Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?

Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

Major Debacle wrote:
I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?


Lead bends often rot out after only 40 years or so of service.

Get thee one of these:
http://www.fernco.com/Donut.asp
for an easy/ permanent fix.

I would use PVC/ABS for the new bend. If height is a
problem, there are newer fittings which will keep this
to a minimum.

Jim

Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

Major Debacle wrote:

I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?
Why not use ABS and replace problem all the way to toilet? Use a rubber
coupler to join the two different materials. Cast Iron is a pain to work
with!!!! If I get the chance I always replace with ABS when doing a
remodel.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586

Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

evodawg wrote:
Major Debacle wrote:

I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?
Why not use ABS and replace problem all the way to toilet? Use a rubber
coupler to join the two different materials. Cast Iron is a pain to work
with!!!! If I get the chance I always replace with ABS when doing a
remodel.

I would like to use a no hub coupling, but the cast iron waste stack has
a hub with a 6" OD and I haven't yet found a coupling that will go from
a 6" OD hub to the OD of a 4" pipe, but that was only at a local True
Value hardware store that is heavy in cast iron plumbing fittings. I
will try the local plumbing supply house next to see what they have.

Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

Speedy Jim wrote:
Major Debacle wrote:
I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?


Lead bends often rot out after only 40 years or so of service.

Get thee one of these:
http://www.fernco.com/Donut.asp
for an easy/ permanent fix.

I would use PVC/ABS for the new bend. If height is a
problem, there are newer fittings which will keep this
to a minimum.

Jim

That donut sounds like a pretty good idea. Too bad the tolerances are so
tight resulting in hundreds of different sizes that can't be stocked
locally.

If I could find a no hub coupling that will clamp on a 6" OD hub and a
4" ID pipe I can skate home easy. But I guess the whole idea of a no hub
coupling is to use it where there are no hubs.

Plumbing repair question - cast iron
 

Speedy Jim wrote:
Don Young wrote:

"Major Debacle" wrote in message
...

Speedy Jim wrote:

Major Debacle wrote:

I have a job coming up that involves replacing a 4" lead closet bend
into a cast iron waste stack. For some reason unknown to me the lead
bend is rotting away at about 10 and 2 o'clock... maybe between 10 and
2. I couldn't see without a mirror and I didn't want to feel around up
there. The pipes are exposed in a stand up basement area, so have that
going for me.

My plan so far is to pop the toilet, hack out the old bend, install a
new 4" cast iron bend, pack with oakum and schmear in some plastic lead
substitute. The plastic looks thick enough to stand in the vertical face
of the Y.

Does this sound reasonable?

I was hoping to find a no hub clamp, but the guy at the parts place said
I would have to cut off the hub and that ain't gonna happen. I don't
think there would be anything left of the Y to clamp onto after the hub
was cut off. The hub is approximately 6" in diameter OD and the 4" bend
is about 4 3/8" OD. Is there a clamp that would connect these two? Or
does the first idea sound better?

Lead bends often rot out after only 40 years or so of service.

Get thee one of these:
http://www.fernco.com/Donut.asp
for an easy/ permanent fix.

I would use PVC/ABS for the new bend. If height is a
problem, there are newer fittings which will keep this
to a minimum.

Jim
That donut sounds like a pretty good idea. Too bad the tolerances are so
tight resulting in hundreds of different sizes that can't be stocked
locally.

If I could find a no hub coupling that will clamp on a 6" OD hub and a 4"
ID pipe I can skate home easy. But I guess the whole idea of a no hub
coupling is to use it where there are no hubs.
I believe someone makes a rubber bushing type adapter which goes into a cast
iron hub and fits PVC or ABS pipe into its inside. I seem to recall that it
had multiple ridges around its inside and outside for better sealing.

Don Young




LOL

They sure do:
http://www.fernco.com/Donut.asp


I ended up using a combination of the old fashioned way and the new
fangled and it worked great!

I got a cast iron closet bend but it was too short by 2 inches. It
reached the hub, but only went in a quarter inch or so. I then got a 6"
piece of cast iron pipe and packed it into the hub with oakum, but
instead of pouring molten lead over the oakum I packed in some lead
wool. Then I cut down the closet bend and used a no hub coupling clamp
to attach it to the stub.

The only hard part was what I thought would be the easiest, removing the
lead closet bend. In order to pack in the lead bend without collapsing
it, a 1/8" thick cast iron pipe about 3" long was inserted into the lead
bend. After cutting off the lead bend just outside the hub, I had to
drill out the poured lead and packed oakum as much as possible and then
drive a cold chisel in between the hub on the waste stack and 1/8" thick
cast iron insert and lever it to break the insert. That was tough going
at first. The insert didn't want to break. Once I got that out, the rest
was all fun and games.