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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8" concrete
blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that pipe
and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off one side
of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of that wall
being supported now with just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.
See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? Do I get 4" thick blocks and
built up the front side? Do I frame 2x4s to support it? Do I use ply wood
to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?

Thanks in advance!

MC


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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

On Sep 26, 8:25*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8" concrete
blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. *The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that pipe
and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off one side
of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of that wall
being supported now with just the outside face of the old concrete blocks..
See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? *Do I get 4" thick blocks and
built up the front side? *Do I frame 2x4s to support it? *Do I use ply wood
to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?

Thanks in advance!

MC


MC-

Whether you need to "repair" the wall all depends on the "demand" on
the wall & the remaining "capacity" in the "chopped up" wall.

Keep in mind that my comments come from a guy experienced in wood
framed construction / plywood shear walls / seismic issues.

Being a master of "overkill" I guess I'd rebuild the course of the
wall where the pipes run, with 8" blocks with the "back face" removed
& appropriate cutouts made....

Once the "pipe course" was replaced, I'd continue rebuilding the wall
with 8" block with the back face removed.

Since the original wall appears to have been ungrouted, looks like you
really don't need a solid concrete wall.

I would suggest you estimate the amount of effort to cut & fit the
blocks vs forming up and pouring a solid wall.

Personally I'd prefer to piece it together & build it up out of blocks
rather than work and mess to form & pour. Plus I'm not a huge fan of
encasing pipes in concrete.

cheers
Bob



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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

I suggest that you first wrap the pipe in a pipe wrap therefore stopping any
chemical reaction from the cement on the adhesive in the pipe, them I would
close off the opening with brick. First make sure there are no leaks.


--
Anthony Ippolito
Providing Architectural Drafting & Design
For Over 40 Years


"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8"
concrete blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that
pipe and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off
one side of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of
that wall being supported now with just the outside face of the old
concrete blocks. See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? Do I get 4" thick blocks
and built up the front side? Do I frame 2x4s to support it? Do I use ply
wood to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?

Thanks in advance!

MC



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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

Blattus Slafaly wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:


I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8" concrete
blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that pipe
and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off one side
of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of that wall
being supported now with just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.
See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? Do I get 4" thick blocks and
built up the front side? Do I frame 2x4s to support it? Do I use ply wood
to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?

Thanks in advance!

MC




I would build a little form and fill in the void with cement, pipes and
all. Otherwise those block backs could buckle.



I don't know about reinforcing walls, but I would incorporate part of
the mold to keep the concrete
off the pipes.........just in case the wall has to be opened up in the
future so's you can do it without
busting pipes.
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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

On Sep 26, 11:25*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8" concrete
blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. *The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that pipe
and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off one side
of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of that wall
being supported now with just the outside face of the old concrete blocks..
See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? *Do I get 4" thick blocks and
built up the front side? *Do I frame 2x4s to support it? *Do I use ply wood
to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?


You've gotten advice on how to repair it, I'll give you some advice on
how to avoid some of it.

Instead of blowing out all of the block, you could have removed the
front face of just one course of block for the horizontal run.
Running a diamond bladed circular saw or cutoff saw horizontally would
control the depth fo the cut when you start breaking out the pieces.
One course height would allow you to have the two horizontal runs and
allow for your pitch, and to use bricks, cut block or 4" block as the
infill.

Reminder: Ask the question before doing the work. That way someone
might be able to save you some time and money. After-the-fact
solutions always cost more and take longer.

R


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Default Reinforcing kitchen wall

On 2008-09-27, MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8"
concrete blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall,
so I broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent
stack to the right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in
order to run that pipe and the one below for the dish washer, I had
to literally break off one side of that concrete wall, so that
resulted in half the length of that wall being supported now with
just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.


Is the entire damaged area under the window? If so, I expect that
there is a lintel above the window which distributes any load from
above to either side of the window. In that case the damaged area is
only carrying its own weight and the weight of the windows. That is,
not very much load. In which case your repair will be more cosmetic
than structural.

Cheers, Wayne

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On Sep 27, 3:39*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-09-27, MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8"
concrete blocks.


I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall,
so I broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent
stack to the right. *The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in
order to run that pipe and the one below for the dish washer, I had
to literally break off one side of that concrete wall, so that
resulted in half the length of that wall being supported now with
just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.


Is the entire damaged area under the window? *If so, I expect that
there is a lintel above the window which distributes any load from
above to either side of the window. *In that case the damaged area is
only carrying its own weight and the weight of the windows. *That is,
not very much load. *In which case your repair will be more cosmetic
than structural.


