I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

mm wrote in
:

I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks


Yes even if they come loose they won't vibrate off and allow
disconnection. Built a custom motorcycle when I was a kid. Would not use
anything else but those. They were also used by the original manufacturer
before I chopped it.

in another place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Their lawyer assisted in instructions.

mm wrote:
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

To be really sure nothing will vibrate loose, use blue locktite along with
the nylon insert nuts. Works like a charm especially in high vibration
environments.

--
PV

"mm" wrote in message
...
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

When I would build the shelving racks in my service vans, I always used
split ring lock washers and lock-tite, but due to the constant vibration,
it was a never ending battle to keep things tight. On the last two vans I
set up, I had discovered the nylon lock nuts, and nothing has ever come
loose since

On May 2, 6:58*am, "RBM" wrote:
"mm" wrote in message

...





I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. *From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. *I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

When I would build the shelving racks in my service vans, I always used
split ring lock washers and *lock-tite, but due to the constant vibration,
it was a never ending battle to keep things tight. On the last two vans I
set up, I had discovered the nylon lock nuts, and nothing has ever come
loose since

I have heard from several authoritative sources that lock washers
really don't do much more than a properly torqued nut and flat washer
alone. The Nylocks are definitely an improvement. Anymore I only use
the split washers where they were originally used to keep an original
look but if I am building something from scratch I use either Loctite
or Nylocks.

nate

Nylon lock nuts came from the aircraft industry to solve the problem of nuts
loosening due to prop engine vibrations. Always used them when I made model
airplanes. Painting the threads after the nut is tight with finger nail
polish is a good idea as a backup as well or use a product such as locktite.

"mm" wrote in message
...
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

mm wrote:

I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

The key difference between the nylock nuts and a conventional nut with a
lockwasher is that while either one may work loose from the tight state,
after that point, the nylock will stay put on the bolt, while the
conventional nut and lockwasher have no retention after the compression
of the lockwasher is lost and will continue to turn with vibration until
the nut completely falls off.

SteveB wrote:

"mm" wrote in message
...
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

My experience with Nylocks is this:

They are good for some applications. They are not good for others. They
are a one time use thing, as once they are run on and off one time, the
holding power is diminished a lot. I know they make them in all sizes up to
double jumbo, but for something I really want to know is going to stay put,
I'd prefer personally to use lock washers or even double nutting with a jam
nut. I have yet to have a jammed jam nut come loose. OTOH, like you, I
have had new Nylocks loosen up soon after installation. IIRC, there is a
nut called a castle nut that has a small crimp in it, and fits tight tight
tight on installation and is dependable not to work loose, and if it does
not loosen, it won't just vibrate off once it gets just so loose. The
crimps keeps a grip on the bolt, and cannot be taken off without a wrench.

Just my two pennies, your mileage may and probably does vary.

Steve

Castle nuts have notches in them and are used with cotter pins. You're
thinking of an interference nut which is deformed by several crimps and
produces a tight fit. These don't work any better or worse than the
nylocks, both will have reduced friction with repeated
installation-removal cycles, and both resist continued loosening if they
do come loose since they have friction. Conventional nuts and
lockwashers have no friction once they loosen past the point of
compressing the lockwasher and will continue to loosen until they fall
off. For positive locking use the castle nuts and cotter pins.

mm wrote:
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. On the nylon
insert lock nuts I add a dab of bright colored paint across the thread
and onto the nut in one small area. This will give a visual clue if
the nut should move following installation.

PS: If you are really into the belt and suspenders approach, there
are castle nuts with nylon locking inserts as well.

BobR wrote:
....
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...

