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#1
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2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically:
? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren |
#2
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Oren wrote:
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Any base. Bicarbonate of soda is cheap and easy. If the mix fizzes and doesn't stop you need more bicarb. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#3
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On Apr 20, 7:35�pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Oren wrote: 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool �(pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour �something into the puddle that would neutralize �acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Any base. �Bicarbonate of soda is cheap and easy. �If the mix fizzes and doesn't stop you need more bicarb. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it athttp://mysite.verizon.net/xico- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - add water and pump down sewer. sometimes the soultion is dilution. a chemical fizzing in your pool might damage it |
#4
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Oren wrote:
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Check out "How To Acid-Wash a Swimming Pool" http://www.ehow.com/how_2005488_acid-wash-pool.html or "Pool Tip #20: Acid Washing" http://www.alisonosinski.com/pooltips/20.htm They recommend sodium carbonate (aka soda ash). |
#5
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Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to
lower ph. "Oren" wrote in message ... 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren |
#6
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On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 15:42:27 -0700, Oren wrote:
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Household ammonia |
#7
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On Apr 20, 5:42*pm, Oren wrote:
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool *(pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour *something into the puddle that would neutralize *acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Have you ever worked with Muriatic acid, if not beware the fumes will seriously damage your lungs, Muriatic is a fuming acid and there is no way to avoid it, if you are in the pool likely the fumes will concentrate and stay in the pool, A very good respirator is a must but even that wont protect you 100%. It might be a job to pay to get done and not subject your lungs to. Muriatic also eats galvanising off pipes quickly, then they rust fast. I would not let acid sit in a pool, but neutralise it or have it drain while being diluted with alot of water. If pipes are pvc there is no issue but the drain may not be. There is wrong and right way to do the job you need to research it. Ive washed with muriatic and it made me sick for days from the fumes. |
#8
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On Apr 20, 5:42*pm, Oren wrote:
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool *(pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour *something into the puddle that would neutralize *acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren My neighbor had to fill in his pool , he said over years of cleaning with acid the drain leaked and the pool would not hold water anymore, bleach kills mold, soap might work, research before you clean it. |
#9
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On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 23:35:07 GMT, "dadiOH" wrote:
Oren wrote: 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Any base. Bicarbonate of soda is cheap and easy. If the mix fizzes and doesn't stop you need more bicarb. Thanks. I'm reading two pounds of soda ash will neutralize one gallon of muriatic acid. My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). |
#10
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On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:40:34 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: add water and pump down sewer. sometimes the soultion is dilution. If I neutralize the acid wash, can't I pump back into the yard? And not send it down the sewer. a chemical fizzing in your pool might damage it The reason I want to neutralize the mixture... as I work. |
#11
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 00:57:10 GMT, Erma1ina
wrote: Check out "How To Acid-Wash a Swimming Pool" http://www.ehow.com/how_2005488_acid-wash-pool.html or "Pool Tip #20: Acid Washing" http://www.alisonosinski.com/pooltips/20.htm They recommend sodium carbonate (aka soda ash). Thanks. the second link suggest a pre-post acid wash using TSP and water. I like that suggestion. |
#12
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:42:37 -0400, Phisherman
wrote: On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 15:42:27 -0700, Oren wrote: 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Household ammonia I haven't read about using ammonia! Got a link? |
#13
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 06:12:22 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote: On Apr 20, 5:42*pm, Oren wrote: 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool *(pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour *something into the puddle that would neutralize *acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Have you ever worked with Muriatic acid, if not beware the fumes will seriously damage your lungs, Muriatic is a fuming acid and there is no way to avoid it, if you are in the pool likely the fumes will concentrate and stay in the pool, A very good respirator is a must but even that wont protect you 100%. It might be a job to pay to get done and not subject your lungs to. Muriatic also eats galvanising off pipes quickly, then they rust fast. I would not let acid sit in a pool, but neutralise it or have it drain while being diluted with alot of water. If pipes are pvc there is no issue but the drain may not be. There is wrong and right way to do the job you need to research it. Ive washed with muriatic and it made me sick for days from the fumes. Tanks for the safety tips. This is a shallow, 10,000 gallon pool. PVC pipes and sewer lines. I'm being cautious and may hire the job out, but I now know more of what to ask a company that would do the wash. I'm leaning towards doing the job over a weekend.... |
#14
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:13:29 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote: My neighbor had to fill in his pool , he said over years of cleaning with acid the drain leaked and the pool would not hold water anymore, bleach kills mold, soap might work, research before you clean it. My pool is tens years old. As far I know it has never been acid washed. Draining and cleaning will give me a chance to inspect and repair any damage..... |
#15
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:13:29 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote: My neighbor had to fill in his pool , he said over years of cleaning with acid the drain leaked and the pool would not hold water anymore, bleach kills mold, soap might work, research before you clean it. My pool is tens years old. As far I know it has never been acid washed. Draining and cleaning will give me a chance to inspect and repair any damage..... Also be aware that draining a pool puts a whole bunch of new stresses on it. Might want to Google it before draining. -- Fight Usenet Spam!!! - http://improve-usenet.org:80/ Want a good newsgroup reader that will filter out GoogleGroups spam? Try MesNews - http://www.mesnews.net/gb/ |
