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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

Jeff B wrote:
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.

....
I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. ...


How well this will work will depend mostly on how good your saw is and
how well you can manipulate it--I've done things like that, but it isn't
much fun. Of course, if you don't have a tremendous number to cut and
have time, it's "only" time...

(3) A good miter saw instead of a table saw would be far better for this
job (the work stays still instead of moving)...

(4) Make the cut approximate w/ a guide on either the table saw or the
miter saw or even a hand saw w/ a clamp guide and use a shooting board
and sharp block plane to clean up the joint. This is surprisingly quick
and easy.

--
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards


"Jeff B" wrote:
I seem to have 2 options...


Option 3:

45 degree router bit, router & router table.

Lew



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On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:36:22 -0700 (PDT), Jeff B
wrote:

(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


But do you know someone who would let you use their saw? Or,
someone who would make the cuts for you on their equipment?

Also, another possibility might be a local college. Many
have good shops and often are happy to help a member of the
community with such a small job.

Good luck with it,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

On Mar 24, 4:36*pm, Jeff B wrote:
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. *They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) * The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. *I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. *Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. *I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. *Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. * While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. *(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? *I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! *I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff


Rent/borrow a sliding miter saw.


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Default Mitering Large Width Boards


"Kenneth" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:36:22 -0700 (PDT), Jeff B
wrote:

(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


But do you know someone who would let you use their saw? Or,
someone who would make the cuts for you on their equipment?

Also, another possibility might be a local college. Many
have good shops and often are happy to help a member of the
community with such a small job.

Good luck with it,


high school, night school, or community center shop classes.
local cabinet shops.
local hardwood sellers (not big boxes)


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Default Mitering Large Width Boards


In article 7e5e8a25-0311-44c4-a164-6e4b5e73cbc9
@p73g2000hsd.googlegroups.com, says...
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff


Clamp a large speed square to flat side of the molding and cut it with a
skill saw with a fine toothed blade.


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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:36:22 -0700 (PDT), Jeff B
wrote:

Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.


If the crown is going on top of it, can you rip it at a point that the
crown will cover but still narrow enough for the miter saw to handle?
If it has a relief cut out on the back you'd have to add a spacer...
okay this plan is sounding like a PITA.


-Leuf
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

On Mar 24, 4:36 pm, Jeff B wrote:
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.


#2 works fine. Remove any "step" with a block plane.
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

Jeff B wrote in news:7e5e8a25-0311-44c4-a164-
:

Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff


have you considered tool RENTAL?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

Do any of the places that rent tools rent a decent contractors saw?

--
Mike
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
IYAAYAS
"Jeff B" wrote in message
...
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff



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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

On Mar 24, 1:36*pm, Jeff B wrote:
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. *They are installed vertically.
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) * The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. *I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. *Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. *I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. *Plus its not as accurate.

I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. * While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. *(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? *I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! *I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.

Thanks.

--Jeff


I didn't see it mentioned but...

It wasn't until I had my house almost finished that I discovered it.

Harbor Freight has _cheap_ sliding, compound miter saws. I don't know
if they do currently but mine only ran $49 IIRC. It runs quite
accurate angles on wide stock. Kicked my rear for not buying a saw
like that years prior. Amazing how simple they make things. Had I but
known, I would have paid big bucks for one way back.

Harry K
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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

"Jeff B" wrote in message
...


I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


How about option #3 - rent a table saw or miter saw.

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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

On Mar 24, 11:02*pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"Jeff B" wrote in message

...



I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. * While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. *(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


How about option #3 - rent a table saw or miter saw.


Thanks for all of the pointers.

Renting is not really an option. There is a fair amount of mitering
work to do with these wide boards. Since I have a regular day job, I
cut a piece here and there at nite during the week and more on the
weekends. Obviously I can't rent it for a week (and pay more than
outright buying) and I don't want to rush on some Sat and feel
pressured to get it done and back to the rental store. I usually end
up @$#%-ing it up under those rushed conditions.

HD and Sears both sell basic table saws for ~$100. (HD has a Ryobi on
sale for $99.) I know you "get what you pay for" so I'm not rushing
over to pick one up today without some research.

--Jeff
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On Mar 24, 6:01*pm, "tom" wrote:
In article 7e5e8a25-0311-44c4-a164-6e4b5e73cbc9
@p73g2000hsd.googlegroups.com, says...
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards that cover the gap between the top
of the wall cabinets and the ceiling. *They are installed vertically..
(Crown molding gets installed on top of that.) * The throat of my
compound miter saw is too small to make that cut vertically or laying
flat. *I have one of those cheap "table saws" ... its really just a
table with an old circular saw mounted underneath. *Unfortunately, it
doesn't tilt 45 for all of the corners I need to cut. *I cut the end
off of one long piece by hand with a new/good circular saw using a
fence clamped to board as a guide but that won't work on smaller
pieces. *Plus its not as accurate.


I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. * While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. *(And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


Has anyone used method #2 with any success?? *I want the corners to be
really tight...I don't want this to be a "caulk and putty" job! *I
think this will result in miscuts and some wasted wood but thought I
would check first.