I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

"mm" wrote in message
...
I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

My experience with Nylocks is this:

They are good for some applications. They are not good for others. They
are a one time use thing, as once they are run on and off one time, the
holding power is diminished a lot. I know they make them in all sizes up to
double jumbo, but for something I really want to know is going to stay put,
I'd prefer personally to use lock washers or even double nutting with a jam
nut. I have yet to have a jammed jam nut come loose. OTOH, like you, I
have had new Nylocks loosen up soon after installation. IIRC, there is a
nut called a castle nut that has a small crimp in it, and fits tight tight
tight on installation and is dependable not to work loose, and if it does
not loosen, it won't just vibrate off once it gets just so loose. The
crimps keeps a grip on the bolt, and cannot be taken off without a wrench.

Just my two pennies, your mileage may and probably does vary.

Steve

On May 2, 11:13*am, "Pete C." wrote:
mm wrote:

I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. *From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. *I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

The key difference between the nylock nuts and a conventional nut with a
lockwasher is that while either one may work loose from the tight state,
after that point, the nylock will stay put on the bolt, while the
conventional nut and lockwasher have no retention after the compression
of the lockwasher is lost and will continue to turn with vibration until
the nut completely falls off.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Another key application for nylock nuts is that they can be left
slightly loose for those instances where you want to allow for
movement such as at pivot points. You can obtain a snug fit so things
aren't flopping around, but you can still move the parts.

All steering assemblies and some brake assemblies on official All
American Soap Box Derby cars use nylock nuts for this very purpose. In
fact, by rule, the steering assemblies require *two* nylock nuts on
the same bolt. Talk about overkill!

As long as the Nylocks do not have many cycles on
them you can use them without fear of loosening.
Loctite is not needed. The only thing that will loosen
a Nylock is a wrench, not vibration.

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...

I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

BobR wrote:

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...
I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

You obviously didn't _read_ or at least comprehend what I wrote...

--

On May 2, 6:14*pm, dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. *I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. *...
I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. *If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

You obviously didn't _read_ or at least comprehend what I wrote...

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

BobR wrote:
....
I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

No more than your silly comment aka "recommendation" ...

You replace every lock washer on every piece of equipment you buy since
they obviously are unsafe?

--

On Thu, 01 May 2008 23:48:43 -0400, mm
wrote:

I bought one of those little kit trailers, what you can get for about
350 dollars, with a 4x8' bed, for a one time use, and some little uses
aftewrads. From Harbor Freight that carries 990 pounds they say. I
only need to carry less than 100.

Assembling it today, I noticed that they depend on nuts with nylon
inserts to keep the nuts from coming all the way off. They depend on
tightening them tighlly to keep them from coming loose.

Is that enough or should I put split ring lock washers under each nut.

Or would it be better, just as good, to put jamb nuts on the bolts
that are long enough.

IIRC the instructions say in one place to check that the nuts are
tight after 100 miles, which seems like a good idea, but in another
place I think it said every 100 miles!!!!!

Thanks

There is so much help here from many of you, rather than several
replies, I'm going to thank everyone here -- Thank you -- and followup
here.

I'm very encouraged about the nylon inserts. My one concern still is
that somehow they use a different kind of nylon in China that won't
work as well?


As it turns out, I bought the trailer 15 months ago and had it shipped
to my brother. The instructions didn't show lock washers for any of
the bolts I'd gotten to when I posted, but yesterday I got to the 4
square U-bolts that hold on the axle and the instructions said they
used lock washers. But none were enclosed.

I had downloaded the instructoins from Harbor Freight, and they have
changed them in the last 15 months and the new instructions show NO
lock washers. Surely this isn't to save money, so they must think
it's as good or better. Yet after reading all your posts, I'm still
going to use them under those 8 nuts, because it seems like it can't
make it worse. ??


FTR, my instructions showed a mixture of English and metric bolts, but
the only bolts enclosed were metric. The new online instructions now
correct some slight mistakes and also match the bolts etc. that they
enclosed, except that neither mention that I need a grease or a grease
gun, maybe.

There is some grease on the bearings, but after I put the hub and
bearing on the axle, am I supposed to use the grease fitting to fill
the whole chamber with wheel bearing grease? All it says it to fill
the cap at the end with grease.

