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Phil[_11_] September 8th 08 01:44 PM

Water heater problem
 
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?

LouB September 8th 08 02:21 PM

Water heater problem
 
Phil wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


You might try rec.outdoors.rv-travel group, but be warned the group is
basically a name calling bunch of weirdos. However there are a few
knowledgable folks in there.

Lou

Flatus Johnson September 8th 08 02:28 PM

Water heater problem
 
"Phil" wrote in message
...
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


Call 1-800-HOME DEPOT, ask for water heater department, give them your
address and credit card number...



SteveBell September 8th 08 02:33 PM

Water heater problem
 
Phil wrote:

Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


You can either replace the valve or replace the water heater. How much
money do you want to spend? How's the heater? Does it work otherwise?

I'd start by turning off the water supply and working the valve open
and closed a few times. That *might* loosen up the deposits that are
causing the problem and give you another year or two.

If you want to replace the valve, it's a straightforward job. You just
have to have the tools. If all the pipes are soldered in place, I
recommend you have a handyman or plumber in to do the replacement. If
you're adventurous, borrow a book from the library and learn to sweat
copper.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

N8N September 8th 08 03:01 PM

Water heater problem
 
On Sep 8, 8:44*am, (Phil) wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. *The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* * I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


Well, your water heater has already exceeded its design life. That
said, you can probably get more service out of it simply by replacing
the T/P valve. they're less than $20 at your favorite plumbing
supply. In the meantime, try flipping the handle on the T/P valve a
couple times, if it's a lime deposit that is holding it open you might
be able to blast the gunk out and get it to seal again (but it still
needs to be replaced, as there wouldn't be gunk on the seat to begin
with if it weren't opening occasionally)

I would probably go ahead and replace the T/P valve as an immediate
repair and then start thinking about whether the whole tank should be
replaced or not. If you're feeling froggy you could pull the anode
and see what kind of condition it's in.

good luck

nate

Steve Barker DLT September 8th 08 03:34 PM

Water heater problem
 
replace the t&p valve.


s


"Phil" wrote in message
...
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?




Tony Hwang September 8th 08 03:43 PM

Water heater problem
 
Phil wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?

Hi,
At 13 years it is nearing end of it's life. P&T valve is known to go
bad. Also is your water hard? Then there could be lots of scale build up
inside tank. Have been flushing th tank regularly(once or twice a year)?

phil scott September 8th 08 04:12 PM

Water heater problem
 
On Sep 8, 5:44*am, (Phil) wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. *The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* * I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


replace the valve, it has a leaky seat... cost about $40 at home
depot...take the old one in so you can match it.


Phil scott

phil scott September 8th 08 04:14 PM

Water heater problem
 
On Sep 8, 6:33*am, "SteveBell"
wrote:
Phil wrote:
Hi:


Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. *The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* * I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.


What now?


You can either replace the valve or replace the water heater. How much
money do you want to spend? How's the heater? Does it work otherwise?

I'd start by turning off the water supply and working the valve open
and closed a few times. That *might* loosen up the deposits that are
causing the problem and give you another year or two.

If you want to replace the valve, it's a straightforward job. You just
have to have the tools. If all the pipes are soldered in place, I
recommend you have a handyman or plumber in to do the replacement. If
you're adventurous, borrow a book from the library and learn to sweat
copper.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX


good advice, except that the relief valve mentioned screws directly
onto the water heater... (3/4" mpt).

Phil scott

SteveBell September 8th 08 05:06 PM

Water heater problem
 
phil scott wrote:

On Sep 8, 6:33*am, "SteveBell"
wrote:
Phil wrote:
Hi:


Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. *The temperature is set
at a low-warm about 120* * I am getting a slow but constant
discharge from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain
line goes thru the floor and discharges under the home.


What now?


You can either replace the valve or replace the water heater. How
much money do you want to spend? How's the heater? Does it work
otherwise?

I'd start by turning off the water supply and working the valve open
and closed a few times. That might loosen up the deposits that are
causing the problem and give you another year or two.

If you want to replace the valve, it's a straightforward job. You
just have to have the tools. If all the pipes are soldered in
place, I recommend you have a handyman or plumber in to do the
replacement. If you're adventurous, borrow a book from the library
and learn to sweat copper.


good advice, except that the relief valve mentioned screws directly
onto the water heater... (3/4" mpt).


