward?

If so, I'd make the barrier a hanging one I think on the inside rather
than the mating strip that can't help but get wet (and stay wet a long
time) in that climate.

--

wrote in message
I think the least expensive approach is for me to remove the bottom
part of the wood door frame, and replace it. However, I cannot find
suitable lumber. The door is 1-3/4" thick, which is thicker than the
typical 2x4s. Is there any source for lumber with "standard door
thickness"?

Thanks,

MC

Ask around at work or your neighbors for anyone that does woodworking either
as a sideline or a hobby. They can make a piece to fit from 8/4 stock
planed down to proper thickness. Some lumberyards that bill themselves as
"lumber and millwork" can do it also.

I'd cut it back as far as needed to get rig of the rot and glue and screw
the new piece in place. If painted it can be made pretty much invisible.