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Default Shut off water when washer not in use?

Left the house without turning off the water!???? naughty, naughty.


s


"Art" wrote in message
m...


I can tell you an icemaker story. A neighbor had GE service her
refrigerator and right after they were done left town for 2 weeks. When
she came back the house was flooded because the ice maker line had been
damaged when the refrigerator was pushed back into position. The good
part of the story is GE gave no arguement and paid to have her house
repaired.... which was quite extensive.



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Default -google_groups- Shut off water when washer not in use?

In article , "MLD" wrote:

"George" wrote in message
. ..
Smitty Two wrote:
In article , "MLD" wrote:

"George" wrote in message
...
Jerry wrote:
On Sep 2, 2:58 pm, "MLD" wrote:

pressure pulses. Get yourself a single lever Watts valve.
Like this?
http://www.pexsupply.com/Categories....D=610&brandid=

First I heard of this. Interesting. Convenient. Cheap insurance.

Jerry
Exactly, if you're handy you can put it in yourself. As noted below--a
one finger flip and both the hot and cold water are shutoff. A real
cheap solution- All these guys who say "Never" are going to eat their
words one day.
MLD





They are exactly what you described and also inexpensive. One quick
motion and the water is off. Those valves have become really common in
the past maybe 15 years or so. I don't think I have ever seen new
construction or remodeling where they weren't used. The local real
supply house has them in the area right behind the counter with the
other commonly sold stuff.

All right, I'm an idiot. How do you install the thing, assuming you get
the threaded variety? Unions above it?


The common version isn't threaded and is made to solder directly to your
1/2" tubing. They are simple to install and no unions etc are needed. You
remove the valve body to protect it from heat (two screws) and clean/flux
the fittings and do the same with the tubing. Sweat and put the valve body
back on.


That's the way but be honest, it's not quite that simple. Requires a bit
more work since the hot and cold lines must align with the valve etc. BTW,
if ever they leak you don't have to replace the whole valve. Get a new one
and just replace the innards using the old valve's body
MLD


Yeah, sure doesn't seem like duck soup to retrofit. First you'd have to
get the supply pipe spacing adjusted correctly. In my case I'd have to
work back a fair way just to get away from the walls far enough to even
get the paint off the old pipe.

I don't quite understand why they even make the threaded version.
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