The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...RTS%20LIST.pdf

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. Changed the spark plug twice. Oil
filled to top of filler hole. Compression is 75 psi. Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

On May 2, 11:37*am, Manjo wrote:
The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: *the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. *My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...ILLUS%20PARTS%...

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. *I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. *The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. *The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: *thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. *Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. *Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. *Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. *Changed the spark plug twice. *Oil
filled to top of filler hole. *Compression is 75 psi. *Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. *I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. *As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. *Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

isnt 75 lb low

On Fri, 2 May 2008 09:37:21 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:

The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...RTS%20LIST.pdf

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. Changed the spark plug twice. Oil
filled to top of filler hole. Compression is 75 psi. Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

The orange weak spark, would make me look at the magneto for
replacement. As I recall; a magneto will weaken, so will the spark.
This is not a total failure of the magneto, but a slow death.

Check for cracks on any wires, also. Just me )

I suspect the coil on the magneto has a hairline crack, but they can
be difficult to detect.

Older cars with cracked coils would run fine, but the day it rained
and the coil was hot the cracks expanded to allow moisture in the
coil that killed the engine.

A simple thing is to check the plug terminal. Some firing problems can
results from a damaged wire. Simple snip the terminator off and
replace it.

Thanks for the update. I would like to hear the end results.

My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

On May 2, 11:37*am, Manjo wrote:
The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: *the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. *My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...ILLUS%20PARTS%...

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. *I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. *The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. *The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: *thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. *Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. *Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. *Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. *Changed the spark plug twice. *Oil
filled to top of filler hole. *Compression is 75 psi. *Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. *I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. *As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. *Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

135 might be new compression, 110 is usable, 75lb wong get you full
power ever, its worn out.

On May 2, 9:35*pm, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 2 May 2008 09:37:21 -0700 (PDT), Manjo
wrote:





The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: *the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. *My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...ILLUS%20PARTS%...

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. *I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. *The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. *The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: *thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. *Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. *Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. *Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. *Changed the spark plug twice. *Oil
filled to top of filler hole. *Compression is 75 psi. *Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. *I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. *As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. *Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

The orange weak spark, would make me look at the magneto for
replacement. As I recall; a magneto will weaken, so will the spark.
This is not a total failure of the magneto, but a slow death.

Check for cracks on any wires, also. Just me )

I suspect the coil on the magneto has a hairline crack, but they can
be difficult to detect.

Older cars with cracked coils would run fine, but the day it rained
and the coil was hot the cracks expanded *to allow moisture in the
coil *that killed the engine.

A simple thing is to check the plug terminal. Some firing problems can
results from a *damaged wire. Simple snip the terminator off and
replace it.

Thanks for the update. I would like to hear the end results.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'll try that. I think I have a couple of spark plug caps I can use.
Thanks, Manjo

On May 3, 8:59*am, wrote:
My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

Do you think the key is worn or broken?

Manjo

On May 3, 9:04*am, ransley wrote:
On May 2, 11:37*am, Manjo wrote:





The earlier thread WAS getting too long and awkward.

I had a question on the spark arrester: *the closest thing I can find
is a slotted "cap" on the muffler that can be adjusted to direct
exhaust. *My muffler is similar to the one on page 19, reference
number 300D.

http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B...ILLUS%20PARTS%...

The difference is, after removing the deflector, reference number 676,
the cylindrical muffler is one welded/soldered piece. *I can easily
blow 15-psi air through the muffler so I'm assuming it's not clogged.
Is this a safe assumption?

I also soaked the carburetor in Berrymans B-19 carb cleaner solution
for about 2 hours with no improvement. *The bike still takes several
pulls to get it started and it has to run at 1/2 choke until it's
warmed up enough to run with no choke at all. *The engine still does
not run at 100% speed even after it's warmed up.

Just a quick summation for anyone tuning in late: *thoroughly cleaned/
blew out carb with compressed air, replaced diaphragm, cleaned pick-up
tube. *Replaced carb gaskets to engine and to gas tank. *Thoroughly
cleaned out gas tank. *Cleaned and re-installed magneto at proper
setting/height from flywheel. *Changed the spark plug twice. *Oil
filled to top of filler hole. *Compression is 75 psi. *Rough leak down
test goes to 100 psi with no audible leaks.

I connected a spark gap tester between the spark plug and the cable.
I was able to start the engine and run with the tester in place set at
approximately 0.030 inches. *I get a bluish-orangey color spark across
the gap. *As the engine slows down, the spark breaks into two orange
lines with a little blue now and then. *Since the engine runs at good
speed with a more blue than orange in the spark, I'm assuming the
orange color is there because the gap tester is taking away some of
the current.

Thanks,

Manjo 1998 Briggs and Stratton "L" head engine on a Giant-Vac leaf
blower

135 might be new compression, 110 is usable, 75lb wong get you full
power ever, its worn out.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't think I'm getting full power all the time. 75 psi was with a
screw-in compression tester. I connected my compressor to the same
line and ran the pressure up to 100 psi with the piston at TDC. Since
I couldn't find the compression spec for the engine, I was hesitant to
push beyond 100 psi any higher for fear of blowing out the head
gasket. I get my leak down tester back in a few days. I'll give the
piston, rings, and valves a better test then.

I'm also going to try to slowly move the piston through the
compression and firing strokes to see if I get any unusual compression
loss due to worn rings and/or worn or scored cylinders walls.

Manjo

On May 3, 12:06 pm, Manjo wrote:
On May 3, 8:59 am, wrote:

My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

Do you think the key is worn or broken?

Manjo

Partially sheared perhaps.

On May 3, 12:28 pm, wrote:
On May 3, 12:06 pm, Manjo wrote:

On May 3, 8:59 am, wrote:

My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

Do you think the key is worn or broken?

Manjo

Partially sheared perhaps.

bump!

On May 3, 12:28 pm, wrote:
On May 3, 12:06 pm, Manjo wrote:

On May 3, 8:59 am, wrote:

My thoughts are still with the carb...but I would pull the fly and
check the key.

Do you think the key is worn or broken?

Manjo

Partially sheared perhaps.

bump up