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#1
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suitable replacement for anchor bolts?
I need to replace the sill plate in my house so I figure out how I am
going to lift/support everything while I remove & replace. Then like a good law-abiding citizen I call the building inspector and ask about the paperwork requirements. He asks me about the job I intend to do and I explain it and he tells me I need 2 copies of the plan, a completed permit application and also mentions anchor bolts are required. I explain that as far as I can tell there are no existing bolts on the damaged sill plate. No matter, a repair to a structure requires it is brought up to code. I do some googling, talk to the guys at 84 Lumber, and submit my paperwork planning to use Simpson UFPs in place of the anchor bolts. http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp A few day later I get a call that my application is rejected because the Simpson UFP is only rated for installation in a concrete foundation not in concrete block even if the top course is grout- filled (which is what I have). I tell the inspector that the joists are only 2x8s so by the time I get right-angle drill in there I'll have no room for a drill bit. He says all I can tell you is the code requires '7" imbedment of 1/2" bolts within 12" of the end of a board and spaced no more than every 6 feet'. I ask him what have other people used in the past and he tells me he is not allowed to recommend products and I should call around to different manufacturers. Fair enough, I call Simpson, KC Metal Products, USP Connectors and Red Head; none of them could reccomend a product to me other than 1/2 bolts that can be screwed in to the depth required. Does me no good I can't drill a hole that deep and even if I could I couldn't get the bolt in. ~7 1/2"vertical clearance - 1 1/2" for the sill means the most I could go is 6" deep. I call the DCA in NJ (dept. in charge of code compliance) and talk to the head engineer. He starts telling me about the 7" imbedment of 1/2' bolts etc. I ask him for some guidance and he tells me it is incumbent on me to submit a plan that meets or exceeds the anchor bolt specs. Of course my question is "What are the specs for the anchor bolts"? He starts again with the 7" imbedment, I interupt and ask him what the pullout rating and the shear strength of those 7" bolts is. He tells me he doesn't have that information. WTF! How am I supposed to find a product that meets or exceeds the specs when he can't tell me the specs? NJ didn't write their building code, they just adopted the ICC and made a few modifications to suit a few jerk-off politicians/slumlords in Trenton so I call the ICC. I get the same speech about the code requires 7" bolts... Again, he can't give the specs for anchor bolts just that they need to be 1/2" bolts imbedded 7". I can't be the only idiot that had termite damage to a house with 2x8 floor joists but I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Please tell me there is somebody out there in cyberspace that knows of a product or method that can be used to retrofit anchor bolts in limited clearance situations and will meet code... |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
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suitable replacement for anchor bolts?
On Mar 26, 7:24 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
I need to replace the sill plate in my house so I figure out how I am going to lift/support everything while I remove & replace. Then like a good law-abiding citizen I call the building inspector and ask about the paperwork requirements. He asks me about the job I intend to do and I explain it and he tells me I need 2 copies of the plan, a completed permit application and also mentions anchor bolts are required. I explain that as far as I can tell there are no existing bolts on the damaged sill plate. No matter, a repair to a structure requires it is brought up to code. I do some googling, talk to the guys at 84 Lumber, and submit my paperwork planning to use Simpson UFPs in place of the anchor bolts.http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp A few day later I get a call that my application is rejected because the Simpson UFP is only rated for installation in a concrete foundation not in concrete block even if the top course is grout- filled (which is what I have). I tell the inspector that the joists are only 2x8s so by the time I get right-angle drill in there I'll have no room for a drill bit. He says all I can tell you is the code requires '7" imbedment of 1/2" bolts within 12" of the end of a board and spaced no more than every 6 feet'. I ask him what have other people used in the past and he tells me he is not allowed to recommend products and I should call around to different manufacturers. Fair enough, I call Simpson, KC Metal Products, USP Connectors and Red Head; none of them could reccomend a product to me other than 1/2 bolts that can be screwed in to the depth required. Does me no good I can't drill a hole that deep and even if I could I couldn't get the bolt in. ~7 1/2"vertical clearance - 1 1/2" for the sill means the most I could go is 6" deep. I call the DCA in NJ (dept. in charge of code compliance) and talk to the head engineer. He starts telling me about the 7" imbedment of 1/2' bolts etc. I ask him for some guidance and he tells me it is incumbent on me to submit a plan that meets or exceeds the anchor bolt specs. Of course my question is "What are the specs for the anchor bolts"? He starts again with the 7" imbedment, I interupt and ask him what the pullout rating and the shear strength of those 7" bolts is. He tells me he doesn't have that information. WTF! How am I supposed to find a product that meets or exceeds the specs when he can't tell me the specs? NJ didn't write their building code, they just adopted the ICC and made a few modifications to suit a few jerk-off politicians/slumlords in Trenton so I call the ICC. I get the same speech about the code requires 7" bolts... Again, he can't give the specs for anchor bolts just that they need to be 1/2" bolts imbedded 7". I can't be the only idiot that had termite damage to a house with 2x8 floor joists but I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Please tell me there is somebody out there in cyberspace that knows of a product or method that can be used to retrofit anchor bolts in limited clearance situations and will meet code... You have my sympathies. The last time I had to work with a building inspector, they were extremely helpful (Loveland, CO, about 1990 or so). The looked at the plans, photocopied some data about roof joists and said what I was doing looked OK. They did the inspections, etc. I didn't ask them for specifics about brands, etc., which they probably should not be doing. As for your specific problem--danged if'n I have a clue. |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
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suitable replacement for anchor bolts?
