I've got a 12 year old snow thrower with a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK-100
engine. Carb on this is the float style.

In addition to the regular maintenance this year I suspect I may need to
pull the carb off for a good cleaning. Presently it stutters at the
higher rpm's and I see where a dirty carb is one of the check items.
Carb has never been off previously.

Question for those familiar with these are there any pitfalls to watch
out for? Such as gaskets that always rip?,, etc

Thanks

Jim wrote:
I've got a 12 year old snow thrower with a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK-100
engine. Carb on this is the float style.

In addition to the regular maintenance this year I suspect I may need to
pull the carb off for a good cleaning. Presently it stutters at the
higher rpm's and I see where a dirty carb is one of the check items.
Carb has never been off previously.

Question for those familiar with these are there any pitfalls to watch
out for? Such as gaskets that always rip?,, etc

New gasket is readily available or just make one if needed.

Nothing of any consequence in these.

I'd check to see if the problem isn't the throttle shaft has worn the
body holes where it goes thru, however as that's a typical problem which
yields air inleakage so can't adjust mixture consistently.

If is problem, there really is no cure other than replacement.

--

On 27 Sep 2008 22:20:01 GMT, Jim wrote:

I've got a 12 year old snow thrower with a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK-100
engine. Carb on this is the float style.

In addition to the regular maintenance this year I suspect I may need to
pull the carb off for a good cleaning. Presently it stutters at the
higher rpm's and I see where a dirty carb is one of the check items.
Carb has never been off previously.

Question for those familiar with these are there any pitfalls to watch
out for? Such as gaskets that always rip?,, etc

Thanks

I have several machines with Tecumseh engines of various sizes and
ages. The Carter carbs they use are a simple float design and not very
tricky for the mo.pst part.

Couple of important tips:

with the carb stripped of all external parts including the float, hold
it so that your fingers prevent the choke and throttle from moving,
and shake the carb near your ear. There is an emulsion tube sealed
inside the carb that is NOT replaceable. If you don't hear a rattle
from it, throw the carb in the trash, as no amount of effort will ever
repair it.

During reassembly, it is CRITICAL that the open end of the little wire
that holds the float needle is pointing towards the air filter/ intake
end of the carb. Otherwise the needle will not center correctly and
you will never figure out why the machine won't run smoothly.

Buy a rebuild kit!

To remove the nitron rubber float needle seat, screw the tiop of a
wood screw into the hole in the center and yank it out. It sometinme
doesn't come out very easily. The new one goes in with the grooved
side down, and can be forced down to it's home with a bolt that is
just big enough to fit into the bore.

You can buy a GUNK carb soaker at an autoparts store. Well worth the
$30, and you can use it for many years of carb cleanings. Remove all
rubber parts as well as all screws, etc, and soak the carb overnight
in it. The kit comes in a metal gallon paint can, and includes a
strainer basket for the parts. WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION! NOT
KIDDING! VERY STRONG STUFF!!!


Replace the gasket between the carb and the engine regardless of how
good it looks. They never reseal after being disturbed. While you are
at the autoparts store, you can buy a sheet of Victor "Victolex JV100"
gasket material for a few bucks that will last you and your neigbors a
lifetime. Cut your own gaskets. It's really not hard to do. Having a
sheet of the stuff means you will never be tempted to reuse a gasket.
That will save you a lot of grief.


Here's a good source for rebuild kits and other smal engine parts:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/index.html?id=xVSkpKvM

If you really get stuck, or your emulsion tube is gummed up, they have
complete carbs, too.

On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:34:26 -0400, Blattus Slafaly
wrote:

Jim wrote:
I've got a 12 year old snow thrower with a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK-100
engine. Carb on this is the float style.

In addition to the regular maintenance this year I suspect I may need to
pull the carb off for a good cleaning. Presently it stutters at the
higher rpm's and I see where a dirty carb is one of the check items.
Carb has never been off previously.

Question for those familiar with these are there any pitfalls to watch
out for? Such as gaskets that always rip?,, etc

Thanks

That's why you get a carb kit that has all the gaskets.

Carb kits don't include the mounting gasket.

On Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:14:04 -0400, salty wrote:

On 27 Sep 2008 22:20:01 GMT, Jim wrote:

I've got a 12 year old snow thrower with a Tecumseh Snow King HMSK-100
engine. Carb on this is the float style.

In addition to the regular maintenance this year I suspect I may need to
pull the carb off for a good cleaning. Presently it stutters at the
higher rpm's and I see where a dirty carb is one of the check items.
Carb has never been off previously.

Question for those familiar with these are there any pitfalls to watch
out for? Such as gaskets that always rip?,, etc

Thanks

I have several machines with Tecumseh engines of various sizes and ages.
The Carter carbs they use are a simple float design and not very tricky
for the mo.pst part.

Couple of important tips:

with the carb stripped of all external parts including the float, hold
it so that your fingers prevent the choke and throttle from moving, and
shake the carb near your ear. There is an emulsion tube sealed inside
the carb that is NOT replaceable. If you don't hear a rattle from it,
throw the carb in the trash, as no amount of effort will ever repair it.

During reassembly, it is CRITICAL that the open end of the little wire
that holds the float needle is pointing towards the air filter/ intake
end of the carb. Otherwise the needle will not center correctly and you
will never figure out why the machine won't run smoothly.

Buy a rebuild kit!

To remove the nitron rubber float needle seat, screw the tiop of a wood
screw into the hole in the center and yank it out. It sometinme doesn't
come out very easily. The new one goes in with the grooved side down,
and can be forced down to it's home with a bolt that is just big enough
to fit into the bore.

You can buy a GUNK carb soaker at an autoparts store. Well worth the
$30, and you can use it for many years of carb cleanings. Remove all
rubber parts as well as all screws, etc, and soak the carb overnight in
it. The kit comes in a metal gallon paint can, and includes a strainer
basket for the parts. WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION! NOT KIDDING! VERY
STRONG STUFF!!!


Replace the gasket between the carb and the engine regardless of how
good it looks. They never reseal after being disturbed. While you are at
the autoparts store, you can buy a sheet of Victor "Victolex JV100"
gasket material for a few bucks that will last you and your neigbors a
lifetime. Cut your own gaskets. It's really not hard to do. Having a
sheet of the stuff means you will never be tempted to reuse a gasket.
That will save you a lot of grief.


Here's a good source for rebuild kits and other smal engine parts:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/index.html?id=xVSkpKvM

If you really get stuck, or your emulsion tube is gummed up, they have
complete carbs, too.

Thanks for the hints.