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#1
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Subpanel box wiring
On 2008-08-01, Uncle Monster wrote:
I don't believe a separate ground rod is called for or required. Common practice for sub-panel wiring is to float the neutral and use the ground at the main disconnect grounding point where it is connected to a ground rod and usually the cold water pipe also. Every structure requires a ground rod (electrode). So since this subpanel is in a separate structure, it gets its own ground rod, which is connected to the ground bar on the subpanel. |
#2
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Subpanel box wiring
Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-08-01, Uncle Monster wrote: I don't believe a separate ground rod is called for or required. Common practice for sub-panel wiring is to float the neutral and use the ground at the main disconnect grounding point where it is connected to a ground rod and usually the cold water pipe also. Every structure requires a ground rod (electrode). So since this subpanel is in a separate structure, it gets its own ground rod, which is connected to the ground bar on the subpanel. Are you sure about this? It's my understanding that a separate structure may use a separate ground (but is not required to) if and only if there is no other conductive path between the buildings, such as a phone line. -- Doug |
#3
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Subpanel box wiring
On 2008-08-01, Douglas Johnson wrote:
Are you sure about this? It's my understanding that a separate structure may use a separate ground (but is not required to) if and only if there is no other conductive path between the buildings, such as a phone line. Under the National Electric Code (NEC), every building gets a ground rod (electrode) which is appropriately connected at the service/feeder entrance. If this building is served by a utility with 240V/120V, they provide only 3 wires (two hots and a neutral), and the grounding electrode is connected to the service neutral at the service entrance. Thereafter, within that building, the ground and neutral are kept separate. If the building is served by a feeder from another building, then a 240V/120V feeder should be 4 wires--two hots, a neutral, and a ground. The neutral and ground are kept separate at the feeder entrance. The building's grounding electrode is connected to the ground bar in this feeder entrance. Under the 2005 NEC (and earlier), there is an exception to this requirement for a 4 wire feeder--if there is no other conductive path between the buildings (such as a phone line, water pipe, metallic gas pipe, etc.), then the ground wire and neutral in the feeder may be combined, allowing a 3 wire feeder. In this case, at the feeder entrance the grounding electrode is connected to the feeder neutral/ground. Thereafter, within the building, the ground and neutral are kept separate. However, the 2008 NEC has done away with this provision, and all 240V/120V feeders will need to be 4 wires. 4 wire feeders are superior, so even if you are under the 2005 NEC a 4 wire feeder is recommended. In fact, the electrical distribution system would arguably be safer if the utility provided a 4 wire feeder instead of a 3 wire feeder. But that is another matter. Cheers, Wayne |
#4
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 1, 12:12*pm, Douglas Johnson wrote:
Wayne Whitney wrote: On 2008-08-01, Uncle Monster wrote: I don't believe a separate ground rod is called for or required. Common practice for sub-panel wiring is to float the neutral and use the ground at the main disconnect grounding point where it is connected to a ground rod and usually the cold water pipe also. Every structure requires a ground rod (electrode). *So since this subpanel is in a separate structure, it gets its own ground rod, which is connected to the ground bar on the subpanel. Are you sure about this? *It's my understanding that a separate structure may use a separate ground (but is not required to) if and only if there is no other conductive path between the buildings, such as a phone line. -- Doug Ok, so I spoke to the inspector today and we talked about jumping the phases and the grounding rod issue. He suggested that I put all my breakers on one phase. He said I could jumper them together, but that the connectors for the hot leads are not designed to hold two wires. He said that if I want to jumper them I would have to use a pigtail and wire cap. But he strongly suggested that I use only one phase. So I went and got a new box that has three breaker positions for each phase, which is perfect. It has a convenient screw spot in the neutral bar for bonding, so I will ask the inspector when he comes if I need to bond the neutral. I also bought the extra ground bar. So on the ground rod-- he said I probably didn't need a ground rod, that it is debatable, but if it were his shed, he'd do the ground rod. The reason is that he would use one is because if there is ever a power surge that originates from the shed (IE lightning) that the #10 wire wouldn't be able to carry much. It has to carry the surge all the way back to the ground rod at the house. If there is a ground rod at the shed then it won't have to go all the way back to the house. I pointed out to him that if the ground rod is there and is causing RF