I'd like to lay hardwood on the stairs that was previously covered in
carpet. I plan to use pre-finished flush stair nose ( e.g.
http://www.efloors.com/prodimages/HWStairnose.jpg ) in combination
with pre-finished planks for treads and same for risers. My concern
is as follows...

Ideally, for maximum support of the stair nose, I'd like to remove to
current bullnose overhang from the pine tread. However, the tread
(and riser) is supported via notches in stringers from both sides.
They are press fitted, glued and shimmed from the bottom of the
stairs. Is it safe and allowed by code to trim the bullnose overhang
flush with the stringer? Or am I better off laying the stair nose on
the rounded edge?

Thanks!

On May 5, 4:17*pm, fourrings wrote:
I'd like to lay hardwood on the stairs that was previously covered in
carpet. *I plan to use pre-finished flush stair nose ( e.g.http://www.efloors.com/prodimages/HWStairnose.jpg) in combination
with pre-finished planks for treads and same for risers. *My concern
is as follows...

Ideally, for maximum support of the stair nose, I'd like to remove to
current bullnose overhang from the pine tread. *However, the tread
(and riser) is supported via notches in stringers from both sides.
They are press fitted, glued and shimmed from the bottom of the
stairs. *Is it safe and allowed by code to trim the bullnose overhang
flush with the stringer? *Or am I better off laying the stair nose on
the rounded edge?

Thanks!

This isn't an answer to your question, but another question...

It sounds to me like you are raising the height of each step by the
thickness of the pre-finished planks. Won't this cause the rise of the
top step to be less than the rise of all the others, thus causing a
trip hazard?

As my grandfather use to say "The feet remember"

Don't you also need to raise the floor of the landing area at the top
of the stairs to keep everything even?

You're absolutely right. I'm addressing one problem at a time

One alternative is to use planks that are = 3/16" (allowed
difference, or so I read). Another is to let it be. While I may be
willing to live with the latter, my concern is over level of liability
that carries after I sell the home. Which I'm not too familiar with.

I took a few measurements and the last step is higher than all others,
so height differences are no longer a concern.

Can anyone comment on my original question of trimming the bullnose
flush with the stringer?

fourrings wrote:
I took a few measurements and the last step is higher than all others,
so height differences are no longer a concern.

I wouldn't be so sure...I'd definitely recommend to not make
modifications that weren't within code tolerances on stairs--the
consequence of a misstep are potentially serious, legal liability you
mention previously or no...

Can anyone comment on my original question of trimming the bullnose
flush with the stringer?

It's certainly done when not inset. What you don't want is an attached
bullnose w/ no support on the front edge that will potentially crack
under load w/ time.

The previous idea of a 3/16" tread overlayer isn't real good imo for the
reason it would have a propensity to split for the reason it's not very
strong unless it were to have a near perfectly level tread under
it--don't know how worn you existing treads might be.

All in all, if it were mine, I'd probably go to the trouble of
rebuilding the stairs correctly (that is, replace existing treads w/
what wanted) or leave them as is...

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On May 8, 10:33 am, fourrings wrote:
I took a few measurements and the last step is higher than all others,
so height differences are no longer a concern.

Differences in step height are always a concern.

Can anyone comment on my original question of trimming the bullnose
flush with the stringer?

Sure, cut it off. Code requires a nosing, but you're replacing it
with the new one. Make sure that the overhang is equal to the other
nosings. You may have to build out the cut tread to do so.

R

My message did not come across effectively... I measured the steps
and found out that the last step was made higher for the exact purpose
of eliminating the potential problem I would have. Because of this
finding, I no longer have to address this issue b/c it is no longer an
issue. All steps will be of same height, even with additional
thickness.

dpb -- your reasoning of not having a solid edge for stair-nose to sit
on is exactly my concern. I do believe that with enough weight on the
edge, it will crack. So there are two possibilities: [1] take the
rounded edge (1/4") off existing tread flush with stringers OR [2]
trim tread flush with stringers and riser (~ 1.5"). With method 1, my
concern is with extending total overhang. And concern with either
method is will trimming flush with stringer eventually loosen
underlaying treads?

fourrings wrote:
....
...All steps will be of same height, even with additional thickness.

How can first not change if change tread thickness w/o changing flooring?

dpb -- your reasoning of not having a solid edge for stair-nose to sit
on is exactly my concern. I do believe that with enough weight on the
edge, it will crack. So there are two possibilities: [1] take the
rounded edge (1/4") off existing tread flush with stringers OR [2]
trim tread flush with stringers and riser (~ 1.5"). With method 1, my
concern is with extending total overhang. And concern with either
method is will trimming flush with stringer eventually loosen
underlaying treads?

I don't follow the stringers here -- risers, yes, stringers, no.

You already have my recommendation/preferred mechanism which you didn't
like is to replace treads as stairwell originally designed. You need
the overhang (that is, not cut off even w/ riser) and the overhang has
to be solid enough to serve the purpose.

--

On May 9, 9:48 am, dpb wrote:

You already have my recommendation/preferred mechanism which you didn't
like is to replace treads as stairwell originally designed. You need
the overhang (that is, not cut off even w/ riser) and the overhang has
to be solid enough to serve the purpose.

I don't follow your not following the OP. Or maybe I'm not following
the OP and thus not following your not following. This stuff gets
confusing!

This is what the OP's intending to use: http://www.efloors.com/prodimages/HWStairnose.jpg
That piece has the nosing so there is no need to have an additional
(the existing nosing) overhang.

To the OP: You could use epoxy to build up the rounded, existing
nosing edge and fill in/glue on the new nosing, but that seems like
the nosing would project too far.

R

RicodJour wrote:
On May 9, 9:48 am, dpb wrote:
You already have my recommendation/preferred mechanism which you didn't
like is to replace treads as stairwell originally designed. You need
the overhang (that is, not cut off even w/ riser) and the overhang has
to be solid enough to serve the purpose.

I don't follow your not following the OP. Or maybe I'm not following
the OP and thus not following your not following. This stuff gets
confusing!

This is what the OP's intending to use: http://www.efloors.com/prodimages/HWStairnose.jpg
That piece has the nosing so there is no need to have an additional
(the existing nosing) overhang.

OK, I didn't see that -- I still not sure where his stringers come into
the picture, however. W/ that, I'd have to see what he currently has
yet to make a final judgment of what I'd actually do but I agree it
doesn't need the existing overhang also--in fact, that would be
excessive overhang beyond Code and create a different trip hazard.

I like building staircases so I'd still probably do more than most but
it would be predicated also on whether this is old or relatively new
construction so whether there's any "ambience" to maintain or not...we
did rehab's/refurb's of antebellum places in VA so I tend to think in
those terms probably excessively for a.h.r.

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