Chunks of our 40 year old cinder block chimney are falling to the ground.
Tomorrow, someone is coming over to give us an estimate. Originally, we
were just
going to rebuild from the roofline to the peak. But, I noticed that
there is water type deterioration 4 or bricks lower.

The chimney is up against the outside of the house. It goes from the ground
to the peak of a two story house with an attic. Thus, it is somewhat tall.

I'm wondering if there are different grades of cinder blocks that might last
longer? Or, other materials that are currently used for rebuilding that
might be stronger or better in some other way?




Also, have smaller brick chimney we are going to rebuild. Will ask about
that one in another post.

Chunks of our 40 year old cinder block chimney are falling to the ground.
Tomorrow, someone is coming over to give us an estimate. Originally, we
were just
going to rebuild from the roofline to the peak. But, I noticed that
there is water type deterioration 4 or bricks lower.

The chimney is up against the outside of the house. It goes from the
ground
to the peak of a two story house with an attic. Thus, it is somewhat
tall.

I'm wondering if there are different grades of cinder blocks that might
last
longer? Or, other materials that are currently used for rebuilding that
might be stronger or better in some other way?


Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some sort
of breathable paint. He said latex tends to trap moisture. I didn't ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. That seems like it would trap
moisture more so? Is there a particular type of paint one should use?

The second thing I learned is that there are two sizes of blocks he can use.
One is the larger one which I believe would cover a complete section of the
chimney. Then, there are smaller ones that he would need to use two blocks.
He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100 lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. Maybe the pulley is too awkward
or time consuming. Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a simple pulley
system for this type of construction.

"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some sort
of breathable paint. He said latex tends to trap moisture. I didn't ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. That seems like it would
trap moisture more so? Is there a particular type of paint one should
use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.

He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100 lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. Difficult to tell.

Actually, I am curious about this. I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. Just brick ones.

On May 12, 4:39�pm, "cshenk" wrote:
"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. �Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some sort
of breathable paint. �He said latex tends to trap moisture. �I didn't ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. �That seems like it would
trap moisture more so? �Is there a particular type of paint one should
use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.

He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100 lbs..
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. �Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. �Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. �Difficult to tell.

Actually, I am curious about this. �I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. �Just brick ones.

have you considered a direct vent furnace and hot water tank? then
abandon and remove the chimey completely if you want

"cshenk" wrote in message
...
"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Had a few if them in the fall. This estimate is the best. All I want to do
now is check his references and see a sample or two of his work.


Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some
sort of breathable paint. He said latex tends to trap moisture. I
didn't ask him, but would that mean an oil based paint. That seems like
it would trap moisture more so? Is there a particular type of paint one
should use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.



He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100 lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it
would weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. Difficult to tell.


Yeah, he's going to have some difficulty putting up the staging. There is
only a 3 foot gap between the chimney and the neighbors fence.


Actually, I am curious about this. I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. Just brick ones.

http://mysite.verizon.net/stamkis/generalphotoalbum/

"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. ?Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some
sort
of breathable paint. ?He said latex tends to trap moisture. ?I didn't
ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. ?That seems like it would
trap moisture more so? ?Is there a particular type of paint one should
use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.

He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100
lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it
would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. ?Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. ?Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. ?Difficult to tell.

Actually, I am curious about this. ?I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. ?Just brick ones.

have you considered a direct vent furnace and hot water tank? then
abandon and remove the chimey completely if you want

Never heard of them. Would it work with a force hot water system? Would I
have to buy a new boiler?

On May 12, 7:04�pm, "Charlie S." wrote:
"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. ?Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some
sort
of breathable paint. ?He said latex tends to trap moisture. ?I didn't
ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. ?That seems like it would
trap moisture more so? ?Is there a particular type of paint one should
use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.

He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100
lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it
would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. ?Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. ?Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. ?Difficult to tell.