problems or tripping my GFCIs that all I have to do is disconnect it. I didn't get a chance to ask about the floating neutral, sorry. He was in a hurry, so I got cut short. I'll post some pics tonight. Oh, also, about the loads I'm going to have on this: I have one circuit that will be running some occasional woodworking tools, like bandsaw, chop saw, drill press, etc. Occasionally I might run a router on it, but I can do that up at the garage if it trips breakers. It would be rare, at any rate. I have another circuit that will run some lights-- two flourescent lights over my work bench, a small ceiling fan with light and one light outside over the door. The final circuit only has two recepticles-- one for a small, window air conditioner and maybe a dorm fridge on the other. Thanks for all the great advice on this!!! John |
#6
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 1, 2:03*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-08-01, wrote: It has a convenient screw spot in the neutral bar for bonding, so I will ask the inspector when he comes if I need to bond the neutral. I also bought the extra ground bar. You do not bond the neutral, since you are providing an equipment grounding conductor in your feeder. *The neutral and EGC should be kept separate like a regular subpanel. Noted. So on the ground rod-- he said I probably didn't need a ground rod, that it is debatable, A ground rod is required, there's no debate. *:-) See gfretwell's post for the NEC citation. Ok. But I was doing one, anyway, so you'll get no debate from me on it! I would rather be over-prepared for whatever the inspector wants, so if that means ground rod, then a ground rod it will get. ...In that case a better GFCI should be found that is more resilient to electrical noise. Noted. Seems like if your air conditioner and fridge come on at the same time, and you are running your table saw, you may exceed 30 amps and trip your 120V feeder breaker. *You should check the nameplate ratings for those items and add them up. Will do. If it turns out I am right at the edge of the system's capacity then I can do without some things like the A/C or the fridge and still be perfectly happy with what I have. Thanks! John |
#7
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... On Aug 1, 12:12 pm, Douglas Johnson wrote: Wayne Whitney wrote: On 2008-08-01, Uncle Monster wrote: I don't believe a separate ground rod is called for or required. Common practice for sub-panel wiring is to float the neutral and use the ground at the main disconnect grounding point where it is connected to a ground rod and usually the cold water pipe also. Every structure requires a ground rod (electrode). So since this subpanel is in a separate structure, it gets its own ground rod, which is connected to the ground bar on the subpanel. Are you sure about this? It's my understanding that a separate structure may use a separate ground (but is not required to) if and only if there is no other conductive path between the buildings, such as a phone line. -- Doug Ok, so I spoke to the inspector today and we talked about jumping the phases and the grounding rod issue. He suggested that I put all my breakers on one phase. He said I could jumper them together, but that the connectors for the hot leads are not designed to hold two wires. He said that if I want to jumper them I would have to use a pigtail and wire cap. But he strongly suggested that I use only one phase. So I went and got a new box that has three breaker positions for each phase, which is perfect. It has a convenient screw spot in the neutral bar for bonding, so I will ask the inspector when he comes if I need to bond the neutral. I also bought the extra ground bar. So on the ground rod-- he said I probably didn't need a ground rod, that it is debatable, but if it were his shed, he'd do the ground rod. The reason is that he would use one is because if there is ever a power surge that originates from the shed (IE lightning) that the #10 wire wouldn't be able to carry much. It has to carry the surge all the way back to the ground rod at the house. If there is a ground rod at the shed then it won't have to go all the way back to the house. I pointed out to him that if the ground rod is there and is causing RF problems or tripping my GFCIs that all I have to do is disconnect it. I didn't get a chance to ask about the floating neutral, sorry. He was in a hurry, so I got cut short. I'll post some pics tonight. Oh, also, about the loads I'm going to have on this: I have one circuit that will be running some occasional woodworking tools, like bandsaw, chop saw, drill press, etc. Occasionally I might run a router on it, but I can do that up at the garage if it trips breakers. It would be rare, at any rate. I have another circuit that will run some lights-- two flourescent lights over my work bench, a small ceiling fan with light and one light outside over the door. The final circuit only has two recepticles-- one for a small, window air conditioner and maybe a dorm fridge on the other. Thanks for all the great advice on this!!! John It sounds like NEC is not this inspector's strong suit |
#8
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Subpanel box wiring
