Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2 phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt

on 4/7/2008 10:45 AM Esther & Fester Bestertester said the following:
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2 phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt


Phillips Pressure Treated wood screws. You probably got the bits in a
box of the screws.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2
phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt
A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall bit

Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2 phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt


That is supposedly a special drywall screw bit, but I use them
for everything if I have them and I can't tell a whole lot of
difference except that they are narrower than a standard #2 along
the body of the bit.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall bit

I too saw that in the Craftsman too set.

So what? It doesn't say what it is for.

Google is not always the answer.

Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the same shape
tip.

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
. ..

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2
phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt
A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall
bit

What do we need a newsgroup for when we have Google? Every question that's
ever been asked and every fact of life is in Google. I say we kill all
newsgroups.

Steve

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the same
shape
tip.


I have a bunch of twos and they are all different shapes. There seem to be
a differing variety of shapes for different tasks. I do know that different
shapes perform better at one thing and another.

Steve

They are used for screws that have a reed prince slot in them. #2 only
refers to size, not type.

Now *that* isn't found by Googling "P2R".

Thanks!

"Glenn" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
. ..

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2
phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt
A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall
bit

What do we need a newsgroup for when we have Google? Every question
that's ever been asked and every fact of life is in Google. I say we
kill all newsgroups.

Steve
Bye, Steve. [g]

WATCH OUT FOR THAT DOORKNOB!

"Glenn" wrote in message
...

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2
phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt

I'm not sure what they are either. Back some time ago, before I retired,
we had 2 shapes of Phillips #2. one was normal and the other was real
narrow. I don't remember the number designation for the narrow one but I
liked it because it sat deeper in the screw and I thought it held better.
That's kinda what yours sounds like.

If you would have Googled better, you would have found that some Phillips
tips have serrations and are made of harder metal and metal of different
metallurgy to resist chipping, stripping and schlipping.

But you knew that, right?

You know everything.


Steve

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the same
shape
tip.


The sharp pointed ones are the pozi-bits. I think they are mostly a British
things much like the Phillips. I use mostly square drive now.They are less
likely to cam out.

"Glenn" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...


But you knew that, right?

You know everything.


Steve
You seem to have a problem but I have no idea what it is.

I'm confused. The other day you said goodbye, and now you are answering me.

I'm soooo confuuuuuuuuused.

Steve

I found a link that referred to them as "Phillips Reduced". Found about 800
hits on that phrase. Looks like a thinner version of Phillips. Not sure
where you would use them, though.

Mike O.

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2
phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the
same shape
tip.


The sharp pointed ones are the pozi-bits. I think they are mostly a
British things much like the Phillips. I use mostly square drive
now.They are less likely to cam out.




posi-drive should be marked PZ.
they are like Philips except the sides are not tapered,but perpendicular so
there's no cam-out.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

In article ,
Jim Yanik wrote:

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the
same shape
tip.


The sharp pointed ones are the pozi-bits. I think they are mostly a
British things much like the Phillips. I use mostly square drive
now.They are less likely to cam out.




posi-drive should be marked PZ.
they are like Philips except the sides are not tapered,but perpendicular so
there's no cam-out.

So how do you recognize a posi-drive screw head? I've got PZ bits in my
new assortment box but can't tell when to use them.

On Apr 7, 11:36*am, Esther & Fester Bestertester
wrote:
A Google search found this under Craftsman *tools :P2R Phillips drywall bit

So what? It doesn't say what it is for.

What part about the word "drywall" do you not understand?

Google is not always the answer.

Yes, it is.

On Apr 7, 11:36*am, Esther & Fester Bestertester
wrote:
A Google search found this under Craftsman *tools :P2R Phillips drywall bit

So what? It doesn't say what it is for.

What part about the word "drywall" do you not understand?

Google is not always the answer.

Yes, it is.

Let me rephrase that...

