I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes out the switch but it has low current flowing and the
overhead light will not light. I removed the overhead fixture and
tested it. There is no current flowing through to it. Can you tell me
what the problem is?

-------------------------------------

Based on what you said: Lack of or too weak an electromotive force.





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Perhaps your power is out.

s


"emgrene" wrote in message
...
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325494-.htm :

I have power to this switch. but it is low compared to others I tested. I
testing outlets in other places in my home. It just shows it is very weak
here. It also shows low current with the switch off or on but none to the
ceiling light?
-------------------------------------
Steve Barker DLT wrote:

Perhaps your power is out.

s


"emgrene" wrote in
message
...
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead
light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is
no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem
is?

-------------------------------------




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On Aug 17, 11:50�am, Blattus Slafaly
wrote:
emgrene wrote:
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------

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How do you measure current? Clamp on meter? Do you mean voltage?
Is there a second switch for the light?

--
Blattus Slafaly �? 3 � � �7/8- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

bet he is using a digital voltmeter, they show inductive voltages.

has OP checked ALL breakers and fuses? power likely out to that circuit

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

The way I tested it is a tester with the two probes and the small light. I
know very little about electral but felt like if it was just a switch I
could do that. But it appears it is more than that because I changed the
switch and it didn't change, The light is very bright when testing other
outlets.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:




I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light
will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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emgrene wrote:
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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Hi,
Do you trouble-shoot an AC circuit measuring durrent, not voltage?
What do you use ti measure AC current? I am just curious.

emgrene wrote:
emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

The way I tested it is a tester with the two probes and the small light. I
know very little about electral but felt like if it was just a switch I
could do that. But it appears it is more than that because I changed the
switch and it didn't change, The light is very bright when testing other
outlets.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:




I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light
will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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and counting!
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Hi,
I think you better check your brekar panel first. Sounds like
there is no power available.

how are you measuring "low compared to others tested"??

s


"emgrene" wrote in message
...
emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325494-.htm :

I have power to this switch. but it is low compared to others I tested. I
testing outlets in other places in my home. It just shows it is very weak
here. It also shows low current with the switch off or on but none to the
ceiling light?
-------------------------------------
Steve Barker DLT wrote:

Perhaps your power is out.

s


"emgrene" wrote in
message
...
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead
light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is
no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem
is?

-------------------------------------




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On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:12:16 GMT,
(emgrene) wrote:

I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes

I doubt if you measure the current at all. Many people say current
when they mean voltage, and few people have a device to measure AC
current.

So, did you measure the voltage or the current? Where were your
probes when you measured the voltage, and did you use an analog meter
or a digital meter?

And what was the voltage (or current) reading that you got when you
measured? Why don't you tell us that. There's a big difference
between 105 volts and 10 volts, and they mean diffferent things.

OH, you're using a light. They indicate voltage, not current. Because
test lights are not connected in series with the current you would
like to measure. Pleaes either learn enough to get your terminology
right, or give more details in the first place, like the fact that you
are using a neon test light.

You should get yourself a meter and learn to understand it. They are
less than 20 dollars at Home Depot or Radio Shack. RS is better
becaues they have several models. GET the second cheapest one that is
about 16 dollars, or get one from Harbor Freight, which is about 4
dollars on sale (6 at other times) plus shipping. The big
disadvantage of Harbor Freight meters is that the cheap ones don't
have audible indicators for continuity (When you measure resistance
and it's low enough, a huzzer sounds. Very convenient, and you don't
have to look at the meter. Cheap HF meters don't have that, but I
think 16 dollar RS meters do. )

Although digital meters can sometimes show misleading induced
voltages, you can learn to allow for that. And IMO they are easier to
use and work in more situations. But analog meters (those with a
needle that moves) won't show these induced voltages and can be
simpler to use.

out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light.

Fluorscent, compact fluorescent, or incandescant light?

I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it.

You probalby mean voltage here too.

Can you tell me what the problem is?

No. I need more info.