"BobR" wrote in message
...
On May 2, 6:14 pm, dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...
I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

You obviously didn't _read_ or at least comprehend what I wrote...

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

WOW. From now on when I go on a plane, I'm going to look to see what kind
of system they use. I really don't think I've seen a lock washer yet. Most
of the stuff I see has plastic push fasteners. I must be dense as a rock.
I thought they would use all sorts of fasteners depending on the
application. Now to find out they use only a few. Oh, dopey me.

Steve

On May 3, 7:33*am, dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:

...

I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. *You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

No more than your silly comment aka "recommendation" ...

You replace every lock washer on every piece of equipment you buy since
they obviously are unsafe?

--

Now is that what I said or did you take it out of context knowing full
well that my comments were in reference to the aircraft? You knew but
you just couldn't resist making a stupid comment since you had nothing
constructive to add. Now take you stupid comments and put them where
they belong. As for lock washers, no I would not use them any
application where safety was an issue. I have had too many of the
work loose to rely on them.

On May 3, 11:48*am, "SteveB" toquerville,utah@zionvistas wrote:
"BobR" wrote in message

...
On May 2, 6:14 pm, dpb wrote:





BobR wrote:

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...
I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

You obviously didn't _read_ or at least comprehend what I wrote...

--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. *You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

WOW. *From now on when I go on a plane, I'm going to look to see what kind
of system they use. *I really don't think I've seen a lock washer yet. *Most
of the stuff I see has plastic push fasteners. *I must be dense as a rock.
I thought they would use all sorts of fasteners depending on the
application. *Now to find out they use only a few. *Oh, dopey me.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well maybe you should look at what is used on aircraft instead making
assumptions. While there are mil-spec lock washers that were used on
some aircraft, they are never used in an area where safety could be
compromised by them coming loose. In safety critical areas, either
castle nuts and cotter pins are used or safety wire is used. Nylon
insert nuts are now the preferred choice in all instances where castle
nuts and/or safety wired is not required. My own feeling is that if
it is important enough to need a lock washer, it is important enough
to use a high quality nylon locking nut.

If however you are talking about holding pieces of plastic together
for cosmetic panels, you can use all the plastic push fastners you
want.

On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.

On Sat, 3 May 2008 17:53:40 -0700 (PDT), BobR
wrote:


On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.

I'm the OP and I would think a Harbor Freight trailer is even more
cheaply made than most of Home Depot stuff. And on the box the
trailer came in, it says Made in China.

I hope my axle doesn't fall off!!

They also say no more than 55 MPH. Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:12:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


Another key application for nylock nuts is that they can be left
slightly loose for those instances where you want to allow for
movement such as at pivot points. You can obtain a snug fit so things
aren't flopping around, but you can still move the parts.

All steering assemblies and some brake assemblies on official All
American Soap Box Derby cars use nylock nuts for this very purpose. In
fact, by rule, the steering assemblies require *two* nylock nuts on
the same bolt. Talk about overkill!

Nothing is too safe for our kiddies. They should require 3!

mm wrote:

On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:12:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote:


Another key application for nylock nuts is that they can be left
slightly loose for those instances where you want to allow for
movement such as at pivot points. You can obtain a snug fit so things
aren't flopping around, but you can still move the parts.

All steering assemblies and some brake assemblies on official All
American Soap Box Derby cars use nylock nuts for this very purpose. In
fact, by rule, the steering assemblies require *two* nylock nuts on
the same bolt. Talk about overkill!


Nothing is too safe for our kiddies. They should require 3!



Hi,
Overkill is better than underkill, LOL!

mm wrote:

-snip-
They also say no more than 55 MPH. Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

It won't blow apart at 56. or with 993 pounds in it. But if
it does, it's your ass, not theirs.

FWIW- mine has about 2 years and 5000 miles on it. Once I did some
really bad math in my head and put 4000 pounds of cement blocks in it.
I'm glad I only had 5 miles to go as it pulled like a wet rug--- but
it didn't bend anything.

