Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

Hi all - I want to replace my non-IC recessed lights with IC (and
preferable air tight) recessed lights. Is it possible to do this
without going into the attic? Also, is this a DIY job? I've swapped
out ceiling lights and have hung ceiling fans before and would like to
do this my self. It's all ready wired, so how difficult could it be?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...
Hi all - I want to replace my non-IC recessed lights with IC (and
preferable air tight) recessed lights. Is it possible to do this
without going into the attic? Also, is this a DIY job? I've swapped
out ceiling lights and have hung ceiling fans before and would like to
do this my self. It's all ready wired, so how difficult could it be?

Thanks in advance for your help!


If the existing recessed lights are the remodel type, then you should be
able remove them from below. However if they were installed before the
ceiling was installed, you will need to go up in the attic to remove them.
In that case you may find that the existing wiring may not be long enough to
reach the new IC remodel housings that you plan to install.

I don't know if there is such a thing as an airtight IC remodeling housing,
but you could install the new construction units from above though it will
be a lot more (Uncomfortable) work. You may be able to get airtight trims.

There is at least one manufacturer that puts out fireproof housings to go
over recessed light fixtures. You may want to look into something like that
to cover over your existing lights rather than rip them out. I can't
remember who makes them.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

Yes, the ones that are currently in there are remodel types; easy to
pull out. How easy would it be to rewire through that hole? And can a
DIYer do it?

I did look for somthing to cover them, but only found a product made
by Tenmat http://www.tenmat-us.com/fire-protect-products.html. Not
sure if that's what you were referring to. something like that would
certainly be the easiest!

Thanks for your input. :-)

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
Hi all - I want to replace my non-IC recessed lights with IC (and
preferable air tight) recessed lights. Is it possible to do this
without going into the attic? Also, is this a DIY job? I've swapped
out ceiling lights and have hung ceiling fans before and would like to
do this my self. It's all ready wired, so how difficult could it be?

Thanks in advance for your help!


If the existing recessed lights are the remodel type, then you should be
able remove them from below. However if they were installed before the
ceiling was installed, you will need to go up in the attic to remove them.
In that case you may find that the existing wiring may not be long enough
to reach the new IC remodel housings that you plan to install.

I don't know if there is such a thing as an airtight IC remodeling
housing, but you could install the new construction units from above
though it will be a lot more (Uncomfortable) work. You may be able to get
airtight trims.

There is at least one manufacturer that puts out fireproof housings to go
over recessed light fixtures. You may want to look into something like
that to cover over your existing lights rather than rip them out. I can't
remember who makes them.

I know Halo makes a retrofit IC-Air tite. I think the housing is H7RICAT and
the typical air tight trim is 30-WAT

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...
Yes, the ones that are currently in there are remodel types; easy to
pull out. How easy would it be to rewire through that hole? And can a
DIYer do it?


Well they were originally wired through that hole so you shouldn't have much
trouble. I don't know your skill and experience level or what tools you own
so I have no idea if you could do this or not. Try taking one apart and see
what happens. Worst case scenario is that you will need to call an
electrician in to do the work.



I did look for somthing to cover them, but only found a product made
by Tenmat http://www.tenmat-us.com/fire-protect-products.html. Not
sure if that's what you were referring to. something like that would
certainly be the easiest!


Those are the ones I was thinking about. I've never used them, but if you
want to block the heat from escaping out of your house and be able to
insulate around the lights, it seems as that may be a good way to go.

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. *Keep in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of *75 as opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.



You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up as a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second layer of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were installed. If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

On Aug 28, 4:53*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...



You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. *These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. *The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. *Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! *Now other issues come up as a
result. *Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans may
not secure easily to the drywall. *Halo mentions in their catalog that the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. *My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". *After that those clips
are pain to lock in. *If the cans are along side of joists you can drill a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second layer of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were installed. *If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. *You should be able to check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...
On Aug 28, 4:53 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...



You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep
in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as
opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up as
a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second layer
of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were installed.
If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)



At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some valid
reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress, and
Lightolier for sizes.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

On Aug 29, 8:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 28, 4:53 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:



wrote in message

...

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended. Keep
in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as
opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up as
a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second layer
of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were installed.
If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)

At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some valid
reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress, and
Lightolier for sizes.

