I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:20:39 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting.

My 58 y/o could use some siding too, but she wants a face-lift.

My 14 y/o insists on using make-up.

One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:20:39 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting.

My 58 y/o could use some siding too, but she wants a face-lift.

My 14 y/o insists on using make-up.


Okay, Okay, so it's been a tough day and I need a proofreader (g).
Anybody have anything to say about what I should do with my 20 y/o
HOUSE.

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:42:00 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:20:39 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting.

My 58 y/o could use some siding too, but she wants a face-lift.

My 14 y/o insists on using make-up.


Okay, Okay, so it's been a tough day and I need a proofreader (g).
Anybody have anything to say about what I should do with my 20 y/o
HOUSE.

I make loads of typos and other mistakes. Gives people the chance to
make jokes.

I would have tried to answr your question but I've never even heard of
the stuff.

On Aug 13, 4:20 pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

What you are talking about is hardy plank.
I live on the Oregon coast & it is used here a lot,it with stand the
weather much better than wood & does not need painting as often.

On Aug 13, 7:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* *I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
* *Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

Fiber cement comes in panels as well as lap siding.
It takes a special blade or shears to cut and a mask should be worn.

T

Almost the "standard" these days on new
home construction.

http://www.jameshardie.com/



Kurt Ullman wrote:
I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

In article ,
Pat Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

Thanks for the information.

On Aug 14, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
*Pat Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

* Thanks for the information.
.
Sounded good to us until we asked a neighbour.
Some problems here; damp climate. Neighbour's 8 inch Hardy plank lap
siding delaminated in places.
However while there is/was a possibility that my neighbours batch was
improperly stored (out in the open?) before he bought and installed
it, the manufacturer's rep. gave him a refund and allowance for labour
for him to replace it on both ends of his A frame summer cabin. Wooden
8 inch pine on the other sides of his cabin is OK.

On Aug 13, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* *I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
* *Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

Note that Hardie plank should not be installed within 6" of any
horizontal surface, i.e. ground, steps, deck, etc. since it is prone
to moisture wicking.

KC

terry wrote:

On Aug 14, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article
, *Pat
Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

* Thanks for the information.
.
Sounded good to us until we asked a neighbour.
Some problems here; damp climate. Neighbour's 8 inch Hardy plank lap
siding delaminated in places.
However while there is/was a possibility that my neighbours batch was
improperly stored (out in the open?) before he bought and installed
it, the manufacturer's rep. gave him a refund and allowance for labour
for him to replace it on both ends of his A frame summer cabin. Wooden
8 inch pine on the other sides of his cabin is OK.

I've installed a ton of HardiePlank for Habitat for Humanity. Some
issues:
* Store it out of the rain. It's concrete, so it *will* absorb a
little water.
* It needs to be sealed on all sides. The Hardie brand comes primed,
but you need to seal the cut ends with caulk. We have younger
volunteers paint it all ahead of time. It's a good project for those
too young (according to the insurance wonks) to use tools. Once it's
painted, you can store it outside.
* If you nail too close to the corner, it can split into layers. This
doesn't appear to be a problem, since that area will be covered by the
next layer. Avoid this by drilling pilot holes with a small masonry bit.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

terry wrote:

On Aug 14, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article
, *Pat
Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

* Thanks for the information.
.
Sounded good to us until we asked a neighbour.
Some problems here; damp climate. Neighbour's 8 inch Hardy plank lap
siding delaminated in places.
However while there is/was a possibility that my neighbours batch was
improperly stored (out in the open?) before he bought and installed
it, the manufacturer's rep. gave him a refund and allowance for labour
for him to replace it on both ends of his A frame summer cabin. Wooden
8 inch pine on the other sides of his cabin is OK.

I've installed a ton of HardiePlank for Habitat for Humanity. Some
issues:

Thanks. But I am definitely not gonna install it myself (although I
now know what to look for when they ARE installing it). What I want to
know is how is it better than T1-11 to justify the extra $14,000 (nearly
double) that it would cost. Do I have to paint it less? Any energy
savings due to better insulating (or energy costs). Why is it (or not)
worth the extra money?

Kurt Ullman wrote:

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

terry wrote:

On Aug 14, 6:20 pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article
,
Pat Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

Thanks for the information.
.
Sounded good to us until we asked a neighbour.
Some problems here; damp climate. Neighbour's 8 inch Hardy plank
lap siding delaminated in places.
However while there is/was a possibility that my neighbours batch
was improperly stored (out in the open?) before he bought and
installed it, the manufacturer's rep. gave him a refund and
allowance for labour for him to replace it on both ends of his A
frame summer cabin. Wooden 8 inch pine on the other sides of his
cabin is OK.

I've installed a ton of HardiePlank for Habitat for Humanity. Some
issues:

Thanks. But I am definitely not gonna install it myself (although
I now know what to look for when they ARE installing it). What I want
to know is how is it better than T1-11 to justify the extra $14,000
(nearly double) that it would cost. Do I have to paint it less? Any
energy savings due to better insulating (or energy costs). Why is it
(or not) worth the extra money?

Ahhh, now I understand. All you have to do is hit me with a stick. :-)

* Since fiber-cement products (FCPs) are made of concrete and
fiberglass, it won't rot and bugs won't eat it. T1-11 is wood, and
usually cheap wood.

* FCPs are completely waterproof. T1-11 is also waterproof if
installed properly, but if the coating fails, there goes the
waterproofing.

* FCPs come primed and take paint well. T1-11 is bare wood, and you
have to prep and maintain it.