Recently I made 16 trips of 80 miles one way. Empty one way- about
1000 pounds of pavers on the return. 65 miles an hour for most of
the trip. I watched the bearings closely for the first 3 trips- but
it was up to the job.

Use *good* wheel bearing grease. Check it often. [I haven't had
any luck finding 'bearing buddy' caps that fit the Harbor Freight
trailer] I've checked the bolts a couple times. Haven't found a
loose one yet.

Jim

On May 3, 10:08*pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 3 May 2008 17:53:40 -0700 (PDT), BobR

wrote:

On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. *I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. *I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.

I'm the OP and I would think a Harbor Freight trailer is even more
cheaply made than most of Home Depot stuff. *And on the box the
trailer came in, it says Made in China.

I hope my axle doesn't fall off!!

They also say no more than 55 MPH. *Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

If it trails properly, you can probably push it a little beyond the 55
mph. It will probably do better when loaded than empty. An empty
trailer can easily start to wag back and forth or start a serious
bounce. I had that happen with an auto hauler trailer once (doing
less than 55) and it ripped the ball off the hitch. (Thank heaven for
a good safety chain.)

PS: Not everything made in China is crap. I bought a tile saw made
in China from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago and it has been a
great buy.

On May 3, 11:09*pm, mm wrote:
On Fri, 2 May 2008 11:12:29 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

wrote:

Another key application for nylock nuts is that they can be left
slightly loose for those instances where you want to allow for
movement such as at pivot points. You can obtain a snug fit so things
aren't flopping around, but you can still move the parts.

All steering assemblies and some brake assemblies on official All
American Soap Box Derby cars use nylock nuts for this very purpose. In
fact, by rule, the steering assemblies require *two* nylock nuts on
the same bolt. Talk about overkill!

Nothing is too safe for our kiddies. *They should require 3!



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Nothing is too safe for our kiddies. They should require 3!

Right, and then put an 8 YO in a plastic car going up to 30 MPH with a
3 x 3 rubber pad that drags on the road as a brake.

Trust me, 2, 3, or even 6 nylon nuts on the steering assembly kingpin
will not make the car any safer since that part of the car has never,
ever been the cause of an accident.

On May 3, 8:53*pm, BobR wrote:
On May 3, 11:48*am, "SteveB" toquerville,utah@zionvistas wrote:





"BobR" wrote in message

...
On May 2, 6:14 pm, dpb wrote:

BobR wrote:

dpb wrote:
BobR wrote:
...
Let me put it this way...I am building an airplane and using the nylon
insert nuts for most applications with a few critical exceptions where
only a castle nut and cotter pin is acceptable. I don't use and
wouldn't even consider using lock washers on anything. ...
I don't know airframe rules, but if you mean "anything" within the
ordinary English meaning, that's simply silly...

--

When building a plane, if the screw or bolt is important enough to
have any lock washer it is important to make sure you use one that
won't come loose. If you consider that silly, do your wife and all of
us on the ground a favor and don't build yourself an airplane.

You obviously didn't _read_ or at least comprehend what I wrote...

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I read it, understood it completely and really considered you rather
silly for having written it. *You had nothing useful to add so you
wasted everyones time.

WOW. *From now on when I go on a plane, I'm going to look to see what kind
of system they use. *I really don't think I've seen a lock washer yet. *Most
of the stuff I see has plastic push fasteners. *I must be dense as a rock.
I thought they would use all sorts of fasteners depending on the
application. *Now to find out they use only a few. *Oh, dopey me.

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Well maybe you should look at what is used on aircraft instead making
assumptions. *While there are mil-spec lock washers that were used on
some aircraft, they are never used in an area where safety could be
compromised by them coming loose. *In safety critical areas, either
castle nuts and cotter pins are used or safety wire is used. *Nylon
insert nuts are now the preferred choice in all instances where castle
nuts and/or safety wired is not required. *My own feeling is that if
it is important enough to need a lock washer, it is important enough
to use a high quality nylon locking nut.