It sounds like NEC is not this inspector's strong suit- Hide quoted text - Honestly, I'll have to agree. I had already spoken to him once before and had asked how deep I needed to bury my wire. He said something like 6" for conduit and 18" for UF. I was pretty sure that wasn't right, but I didn't know for sure until later. I think it was just a slip on his part. Like maybe he was distracted or something... But he's been there for a while, so I don't know what to think. John |
#9
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Subpanel box wiring
Ok, I apologize for being so slow on this, but I've finally got photos: http://tinyurl.com/65s22f Saturday I installed the conduit on the back of the house. I've got the UF trench running underneath my screened-in porch, ending next to the crawlspace door. It comes up the wall from a riser of 3/4" PVC and into a 4x4 box. The 4x4 is where I connect the UF to the THHN (or whatever it is... I can never remember), which runs in the conduit across to my main breaker box. I've got the ground and neutral wires connected in my home breaker box, but the black is wire-capped and hanging loose. I've not yet gotten a breaker for it. I've installed the ground pole near the shed and connected it to the ground bar in the shed's breaker box. I haven't bonded the neutral to the box. I don't think it is called for in this situation, but I left the neutral bonding screw in a plastic bag in the box in case the inspector says I need it. All connections are made in the shed and I think I am ready for rough-in inspection. I'm planning to clean up a little and call inspections on Tuesday. Enjoy the pics and thanks! John |
#10
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... Ok, I apologize for being so slow on this, but I've finally got photos: http://tinyurl.com/65s22f Saturday I installed the conduit on the back of the house. I've got the UF trench running underneath my screened-in porch, ending next to the crawlspace door. It comes up the wall from a riser of 3/4" PVC and into a 4x4 box. The 4x4 is where I connect the UF to the THHN (or whatever it is... I can never remember), which runs in the conduit across to my main breaker box. I've got the ground and neutral wires connected in my home breaker box, but the black is wire-capped and hanging loose. I've not yet gotten a breaker for it. I've installed the ground pole near the shed and connected it to the ground bar in the shed's breaker box. I haven't bonded the neutral to the box. I don't think it is called for in this situation, but I left the neutral bonding screw in a plastic bag in the box in case the inspector says I need it. All connections are made in the shed and I think I am ready for rough-in inspection. I'm planning to clean up a little and call inspections on Tuesday. Enjoy the pics and thanks! Thanks for sharing. Not too bad for an amateur. Everything looks neat. Generally you don't leave the cable jacket on in the electrical panel more than 1/4" or so. Usually a different clamp on the ground rod is used for direct burial. We call them an acorn style ground rod clamp. The type that you used is for water pipes. The ground wires in the switch box are kind of short and not spliced properly. There are green wire connectors available with a hole in the them for making a splice on the grounds and bringing one pigtail out through the hole. Additional grounding pigtails come out just like any other on the bottom of the connector. I noticed that you didn't splice the #10 hot wire so that you can feed the other half of the panel. Do you have the metal ceiling box grounded with a green 10/32 screw? All of your grounds should be spliced correctly for rough inspection. |
#11
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... Ok, I apologize for being so slow on this, but I've finally got photos: http://tinyurl.com/65s22f Saturday I installed the conduit on the back of the house. I've got the UF trench running underneath my screened-in porch, ending next to the crawlspace door. It comes up the wall from a riser of 3/4" PVC and into a 4x4 box. The 4x4 is where I connect the UF to the THHN (or whatever it is... I can never remember), which runs in the conduit across to my main breaker box. I've got the ground and neutral wires connected in my home breaker box, but the black is wire-capped and hanging loose. I've not yet gotten a breaker for it. I've installed the ground pole near the shed and connected it to the ground bar in the shed's breaker box. I haven't bonded the neutral to the box. I don't think it is called for in this situation, but I left the neutral bonding screw in a plastic bag in the box in case the inspector says I need it. All connections are made in the shed and I think I am ready for rough-in inspection. I'm planning to clean up a little and call inspections on Tuesday. Enjoy the pics and thanks! John Very lovely! You definitely don't use the bonding screw. The one thing I see is that you cut your grounding conductors in the switch box to short. They need to be attached to the switches |
#12
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 3, 10:41*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message ... *I noticed that you didn't splice the #10 hot wire so that you can feed the other half of the panel. Correct-- the other half of the panel is dead. Do you have the metal ceiling box grounded with a green 10/32 screw? No, I was planning to do that when I installed the fixture, but it is easy enough to add. *All of your grounds should be spliced correctly for rough inspection. All of the grounds are spliced using the crimp connectors. I am surprised that the crimp-style connectors would be considered incorrect. I always thought them superior to wire nuts. I would have used standard wire nuts except on the advice of an experienced electrician. Thanks for the tips! John |
