First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. Does it
matter? Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V

wrote:
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. Does it
matter? Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.


Do your best guess on number of bundles. The store from which you buy them
will almost certainly take back unopened bundles (or sell you some more if
you underestimate). Of course you should verify that policy first, but any
reputable supplier should be more than happy to accommodate you.

Tearing off is always best - for several reasons.

1. It gives you an opportunity to inspect, and repair if necessary, areas
not otherwise visible.
2. It decreases the weight on the roof and, to some degree, the heat buildup
on the new shingles.
3. It's easier to do a good job on flashings, vents, and gutters.

The downside is, of course, the cost. There's a lot of labor involved in
removing the old shingles and usually some charge to haul off and dispose of
the junk.

wrote in message
...
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. Does it
matter? Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V

Need to know the pitch. Then it's simple math and geometry.

s



wrote in message
...
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. Does it
matter? Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V

wrote:
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. Does it
matter? Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V


Remember the geometry story problems from junior high school? This is
one of those. From the ground-level dimensions, and the approximate
angles of the gable ends (the 'a-frames'), you should be able to get a
pretty close square footage of the shingle area. (hint- a2+b2=c2 will
give you the dimensions of half of each gable.) Take that plus a 10 %
fudge factor for wastage, and you should know how many bundles of
shingles (3 bundles per 100 sq. feet) you will need. There is also the
cost of flashing, ice dam, misc special materials, and so forth. Don't
sweat the exact bundle count- they are cheap, and it is only a tiny
fraction of the installed price. And make sure they leave at least the
last partial bundle behind, and stash it away someplace cool and dry,
for any future repair work.

As to tear-off vs. overlay? IMHO, which is largely supported by most
regular posters on here, tear-off and start from bare wood is the best
way to go. It allows you to inspect the deck and flashing and repair any
bad spots, and makes the new roof look better and last longer. It is
also a lot lighter in weight, which makes a difference in snow country.
It does cost a few hundred more, and adds a day or two to the job, but
considered against the several thousand the work will cost, it is cheap
insurance.

Most roofing companies offer free estimates. Call 3 or 4 out for a site
visit. Throw out any that try to hard-sell you T-lock overlay shingles
or have a slick salesman with fancy brochures- the good ones will send
an actual roofer. Specify the same shingles with each company, typically
25-year 'architectural' (aka textured) shingles are the current
standard. Specify ice dam membrane in the valleys and along the eaves,
and refresh of any damaged deck and flashing. Make sure they all quote
the same vent system, usually ridge vent these days, but at least new
metal vents if that is what is up there. (If more vents are needed, this
is the best time to add them.) The top companies in your area will
likely be within a few hundred dollars of each other. All the usual
caveats about making sure the company is licensed, bonded, and has
workmans comp apply- a quality company will have all that info
available, and not be offended if you ask. (All mine included copies
with their bids as a matter of course.) Avoid any companies that the guy
runs out of his truck- drive by their office/yard, and see if they keep
it clean and in good condition. Doesn't have to be a fancy building, and
the trucks don't have to be new and shiny, but hillbilly is as hillbilly
does, and I've found that subs who can't even keep their own operation
looking neat and workmanlike don't do any better on the jobsite. Plus of
course the usual- ask for addresses of previous jobs they did, like 2-3
years ago, and drive by and see how they look from the street.

I did all the above, and ended up going with a ma-and-pa outfit just
down the road. They beat the slick places by several hundred dollars,
and they were in and out in 5 days, and cleaned up after themselves.

--
aem sends...

On Aug 31, 8:22*pm, aemeijers wrote:
wrote:
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. *I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. *Does it
matter? *Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V

Remember the geometry story problems from junior high school? This is
one of those. From the ground-level dimensions, and the approximate
angles of the gable ends (the 'a-frames'), you should be able to get a
pretty close square footage of the shingle area. (hint- a2+b2=c2 will
give you the dimensions of half of each gable.) Take that plus a 10 %
fudge factor for wastage, and you should know how many bundles of
shingles (3 bundles per 100 sq. feet) you will need. *There is also the
cost of flashing, ice dam, misc special materials, and so forth. Don't
sweat the exact bundle count- they are cheap, and it is only a tiny
fraction of the installed price. And make sure they leave at least the
last partial bundle behind, and stash it away someplace cool and dry,
for any future repair work.

As to tear-off vs. overlay? IMHO, which is largely supported by most
regular posters on here, tear-off *and start from bare wood is the best
way to go. It allows you to inspect the deck and flashing and repair any
bad spots, and makes the new roof look better and last longer. It is
also a lot lighter in weight, which makes a difference in snow country.
It does cost a few hundred more, and adds a day or two to the job, but
considered against the several thousand the work will cost, it is cheap
insurance.

