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#1
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My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). But
I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website and that stuff is glued down. Temperature problems with a glued roof? Why use mechanical fasteners? Mike |
#2
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On Apr 22, 5:27*pm, wrote:
My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). *But I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website and that stuff is glued down. Temperature problems with a glued roof? *Why use mechanical fasteners? Mike Either Mechanical fasteners or glue-down is o.k. if done right. Careful research of uplift requirements and general climate limits are needed. T |
#3
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On Apr 22, 4:27 pm, wrote:
My current roof has mechanical fasteners (and is stretched?). But I'll need a new roof soon and I've looked at the WeatherBond website and that stuff is glued down. Temperature problems with a glued roof? Why use mechanical fasteners? Mike How is your roof mechanically fastened?? Rubber roofs get glued down, not stretched and fastened. More information and maybe a photo if you could. JK |
#4
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Every so many feet there is a nub thing that goes through to the
underlayment. This one is definitely not glued down. On Apr 22, 8:18*pm, Big_Jake wrote: How is your roof mechanically fastened?? *Rubber roofs get glued down, not stretched and fastened. *More information and maybe a photo if you could. |
#5
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On Apr 23, 3:41 pm, wrote:
Every so many feet there is a nub thing that goes through to the underlayment. This one is definitely not glued down. On Apr 22, 8:18 pm, Big_Jake wrote: How is your roof mechanically fastened?? Rubber roofs get glued down, not stretched and fastened. More information and maybe a photo if you could. You have a real oddball there, Mike. Typically flat roofs are done in bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. Rubber roofs typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all sorts of weather. Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can be, depending on the size of the roof. JK |
#6
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I assumed it was to allow for expansion/contraction due to temperature
changes, which is why I was concerned about glueing down a new roof. I suppose I could do a test: mark a few points and measure between them at different temps. Now another question...Can/should I use exterior plywood for the underlayment instead of the [current] Iso-Board? On Apr 23, 6:45*pm, Big_Jake wrote: You have a real oddball there, Mike. *Typically flat roofs are done in bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. *Rubber roofs typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all sorts of weather. *Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can be, depending on the size of the roof. JK |
#7
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On Apr 23, 6:07*pm, wrote:
I assumed it was to allow for expansion/contraction due to temperature changes, which is why I was concerned about glueing down a new roof. I suppose I could do a test: mark a few points and measure between them at different temps. Now another question...Can/should I use exterior plywood for the underlayment instead of the [current] Iso-Board? On Apr 23, 6:45*pm, Big_Jake wrote: You have a real oddball there, Mike. *Typically flat roofs are done in bitumen (torch-down), EPDM (rubber), or tar & gravel. *Rubber roofs typically have a service life of around 40 years, glued down, in all sorts of weather. *Temperatures should not be an issue, but uplift can be, depending on the size of the roof. JK- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an uninsulated roof for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your bill 20-30% |
#8
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Well, I'm fairly certain the current roof is rubber (black, stretchy,
kinda smells on a hot day, and marks up my bare hands). And what I'm considering is WeatherBond (EPDM), which is also rubber. I'm not sure I have much heating loss throug the roof, as the roof joists contain fiberglass batts. I am considering the white EPDM, though, since that black just soaks up the heat in summer. On Apr 23, 7:35*pm, ransley wrote: Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an uninsulated roof *for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your bill 20-30%- Hide quoted text - |
#9
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On Apr 23, 7:25 pm, wrote:
Well, I'm fairly certain the current roof is rubber (black, stretchy, kinda smells on a hot day, and marks up my bare hands). And what I'm considering is WeatherBond (EPDM), which is also rubber. I'm not sure I have much heating loss throug the roof, as the roof joists contain fiberglass batts. I am considering the white EPDM, though, since that black just soaks up the heat in summer. On Apr 23, 7:35 pm, ransley wrote: Look into a rubber roof it is melted in place, or if your flat roof is in a high heating area like Zone 6 or less , consider FOAM roofing of up to 7 inches, I am considering it. Many flat roof construction has no insulation in my area, heat loss is maybe 40% up and out an uninsulated roof for me thats $6000+ a year. Think about cutting your bill 20-30%- Hide quoted text - A "rubber" roof that is melted in place is likely a bitumen "torch- down" roof, which typically only has a life of 20 years or so. EPDM isn't generally glued directly to plywood. There is a "chipboard" that is used as underlayment for it, as plywood could have splinters big enough to cause issues with rubber. The "iso" board is likely very high in R-value, usually R5 to R7.5 per inch. JK |
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