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Default What is the typical underlayment for hardwood flooring?

I will be installing some pre-finished hardwood floors on the second
story bedrooms.

This will replace the existing carpet.

I was looking at the thicker solid type prefinished.

Is it just a type of tar paper over the existing plywood? Or is there
more to it.
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Default What is the typical underlayment for hardwood flooring?

aemeijers wrote in
:

Red Green wrote:
The dude wrote in news:jIWdnaauRdI5-
:

I will be installing some pre-finished hardwood floors on the second
story bedrooms.

This will replace the existing carpet.

I was looking at the thicker solid type prefinished.

Is it just a type of tar paper over the existing plywood? Or is
there more to it.


In this particular case, the mfgrs instructions for the particular
flooring over a particular existing flooring type is what you really
need to follow. They should know their product best as well as
following it will keep the warranty valid if it's worth anything to
start with.

FWIW, back in the stone age, for Bruce 3/4 T&G, we always used the red
resin paper. The black stuff stinks too much. They told us it was to
cut down on squeaking. Local real dealer (not big-box) or manufacturer
web site, will have the spec sheet for installation. Note that if the
rooms are now carpeted, with no hardwood underneath, there is likely a
layer of particle board or something that will need to come up, to
keep floor from getting taller and interfering with doors, baseboards,
and such. If house has forced-air heat, pull up a register and peek in
there with a mirror and a flashlight to see what you are dealing with.

--
aem sends...


Used that red stuff on a 3/4 T&G floor just as you did. Nailed (manual
flooring nailer, ughhhh!). Was there 15 yrs. Never a peep.
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Default What is the typical underlayment for hardwood flooring?

I would think the underpad and carpet coming out would be pretty close to
the 3/4" floor going in. How old is the house? Chances are the carpet is
installed directly on plywood or OSB that is your subfloor, you don't want
to remove that. If you didn't fall through it with carpet then its plenty
adequate to put your wood floor onto. I've read that staples work better for
OSB and nails are better for wood/plywood. I used the red resin paper, some
say it isn't necessary but its cheap anyway.


"aemeijers" wrote in message
...
Red Green wrote:
The dude wrote in news:jIWdnaauRdI5-
:

I will be installing some pre-finished hardwood floors on the second
story bedrooms.

This will replace the existing carpet.

I was looking at the thicker solid type prefinished.

Is it just a type of tar paper over the existing plywood? Or is there
more to it.


In this particular case, the mfgrs instructions for the particular
flooring over a particular existing flooring type is what you really need
to follow. They should know their product best as well as following it
will keep the warranty valid if it's worth anything to start with.

FWIW, back in the stone age, for Bruce 3/4 T&G, we always used the red
resin paper. The black stuff stinks too much. They told us it was to cut
down on squeaking. Local real dealer (not big-box) or manufacturer web
site, will have the spec sheet for installation. Note that if the rooms
are now carpeted, with no hardwood underneath, there is likely a layer of
particle board or something that will need to come up, to keep floor from
getting taller and interfering with doors, baseboards, and such. If house
has forced-air heat, pull up a register and peek in there with a mirror
and a flashlight to see what you are dealing with.

--
aem sends...





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Default What is the typical underlayment for hardwood flooring?

On Sep 7, 7:37*pm, The dude wrote:
I will be installing some pre-finished hardwood floors on the second
story bedrooms.

This will replace the existing carpet.

I was looking at the thicker solid type prefinished.

Is it just a type of tar paper over the existing plywood? *Or is there
more to it.


Just put down a Bruce 3/4" hardwood floor. Used the red resin paper
also. One thing that I did do was to locate all of the floor joist
and screw the decking to them. This will eliminate squeaks both
present and future. I eliminated a ton of squeaks, mostly in the
kitchen. Floors look awesome....

paul
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