Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
isn't an accident.

Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
torque.

Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
drill.

Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
the armature has what look like wear marks.

Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
sinking a lot of time into to fix.

Thanks for all info.

Doc wrote:
Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills
(snip)

If you need to do one small job, and it's cheaper to buy a Harbor
Freight tool than rent one for the day, and you have a high tolerance
for pain, and you're feeling lucky, then you might make out OK.


Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall?
(snip)

It doesn't take much torque to drive drywall screws. I use a 12V DeWalt
and prefer it to the 14.4 or 18V.


Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor.
(snip)

My first guess would be the cord, second would be brushes.

An 18V cordless drill is probably overkill for installing drywall, but
it would certainly work. Several years ago, I remodeled three rooms in
my house and used a 9.6V Makita drill (6095D) to install the drywall.
I don't know what the current rating is for the motor as it's not
listed on the drill or in the manual. Anyway, it did just fine driving
1-1/4" screws, but I do admit that I own and used two batteries for
it. Each battery lasted longer than the 1 hour recharge time, so there
was no waiting for fresh battery.

I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

Generally, B&D tools tend to be 'handy homeowner' disposables. That's
not necessarily a bad thing because they are relatively inexpensive. I
would just pitch it and buy another brand new one for $30 or so if I
wanted a corded drill.

Regarding Harbor Freight electric tools, I also consider them to be
disposables. I bought a Chicago Electric reciprocating saw from them
for $20 so I would have one that I could beat to death and not worry
about punishing my nicer one.

On Mar 19, 3:49 pm, Doc wrote:
Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
isn't an accident.

Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
torque.

Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
drill.

Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
the armature has what look like wear marks.

Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
sinking a lot of time into to fix.

Thanks for all info.

If the armature has wear marks, I'll guess that the bearings for the
shaft are worn and allowed the armature to wobble into the coils.
B&D is probably no longer worth repairing, unless you like to do that
sort of thing, which I do. The bearings are likely available on-line.

According to folks I talk to, tools that are still good are Milwaukee,
Makita, and Porter-Cable.

On Mar 19, 5:49*pm, Doc wrote:
Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
isn't an accident.

Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
torque.

Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
drill.

Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
the armature has what look like wear marks.

Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
sinking a lot of time into to fix.

Thanks for all info.

For years till it got stolen all I needed was my 9.6v Makita, you want
a low gear for screws and Harbor F probably has plastic gears as Ryoby
amd B&D . HDs brand Ridgid has a lifetime warranty when you register
it, even the battery.

On Mar 19, 10:45�pm, ransley wrote:
On Mar 19, 5:49�pm, Doc wrote:





Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills that were inexpensive,
but I noticed many had no amp rating listed on the box. Even though
they were 18 and 19 v, the drill bodies seemed small, which I assume
in indicative of a small, low powered motor and the fact that the amps
aren't listed anywhere on the drill or the owners manual probably
isn't an accident.

Since I was in a hurry I picked up a corded 4.2 amp Chicago electric
drywall screwdriver - I'm guessing a Harbor Freight store brand? - by
its shape it loos to have a reduction gear assembly for increasing
torque.

Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall? Not going to be doing it daily/commercially, at the moment
have a couple of walls that need drywalling. I built a sound booth out
of 2x4's, drywall and R-13 insulation using a B&D 4.5 amp 1350 RPM
corded drill I got at a pawn shop and got a drywall attachment from
Home Depot. Seemed to have more than enough power. I've never owned a
cordless so I don't know how the specs translate compared to a corded
drill.

Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor. I took it apart to see if there was
anything obvious broken or out of place, I pulled the center armature
section apart from the rest of it. What I noticed were sections where
the armature has what look like wear marks.

Any theories on why the drill is behaving this way and what bearing
the worn spots might have? I assume this isn't a drill that's worth
sinking a lot of time into to fix.

Thanks for all info.

For years till it got stolen all I needed was my 9.6v Makita, you want
a low gear for screws and Harbor F probably has plastic gears as Ryoby
amd B&D . HDs brand Ridgid has a lifetime warranty when you register
it, even the battery.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

the larger question is how old and hard are the studs your putting the
screws in? our home was built in 1950 and its a bear driving screws in
them, its easier to pre drill a hole then install screw

On Mar 19, 10:00*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.

On Mar 19, 11:30*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"RosemontCrest" wrote in message

...
On Mar 19, 10:00 pm, wrote:

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.

Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............

I never have needed an excuse to visit my local toy store, but I don't
buy the latest wiz-bang toys for which I have no need. ;-)

"ransley" wrote

For years till it got stolen all I needed was my 9.6v Makita, you want
a low gear for screws and Harbor F probably has plastic gears as Ryoby
amd B&D . HDs brand Ridgid has a lifetime warranty when you register
it, even the battery.