#16
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 21:00:37 GMT, Calab wrote:
My pool is tens years old. As far I know it has never been acid washed. Draining and cleaning will give me a chance to inspect and repair any damage..... Directed to my reply... Also be aware that draining a pool puts a whole bunch of new stresses on it. Might want to Google it before draining. Yes. I don't have a water table problem. My pool should not float out of the ground. Good point! |
#17
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Calab wrote:
Also be aware that draining a pool puts a whole bunch of new stresses on it. Might want to Google it before draining. Especially if the ground is clay or has a high water table... Pop goes the weasel... |
#18
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:41:53 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:40:34 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: add water and pump down sewer. sometimes the soultion is dilution. If I neutralize the acid wash, can't I pump back into the yard? And not send it down the sewer. a chemical fizzing in your pool might damage it The reason I want to neutralize the mixture... as I work. I would not suggest pumping into the yard. The product of bicarbonate and muriatic acid is sodium chloride (salt) solution. Your lawn may not like that. |
#19
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:45:26 -0700, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:42:37 -0400, Phisherman wrote: On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 15:42:27 -0700, Oren wrote: 2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically: ? ?How much, for how long, etc. ? ?Dangers? Drained Pool (pending)! How or what can I use to neutralize Muriatic acid/water pool ? I plan to acid wash the in ground pool walls. While I'm busy there (walls) the acid wash will pool at the deep end of the pool. I would like to toss/pour something into the puddle that would neutralize acid; until I can pump it out. Thanks!! Oren Household ammonia I haven't read about using ammonia! Got a link? No link (chemistry class). But, if you should add too much ammonia there won't be a problem, plus it is cheap. The ammonia reacts with HCl and produces a salt. You will get a (harmless) white smoke if both liquids are close to each other. Properly dispose of any excess muriatic acid--you really don't want this stuff laying around. |
#20
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Oren wrote:
My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#21
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![]() dadiOH wrote in message ... Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. -- dadiOH Yes, I found that out the hard way. :-) Cheri |
#22
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dadiOH wrote:
Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. |
#23
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On Apr 21, 7:22*pm, Norminn wrote:
dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. *Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. |
#24
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ransley wrote:
On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. It is your option to be foolish. http://antoine.frostburg.edu/chem/se...add-acid.shtml http://www.google.com/search?q=add+a...utf-8&oe=utf-8 -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#25
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:59:05 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22*pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. *Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. Muriatic acid can splatter, emit caustic fumes, corrode metal, cause skin burns and blindness. It contains HCl, one of the strongest acids. If diluted properly (adding acid TO the water), it becomes less hazardous. Not a wise idea to have a bottle of it laying around. |
#26
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ransley wrote:
On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. It does a number on concrete - |
#27
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ransley wrote:
On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. I strongly disagree with your recommendation to ignore basic acid safe handling. Adding acid to water is always safer because the acid is safely dilluted as it is poured. Adding water to acid (especially a granular form of an acid such as sodium bisulfate but also for liquid/aqueous acid solution) results in working with a very strong solution, which isn't something you want to mess around with or risk splashing. Yes it is true that pure water added to muriatic acid (which contains water by definition) will not cause a reaction in itself, but that is beside the point made for safe handling. Treat muriatic/hydrocholoric acid (and any strong acid) with a great deal of respect. I would strongly recommend wearing acid safe gloves and a mask. One little splash of a drop can do a lot of permanent and painful damage to an eye, to say nothing of other body parts. |
#28
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On Apr 22, 1:47*pm, Jennifer wrote:
ransley wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. *Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. I strongly disagree with your recommendation to ignore basic acid safe handling. *Adding acid to water is always safer because the acid is safely dilluted as it is poured. *Adding water to acid (especially a granular form of an acid such as sodium bisulfate but also for liquid/aqueous acid solution) results in working with a very strong solution, which isn't something you want to mess around with or risk splashing. Yes it is true that pure water added to muriatic acid (which contains water by definition) will not cause a reaction in itself, but that is beside the point made for safe handling. *Treat muriatic/hydrocholoric acid (and any strong acid) with a great deal of respect. *I would strongly recommend wearing acid safe gloves and a mask. *One little splash of a drop can do a lot of permanent and painful damage to an eye, to say nothing of other body parts.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Body parts, Ive had Muriatic drip over my hands for a day with no injurie, eyes are different , get it Real/ |
#29
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On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 05:23:25 -0400, Phisherman
wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:59:05 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22*pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. *Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. Muriatic acid can splatter, emit caustic fumes, corrode metal, cause skin burns and blindness. It contains HCl, one of the strongest acids. If diluted properly (adding acid TO the water), it becomes less hazardous. Not a wise idea to have a bottle of it laying around. It becomes a bomb with Aluminum foil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pg8LU5Mo6L8 I always add acid to water. |
#30
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On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 18:05:06 -0500, Gary Dyrkacz.
wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:41:53 -0700, Oren wrote: On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:40:34 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: add water and pump down sewer. sometimes the soultion is dilution. If I neutralize the acid wash, can't I pump back into the yard? And not send it down the sewer. a chemical fizzing in your pool might damage it The reason I want to neutralize the mixture... as I work. I would not suggest pumping into the yard. The product of bicarbonate and muriatic acid is sodium chloride (salt) solution. Your lawn may not like that. Thanks. The majority of my yard is desert rock landscape, but you're right. I do have plants and trees ![]() |
#31
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![]() ransley wrote: On Apr 22, 1:47 pm, Jennifer wrote: ransley wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. I strongly disagree with your recommendation to ignore basic acid safe handling. Adding acid to water is always safer because the acid is safely dilluted as it is poured. Adding water to acid (especially a granular form of an acid such as sodium bisulfate but also for liquid/aqueous acid solution) results in working with a very strong solution, which isn't something you want to mess around with or risk splashing. Yes it is true that pure water added to muriatic acid (which contains water by definition) will not cause a reaction in itself, but that is beside the point made for safe handling. Treat muriatic/hydrocholoric acid (and any strong acid) with a great deal of respect. I would strongly recommend wearing acid safe gloves and a mask. One little splash of a drop can do a lot of permanent and painful damage to an eye, to say nothing of other body parts.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Body parts, Ive had Muriatic drip over my hands for a day with no injurie, eyes are different , get it Real/ If that is the case than you are working with fairly weak HCl solution!! What its strength in moles? The HCl I work with regularly would put dissolve skin fairly quickly. I stand by all of my comments regarding acid handling safety. For many people, swimming pools is the first time they encounter such chemicals, and there are some things that are best not learned first hand. |
#32
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![]() Jennifer wrote: ransley wrote: On Apr 22, 1:47 pm, Jennifer wrote: ransley wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22 pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. I strongly disagree with your recommendation to ignore basic acid safe handling. Adding acid to water is always safer because the acid is safely dilluted as it is poured. Adding water to acid (especially a granular form of an acid such as sodium bisulfate but also for liquid/aqueous acid solution) results in working with a very strong solution, which isn't something you want to mess around with or risk splashing. Yes it is true that pure water added to muriatic acid (which contains water by definition) will not cause a reaction in itself, but that is beside the point made for safe handling. Treat muriatic/hydrocholoric acid (and any strong acid) with a great deal of respect. I would strongly recommend wearing acid safe gloves and a mask. One little splash of a drop can do a lot of permanent and painful damage to an eye, to say nothing of other body parts.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Body parts, Ive had Muriatic drip over my hands for a day with no injurie, eyes are different , get it Real/ If that is the case than you are working with fairly weak HCl solution!! What its strength in moles? The HCl that I work with regularly would put dissolve skin fairly quickly. I stand by all of my comments regarding acid handling safety. For many people, swimming pools is the first time they encounter such chemicals, and there are some things that are best not learned first hand. Correction: The second sentence should read, What is its strength in moles? |
#33
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![]() "David B." wrote: Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to lower ph. Right, but that's added to an entire full pool of water! Different story when concentrated acid is touching something directly. |
#34
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On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 05:23:25 -0400, Phisherman
wrote: On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:59:05 -0700 (PDT), ransley wrote: On Apr 21, 7:22*pm, Norminn wrote: dadiOH wrote: Oren wrote: My acid wash will already be diluted (1 part acid to 4-6 parts water). Be sure to add the acid TO the water, not water to acid. *Wrong way = violent bubbling/splashing and is dangerous. Reminds me of highschool chemistry class. Muriatic does not react to water violently, so I would take the previous posters Bull **** here to bull ****, Muriatic FUMES, Muriatic eats metal pipe. It wont react to added water as sulfuric will, I use Muriatic, maybe even tomorrow AM to clean stone. Muriatic acid can splatter, emit caustic fumes, corrode metal, cause skin burns and blindness. It contains HCl, one of the strongest acids. If diluted properly (adding acid TO the water), it becomes less hazardous. Not a wise idea to have a bottle of it laying around. The rule of acid to water is a good one for the non chemist, and usually for chemists as well. It is a general rule of thumb that is just easy to remember and follow. If you understand the characteristics of what you are working with, then you can bend the rules, but with the proper techniques and understanding. The unwise should never add water to acid. It is clear from most of the posts, that the general rule of acid to water should be followed by just about eveyone responding to this post. All concentrated mineral acids develop heat when mixed with water. The problem is that some acids, like concentrated sulfuric acid are prone to a highly localized and large release of heat of mixing. The dissolution especially in this case becomes violent, with subsequent violant spattering of acid due to localized steam generation. Do chemist ever do the reverse with acids? Sure, but not before carefully thinking about how they will control the mixing conditions and adjusting for the consequences. |