In article
, Limp Arbor wrote: I need to replace the sill plate in my house so I figure out how I am going to lift/support everything while I remove & replace. Then like a good law-abiding citizen I call the building inspector and ask about the paperwork requirements. He asks me about the job I intend to do and I explain it and he tells me I need 2 copies of the plan, a completed permit application and also mentions anchor bolts are required. I explain that as far as I can tell there are no existing bolts on the damaged sill plate. No matter, a repair to a structure requires it is brought up to code. I do some googling, talk to the guys at 84 Lumber, and submit my paperwork planning to use Simpson UFPs in place of the anchor bolts. http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp A few day later I get a call that my application is rejected because the Simpson UFP is only rated for installation in a concrete foundation not in concrete block even if the top course is grout- filled (which is what I have). I tell the inspector that the joists are only 2x8s so by the time I get right-angle drill in there I'll have no room for a drill bit. He says all I can tell you is the code requires '7" imbedment of 1/2" bolts within 12" of the end of a board and spaced no more than every 6 feet'. I ask him what have other people used in the past and he tells me he is not allowed to recommend products and I should call around to different manufacturers. Fair enough, I call Simpson, KC Metal Products, USP Connectors and Red Head; none of them could reccomend a product to me other than 1/2 bolts that can be screwed in to the depth required. Does me no good I can't drill a hole that deep and even if I could I couldn't get the bolt in. ~7 1/2"vertical clearance - 1 1/2" for the sill means the most I could go is 6" deep. I call the DCA in NJ (dept. in charge of code compliance) and talk to the head engineer. He starts telling me about the 7" imbedment of 1/2' bolts etc. I ask him for some guidance and he tells me it is incumbent on me to submit a plan that meets or exceeds the anchor bolt specs. Of course my question is "What are the specs for the anchor bolts"? He starts again with the 7" imbedment, I interupt and ask him what the pullout rating and the shear strength of those 7" bolts is. He tells me he doesn't have that information. WTF! How am I supposed to find a product that meets or exceeds the specs when he can't tell me the specs? NJ didn't write their building code, they just adopted the ICC and made a few modifications to suit a few jerk-off politicians/slumlords in Trenton so I call the ICC. I get the same speech about the code requires 7" bolts... Again, he can't give the specs for anchor bolts just that they need to be 1/2" bolts imbedded 7". I can't be the only idiot that had termite damage to a house with 2x8 floor joists but I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Please tell me there is somebody out there in cyberspace that knows of a product or method that can be used to retrofit anchor bolts in limited clearance situations and will meet code... I doubt it's the suggestion you seek, but a local architect might be in a position to help you. First, he may be able to design something structurally equivalent that *can* be retrofitted, and second, he can probably get it rubber stamped down at the Department of Bureaucrats. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
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suitable replacement for anchor bolts?