#13
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... On Aug 3, 10:41 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote: wrote in message ... I noticed that you didn't splice the #10 hot wire so that you can feed the other half of the panel. Correct-- the other half of the panel is dead. Do you have the metal ceiling box grounded with a green 10/32 screw? No, I was planning to do that when I installed the fixture, but it is easy enough to add. All of your grounds should be spliced correctly for rough inspection. All of the grounds are spliced using the crimp connectors. I am surprised that the crimp-style connectors would be considered incorrect. I always thought them superior to wire nuts. I would have used standard wire nuts except on the advice of an experienced electrician. Thanks for the tips! John The crimp style connectors are acceptable, I didn't see them in the photos. To me the wires just looked as though they were twisted around each other. The ground wires also looked a little short. Code calls for all conductors to be long enough to extend at least three inches past the edge of the box. Ground the metal box before you get your rough inspection as that is one of the things the inspector will be looking for. |
#14
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 3, 10:41*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
Thanks for sharing. *Not too bad for an amateur. *Everything looks neat. Generally you don't leave the cable jacket on in the electrical panel more than 1/4" or so. *Usually a different clamp on the ground rod is used for direct burial. *We call them an acorn style ground rod clamp. The type that you used is for water pipes. *The ground wires in the switch box are kind of short and not spliced properly. *There are green wire connectors available with a hole in the them for making a splice on the grounds and bringing one pigtail out through the hole. *Additional grounding pigtails come out just like any other on the bottom of the connector. *I noticed that you didn't splice the #10 hot wire so that you can feed the other half of the panel. Do you have the metal ceiling box grounded with a green 10/32 screw? *All of your grounds should be spliced correctly for rough inspection. Thanks for the tips. I guess I should add that not only am I an amature, but this is my first time doing this. I've had a mentor that has done this many times helping me, though. He also helped me dig the trench and run the final bit of conduit to the breaker box. On the ground wires in the switch box, they are longer than they look. They are pointed at the camera. But I find it surprising that using the crimp connectors would be considered "improper" for the ground wires. I used the crimp connectors to splice all of the grounds on the advice of a fairly experianced electrician. They strike me as being superior to wire nuts. No, I didn't splice the two phases of the panel together as the inspector said I would be fine just using one leg of the panel. I didn't use the green ground screw on the ceiling light thinking that I would wait until final, but, now that you mention it I believe that would be a mistake. Thanks, John |
#16
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 11:12*am, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-08-04, wrote: I've installed the ground pole near the shed and connected it to the ground bar in the shed's breaker box. * The ground rod needs to be at least 8' in the ground, so if that is an 8' ground rod, it should be fully buried. *If it is a 10' ground rod, then you are OK with part sticking up as you have. Cheers, Wayne Hi Wayne, It is an 8' rod, but I've got it to where the top is now flush with grade. I've dug out around it a little so I could attach the connector and have not backfilled it so the inspector could see it. So If I wanted to install a second rod, would I just jumper the connection from the same ground wire? John Grabowski: The ground wires are a little longer than what they look in the photo. They are pointing at the camera, so the look shorter. But they may not be long enough to meet code, so I will check. I will also install the ground screw this evening. Thanks for all the help, fellas! John |
#17
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Subpanel box wiring
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#18
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Subpanel box wiring
ACTUALLY, if your going to stick with the code..... the grounding
conductor should be all one piece and go from one rod to the next. s "Wayne Whitney" wrote in message ... On 2008-08-04, wrote: So If I wanted to install a second rod, would I just jumper the connection from the same ground wire? If you want to install a second rod, you can clamp the jumper to the first rod or to the grounding electrode conductor (the ground wire going from the first rod to the panel). Be sure all the clamps you use are rated for direct burial, for both the jumper and the grounding electrode conductor. BTW, if the rod is your only grounding electrode, you need to install two. [There is a provision for installing only one in the NEC, but it requires a measurement of the effectiveness of the first rod that is way more difficult to make than installing a second rod is.] Cheers, Wayne |