I still have two of them, although a friend gave me a 18v. DeWalt last
Christmas. The DeWalt is good, but lots of times for the light stuff, it's
overkill. I still mostly use the Makitas.

I keep my drills in low speed except to drill wood. Definitely use low
speed for screws, and those bits that have the serrated edges, if you can
ever find any. If you do find some, buy a lot. They're good. Robertson
head screws work good, too.

Steve

"RosemontCrest" wrote in message
...
On Mar 19, 10:00 pm, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.

Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 18:53:06 -0500, Mike Paulsen wrote:

Doc wrote:
Issue 1

Harbor Freighr had a number of cordless drills
(snip)

If you need to do one small job, and it's cheaper to buy a Harbor
Freight tool than rent one for the day, and you have a high tolerance
for pain, and you're feeling lucky, then you might make out OK.


My experience with HF brand is that the battery dies quickly. My son's
would not even finish one room of changing out outlets before the battery
died. From what I see you can either buy a good brand (NOT B&D or Skil) or
you can buy a HF brand and buy lots of extra batteries and chargers to keep
going. Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Hilti, Hatachi, etc., from a pawn shop
will cost as much as a new HF with enough batteries to get the job done
with no downtime. I would strongly recommend a minimum of a 12v system.


Out of curiosity, how much cordless drill do you feel is enough to do
drywall?
(snip)

It doesn't take much torque to drive drywall screws. I use a 12V DeWalt
and prefer it to the 14.4 or 18V.


Issue 2

The reason I went on a quest for another drill is that the
aforementioned B&D 4.5 Amp drill has gotten to where it only wanta to
run when the drill is held at a certain rotation, typically with the
handle parallel to the floor.
(snip)

My first guess would be the cord, second would be brushes.

My guess is it is a B&D. The ones I had needed a rebuild every month or
so. The repair shop knew me by name. I don't know why my dad stuck with
that stupid drill. Circular saws similar experience. My Skil built an
entire house and then some and is still going strong, though after 18 years
of heavy use (for a home owner) the bearing is getting noisy.

On Mar 20, 12:19�pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"RosemontCrest" wrote in message

...
On Mar 19, 11:30 pm, "SteveB" wrote:





"RosemontCrest" wrote in message

...
On Mar 19, 10:00 pm, wrote:

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.

Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............

I never have needed an excuse to visit my local toy store, but I don't
buy the latest wiz-bang toys for which I have no need. ;-)

I like to stick with stuff that works, too, even when people "tell me what I
need and what I should have." �Even if it's the old Joe McGee ShadeTree
Fixit Shop variety. �But I do have a collection of things that I "THOUGHT I
needed or were "GOOD" ideas." �I'll usually wait around for a while for
other people to test it and tell me if it's any good. �TV is a hoot for
stuff you never knew you needed.

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It largely depends on how much you will use a tool in the future. I
bought a HF hammer drill that went thru a 6 inch slab and works fine,
may need it every few years.........

now no good if i had a big project going. but for a occasional hole
its cheaper and more convenient than renting one

"RosemontCrest" wrote in message
...
On Mar 19, 11:30 pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"RosemontCrest" wrote in message

...
On Mar 19, 10:00 pm, wrote:

On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

Why bother when my solution worked flawlessly and produced the same
result? ;-) All kidding aside, thanks for the suggestion.

Because it gives you an excuse to visit the tool aisle .............

I never have needed an excuse to visit my local toy store, but I don't
buy the latest wiz-bang toys for which I have no need. ;-)

I like to stick with stuff that works, too, even when people "tell me what I
need and what I should have." Even if it's the old Joe McGee ShadeTree
Fixit Shop variety. But I do have a collection of things that I "THOUGHT I
needed or were "GOOD" ideas." I'll usually wait around for a while for
other people to test it and tell me if it's any good. TV is a hoot for
stuff you never knew you needed.

Steve

On Mar 20, 2:00*am, wrote:
On Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:06:42 -0700 (PDT), RosemontCrest

wrote:
I didn't even bother with a drywall clutch attachment. I started out
trying to use the 5-position clutch on the drill, but each stud or
ceiling joist seemed to have different densities, so that didn't work
very well. I ended up setting the Phillips bit almost all the way into
the Jacobs keyless chuck and set the clutch to the drill position.
This resulted in the screws going just far enough into the drywall to
be 'below' the surface without breaking the paper.

You get a drywall cup bit. It has the phillips in a cup so it bottoms
on the drywall when the screw is set and spins free.

BTW I have 2 of those 9v Makitas and I have built all sorts of stuff
with them, shooting 3" scews and more. The biggest difference between
these and the bigger ones is how long you can work without swapping
batteries.

I really like my little Makita when Im doing a lot of work overhead.
Its light and usually by the time the batteries wear down Im worn down
too.

Wife bought me a Dewalt last Christmas and I like it but it would kill
me using it to put up drywall overhead.

Jimmie