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:01:42 GMT,
(emgrene) wrote:

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

The way I tested it is a tester with the two probes and the small light. I
know very little about electral but felt like if it was just a switch I
could do that. But it appears it is more than that because I changed the

It's not MORE than that. It's other than that. The odds are near zero
that your switch was bad. I always save all the parts I replace until
a repair is finished. You should save your switch. You can use it
somewhere else.

Did you connect the tester between the ground and one wire of the
switch, and then connect the tester between the ground and the other
wire? If you had done that, you would have probably seen that when
the switch was ON, the light was the same in both places. That would
have indicated that the swtich was ON when it was suppposed to be ON.

If you did the same tests with the switch OFF, you probalby would have
gotten different results. Getting different results would have been
conclusive proof that the switch was good. But everything is so
much easier with a meter, that you shoudl buy a meter.

If you're at RS, also buy a bag of 10 test leads, the wires with
alligator clips at both ends. You can use one of them on your black
lead so that you can clip the other end to a ground (or whereever else
it might need to be in different circumstances). That will free up
one hand and greatly benefit you. It will even enable you to do
measurements while standing on a ladder.

The meter and the jumper wires will be under 25 dollars and will be
invaluable in fixing your house that costs 10's of thousands.

switch and it didn't change, The light is very bright when testing other
outlets.

Although I referred to induced voltages in my other post, iirc the
stray induced voltages under 25 volts that people worry about here as
being confusing are not enough to light a neon test light. What do
others say? (500 volts AC are enough to light a neon light, even
when the probes aren't touching anything.)

Is there any chance his test light is not neon? OP do you know?
Inside the bulb, is there a short thick (thicker than a pencil lead))
silver colored rod? If so, that's a neon light.

-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:




I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light
will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:uTYpk.91345$nD.28006@pd7urf1no...
emgrene wrote:
I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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Hi,
Do you trouble-shoot an AC circuit measuring durrent, not voltage?
What do you use ti measure AC current? I am just curious.

How many wires are coming into the switch's box? You may have straight power
to the light fixture, and the hot wire is broken and run through the 2 wires
back through the switch.
Tony

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:11:15 -0400, mm
wrote:

[snip]


OH, you're using a light. They indicate voltage, not current. Because
test lights are not connected in series with the current you would
like to measure.

A light isn't connected in series, only if you don't connect it in
series. Connected in series, it glows only when sufficient current is
flowing.

Pleaes either learn enough to get your terminology
right, or give more details in the first place, like the fact that you
are using a neon test light.


[snip]


Although digital meters can sometimes show misleading induced
voltages, you can learn to allow for that.

It would be useful if a meter had a "load" button. When pressed it
would connect a small load across the terminals (when measuring
voltage). A drop in the reading would indicate induced voltage.

[snip]
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"So far as I can remember, there is not one word
in the Gospels in praise of intelligence."
--Bertrand Russell

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:01:42 GMT,
(emgrene) wrote:

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

The way I tested it is a tester with the two probes and the small light. I
know very little about electral but felt like if it was just a switch I
could do that. But it appears it is more than that because I changed the
switch and it didn't change, The light is very bright when testing other
outlets.

Have you replaced the lamps in the fixture?

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 17:08:00 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:11:15 -0400, mm
wrote:

[snip]


OH, you're using a light. They indicate voltage, not current. Because
test lights are not connected in series with the current you would
like to measure.

A light isn't connected in series, only if you don't connect it in
series.

Well, I guess I was thinking of this guy. I know he didn't do that.
:-)

Connected in series, it glows only when sufficient current is
flowing.

IIRC my first test equipment worked like that. It was a 110 volt light
bulb, a socket, cord and an ice pick. I was 18 looking for a short,
trying to find out what was draining my battery in my '50 Olds.

Pleaes either learn enough to get your terminology
right, or give more details in the first place, like the fact that you
are using a neon test light.


[snip]


Although digital meters can sometimes show misleading induced
voltages, you can learn to allow for that.