Actually, I am curious about this. ?I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. ?Just brick ones.

have you considered a direct vent furnace and hot water tank? then
abandon and remove the chimey completely if you want

Never heard of them. �Would it work with a force hot water system? �Would I
have to buy a new boiler?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

yes they can be used for boilers. efficeny nearly always more the 95+

depending on the cost of the chimney, and the future savings on energy
it might be worthwhile.

there are direct vent adapters for gas hot water tanks too.

how old is you heating system? i would get a free quote from at least
2 heating contractors.

new heating plant not only saves you operating expense (fuel) but adds
resale value too

On May 12, 2:43*pm, "Charlie S." wrote:
Chunks of our 40 year old cinder block chimney are falling to the ground..
Tomorrow, someone is coming over to give us an estimate. *Originally, we
were just
going to rebuild from the roofline to the peak. *But, I noticed that
there is water type deterioration 4 or bricks lower.

The chimney is up against the outside of the house. It goes from the
ground
to the peak of a two story house with an attic. *Thus, it is somewhat
tall.

I'm wondering if there are different grades of cinder blocks that might
last
longer? *Or, other materials that are currently used for rebuilding that
might be stronger or better in some other way?

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. *Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some sort
of breathable paint. *He said latex tends to trap moisture. *I didn't ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. *That seems like it would trap
moisture more so? *Is there a particular type of paint one should use?

The second thing I learned is that there are two sizes of blocks he can use.
One is the larger one which I believe would cover a complete section of the
chimney. *Then, there are smaller ones that he would need to use two blocks.
He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100 lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system to
carry these things up and down the staging. *Maybe the pulley is too awkward
or time consuming. *Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a simple pulley
system for this type of construction.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

latex is much more permeable to water than oil

"Charlie S." wrote

Was given an estimate for rebuilding the chimney today. ?Seemed fairly
reasonable and most likely will go forward.

Ok, not bad to get a second estimate if you can.

Found out a couple things.... One, that painting the chimney can trap
moisture and that if I do plan to paint the chimney I should use some
sort
of breathable paint. ?He said latex tends to trap moisture. ?I didn't
ask
him, but would that mean an oil based paint. ?That seems like it would
trap moisture more so? ?Is there a particular type of paint one should
use?

Not sure but I bet he will know.

He said the larger ones he can use on the bottom and weigh about 100
lbs.
The smaller one weigh about 50 lbs and he will use on top because it
would
weigh too much to carry on his shoulders.

What surprised me is that he is not using some sort of pulley system
to
carry these things up and down the staging. ?Maybe the pulley is too
awkward or time consuming. ?Can't figure out why they wouldn't have a
simple pulley system for this type of construction.

Could be the lay of your land makes this hard. ?Difficult to tell.

Actually, I am curious about this. ?I've never heard of a cinderblock
chimney. ?Just brick ones.

have you considered a direct vent furnace and hot water tank? then
abandon and remove the chimey completely if you want

Never heard of them. ?Would it work with a force hot water system? ?Would
I
have to buy a new boiler?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

yes they can be used for boilers. efficeny nearly always more the 95+

depending on the cost of the chimney, and the future savings on energy
it might be worthwhile.

there are direct vent adapters for gas hot water tanks too.

how old is you heating system? i would get a free quote from at least
2 heating contractors.

new heating plant not only saves you operating expense (fuel) but adds
resale value too

This may make more sense. I think the heating system is close to 40 years
old too and could use updating. Are there any safety concerns I should be
aware of?

This may make more sense. �I think the heating system is close to 40 years
old too and could use updating. �Are there any safety concerns I should be
aware of?

nope just call at least 3 contractors for estimates. ask friends for
referals too

with a 40 year old boiler you might save 1/3rd of your heating bill


exhaust will likely be a PVC pipe.

elminates standing pilot and constant venting of warm room air out
chimney.

This may make more sense. ?I think the heating system is close to 40 years
old too and could use updating. ?Are there any safety concerns I should be
aware of?

nope just call at least 3 contractors for estimates. ask friends for
referals too

with a 40 year old boiler you might save 1/3rd of your heating bill


exhaust will likely be a PVC pipe.

elminates standing pilot and constant venting of warm room air out
chimney.



Thanks for the furnace and esitmate recommendations.

I have a plumber friend who generally gives me a considerable discount.
But, I will still get other estimates and ask about different brands. I

I see the Trane brand advertised a lot in the newspaper and promoted at
Home shows. If I remember correctly, they are also rather pricey. Is this
a brand to consider or should I just to HD or and see what they have?