Well, Lightolier did have a very close size, that hopefully will
work. I'm getting them from a local company, so returns will be easy
if there are problems. These were more expensive than the Halos, but
they are ic rated AND will be air tight. Let's keep the fingers
crossed!

Again, thanks for your all the assistance from this forum.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...
On Aug 29, 8:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 28, 4:53 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:



wrote in message

...

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended.
Keep
in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as
opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up
as
a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans
may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that
the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those
clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill
a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second
layer
of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were
installed.
If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to
check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if
the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)

At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some valid
reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress, and
Lightolier for sizes.

Well, Lightolier did have a very close size, that hopefully will
work. I'm getting them from a local company, so returns will be easy
if there are problems. These were more expensive than the Halos, but
they are ic rated AND will be air tight. Let's keep the fingers
crossed!

Again, thanks for your all the assistance from this forum.



Let us know how the job goes and the final outcome. Pictures would be
great.

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

On Aug 30, 9:36 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Aug 29, 8:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 28, 4:53 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:

wrote in message

...

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended.
Keep
in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as
opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come up
as
a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel cans
may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog that
the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those
clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can drill
a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second
layer
of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were
installed.
If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to
check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if
the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)

At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some valid
reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress, and
Lightolier for sizes.

Well, Lightolier did have a very close size, that hopefully will
work. I'm getting them from a local company, so returns will be easy
if there are problems. These were more expensive than the Halos, but
they are ic rated AND will be air tight. Let's keep the fingers
crossed!

Again, thanks for your all the assistance from this forum.

Let us know how the job goes and the final outcome. Pictures would be
great.

Absolutely! BTW, how do you post pics in this forum? Just put the
photos in something like photobucket and then post the link here?

Replacing non-IC recessed lights
 

wrote in message
...
On Aug 30, 9:36 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...



On Aug 29, 8:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...
On Aug 28, 4:53 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:

wrote in message

...

You might want to also check out the lights that RBM recommended.
Keep
in
mind that IC lights are only rated for a maximum wattage of 75 as
opposed
to the non-IC which are rated for 150 watts.

I didn't realize that, but it's not a big deal. These lights are
rarely used, so going to a lower wattage is just fine.

It does look like the Halo H7RICAT will work. The only ssue I'll
have
is the ceiling is double dry walled. Hopefully the Halo can adjust
that much for a celing of that thickness.

You didn't mention the double drywall before! Now other issues come
up
as
a
result. Depending on the thickness of the ceiling the new remodel
cans
may
not secure easily to the drywall. Halo mentions in their catalog
that
the
ceiling thickness range is 3/8" to 5/8" for the remodel clips. My
experience is that you can push it to about 3/4". After that those
clips
are pain to lock in. If the cans are along side of joists you can
drill
a
hole or two in the side of the cans and screw them to the joists.

Another problem which you may find is whether or the not the second
layer
of
drywall was added on after the existing remodel housings were
installed.
If
so, it will be more difficult to remove them. You should be able to
check
for this by removing a trim and see if the housing is set back or if
the
housing lip is on the surface of the drywall.

Why do you want to swap out the cans?

Well, besides the double dry-wall, it gets better. I was just
assuming it was a 6" opening, but measured this am to be sure before I
ordered them. Assuming is bad - they are 7" openings, which puts me
back to the drawing board. Halo doesn't appear to have a remodel can
to replace the ones that are there. They have something but it is very
cost prohibitive at over $50 each. Is there another manufacturer that
makes them for this size?

BTW, there is no trim with these cans. The whole enchilada just pulls
out! There are clips placed between the layers of drywall holding
them in place.

oy vey.... maybe building boxes for them would be easier after
all! :-)

At this point I would just leave them as is unless there was some
valid
reason for replacement. Check other brands such as Juno, Progress,
and
Lightolier for sizes.

Well, Lightolier did have a very close size, that hopefully will
work. I'm getting them from a local company, so returns will be easy
if there are problems. These were more expensive than the Halos, but
they are ic rated AND will be air tight. Let's keep the fingers
crossed!

Again, thanks for your all the assistance from this forum.

Let us know how the job goes and the final outcome. Pictures would be
great.

Absolutely! BTW, how do you post pics in this forum? Just put the
photos in something like photobucket and then post the link here?



Yes although I have noticed from time to time that some people were able to
actually post pictures with their text.