#19
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 11:49*am, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-08-04, wrote: So If I wanted to install a second rod, would I just jumper the connection from the same ground wire? If you want to install a second rod, you can clamp the jumper to the first rod or to the grounding electrode conductor (the ground wire going from the first rod to the panel). *Be sure all the clamps you use are rated for direct burial, for both the jumper and the grounding electrode conductor. BTW, if the rod is your only grounding electrode, you need to install two. *[There is a provision for installing only one in the NEC, but it requires a measurement of the effectiveness of the first rod that is way more difficult to make than installing a second rod is.] Cheers, Wayne Ok, so if I were to install two and the first is 8', how long would the second rod need to be to meet code? Just any combination that adds up to over ten feet? I have a ton of rocks, so driving these things into the ground is a real pain. Thanks for that tip on the wire, Steve B. John |
#20
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Subpanel box wiring
the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if
you're subject to inspection. Also, when using multiple rods, they need to be at least SIX feet apart. s wrote in message ... Ok, so if I were to install two and the first is 8', how long would the second rod need to be to meet code? Just any combination that adds up to over ten feet? I have a ton of rocks, so driving these things into the ground is a real pain. Thanks for that tip on the wire, Steve B. John |
#21
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 2:53*pm, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. *be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. *Also, when using multiple rods, they need to be at least SIX feet apart. s OUCH, that hurts! I'm not sure what the rod diameter is in there now. It was the only size rod that Home Depot carried, so I guess I am outta luck if it is 1/2" diameter. I read on a site that quotes NEC (not sure which revision) that said the minimum diameter was 1/2", but it didn't talk about two electrodes at all. John |
#22
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 2:53*pm, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. *be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. *Also, when using multiple rods, they need to be at least SIX feet apart. I just measured the rod I have in the ground and it is 1/2" diameter. I am about 99.9% sure that is the only diameter they carry at H. Depot. I guess I'll need to call the inspector about it to see what the local code calls for. John |
#23
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... On Aug 4, 2:53 pm, "Steve Barker DLT" wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. Also, when using multiple rods, they need to be at least SIX feet apart. I just measured the rod I have in the ground and it is 1/2" diameter. I am about 99.9% sure that is the only diameter they carry at H. Depot. I guess I'll need to call the inspector about it to see what the local code calls for. I just looked at the photo of your ground rod again. The rod size appears to be correct. Wait until the inspector sees it before you make any changes. If you were to add a second rod the wire needs to be continuous from the circuit breaker box through the first rod and ending at the second rod. Code calls for the second rod to be at least six feet away from the first, but sixteen feet or more is optimal. |
#24
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 3:52*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message ... On Aug 4, 2:53 pm, "Steve Barker DLT" wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. Also, when using multiple rods, they need to be at least SIX feet apart. I just measured the rod I have in thegroundand it is 1/2" diameter. I am about 99.9% sure that is the only diameter they carry at H. Depot. *I guess I'll need to call the inspector about it to see what the local code calls for. I just looked at the photo of yourgroundrod again. *The rod size appears to be correct. *Wait until the inspector sees it before you make any changes. *If you were to add a second rod the wire needs to be continuous from the circuit breaker box through the first rod and ending at the second rod. *Code calls for the second rod to be at least six feet away from the first, but sixteen feet or more is optimal. LOL, ok 16' would be in my neighbor's bathroom! Just kidding. It would be in some heavy woods, though. I'll just get the shed cleaned up for the inspection and see what they say and report back. Thanks! John |
#25
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Subpanel box wiring
I guess this is the acorn connector mentioned earlier? http://tinyurl.com/62tvmx I saw some of these at Home Depot, but didn't realize that is what I needed. I can swap that out when I do the ground on the light fixture. John |
#26
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Subpanel box wiring
NOT what the NEC says. but you the boss.