When & why would you use a P2R bit rather than a regular P2 bit? Are drywall
screws specifically meant to be driven with P2R bits? It seems that P2R bits
are more broadly purposed than just for drywall...

Looking for more than Google gives on P2R... (although now that I know it
stands for Reed-Prince, I do find more). But Googling "P2R" only says it's
for drywall, which I find ... an incomplete answer.

So, no, Google is not always the answer.

on 4/8/2008 1:59 PM Esther & Fester Bestertester said the following:
On Apr 7, 11:36 am, Esther & Fester Bestertester
wrote:

A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall bit

So what? It doesn't say what it is for.

What part about the word "drywall" do you not understand?


Google is not always the answer.

Yes, it is.


Let me rephrase that...

When & why would you use a P2R bit rather than a regular P2 bit? Are drywall
screws specifically meant to be driven with P2R bits? It seems that P2R bits
are more broadly purposed than just for drywall...

Looking for more than Google gives on P2R... (although now that I know it
stands for Reed-Prince, I do find more). But Googling "P2R" only says it's
for drywall, which I find ... an incomplete answer.

So, no, Google is not always the answer.



If it works in a Phillips head screw, what the hell's the difference if
it is a P2R bit or a #2 Phillips bit?.
Just hold on to it until you get screws that it will only fit.
All this crap because of a number on a bit.

--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
To email, remove the double zeroes after @

On Apr 8, 11:51*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
*Jim Yanik wrote:





"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
lobal.net...
Might be "Reed Prince" bits, which are very similar to a phillips,
except they come to a sharp point, rather than the slightly blunted
tip of a phillips.

What are they used for? I thought if it was a #2 it should be the
same shape
tip.

The sharp pointed ones are the pozi-bits. *I think they are mostly a
British things much like the Phillips. *I use mostly square drive
now.They are less likely to cam out.

posi-drive should be marked PZ.
they are like Philips except the sides are not tapered,but perpendicular so
there's no cam-out.

So how do you recognize a posi-drive screw head? I've got PZ bits in my
new assortment box but can't tell when to use them.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

So how do you recognize a posi-drive screw head?

You'll know a pozi-drive screw by the extras slots in the head for the
extra ridges on the bit. Look he

http://artofdesign.files.wordpress.c...rewdrivers.jpg

Hewlett Packard was one of the first (that I know of ) to use pozi-
drive screws on their data-center servers, printers and drives. We
all had to go buy new screwdrivers when my company started buying
their equipment.

The main company involved in replaceable screwdriver tips is Apex.

Apex is owned by Cooper industries.

Quotation from their site:
Apex offers a choice of three heat treat hardness levels in many
of our screwdriver bits to match the application. These heat
treats are specified by a letter suffix as follows:
X - Hardest heat treat in the industry
I - Intermediate hardness
R - Lowest hardness
Our experienced staff can help in selecting the best heat treat
for your particular application.
Apex bits & sockets last ten longer than most of our competition.

If you really want to know mo
http://www.cooperpowertools.com/cata...cfm?parent1=10

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for
#2 phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt

"Glenn" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Glenn" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...


But you knew that, right?

You know everything.


Steve
You seem to have a problem but I have no idea what it is.

I'm confused. The other day you said goodbye, and now you are answering
me.

I'm soooo confuuuuuuuuused.

Steve
Not too bright either, I take it. You were talking about not having
newsgroups and I said bye to you seeing as you were the one complaining.
You sounded like you were leaving. I'm not.

And yes, I do know quite a lot. As the saying goes, I've probably forgot
more than a lot of you will ever know. [g]

Full of it today, aren't we?

I did once think I was perfect. I never want to be that sick again.

Steve

"Esther & Fester Bestertester" wrote in message
obal.net...
On Apr 7, 11:36 am, Esther & Fester Bestertester
wrote:
A Google search found this under Craftsman tools :P2R Phillips drywall
bit

So what? It doesn't say what it is for.

What part about the word "drywall" do you not understand?