* The appearance is completely uniform. T1-11 has voids that show in
the grooves. You have to fill these before painting.

The major advantages, to me, are the rot resistance and uniformity.

Part of the price difference might be in labor. 4x8 panels go up faster
than lap siding. You can also buy FCPs in 4x8 panels, giving a similar
look to T1-11.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

Part of the price difference might be in labor. 4x8 panels go up faster
than lap siding. You can also buy FCPs in 4x8 panels, giving a similar
look to T1-11.

Thanks. Do you have to paint as often or is most of the savings in
maintenance not having to replace them every once in a while?

That's hard to say, but generally it does hold a
paint job a good bit longer than wood siding.

It depends on:
(a) Where you live
(b) Quality of the paint put on
(c) How the paint was put on


Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

Part of the price difference might be in labor. 4x8 panels go up faster
than lap siding. You can also buy FCPs in 4x8 panels, giving a similar
look to T1-11.

Thanks. Do you have to paint as often or is most of the savings in
maintenance not having to replace them every once in a while?

In article ,
Pat Barber wrote:

That's hard to say, but generally it does hold a
paint job a good bit longer than wood siding.

It depends on:
(a) Where you live
(b) Quality of the paint put on
(c) How the paint was put on


Personally I am not seeing a whole lot of reason to spend that much
extra money. Am I missing something?

"Kurt Ullman" wrote

Personally I am not seeing a whole lot of reason to spend that much
extra money. Am I missing something?

Possibly just one and this is area dependant. T1-11 can be attractive to
termites. In my area (Norfolk VA) this is a serious problem so the added
expense of the cement lap siding, if not going vinyl, is worth it in the
long run.

On Fri, 15 Aug 2008 08:37:35 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

In article ,
"SteveBell" wrote:

terry wrote:

On Aug 14, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
In article
, *Pat
Barber wrote:

http://www.jameshardie.com/

* Thanks for the information.
.
Sounded good to us until we asked a neighbour.
Some problems here; damp climate. Neighbour's 8 inch Hardy plank lap
siding delaminated in places.
However while there is/was a possibility that my neighbours batch was
improperly stored (out in the open?) before he bought and installed
it, the manufacturer's rep. gave him a refund and allowance for labour
for him to replace it on both ends of his A frame summer cabin. Wooden
8 inch pine on the other sides of his cabin is OK.

I've installed a ton of HardiePlank for Habitat for Humanity. Some
issues:

Thanks. But I am definitely not gonna install it myself (although I
now know what to look for when they ARE installing it). What I want to
know is how is it better than T1-11 to justify the extra $14,000 (nearly
double) that it would cost. Do I have to paint it less? Any energy
savings due to better insulating (or energy costs). Why is it (or not)
worth the extra money?

Had the t111 here. I put vinyl over it after watching it delaminate.

KC writes:
On Aug 13, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* *I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
* *Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

Note that Hardie plank should not be installed within 6" of any
horizontal surface, i.e. ground, steps, deck, etc. since it is prone
to moisture wicking.

KC

Are there any good siding alternatives (in plank form) that can be
used within 6" of a horizontal surface?

Thanks

blueman wrote:

KC writes:
On Aug 13, 6:20*pm, Kurt Ullman wrote:
* *I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting.
One of the contractors included in their bid replacing the current
plywood T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
* *Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

Note that Hardie plank should not be installed within 6" of any
horizontal surface, i.e. ground, steps, deck, etc. since it is prone
to moisture wicking.

Are there any good siding alternatives (in plank form) that can be
used within 6" of a horizontal surface?

The HardiePlank installation instructions say to maintain 1" - 2"
clearance around paths, steps, and driveways; and to maintain 6" (or
local code) above finished grade.

See figures 3 and 4 he
http://www.hardie.com/pdf/install/in...lank_south.pdf
I don't know where you're located, so I chose the "south" instructions.

Around here, *all* siding products must be at least 6" off the dirt to
discourage insects, especially termites.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX

On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:20:39 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

The T-1-11 siding on my house in Maryland lasted 30 years. It's
getting soft on all the edges now, and we have had some carpenter ants
move in a couple places.

I plan to tear off the T-1-11 and replace with 1/2" pressure treated
plywood. We are planning to install cedar shakes in the front and
hardiplank lap siding on the sides and back. We like the look of
cedar shingles, and happened into some leftovers from a friend's
recent installation.

We chose this over vinyl because we think it looks more appropriate
our older community.

"Paulaner" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Aug 2008 19:20:39 -0400, Kurt Ullman
wrote:

I am having some siding replaced on my 20 y/o before painting. One of
the contractors included in their bid replacing the current plywood
T1-11 with fiber cement lap siding.
Any comments on the pluses and minuses of the two options?

The T-1-11 siding on my house in Maryland lasted 30 years. It's
getting soft on all the edges now, and we have had some carpenter ants
move in a couple places.

I plan to tear off the T-1-11 and replace with 1/2" pressure treated
plywood. We are planning to install cedar shakes in the front and
hardiplank lap siding on the sides and back. We like the look of
cedar shingles, and happened into some leftovers from a friend's
recent installation.

We chose this over vinyl because we think it looks more appropriate
our older community.

I'm in a similar situation, Paulaner. About the same age on the siding but
the design onf this tract house and its hip roof don't lend well to a plain,
horizontal siding. The vertical orientation of the T1-11 ie appealing in
this application. By the same token the majority of people believe that it
looks cheap. I'll probably end up with a vinyl or Hardi srfac in the ext
year or two. Da**!