suit yourself s wrote in message ... On Mon, 4 Aug 2008 12:47:23 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT" wrote: ACTUALLY, if your going to stick with the code..... the grounding conductor should be all one piece and go from one rod to the next. Not true, it only needs to be un spliced to the first electrode From the handbook http://esteroriverheights.com/electrical/ground.jpg |
#27
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Subpanel box wiring
wrote in message ... I guess this is the acorn connector mentioned earlier? http://tinyurl.com/62tvmx I saw some of these at Home Depot, but didn't realize that is what I needed. I can swap that out when I do the ground on the light fixture. Those are the ones normally used on ground rods. They are approved for direct burial. |
#28
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Subpanel box wiring
On 2008-08-04, John Grabowski wrote:
If you were to add a second rod the wire needs to be continuous from the circuit breaker box through the first rod and ending at the second rod. That's not actually true, as gfretwell posted. The "wire" only needs to be continuous to the first electrode. Cheers, Wayne |
#29
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Subpanel box wiring
On 2008-08-04, Steve Barker DLT wrote:
the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. Actually, a ground rod can be only 1/2" in diameter, as long as it is listed (by an NRTL, such as UL). So the OP should check the rod for a listing mark. Cheers, Wayne |
#30
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 4, 6:44*pm, Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2008-08-04, Steve Barker DLT wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. *be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. Actually, a ground rod can be only 1/2" in diameter, as long as it is listed (by an NRTL, such as UL). *So the OP should check the rod for a listing mark. Cheers, Wayne I stand corrected-- Home Depot does have 5/8" and 1/2" 8' grounding rods. I checked when I picked up my acorn clamp. Didn't read about the UL listing or I would have checked when I was there. All the markings on the one I have are underground now. John |
#31
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Subpanel box wiring
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#32
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Subpanel box wiring
Not according to the nec.
s "Wayne Whitney" wrote in message ... On 2008-08-04, John Grabowski wrote: If you were to add a second rod the wire needs to be continuous from the circuit breaker box through the first rod and ending at the second rod. That's not actually true, as gfretwell posted. The "wire" only needs to be continuous to the first electrode. Cheers, Wayne |
#33
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Subpanel box wiring
Not according to the nec
s "Wayne Whitney" wrote in message ... On 2008-08-04, Steve Barker DLT wrote: the same 8' x 5/8" rod is required. be advised, 1/2" rods will not pass if you're subject to inspection. Actually, a ground rod can be only 1/2" in diameter, as long as it is listed (by an NRTL, such as UL). So the OP should check the rod for a listing mark. Cheers, Wayne |
#34
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Subpanel box wiring
look at 250.64(C) and get back with me.
