Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put some kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.

In article , "JohnnyC" wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put some kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

How high is this shed floor above your yard, anyway??

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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14" inches from top of floor to ground. Here is a picture of the shed
before I sided it.

http://members.cox.net/johnnycougar/...foreSiding.jpg

Be gentle...I built this by myself. Obviously not an expert.


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "JohnnyC" wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to
make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up to
700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or
do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put some
kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

How high is this shed floor above your yard, anyway??

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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On Sep 18, 10:58*am, "JohnnyC" wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. *The ramp needs to support up to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? * Also, should put some kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.

Width of ramp?
Height of floor above ground (i.e. what is the slope?)
However you could probably use as many 2 by 6 sloping joists as
possible for example if the ramp is say 36 inches wide; you could use
several 2 by 6, say four or five or even more.
Five could be spaced at widths of 0, 9, 18, 27 and 36 inches.
Four could be at 0, 12, 24 and 36 width spacing.
This would be similar to putting in a middle stringer or stringers
when making a set of steps.
Approx. 700 lbs is about the same weight as two people wrestling an
engine block. Persons A and B @ 200 lbs each = 400 lbs. Engine block
300 lbs. Total 700lbs. Not that extreme? Rather like three people
standing near the kitchen stove in a conventional frame house?

On Sep 18, 7:58*am, "JohnnyC" wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. *The ramp needs to support up to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? * Also, should put some kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.

So you will bury the joists as the ramp hits ground? 700 lb, a
tractor? Weight is spread out at 4 points 2x4 should work and be
easier to do and bury, even consider a few angle irons.

JohnnyC wrote:
14" inches from top of floor to ground. Here is a picture of the shed
before I sided it.

http://members.cox.net/johnnycougar/...foreSiding.jpg

Be gentle...I built this by myself. Obviously not an expert.


Looks like a good job to me.

Put the door hinges on the bottom and use the door as the ramp. Or the
bottom half of the door.

In article , "JohnnyC" wrote:
14" inches from top of floor to ground. Here is a picture of the shed
before I sided it.

http://members.cox.net/johnnycougar/...foreSiding.jpg

Be gentle...I built this by myself. Obviously not an expert.

Looks like a decent job.

Get two sheets of 3/4" treated plywood, and three 8-foot treated 2x12s. Trim
each 2x12 to the length you want, then cut each one diagonally so you have six
long wedges. Then build yourself a wedge-shaped box. That will give you
12-3/4" overall height -- the additional inch and a quarter probably isn't
going to cause you any trouble; I assume this is for a riding mower, right?
It'll get over 1-1/4" easily.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

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"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "JohnnyC" wrote:
14" inches from top of floor to ground. Here is a picture of the shed
before I sided it.

http://members.cox.net/johnnycougar/...foreSiding.jpg

Be gentle...I built this by myself. Obviously not an expert.

Looks like a decent job.

Get two sheets of 3/4" treated plywood, and three 8-foot treated 2x12s.
Trim
each 2x12 to the length you want, then cut each one diagonally so you have
six
long wedges. Then build yourself a wedge-shaped box. That will give you
12-3/4" overall height -- the additional inch and a quarter probably isn't
going to cause you any trouble; I assume this is for a riding mower,
right?
It'll get over 1-1/4" easily.

OR

Get some retaining wall block units and build a sloping wall on both sides
from the ground up to the doorway, fill between the block walls with the
dirt stacked on the right in the picture, top with sod, gravel or
interlocking bricks. This way you will have a permanent ramp and won't have
wood in contact with the soil which could start to rot or attract termites
into the cut ends or edges of the PT lumber.

"EXT" wrote:

-snip-
Get some retaining wall block units and build a sloping wall on both sides
from the ground up to the doorway, fill between the block walls with the
dirt stacked on the right in the picture, top with sod, gravel or
interlocking bricks. This way you will have a permanent ramp and won't have
wood in contact with the soil which could start to rot or attract termites
into the cut ends or edges of the PT lumber.

I second a dirt ramp. Gets better with age instead of rotting.

Jim

how do you get 12 and 3/4 out of a 2x12 and 3/4 plywood? Seems like it
would be 12 to me. Or did you mean to use the two sheets on top of one
another?

s


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...

Get two sheets of 3/4" treated plywood, and three 8-foot treated 2x12s.
Trim
each 2x12 to the length you want, then cut each one diagonally so you have
six
long wedges. Then build yourself a wedge-shaped box. That will give you
12-3/4" overall height -- the additional inch and a quarter probably isn't
going to cause you any trouble; I assume this is for a riding mower,
right?
It'll get over 1-1/4" easily.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

On Sep 18, 3:37*pm, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote:
how do you get 12 and 3/4 out of a 2x12 and 3/4 plywood? * Seems like it
would be 12 to me. *Or did you mean to use the two sheets on top of one
another?

s

"Doug Miller" wrote in message

...





Get two sheets of 3/4" treated plywood, and three 8-foot treated 2x12s.
Trim
each 2x12 to the length you want, then cut each one diagonally so you have
six
long wedges. Then build yourself a wedge-shaped box. That will give you
12-3/4" overall height -- the additional inch and a quarter probably isn't
going to cause you any trouble; I assume this is for a riding mower,
right?
It'll get over 1-1/4" easily.

