My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). But
I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website
and that stuff is glued down.

Temperature problems with a glued roof? Why use mechanical fasteners?

Mike

On Apr 22, 5:27*pm, wrote:
My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). *But
I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website
and that stuff is glued down.

Temperature problems with a glued roof? *Why use mechanical fasteners?

Mike

Either Mechanical fasteners or glue-down is o.k. if done right.
Careful research of uplift requirements and general climate limits are
needed.
T

On Apr 22, 4:27 pm, wrote:
My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). But
I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website
and that stuff is glued down.

Temperature problems with a glued roof? Why use mechanical fasteners?

Mike

How is your roof mechanically fastened?? Rubber roofs get glued down,
not stretched and fastened. More information and maybe a photo if you
could.

JK

Every so many feet there is a nub thing that goes through to the
underlayment.

This one is definitely not glued down.

On Apr 22, 8:18*pm, Big_Jake wrote:
How is your roof mechanically fastened?? *Rubber roofs get glued down,
not stretched and fastened. *More information and maybe a photo if you
could.

On Apr 23, 3:41 pm, wrote:
Every so many feet there is a nub thing that goes through to the
underlayment.

This one is definitely not glued down.

On Apr 22, 8:18 pm, Big_Jake wrote:

How is your roof mechanically fastened?? Rubber roofs get glued down,
not stretched and fastened. More information and maybe a photo if you
could.

You have a real oddball there, Mike. Typically flat roofs are done in
bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. Rubber roofs
typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all
sorts of weather. Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can
be, depending on the size of the roof.

JK

I assumed it was to allow for expansion/contraction due to temperature
changes, which is why I was concerned about glueing down a new roof.

I suppose I could do a test: mark a few points and measure between
them at different temps.

Now another question...Can/should I use exterior plywood for the
underlayment instead of the [current] Iso-Board?

On Apr 23, 6:45*pm, Big_Jake wrote:
You have a real oddball there, Mike. *Typically flat roofs are done in
bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. *Rubber roofs
typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all
sorts of weather. *Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can
be, depending on the size of the roof.

JK

On Apr 23, 6:07*pm, wrote:
I assumed it was to allow for expansion/contraction due to temperature
changes, which is why I was concerned about glueing down a new roof.

I suppose I could do a test: mark a few points and measure between
them at different temps.

Now another question...Can/should I use exterior plywood for the
underlayment instead of the [current] Iso-Board?

On Apr 23, 6:45*pm, Big_Jake wrote:



You have a real oddball there, Mike. *Typically flat roofs are done in
bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. *Rubber roofs
typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all
sorts of weather. *Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can
be, depending on the size of the roof.

JK- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is
in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of
up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has
no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an
uninsulated roof for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your
bill 20-30%

Well, I'm fairly certain the current roof is rubber (black, stretchy,
kinda smells on a hot day, and marks up my bare hands). And what I'm
considering is WeatherBond (EPDM), which is also rubber. I'm not sure
I have much heating loss throug the roof, as the roof joists contain
fiberglass batts.

I am considering the white EPDM, though, since that black just soaks
up the heat in summer.

On Apr 23, 7:35*pm, ransley wrote:
Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is
in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of
up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has
no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an
uninsulated roof *for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your
bill 20-30%- Hide quoted text -

On Apr 23, 7:25 pm, wrote:
Well, I'm fairly certain the current roof is rubber (black, stretchy,
kinda smells on a hot day, and marks up my bare hands). And what I'm
considering is WeatherBond (EPDM), which is also rubber. I'm not sure
I have much heating loss throug the roof, as the roof joists contain
fiberglass batts.

I am considering the white EPDM, though, since that black just soaks
up the heat in summer.

On Apr 23, 7:35 pm, ransley wrote:

Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is
in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of
up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has
no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an
uninsulated roof for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your
bill 20-30%- Hide quoted text -

A "rubber" roof that is melted in place is likely a bitumen "torch-
down" roof, which typically only has a life of 20 years or so. EPDM
isn't generally glued directly to plywood. There is a "chipboard"
that is used as underlayment for it, as plywood could have splinters
big enough to cause issues with rubber.

The "iso" board is likely very high in R-value, usually R5 to R7.5 per
inch.

JK