On May 13, 5:14*am, "Charlie S." wrote:
This may make more sense. ?I think the heating system is close to 40 years
old too and could use updating. ?Are there any safety concerns I should be
aware of?

nope just call at least 3 contractors for estimates. ask friends for
referals too

with a 40 year old boiler you might save 1/3rd of your heating bill

exhaust will likely be a PVC pipe.

elminates standing pilot and constant venting of warm room air out
chimney.

Thanks for the furnace and esitmate recommendations.

I have a plumber friend who generally gives me a considerable discount.
But, I will still get other estimates and ask about different brands. *I

I *see the Trane brand advertised a lot in the newspaper and promoted at
Home shows. *If I remember correctly, they are also rather pricey. *Is this
a brand to consider or should I just to HD or and see what they have?

You said boiler, boilers heat water furnaces heat air and HD is not
the place for either but a bid and idea. 40 yr old whatever might be
70-80% efficent for a boiler and 50-80% for a furnace if it was
maintained. You can go to 95%+ condensing units and save alot and as
said, and forget about the chimney. What you have now, how it was
maintained, and if it was ever sized right will determine what you
will save. But 40 years old, I would think the life of whatever is a
risk and paying to fix a chimney not necessary for a condensing unit.
Now if you have a Steam Boiler you are stuck fixing the chimney

On May 13, 6:14�am, "Charlie S." wrote:
This may make more sense. ?I think the heating system is close to 40 years
old too and could use updating. ?Are there any safety concerns I should be
aware of?

nope just call at least 3 contractors for estimates. ask friends for
referals too

with a 40 year old boiler you might save 1/3rd of your heating bill

exhaust will likely be a PVC pipe.

elminates standing pilot and constant venting of warm room air out
chimney.

Thanks for the furnace and esitmate recommendations.

I have a plumber friend who generally gives me a considerable discount.
But, I will still get other estimates and ask about different brands. �I

I �see the Trane brand advertised a lot in the newspaper and promoted at
Home shows. �If I remember correctly, they are also rather pricey. �Is this
a brand to consider or should I just to HD or and see what they have?

local home depot sells trane furnaces...... dont know what they sell
for hot water heating. got a very pricey estimate from home depot.
they use local contractor and add what must be a big comission

what about air conditioning? if your in a area thats hot in summer get
some FREE estimates about converting to forced air, for heat and
AC.... just for comparison.

sometimes this costs a fortune, other times its cheap. worth looking
in to.

what fuel do you use? natural gas, propane, fuel oil?

no matter what energy prices keep going up, more efficent whatever
will save you money in future

This may make more sense. ?I think the heating system is close to 40
years
old too and could use updating. ?Are there any safety concerns I should
be
aware of?

nope just call at least 3 contractors for estimates. ask friends for
referals too

with a 40 year old boiler you might save 1/3rd of your heating bill

exhaust will likely be a PVC pipe.

elminates standing pilot and constant venting of warm room air out
chimney.

Thanks for the furnace and esitmate recommendations.

I have a plumber friend who generally gives me a considerable discount.
But, I will still get other estimates and ask about different brands. I

I see the Trane brand advertised a lot in the newspaper and promoted at
Home shows. If I remember correctly, they are also rather pricey. Is this
a brand to consider or should I just to HD or and see what they have?

You said boiler, boilers heat water furnaces heat air and HD is not
the place for either but a bid and idea. 40 yr old whatever might be
70-80% efficent for a boiler and 50-80% for a furnace if it was
maintained. You can go to 95%+ condensing units and save alot and as
said, and forget about the chimney. What you have now, how it was
maintained, and if it was ever sized right will determine what you
will save. But 40 years old, I would think the life of whatever is a
risk and paying to fix a chimney not necessary for a condensing unit.
Now if you have a Steam Boiler you are stuck fixing the chimney




You are right. I meant boiler... grew up using both terms for boiler, not
sure why. We have a forced hot water system, not steam.

From reading your post, I assume they have direct vent boilers too?

You mention condensing units. Not sure what you are referring to. Do they
go together? Do they add to the effiency of the boiler?

This is an rather large old house. Converting to forced hot air with
central air conditioning would be pretty expensive.

We use natural gas.