--
Regards,
* * * *Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or did you mean to use the two sheets on top of one another?

Doug wrote: build yourself a wedge-shaped box

One sheet on the bottom, one on top. Very stable, shouldn't sink.

In article s.com, "EXT" wrote:

Get some retaining wall block units and build a sloping wall on both sides
from the ground up to the doorway, fill between the block walls with the
dirt stacked on the right in the picture, top with sod, gravel or
interlocking bricks. This way you will have a permanent ramp and won't have
wood in contact with the soil which could start to rot or attract termites
into the cut ends or edges of the PT lumber.

Since when does PT lumber rot or attract termites? That's kinda sorta the
entire point of treated lumber...

In article , "Steve Barker DLT" wrote:
how do you get 12 and 3/4 out of a 2x12 and 3/4 plywood? Seems like it
would be 12 to me. Or did you mean to use the two sheets on top of one
another?

I explicitly said, "Get two sheets ..."

A 2x12 is 11-1/4 wide. Add two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood -- one on top and
one on the bottom, to "build ... a wedge-shaped box" (as I said) -- and you
get 12-3/4.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...

Get two sheets of 3/4" treated plywood, and three 8-foot treated 2x12s.
Trim
each 2x12 to the length you want, then cut each one diagonally so you have
six
long wedges. Then build yourself a wedge-shaped box. That will give you
12-3/4" overall height -- the additional inch and a quarter probably isn't
going to cause you any trouble; I assume this is for a riding mower,
right?
It'll get over 1-1/4" easily.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

gotcha. thanks

s

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...

A 2x12 is 11-1/4 wide. Add two thicknesses of 3/4 plywood -- one on top
and
one on the bottom, to "build ... a wedge-shaped box" (as I said) -- and
you
get 12-3/4.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article s.com, "EXT"
wrote:

Get some retaining wall block units and build a sloping wall on both sides
from the ground up to the doorway, fill between the block walls with the
dirt stacked on the right in the picture, top with sod, gravel or
interlocking bricks. This way you will have a permanent ramp and won't
have
wood in contact with the soil which could start to rot or attract termites
into the cut ends or edges of the PT lumber.

Since when does PT lumber rot or attract termites? That's kinda sorta the
entire point of treated lumber...

It may be the point, BUT since the treatment only soaks into the edge of the
wood, the center is vulnerable to damage, if cut into or cracks with age the
center can deteriorate. I have seen many examples, even now, I have some
deck stairs that need to be replaced because they have rotted in the center.
PT extends the wood's life, but doesn't make it last forever.

JohnnyC wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to
make a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up
to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber
or do I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put
some kind of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.


Nobody else said it, so I will- go to local trailer place and get a
couple of those metal ramps the yard service companies and ATV owners
use on their trailers and trucks, so that they can drive the machines up
from ground level. A tad pricey, and you may have to modify the door
threshold to make them work, but they won't rot out and will basically
last forever. And you can unhook them and put them in the shed so you
don't have to look at them or mow around them when not in use.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
JohnnyC wrote:
Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to
make a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up to
700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or
do I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put some
kind of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.


Nobody else said it, so I will- go to local trailer place and get a couple
of those metal ramps the yard service companies and ATV owners use on
their trailers and trucks, so that they can drive the machines up from
ground level. A tad pricey, and you may have to modify the door threshold
to make them work, but they won't rot out and will basically last forever.
And you can unhook them and put them in the shed so you don't have to look
at them or mow around them when not in use.

As I already had them, that is what I use. I had gone to Lowes to get the
ramps to put my riding mower on my truck. Later when I got a building I use
the same ramps to get the mower in the shed. Just put them down , ride out,
mow, ride back in and put them up. They are aluminium so they do not weigh
that much.

On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 08:58:38 -0400, JohnnyC wrote:

Due to the height of a shed floor and the slope of the yard, I need to make
a ramp that is about 6 to 7ft long. The ramp needs to support up to 700lbs.

If I put the joists of the ramp 12" on center, can I use 2x6 PT lumber or do
I need something more substantial like a 2x8"? Also, should put some kind
of support in the middle of the ramp?

Thank you for your time.

I put joist hangers 16' on center across the front of the door low enough
for 2x4 PT joist that are cut at an angle to rest on the ground. I allowed
enough room for 3/4 decking only because that is what I had available as
scrap. I painted the bottom side of the plywood with old drained motor oil
as a precaution. Nothing to support this move other than I had an old
paint brush, freshly drained motor oil, and I figured wasps wouldn't want
to build under the ramp this way.

I built the ramp and screwed it together with drywall screws. That
is something else I had in abundance. Ring nails would have worked but I
would have had to delay the project to get them. I covered the ramp deck
with old vinyl that is commonly used to protect carpet first.

On a trip to one of the "Big Box Stores" HD in this case I checked for
roof shingles and it happened that there was a broken bundle with a few
shingles missing. The manager for that area marked the partial bundle down
to the point I dare not refuse to bring it home to cover the ramp. I put
hand rails on each side to prevent me from walking off of the side of the
ramp without thinking an twisting my ankle again at night.

Photos at links below.

http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001345.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001344.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001343.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001342.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001341.jpg
http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/s7001340.jpg