It would be useful if a meter had a "load" button. When pressed it
would connect a small load across the terminals (when measuring
voltage). A drop in the reading would indicate induced voltage.

Good idea. One could make something like that that plugged into the
meter and the test leads plugged into it.

One of my meters has a DPDT slide switch on the leads, which makes it
very easy to change the polarity of the leads, good for testing diodes
and capacitors.

[snip]

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 18:29:16 -0400, metspitzer
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 16:01:42 GMT,
(emgrene) wrote:

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

The way I tested it is a tester with the two probes and the small light. I
know very little about electral but felt like if it was just a switch I
could do that. But it appears it is more than that because I changed the
switch and it didn't change, The light is very bright when testing other
outlets.

Have you replaced the lamps in the fixture?

I helped a friend of mine test a wall switch for a new flood light he
had installed. When we were done, I thought he had installed it
right, and it only didn't light because he'd forgotten to screw a bulb
in, but he volunteered it was because of the 3 toggle switches next to
each other, he'd forgotten which one controlled that light.

(At least we interchanged two of the switches so it was easier to
remember which was which.)

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

I don't have a volt meter and live in a small town, but will get one. I am
guessing now, that it could very well be the switch in the breaker box
that may be at fault. It just seems funny there is still juice running
through with the switch, on or off, but I guess there would be, but no
current at the light on or off. Thanks I will get a meter and check back,
if I am not able to fix the problem.I believe men are better at this
electral than wemon, but I am learning, Thanks for all your help.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:




I have a wall switch ths when tested shows low current flowing. I
changes
out the switch but it has low current flowing and the overhead light
will
not light. I removed the overhead fixture and tested it. There is no
current flowing through to it. Can you tell me what the problem is?

-------------------------------------




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"emgrene" wrote in message

I don't have a volt meter and live in a small town, but will get one. I am
guessing now, that it could very well be the switch in the breaker box
that may be at fault. It just seems funny there is still juice running
through with the switch, on or off, but I guess there would be, but no
current at the light on or off. Thanks I will get a meter and check back,
if I am not able to fix the problem.I believe men are better at this
electral than wemon, but I am learning, Thanks for all your help.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:


You have a switch in the breaker box? Do you mean the breaker? If you
suspect a bad breaker just move the wire to another breaker to test the
circuit. If it works, replace the breaker an reconnect.

OTOH, if you don't know the name of the things in the box perhaps you should
get some help.

In article ,
(emgrene) wrote:

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

I don't have a volt meter and live in a small town, but will get one. I am
guessing now, that it could very well be the switch in the breaker box
that may be at fault. It just seems funny there is still juice running
through with the switch, on or off, but I guess there would be, but no
current at the light on or off. Thanks I will get a meter and check back,
if I am not able to fix the problem.I believe men are better at this
electral than wemon, but I am learning, Thanks for all your help.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:



Never mind the meter, it won't help you, because you don't understand
the fundamentals. Call an electrician.

On Mon, 18 Aug 2008 03:55:23 GMT,
(emgrene) wrote:

emgrene had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...al-325490-.htm :

I don't have a volt meter and live in a small town, but will get one. I am
guessing now, that it could very well be the switch in the breaker box
that may be at fault. It just seems funny there is still juice running
through with the switch, on or off, but I guess there would be, but no
current at the light on or off. Thanks I will get a meter and check back,
if I am not able to fix the problem.I believe men are better at this
electral than wemon, but I am learning, Thanks for all your help.
-------------------------------------
emgrene wrote:

The test lamp you have should work. With the switch off, take the
tester and test one leg of the switch to the ground wire in the box.

The terminal at the "on" side of the switch will glow bright red.
Then take the tester and test the terminal at the "off" side of the
switch. It should not glow. Then turn the switch on. If everything
is correct at the switch, the tester should glow at both terminals.
Putting the tester on both leads at once might give you a slight glow.
This would seem to you as if the "juice" were barely there.

If the switch checks out, you need to test the fixture with the switch
in the "on" position.