s wrote in message ... Steve, you are confusing THE grounding electrode conductor which goes to "any convenient electrode" unspliced. 250.26(F) To Electrode(s). A grounding electrode conductor shall be permitted to be run to any convenient grounding electrode available in the grounding electrode system or to one or more grounding electrode(s) individually. The grounding electrode conductor shall be sized for the largest grounding electrode conductor required among all the electrodes connected to it. Subsequent "bonding jumpers" between supplemental electrodes and be made up with any listed connecting device as long as it remains accessible. 250.68 Grounding Electrode Conductor and Bonding Jumper Connection to Grounding Electrodes. (A) Accessibility. The connection of a grounding electrode conductor or bonding jumper to a grounding electrode shall be accessible. . Look at the picture again. That is from the NEC handbook |
#35
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Subpanel box wiring
On Aug 5, 12:03*am, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote: look at 250.64(C) and get back with me. s wrote in message ... Steve, you are confusing THE grounding electrode conductor which goes to "any convenient electrode" unspliced. 250.26(F) To Electrode(s). A grounding electrode conductor shall be permitted to be run to any convenient grounding electrode available in the grounding electrode system or to one or more grounding electrode(s) individually. The grounding electrode conductor shall be sized for the largest grounding electrode conductor required among all the electrodes connected to it. Subsequent "bonding jumpers" between supplemental electrodes and be made up with any listed connecting device as long as it remains accessible. 250.68 Grounding Electrode Conductor and Bonding Jumper Connection to Grounding Electrodes. (A) Accessibility. The connection of a grounding electrode conductor or bonding jumper to a grounding electrode shall be accessible. . Look at the picture again. That is from the NEC handbook- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I found an interesting article on it he http://tinyurl.com/6ax6oc If you skip to the section on splicing I think it addresses the topic at hand. I might be way out in left field, too, I don't know. This is all very new to me. John |
#36
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Subpanel box wiring
OK then. it sounds like an area for easy misinterpretation.
s wrote in message ... On Mon, 4 Aug 2008 23:03:54 -0500, "Steve Barker DLT" wrote: look at 250.64(C) and get back with me. s OK I'm back. The GEC is the conductor to the first "convenient" electrode. The rest are bonding jumpers. I already gave you the cites |
#37
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Subpanel box wiring
Well, I am pleased to report that I have passed my rough-in inspection!! Thanks to everyone that has helped... You've been a great resource. Now its on to putting up the OSB and the final inspection! John |
#38
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Subpanel box wiring
Even more good news on my inspections-- I passed the final inspection
the other day and got my CoO today! The person that answered the phone at the inspections department was curious as to why I would want a CoO for a shed, so I explained that it was in case I needed to prove that it was up to code for an insurance claim or if I sold the home. The inspector for the final complimented my subpanel and seemed quite impressed with the work. I've put up some new photos of the nearly completed project: http://tinyurl.com/6xqrxb The only major piece remaining is that I plan to build a workbench along the back wall. I left a gap in the baseboards for the bench. Thanks again for all the advice! John |
#39
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Subpanel box wiring
Wow. Kind of fancified for a shed. you gonna live out there or what?
nice job. s wrote in message ... Even more good news on my inspections-- I passed the final inspection the other day and got my CoO today! The person that answered the phone at the inspections department was curious as to why I would want a CoO for a shed, so I explained that it was in case I needed to prove that it was up to code for an insurance claim or if I sold the home. The inspector for the final complimented my subpanel and seemed quite impressed with the work. I've put up some new photos of the nearly completed project: http://tinyurl.com/6xqrxb The only major piece remaining is that I plan to build a workbench along the back wall. I left a gap in the baseboards for the bench. Thanks again for all the advice! John |
#40
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Subpanel box wiring
On Sep 5, 5:57*pm, "Steve Barker DLT"
wrote: Wow. *Kind of fancified for a shed. *you gonna live out there or what? nice job. s Hey thanks Steve! I may have to live in there if I keep working on it like this... My wife might exile me to it. Seriously, I plan to build guitars in it. I've got a workbench built and have various saws and drills and such mounted on stands now. I've also thought about putting in a futon, dorm fridge, microwave, big screen TV... Run cable from the house... John |
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