Thanks.


--Jeff


Clamp a large speed square to flat side of the molding and cut it with a
skill saw with a fine toothed blade.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I thought about that option. That works for long pieces where there
is enough room to clamp a guide (already done that). But there are
several pieces that will be 2"-6" (around a deep pantry cab or around
the corners of an extended center cab that juts out 2" from the
others). Not enough room for clamping.

--Jeff



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"Jeff B" wrote in message
...
On Mar 24, 11:02 pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"Jeff B" wrote in message

...



I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)


How about option #3 - rent a table saw or miter saw.


Thanks for all of the pointers.

Renting is not really an option. There is a fair amount of mitering
work to do with these wide boards. Since I have a regular day job, I
cut a piece here and there at nite during the week and more on the
weekends. Obviously I can't rent it for a week (and pay more than
outright buying) and I don't want to rush on some Sat and feel
pressured to get it done and back to the rental store. I usually end
up @$#%-ing it up under those rushed conditions.

HD and Sears both sell basic table saws for ~$100. (HD has a Ryobi on
sale for $99.) I know you "get what you pay for" so I'm not rushing
over to pick one up today without some research.


I would not suggest a table saw for a mitering project. A miter saw or even
a miter box is going to serve that need far better. This becomes even more
true with the cheap table saws which do not have table enough to properly
support long stock, or decent miter fences to properly align and carry a
board through the blade. You'll be spending more of that valuable time that
you don't have a lot of, just fooling with the wrong tool for the job. I
think you're asking for a lot of trouble with this approach. Not to
mention, you'd be getting a real piece of junk - not even worth the $100 you
spent.


--

-Mike-



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Default Mitering Large Width Boards

Jeff B wrote:
On Mar 24, 11:02 pm, "Bob M." wrote:
"Jeff B" wrote in message

...



I seem to have 2 options...1) go buy a new half decent quality table
saw or 2) lay the board flat on the miter saw, cut as much as I can
with the blade tilted 45, then flip and rotate the board to cut the
rest. While I usually look for any excuse to buy new tools, a new
table saw won't get used much after this project. (And no...I don't
know anyone I can borrow a good table saw from.)

How about option #3 - rent a table saw or miter saw.


Thanks for all of the pointers.

Renting is not really an option.


Option 4: Build a homemade miter jig, custom designed for your
particular project.
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On Mar 24, 1:36*pm, Jeff B wrote:
Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards...
*I have one of those cheap "table saws"


The problem isn't just that it's cheap, it's that
a table saw requires a number of adjustments.
Your saw probably isn't perfect at 90 degrees either.
There are step by step table saw tuneup procedures that
you will have to implement before doing finish
carpentry, and that means... now.

For 45 degree check, saw a scrap (straight) board
at 45, rotate the two pieces to join at 90 degrees, and see if
it matches a (known good) square.

A complete tune checks the blade for wobble, the parallelism
of the blade to the miter slots, the squareness of the miter
fence, the squareness of the rip fence face, the parallelism
of the rip fence to the miter slots, and maybe other things
that your tabletop saw doesn't allow. Feeler gages, or
vernier caliper, or dial gages will help.

It takes me about 15 minutes to adjust my table saw to 45
degrees and get it right, so you'll want to plan a bunch of
your cuts ahead of time and do 'em on a single setup.
Because the cheapo saws vibrate and have plastic
deformation issues, you'll need to adjust, make a test cut
or two, THEN verify the angle after the parts have settled in.
The long settling-in phase is why cast iron is preferred for
saws...
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On Mar 25, 3:15 pm, whit3rd wrote:
On Mar 24, 1:36 pm, Jeff B wrote:

Part of my kitchen remodeling involves cutting and mitering really
nice stained 6" wide molding boards...
I have one of those cheap "table saws"


The problem isn't just that it's cheap, it's that
a table saw requires a number of adjustments.
Your saw probably isn't perfect at 90 degrees either.
There are step by step table saw tuneup procedures that
you will have to implement before doing finish
carpentry, and that means... now.

For 45 degree check, saw a scrap (straight) board
at 45, rotate the two pieces to join at 90 degrees, and see if
it matches a (known good) square.

A complete tune checks the blade for wobble, the parallelism
of the blade to the miter slots, the squareness of the miter
fence, the squareness of the rip fence face, the parallelism
of the rip fence to the miter slots, and maybe other things
that your tabletop saw doesn't allow. Feeler gages, or
vernier caliper, or dial gages will help.

It takes me about 15 minutes to adjust my table saw to 45
degrees and get it right, so you'll want to plan a bunch of
your cuts ahead of time and do 'em on a single setup.
Because the cheapo saws vibrate and have plastic
deformation issues, you'll need to adjust, make a test cut
or two, THEN verify the angle after the parts have settled in.
The long settling-in phase is why cast iron is preferred for
saws...


At least, blade and miter slots should be dead parallel.
From that point, set the miter gauge with a decent grade
drafting triangle and a strip of 1 x 2 jammed into the
miter slot. Process takes less than 15 seconds.
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