Google is not always the answer.

Yes, it is.

Let me rephrase that...

When & why would you use a P2R bit rather than a regular P2 bit? Are
drywall
screws specifically meant to be driven with P2R bits? It seems that P2R
bits
are more broadly purposed than just for drywall...

Looking for more than Google gives on P2R... (although now that I know it
stands for Reed-Prince, I do find more). But Googling "P2R" only says it's
for drywall, which I find ... an incomplete answer.

So, no, Google is not always the answer.

It is if you don't know dick and are trying to evade the subject.

Steve g

http://www.cooperpowertools.com/cata...cfm?parent1=10

According to this reference, the bits I've been snapping off are the
small-diameter "limited clearance" phillips bits. They are smaller diameter
apparently for no reason other than to allow access in restricted spaces.

Now I know...

Thanks, DanG!

Ain't USENET great?! (Chinese spam, 2-party bickering, and "Google Is The
Answer" 'bots, notwithstanding...)

FBt

Robert Allison posted for all of us...

Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:
Found these among my 1/4-inch driver bits. Tried to use them for #2 phillips
screws and snapped off a couple.

What are these for?

Thanks,
FBt


That is supposedly a special drywall screw bit, but I use them
for everything if I have them and I can't tell a whole lot of
difference except that they are narrower than a standard #2 along
the body of the bit.


Yup the r stands for reduced shank - the shank is only as wide as the wings
while a reguler bit is the 1/4 hex size.
--
Tekkie Don't bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, 404unimog wrote:
I think this will clear things up. The reduced shank and the smaller tip size
is there to reduce the chance of tearing the paper or reaming the paper from
around the tapered screw head. if the screw is set to deep or the paper tares
that that reduces that screws hold strength x 65% or more even after finishing
Plus remember paper tape is used to bond two sheets together for strength and
fire proofing as well

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

replying to Charlie Bress, 404unimog wrote:
I think this will clear things up. The reduced shank and the smaller tip size
is there to reduce the chance of tearing the paper or reaming the paper from
around the tapered screw head. if the screw is set to deep or the paper tares
that reduces that screws hold strength x 65% or more even after finishing Plus
remember paper tape is used to bond two sheets together for strength and fire
proofing as well

And also as stated The tip don't ream the screw hole so wide when counter
sinking into wood

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, cazanjc wrote:
PR #2 stands for Phillips reduced #2 ... professional drywall screw bit for
Better fit, less slipping and stripping, faster driving
SPECIALIZED DRYWALL SCREW BITS with slightly reduced head size for tighter fit
and NO-SLIP, NO-STRIP GRIP

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, Pssst3 wrote:
A standard cross-head bit is much larger in diameter than the recess in the
head of the fastener with which it is to be used.
A PR bit is smaller (R= reduced) diameter, intended for applications like
drywall installation where it's desirable to have the fastener sunk slightly
below the finished surface. They are normally used with a specialized holder
that holds the fastener and helps to limit the fastener's driven depth. The
reduced diameter does what the original Phillips bits did with the non-ISO
fasteners, which is to cam out. If a new design ISO-ph bit were used with
drywall, it would be possible to drive the screw completely through the
drywall.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

replying to Esther & Fester Bestertester, Malcom wrote:
Im in construction, and recently found these PR2 bits. I love them! They
fit snugly into the screw and I dont have them pop out nearly as often as
the standard P2. Ive used them in everything from draywall screws to wider
set brass toilet flange
screws.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