Most roofing companies offer free estimates. Call 3 or 4 out for a site
visit. Throw out any that try to hard-sell you T-lock overlay shingles
or have a slick salesman with fancy brochures- the good ones will send
an actual roofer. Specify the same shingles with each company, typically
25-year 'architectural' (aka textured) shingles are the current
standard. Specify ice dam membrane in the valleys and along the eaves,
and refresh of any damaged deck and flashing. Make sure they all quote
the same vent system, usually ridge vent these days, but at least new
metal vents if that is what is up there. (If more vents are needed, this
is the best time to add them.) The top companies in your area will
likely be within a few hundred dollars of each other. All the usual
caveats about making sure the company is licensed, bonded, and has
workmans comp apply- a quality company will have all that info
available, and not be offended if you ask. (All mine included copies
with their bids as a matter of course.) Avoid any companies that the guy
runs out of his truck- drive by their office/yard, and see if they keep
it clean and in good condition. Doesn't have to be a fancy building, and
the trucks don't have to be new and shiny, but hillbilly is as hillbilly
does, and I've found that subs who can't even keep their own operation
looking neat and workmanlike don't do any better on the jobsite. Plus of
course the usual- ask for addresses of previous jobs they did, like 2-3
years ago, and drive by and see how they look from the street.

I did all the above, and ended up going with a ma-and-pa outfit just
down the road. They beat the slick places by several hundred dollars,
and they were in and out in 5 days, and cleaned up after themselves.

--
aem sends...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Many thanks again to all.

As to the venting, currently the only vents are the louvered vents in
the ends of the gable(?) ends. I was thinking about having two air
turbin vents installed. The attic is very well insulated and it is
VERY hot in the attic during the summer here in VA.

Are these vents efficient? If so yes and I have them installed do they
need to be covered in the winter months?

I appreciate everyone's patience, time and efforts answering my
questions.

V_V

wrote:

As to the venting, currently the only vents are the louvered vents in
the ends of the gable(?) ends. I was thinking about having two air
turbin vents installed. The attic is very well insulated and it is
VERY hot in the attic during the summer here in VA.

You've got stacks for sewers, exhausts for (gas) water heaters and furnaces.


Are these vents efficient? If so yes and I have them installed do they
need to be covered in the winter months?


Turbine vents are very efficient inasmuch as their energy consumption is
zero! They convert mechanical energy (wind) into suction. But they don't
work worth beans when there's no wind. For that reason, also add ridge
vents.

In other words, when you re-do your roof, add ridge vents AND turbines. This
brings up another point:

You can't have too much soffit vents. Whatever you've got, double it. You
can find calculations for the total necessary soffit venting on the web.

And, no, you don't cover them in the winter. Maintaining circulation in the
attic, even when cold, is appropriate to prevent condensation and and
attendant rot.

On Aug 31, 3:08*pm, wrote:
First thanks for the input about my home equity inquiry.

My first improvement will be a new roof. *I want to be sure I'm not
paying for more bundles of shingles than I will actually need.

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape

Both are conventional A-roof construction and the utility room is tied
to the main part of house (roof).

Also, I've heard differing opinions as to whether or not to have old
shingles removed vs just layering the new roof over the old. *Does it
matter? *Or is it safe and efficient to put new over old?

Thanks very much.

V_V

You have good answer to your questions.

Are you planning to do the work yourself?

If so, and you haven't done it before, read the bundle and follow
those instructions. There is nothing requiring a rocket scientist to
roofing but it has to be done right. The bundle will give the correct
'how to'.

One point if you are doing it yourself. Please, please, do not run it
so the cutouts (if those are the type shingles you use) line up
vertically running up the roof. That is a sure sign that an amateur
did the work. Stagger the joints as thebundles will show. You wind up
with a far, far better looking roof and errors in lineup pretty well
just disappear.

Also, again if you are doing it, purchas a shingle hatchet. It spaces
the shingles for you and saves and immense amoutn of time. Took me 2
jobs before I got one for the third and kicked myself for not doing it
on the first one.

Harry K

So, how do I measure my roof to determine how many bundles will be
needed?

My house is a conventional rectangular ranch (30'x60') and has a
10'x12' utility room attached on the end of back of house, giving it
an L shape


Need to know the pitch. Then it's simple math and geometry.

... or you can just measure the surface of the roof.

want to try something different, perhaps you could take photos of the
various roof surfaces with both a vertical and horizontal rules in the
photo. Then you can use the photo to figure out the area.

Another way is to use google map satellite view, but you'd need to obtain
the roof pitch some other way

On Aug 31, 11:54*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

As to the venting, currently the only vents are the louvered vents in
the ends of the gable(?) ends. *I was thinking about having two air
turbin vents installed. *The attic is very well insulated and it is
VERY hot in the attic during the summer here in VA.

You've got stacks for sewers, exhausts for (gas) water heaters and furnaces.



Are these vents efficient? If so yes and I have them installed do they
need to be covered in the winter months?

Turbine vents are very efficient inasmuch as their energy consumption is
zero! They convert mechanical energy (wind) into suction. But they don't
work worth beans when there's no wind. For that reason, also add ridge
vents.

In other words, when you re-do your roof, add ridge vents AND turbines. This
brings up another point:

You can't have too much soffit vents. Whatever you've got, double it. You
can find calculations for the total necessary soffit venting on the web.

And, no, you don't cover them in the winter. Maintaining circulation in the
attic, even when cold, is appropriate to prevent condensation and and
attendant rot.

Gosh no! You never seal off an attic; winter or summer. It must remain
ventilated to avoid condensation, mould and rot. The absolute minimum
venting (here anyway) IIRC is around 3 square feet per 1000 sq feet of
attic 'floor area'. BUT it must be distributed so that there is cross-
ventilation. You insulate your house ceilings and you can't have too
much attic venting.