I have plaster walls in the bathroom, with chick tiles half way down
the wall. I ripped all the tiles down (very easy). Then scraped
the glue off the hard glue with chisel. Also, some of the section
with heating gun. But for some reason, towards the bottom, they
putt a lot more glue and its harder to scrape off. Just curious if I
could just putty over it? Or will the putty peal off eventually?
The glue is hard as rock and porous.

I was told that plaster is more trouble to tear down, so we decided to
scape the glue instead of ripping down the plaster and re-drywalling
and putting and doing corners. It took me at least 5 hours to
scrape it down. But I still have a section about 6 sq ft total that
has lost of glue. I would like to put putty (plaster) over it if I
can. Or is it best to cut that section out. I was told that the
transition between plaster and drywall will end up cracking, sooner or
later. Any advise?

"lbbss" wrote in message
...
I have plaster walls in the bathroom, with chick tiles half way down
the wall. I ripped all the tiles down (very easy). Then scraped
the glue off the hard glue with chisel. Also, some of the section
with heating gun. But for some reason, towards the bottom, they
putt a lot more glue and its harder to scrape off. Just curious if I
could just putty over it? Or will the putty peal off eventually?
The glue is hard as rock and porous.

I was told that plaster is more trouble to tear down, so we decided to
scape the glue instead of ripping down the plaster and re-drywalling
and putting and doing corners. It took me at least 5 hours to
scrape it down. But I still have a section about 6 sq ft total that
has lost of glue. I would like to put putty (plaster) over it if I
can. Or is it best to cut that section out. I was told that the
transition between plaster and drywall will end up cracking, sooner or
later. Any advise?

Just skim the affected area with joint compound a couple of times,sand then
paint at will....Have done it MANY times over the past 20+ years...Good
luck....

when you say joint compound, do you mean the strong stuff like
"Durabond 90" (designed to fix cracks). Or the weaker dry wall
compound, that is mean for that finished surface? thanks.

On Mar 24, 7:19 pm, lbbss wrote:
I have plaster walls in the bathroom, with chick tiles half way down
the wall. I ripped all the tiles down (very easy).

I was told that plaster is more trouble to tear down, so we decided to
scape the glue instead of ripping down the plaster and re-drywalling
and putting and doing corners. It took me at least 5 hours to
scrape it down.
Or is it best to cut that section out. I was told that the
transition between plaster and drywall will end up cracking, sooner or
later.

Depends on how you intend to use it. If as a shower, in 5 hours you
probably could have demo'd the plaster and installed "mortarboard".

Generally, the procedure is to re-tile over the wallboard/plaster
transition, so cracking there isn't an issue.

If no shower, yeah, I think you could skim coat the old adhesive, but
you'll probably want to ensure you feather that up above the old
adhesive so there's no hard edge, but I wouldn't do it that way.

A "pro" restricted to a smaller budget would probably just apply the
new adhesive proportionately thicker where the old adhesive has been
removed to make a "more flat" wall.

The average nonprofessional, I think, is best served by creating the
"least flawed" foundation for their tile, assuming of course that you
intend to re-tile it, you didn't say.
-----

- gpsman

These tiles are not in the bath tub area. I am not retiling the
walls, just putting on primer and then paint. I just worried that
the yellow adhesive might show through the paint or could compromise
the paint durability. Do I need to scrape all of glue off, it I put
a think coat of dry wall compound? thanks.

On Mar 25, 12:21 pm, lbbss wrote:
These tiles are not in the bath tub area. I am not retiling the
walls, just putting on primer and then paint. Do I need to scrape all of glue off, it I put
a think coat of dry wall compound?

mm... not my area of expertise, but I would think a skim coat followed
by a primer/sealer like Kilz would do the trick.

That old adhesive should be drier than a popcorn fart.
-----

- gpsman

That old adhesive should be drier than a popcorn fart.
*-----

- gpsman

Ha, never heard that one before, I'll have to remember it.

My wife is constantly amazed at some of the stuff I pick up...

"Mike" wrote in message
...
That old adhesive should be drier than a popcorn fart.
-----

- gpsman

Ha, never heard that one before, I'll have to remember it.

My wife is constantly amazed at some of the stuff I pick up...

---

yeah, but they have shots for that now

On Mar 25, 1:36 pm, Mike wrote:
That old adhesive should be drier than a popcorn fart.
-----

- gpsman

Ha, never heard that one before, I'll have to remember it.

I write all my own material, except for what I steal.
-----

- gpsman

"lbbss" wrote in message
...
These tiles are not in the bath tub area. I am not retiling the
walls, just putting on primer and then paint. I just worried that
the yellow adhesive might show through the paint or could compromise
the paint durability. Do I need to scrape all of glue off, it I put
a think coat of dry wall compound? thanks.

It isn't in the "book" and it isn't the taught way of doing things so I
can't tell you to do it, but I bet if you disregard the proper advice and
skim coat the area with regular or a setting type sandable joint compound it
will work just fine. Durobond is not sandable!

10-11 years ago I did a similar project where I removed some paneling that
had been installed with construction adhesive. I have never had a problem.

Take you time and feather it out nicely. I doubt very much that well aged
glue will bleed through. Prime it with Kiltz or Bins if it does.

If you have never skim coated ask for directions. There are a couple of
tricks to make it easier.


--
Colbyt
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