Granted, it's not a structural element. The stub wall under the
window has different functions - primarily supporting the exterior
finish/siding. The house isn't about to fall down, but if the
compromised block wall is stuccoed on the outside, cracks in the
remaining block face may extend through the stucco.

R
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"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message
...
On 2008-09-27, MiamiCuse wrote:

I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8"
concrete blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall,
so I broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent
stack to the right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in
order to run that pipe and the one below for the dish washer, I had
to literally break off one side of that concrete wall, so that
resulted in half the length of that wall being supported now with
just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.


Is the entire damaged area under the window? If so, I expect that
there is a lintel above the window which distributes any load from
above to either side of the window. In that case the damaged area is
only carrying its own weight and the weight of the windows. That is,
not very much load. In which case your repair will be more cosmetic
than structural.

Cheers, Wayne


Yes the window is about the same width as the wall. There is a tie beam
above the window, and the window rest on a strip of 6" thick solid poured
concrete. Below that are the concrete blocks. So, no, it's not carry much
load. I am trying to find the best way to vertically bridge the floor to
the concrete below the window, the rest is mostly cosmetics.

I will also need to find ways to attach furring strips to the surface, as I
will need to put drywall over it, then cabinets.

I am leaning to using 8" thick concrete blocks on the bottom run, and once I
got to the pipe, switch to 4" thick blocks until I meet the concrete,

MC


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"RicodJour" wrote in message
...
On Sep 26, 11:25 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have a kitchen wall with a window on top, below the window are 8"
concrete
blocks.

I will be installing a kitchen sink and dish washer along that wall, so I
broke the wall on one side to run the 2" PVC pipe to a vent stack to the
right. The PVC pipe run is over 4 feet long, and in order to run that pipe
and the one below for the dish washer, I had to literally break off one
side
of that concrete wall, so that resulted in half the length of that wall
being supported now with just the outside face of the old concrete blocks.
See the pictu

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...n/P1020499.jpg

Any idea what is the best way to patch it up? Do I get 4" thick blocks and
built up the front side? Do I frame 2x4s to support it? Do I use ply wood
to cover the front side and pour solid concrete?


You've gotten advice on how to repair it, I'll give you some advice on
how to avoid some of it.

Instead of blowing out all of the block, you could have removed the
front face of just one course of block for the horizontal run.
Running a diamond bladed circular saw or cutoff saw horizontally would
control the depth fo the cut when you start breaking out the pieces.
One course height would allow you to have the two horizontal runs and
allow for your pitch, and to use bricks, cut block or 4" block as the
infill.

Reminder: Ask the question before doing the work. That way someone
might be able to save you some time and money. After-the-fact
solutions always cost more and take longer.

R

================================================== ==============

RicodJour:

Thanks...but the problem is, things never ever happen as designed. I have
found myself anticipated every twists and turns, made corrective actions and
preventative measures.

In this case, the way it unfolds, the original drain pipe was there - cast
iron pipes, but was six inches higher. My wife says she wants a 10" deep
sink, and a garbage disposal. I said yes mamm. I did the measurements and
there is no way the original drain stub out being 20" off the floor will
accomodate a 10" sink and a garbage disposal. So I have to lower the drain
by about 6 inches. This means to make a run across to expose the vent stack
about 5 feet away, chip all around the pipe as it was encased in solid
concrete, cut the pipe. Then I ripped out another run lower to run the new
PVC pipes put in the WYEs and the cleanout.

The first and second run resulted in 3 rows of concrete blocks being busted
partially. I took the extra time to chip out the half broken blocks and
half dangled pieces to have a large clean rectangular area to patch.


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clipped

Yes the window is about the same width as the wall. There is a tie beam
above the window, and the window rest on a strip of 6" thick solid poured
concrete. Below that are the concrete blocks. So, no, it's not carry much
load. I am trying to find the best way to vertically bridge the floor to
the concrete below the window, the rest is mostly cosmetics.


If I was doing that, I would stop in at the garden dept. at HD and get
some narrow concrete edgers )
Hubby and I patched up a hole in the block wall at our condo where there
had been an old, rusty
fire-extinguisher cabinet. We used concrete pavers and latex stucco
patching compound. Looks good )

I will also need to find ways to attach furring strips to the surface, as I
will need to put drywall over it, then cabinets.

I am leaning to using 8" thick concrete blocks on the bottom run, and once I
got to the pipe, switch to 4" thick blocks until I meet the concrete,

MC




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