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On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:35:50 -0400, Jennifer
wrote: "David B." wrote: Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to lower ph. Right, but that's added to an entire full pool of water! Different story when concentrated acid is touching something directly. Goes back my question originally (OP); neutralize the acid in a pool of water. While I work I don't want etching acid sitting there, at the pool bottom. I'm buying 5 lbs of soda ash, just for this puddle of water. |
#36
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Oren wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:35:50 -0400, Jennifer wrote: "David B." wrote: Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to lower ph. Right, but that's added to an entire full pool of water! Different story when concentrated acid is touching something directly. Goes back my question originally (OP); neutralize the acid in a pool of water. While I work I don't want etching acid sitting there, at the pool bottom. I'm buying 5 lbs of soda ash, just for this puddle of water. Makes sense, but you don't need to over do the soda ash either. A too basic solution will do a lot less damage to concrete and grout than a too acid solution, but both are harmful to finishes and your health if too strong. |
#37
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On Apr 23, 12:27*am, wrote:
On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:20:40 -0700, Oren wrote: On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:35:50 -0400, Jennifer wrote: "David B." wrote: Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to lower ph. Right, but that's added to an entire full pool of water! *Different story when concentrated acid is touching something directly. Goes back my question originally (OP); neutralize the acid in a pool of water. *While I work I don't want etching acid sitting there, at the pool bottom. I'm buying 5 lbs of soda ash, just *for this puddle of water. If this acid has been in the bottom of your pool all week I doubt there is really much acidity left anyway and you probably do have a "ring" in the pool.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Acid reacts with lime, Lime is in concrete-mortar, acid eats metal drains, maybe most pumps, definatly boiler linings and valves. Acid can destroy anything metal. So go Clean it with acid tomorrow, and reduce plumbings mechanical life by 90% I hope the main drain isnt galvanised, thats hard to replace, often meaning a new pool, or filling the old one with dirt as my neighbor did. |
#38
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On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 22:01:50 -0400, Jennifer
wrote: Oren wrote: On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 17:35:50 -0400, Jennifer wrote: "David B." wrote: Don't think you have to be concerned . Some pool owners use muriatic aid to lower ph. Right, but that's added to an entire full pool of water! Different story when concentrated acid is touching something directly. Goes back my question originally (OP); neutralize the acid in a pool of water. While I work I don't want etching acid sitting there, at the pool bottom. I'm buying 5 lbs of soda ash, just for this puddle of water. Makes sense, but you don't need to over do the soda ash either. A too basic solution will do a lot less damage to concrete and grout than a too acid solution, but both are harmful to finishes and your health if too strong. I'll be frugal. An earlier link suggest two pounds of soda ash would neutralize one gallon of acid. My solution will be diluted 1 acid 4-6 water, spray on the pool walls and flush with a water hose. The puddle that forms would not need much soda ash... enough to stop the "fizzing". The water hose would be also filling the puddle at the bottom of the pool... more dilution. Then I can pump it out to sewer.Thanks for the comments. |
#39
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#40
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On Apr 23, 3:36*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 01:27:20 -0400, wrote: If this acid has been in the bottom of your pool all week I doubt there is really much acidity left anyway and you probably do have a "ring" in the pool. But the job hasn't started yet. I can't wash / spray with acid in 30 mph winds ![]() Litmus paper will verify if you neutralise it. Acid may not make a difference in looks, before you experiment you should test a section. There are many other totaly safe ways to clean anything. As I said my neighbor had to fill in with dirt his $100,000 pool from acid ruining the main drain. How about your pump and boiler, etc., acid eats metal. Get a garden sprayer to apply whatever you use and do a test, and remember the Fumes will stay in the pool with you, even with a wind. You are messing with nasty stuff that has burnt my lungs and ruined the galvanised coating off of conduit that rusted a week later, but was ok for 30 years. Dont kid around with acid, it bites back hard. |
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