I'm not an "expert" but have used many, many driver bits and have been looking for P2R bits locally but unable to find any. Apparently a big box store 14 miles away has a few but driving fuel would triple the cost.
I'm doing some sheet rock installation using drywall screws. I knew regular P2 bits DO NOT WORK WELL with drywall screws as if there is much resistance to driving them, the bit will cam out, even applying a lot of force to the driver and keeping it square with the screw. I gave up on P2R's and bought a 5-pack of "Big Yellow's" with depth control collar, specifically for driving drywall screws and theoretically controlling the depth so that the paper skin is not 'ruptured', or broken thru by the outer edge of the screw head. If this occurs, you have essentially lost all holding power---drive another screw next to it.
I looked at the driver bits inside the collars as best I could see and they looked quite "pointed" for Philips driver bits so I didn't think they were P2R's, but figured I'd try them. As soon as the screw head was near the paper and then barely making contact with it, the driver would cam out of the screw head. Drywall screws seem to be made of fairly decent steel considering where they are made and I discovered they pretty much trashed the gripping power of the driver bit, even with minimal cam out. I was very disappointed. I believe if the bit inside the collar were a P2R (Reduced) bit rather than a regular P2 bit, it would work much better. The "Big Red" power tool company's comparable item looked just about identical so I figured it was a toss up.
I only had one older, rather beat up P2R bit available but I switched to it, and along with it used some of my "screw grabbing" valve grinding compound lightly on the bit. It worked fantastic and I had no problem controlling the depth of the driven screw using an inexpensive cordless drill from a large importer of made-in-China tools.
Differences between P2 and P2R driver bits as far as I can deduce a
P2 - Seems to be slightly more pointed, i.e., a narrower angle on the 4 blades, plus more pointed and perhaps longer such that it may 'bottom' in the screw head slightly early, thus reducing the blade-into-screw-head-grooves slightly?
P2R bits seem truncated, or shortened slightly at their tips (leaving a much more blunt, squared-off point) such that they don't seem to 'bottom' into the screw head. Therefore, more of the blades, which seem to be cut at a slightly wider angle, make contact with the matching grooves cut into the screw head for that purpose. My experience is that they grip drywall screws much better and are therefore much less likely to cam out (slip in the screw head which bungys up both the screw head and typically the driver bit also), particularly when driving screws into old, hardened Doug Fir studs and joists. I still prefer to touch a dab of abrasive compound to the bit about every 5 screws for insurance. A product called Screw Grab used to be available for that purpose but I can't find it anymore, so just bought a small tube of valve lapping compound which seems to work just great. Main thing is keep the driver straight in line with the screw.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/constr...-it-13386-.htm

On 10/24/2020 04:15 PM, GARY HOLMGREN wrote:
A product called Screw Grab used to be available for that purpose but I
can't find it anymore, so just bought a small tube of valve lapping
compound which seems to work just great.

http://www.screwgrab.com/screw-grab.html

Amazon and Walmart show it. I've got a couple of bottles I bought a few
years ago but I don't remember where. Ace?

Going the other way, I was skeptical but the Grabit screw extractors
work like a charm on stripped out Phillips or Torx screws. They're a lot
faster than drilling a pilot and using a conventional extractor,
particularly with smaller fasteners.

On 10/24/2020 6:15 PM, GARY HOLMGREN wrote:
I'm not an "expert" but have used many, many driver bits and have been
looking for P2R bits locally but unable to find any.Â* Apparently a big
box store 14 miles away has a few but driving fuel would triple the cost.
I'm doing some sheet rock installation using drywall screws.

So you are doing a home project with drywall, paint, trim, and probably
a bunch of other stuff. Probably costly. A 28 mile round trip is maybe
a gallon and a half of gas, about $3.

Add another few bucks and take your wife out for coffee along they way
and enjoy some time together. Then do the job the right way.

On Sat, 24 Oct 2020 16:45:14 -0600, lowbrowwoman, the endlessly driveling,
troll-feeding, senile idiot, blabbered again:

On 10/24/2020 04:15 PM, GARY HOLMGREN wrote:
A product called Screw Grab used to be available for that purpose but I
can't find it anymore, so just bought a small tube of valve lapping
compound which seems to work just great.

http://www.screwgrab.com/screw-grab.html

You really got nothing better to do in your senile life, eh, senile
blabbermouth? LOL