That's true, but the drain piping could be either sweated to the valve
or screwed in.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

[email protected] September 8th 08 05:09 PM

Water heater problem
 
On Sep 8, 8:44�am, (Phil) wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. �The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* � I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


might try ncycling the valve repeatedly opening and closing, at 13
years i would replace the tank, its paST ITS DESIGN LIFE

Don & Lucille September 8th 08 09:11 PM

Water heater problem
 
Check your water pressure
"Phil" wrote in message
...
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?




Old and Grunpy September 8th 08 10:37 PM

Water heater problem
 
As you have been advised replace valve or replace the heater
to replace the valve get valve and one compression fitting size
to match valve outlet, fitting can be reducing type
3/4" FPT to 5/8" OD on piece of tubing small pipe wrench
adjustable and you are ready to get it done 1/2 hour finish
Tony

"Phil" wrote in message
...
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?




Don & Lucille September 8th 08 11:25 PM

Water heater problem
 
code doesn't allow the outlet of a temperature and pressure relief valve to
be reduced although you can bush down the inlet
"Old and Grunpy" wrote in message
...
As you have been advised replace valve or replace the heater
to replace the valve get valve and one compression fitting size
to match valve outlet, fitting can be reducing type
3/4" FPT to 5/8" OD on piece of tubing small pipe wrench
adjustable and you are ready to get it done 1/2 hour finish
Tony

"Phil" wrote in message
...
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?






[email protected] September 9th 08 02:26 PM

Water heater problem
 
On Sep 9, 8:33*am, Blattus Slafaly
wrote:
Phil wrote:
Hi:


Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. *The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* * I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.


What now?


Put a new valve, then when you buy a new tank you can use that one on it
and not have to buy a another new one.

--
Blattus Slafaly *? 3 * * :) *7/8



The new tank comes with the TPR valve installed.

He can replace the valve on the old one and they don't cost $40 as
previously suggested. More like $10-15.

I'd evaluate how much damage could be expected if the 13 year old tank
goes and suddenly starts leaking. At 13 years, it's at the typical
life expectancy for a nat gas heater. It could be wise to replace
when you can get a good deal, etc, as opposed to panic mode later.

Phil[_11_] September 10th 08 05:27 PM

Water heater problem- update
 
(Phil) wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


Since the tank is at least 13yo we decided to replace it. Up until a
couple years ago our community was on a well water system. Heavy iron &
mineral content. Wouldn't surprise me if the tank was filled 1/3+ with
sediment. Our community switched over to city water, which is SO MUCH
BETTER.

What really hurts is the cost. We are having Sears do the job. I know, I
know but we have no choice. We need it done right, and since we currently
have no income coming in, we have to put it on the charge.

Total is $775. that's replacement 30 tank, install, haul away, and
permits. The water heaters for mobile homes must be built to certain codes
and run more expensive. Can't use a residential unit in a mobile home
application. It is on order, and will hopefully be installed Friday.

Phil (Original poster)

Old and Grunpy September 10th 08 07:01 PM

Water heater problem- update
 

"Phil" wrote in message
...
(Phil) wrote:
Hi:

Need some advice on this. We have an older mobile home, 1973.
Currently on our second hot water heater, installed about 13 years
ago. It is a natural gas 30 gallon unit. The temperature is set at a
low-warm about 120* I am getting a slow but constant discharge
from the temperature/pressure release valve. The drain line goes
thru the floor and discharges under the home.

What now?


Since the tank is at least 13yo we decided to replace it. Up until a
couple years ago our community was on a well water system. Heavy iron &
mineral content. Wouldn't surprise me if the tank was filled 1/3+ with
sediment. Our community switched over to city water, which is SO MUCH
BETTER.

What really hurts is the cost. We are having Sears do the job. I know, I
know but we have no choice. We need it done right, and since we currently
have no income coming in, we have to put it on the charge.


Sears Big big mistake uless heater/tank is made by some one ales


Total is $775. that's replacement 30 tank, install, haul away, and
permits. The water heaters for mobile homes must be built to certain codes
and run more expensive. Can't use a residential unit in a mobile home
application. It is on order, and will hopefully be installed Friday.

Phil (Original poster)




[email protected] September 10th 08 07:51 PM

Water heater problem
 
several homes around here have had this problem and increase in water
pressure was causing it. they installed a ballast tank on the water
heater to fix it.. but i agree the valve may be deteriorated letting it
leak.

----------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm



Travis A Phillips November 14th 19 11:44 AM

Water heater problem- update
 
replying to Old and Grunpy, Travis A Phillips wrote:
Theron pilot light os al that lights the burner doesnt ignight tales 24 hrs yo
he at enough saber d'Or a Quico shower


--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...em-329921-.htm




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