If however you are talking about holding pieces of plastic together
for cosmetic panels, you can use all the plastic push fastners you
want.

On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. *I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. *I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.- Hide quoted text -

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We use nylon insert nuts torqued to up to 168 inch pounds and loosen
and tighten them on fairly regular basis. It takes many, many cycles
before we can't tighten them anymore. On the other hand, we've had
some that can't be torqued even once, but that's very rare.

On May 3, 11:08*pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 3 May 2008 17:53:40 -0700 (PDT), BobR

wrote:

On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. *I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. *I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.

I'm the OP and I would think a Harbor Freight trailer is even more
cheaply made than most of Home Depot stuff. *And on the box the
trailer came in, it says Made in China.

I hope my axle doesn't fall off!!

They also say no more than 55 MPH. *Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

I used to use one of those "little red trailers" - the foldable style
of the type sold at HF, although mine came from K-Mart. Many of the
nuts on the trailer were nylocks, which made it pain to assemble, but
it held up for a long time.

I'd load it with 500 - 600 pounds stacked 6 feet high and towed it for
hours at (at least) 65 MPH on a regular basis. Never had an issue.

Kept the tires properly inflated and repacked the wheel bearings once
a year, typically before the spring race season.

I eventually got an enclosed trailer and sold the open one, with
homemade side walls, for $25 more than I bought it for, after 4 years
and thousands of miles.

On Sun, 4 May 2008 17:34:10 -0700 (PDT), BobR
wrote:

On May 3, 10:08*pm, mm wrote:
On Sat, 3 May 2008 17:53:40 -0700 (PDT), BobR

wrote:

On another post you commented on the "single" use of the nylon insert
nuts and this may be correct if you are using the common cheap Home-
Depot made in China hardware. *I have found that aircraft grade nylon
insert nuts will still provide a firm tight hold after two or three
cycles. *I wouldn't recommend them for more than that though.

I'm the OP and I would think a Harbor Freight trailer is even more
cheaply made than most of Home Depot stuff. *And on the box the
trailer came in, it says Made in China.

I hope my axle doesn't fall off!!

They also say no more than 55 MPH. *Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

If it trails properly, you can probably push it a little beyond the 55
mph. It will probably do better when loaded than empty. An empty
trailer can easily start to wag back and forth or start a serious
bounce. I had that happen with an auto hauler trailer once (doing

Very important. Thanks a lot.

less than 55) and it ripped the ball off the hitch. (Thank heaven for
a good safety chain.)

PS: Not everything made in China is crap. I bought a tile saw made
in China from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago and it has been a
great buy.

I'll buy that. I sort of whined about how cheap it is to forestall
others telling me how cheap it is.

On Sun, 04 May 2008 07:18:00 -0400, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

mm wrote:

-snip-
They also say no more than 55 MPH. Can I take that to mean no more
than 60?

It won't blow apart at 56. or with 993 pounds in it. But if
it does, it's your ass, not theirs.

FWIW- mine has about 2 years and 5000 miles on it. Once I did some
really bad math in my head and put 4000 pounds of cement blocks in it.

LOL.

I'm glad I only had 5 miles to go as it pulled like a wet rug--- but
it didn't bend anything.

Recently I made 16 trips of 80 miles one way. Empty one way- about
1000 pounds of pavers on the return. 65 miles an hour for most of
the trip. I watched the bearings closely for the first 3 trips- but
it was up to the job.

Use *good* wheel bearing grease. Check it often. [I haven't had
any luck finding 'bearing buddy' caps that fit the Harbor Freight
trailer] I've checked the bolts a couple times. Haven't found a
loose one yet.

It didn't actually say to check after 200 miles like I think I said.
It was after 20 miles. Somewhere it said every 20 miles -lol- but I
haven't found that again.

Jim