Limp Arbor wrote:
I need to replace the sill plate in my house so I figure out how I am going to lift/support everything while I remove & replace. Then like a good law-abiding citizen I call the building inspector and ask about Snipped for brevity I can't be the only idiot that had termite damage to a house with 2x8 floor joists but I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Please tell me there is somebody out there in cyberspace that knows of a product or method that can be used to retrofit anchor bolts in limited clearance situations and will meet code... You have run up against the new world order. Do not be afraid, there is a way out, but it will cost you a little bit in time and money. Find an engineer (ask around about this and try to find an independent engineer rather than a huge engineering firm). Tell him your problem and give him some photos and a drawing (hand drawn with dimensions is fine). He will give you a detail and a letter to submit with your permit application. He will have to come out and inspect and write another letter for you saying that he has inspected the installation and that it is OK. The city will bow to his expertise and give you your inspections and finals. BTDT many times. The city does NOT do engineering, but they will accept almost anything that an engineer says if he is willing to put his stamp on it. The engineer will most likely spec a simpson product with the same rated pullout, etc as the citys' code requirement. The reason that the building dept. cannot answer those types of questions is because they don't know the answer. They just inspect what the code tells them to look for. This is a repair, and usually you don't need to pull a permit for a repair, but since you already started that process, you may as well live with it. If it were me, I would make the repairs without the permit, but then I know what to do and can do it to code without having an engineer spec everything for me. That is what I do for a living. Good luck. -- Robert Allison Rimshot, Inc. Georgetown, TX |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
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suitable replacement for anchor bolts?
On Mar 26, 7:24 pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
I need to replace the sill plate in my house so I figure out how I am going to lift/support everything while I remove & replace. Then like a good law-abiding citizen I call the building inspector and ask about the paperwork requirements. He asks me about the job I intend to do and I explain it and he tells me I need 2 copies of the plan, a completed permit application and also mentions anchor bolts are required. I explain that as far as I can tell there are no existing bolts on the damaged sill plate. No matter, a repair to a structure requires it is brought up to code. I do some googling, talk to the guys at 84 Lumber, and submit my paperwork planning to use Simpson UFPs in place of the anchor bolts.http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp A few day later I get a call that my application is rejected because the Simpson UFP is only rated for installation in a concrete foundation not in concrete block even if the top course is grout- filled (which is what I have). I tell the inspector that the joists are only 2x8s so by the time I get right-angle drill in there I'll have no room for a drill bit. He says all I can tell you is the code requires '7" imbedment of 1/2" bolts within 12" of the end of a board and spaced no more than every 6 feet'. I ask him what have other people used in the past and he tells me he is not allowed to recommend products and I should call around to different manufacturers. Fair enough, I call Simpson, KC Metal Products, USP Connectors and Red Head; none of them could reccomend a product to me other than 1/2 bolts that can be screwed in to the depth required. Does me no good I can't drill a hole that deep and even if I could I couldn't get the bolt in. ~7 1/2"vertical clearance - 1 1/2" for the sill means the most I could go is 6" deep. I call the DCA in NJ (dept. in charge of code compliance) and talk to the head engineer. He starts telling me about the 7" imbedment of 1/2' bolts etc. I ask him for some guidance and he tells me it is incumbent on me to submit a plan that meets or exceeds the anchor bolt specs. Of course my question is "What are the specs for the anchor bolts"? He starts again with the 7" imbedment, I interupt and ask him what the pullout rating and the shear strength of those 7" bolts is. He tells me he doesn't have that information. WTF! How am I supposed to find a product that meets or exceeds the specs when he can't tell me the specs? NJ didn't write their building code, they just adopted the ICC and made a few modifications to suit a few jerk-off politicians/slumlords in Trenton so I call the ICC. I get the same speech about the code requires 7" bolts... Again, he can't give the specs for anchor bolts just that they need to be 1/2" bolts imbedded 7". I can't be the only idiot that had termite damage to a house with 2x8 floor joists but I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Please tell me there is somebody out there in cyberspace that knows of a product or method that can be used to retrofit anchor bolts in limited clearance situations and will meet code... Ain't the People's Republic of NJ great? Wonder why so much work gets done w/o a permit? The People's Republic of California isn't any better. I may be the only idiot that tried to get a permit to fix the damage. Not the only but one of the few........ this product should do the trick http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/UFP.asp cheers Bob PS Robert Allison's advice about getting an engineer is the way to go (now that you've started the process) |
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